dumbass
100 kW
johnrobholmes said:
My Bad........
Nuvinci developer kits for cheap
- Thread starter johnrobholmes
- Start date
My Bad........
StudEbiker
100 kW
Dang, I just read this thread from beginning to end. I don't really need one of these right now, but it seems like too good a bargain to pass up. Eventually I want a velo type electric and this would be perfect! Guess I'll fill out the form. :wink:
Thanks for the heads up JRH.
Thanks for the heads up JRH.
Chalo
100 TW
rkosiorek said:
Those are good strong rims. One of my pedicab driving buddies has blown the sidewalls off them by inflating fat freestyle tires up to their 85-110psi rated pressures, though.
Radial spokes are OK for wheels that don't see torques, like unpowered trailer wheels or front wheels with rim brakes. On a powered or hub-braked wheel they make for trouble down the line.
For what it's worth, a big fat hub probably reduces wind-up even more than 72 or 144 spokes on a low flange hub. Neither is exactly a good idea, but they'll both work if the alternatives are no good.
Chalo
drewjet
10 kW
drewjet said:
I found out the problem and am posting here so hopefully everyone won't waste as much time as I did. When first pluged in everytime after a few seconds for the electronics to initialize it starts turning the drive clockwise until it hits the lowest gear setting and then stops. It does this so it knows where it is. then it will move to where it needs to be, if you are using a pot for manual control, then it will move to wherever it should be based on your pot output voltage. If using the shift tables, it will move to whatever you have it set at for zero speed. It makes sense once it was explained.
So I got it all hooked up and got my first test ride. This thing is awesome. No problem shifting up or down under load. I was pulling up to about 3000 watts. Very low amp draw on the actuator. Freewheeling was better than I expected. Just all around super cool.
I thought I would be able to control it manually, but after driving around a bit I realized there is no way I would be able to keep control over it, I think I will have to start playing with the shift tables.
GGoodrum
1 MW
drewjet said:
Glad you got this working. I think you are the first one.
Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean about not being able to control it manually? I'm very happy to hear that it can shift under load, though. I'm still not clear about how the whole shift table option would work.
-- Gary
LI-ghtcycle
10 MW
I need a new sign for my bike "will work for NuVinci developer kit!" 
This thing sounds super kewl, I'm also very happy to hear it will shift under load, I am a gearing nerd, and I like to pedal along, and depending on how I am feeling on a given day, I might want a drastically different map, but you can have at least 2 ready at your fingertips, so maybe it wouldn't be too hard to get it where I want it.
I'm gonna see if I can save up and get on next month, I will have to have a trike to go with it though :lol: ... might have to see if I can build a few more Pedicabs or something! :wink:
This thing sounds super kewl, I'm also very happy to hear it will shift under load, I am a gearing nerd, and I like to pedal along, and depending on how I am feeling on a given day, I might want a drastically different map, but you can have at least 2 ready at your fingertips, so maybe it wouldn't be too hard to get it where I want it.
I'm gonna see if I can save up and get on next month, I will have to have a trike to go with it though
:lol: ... might have to see if I can build a few more Pedicabs or something! :wink:
StudEbiker
100 kW
drewjet said:
Video please!!
drewjet
10 kW
GGoodrum said:Glad you got this working. I think you are the first one.
Can you elaborate a bit on what you mean about not being able to control it manually? I'm very happy to hear that it can shift under load, though. I'm still not clear about how the whole shift table option would work.
-- Gary
Well as I said my intentions for this is to be going into my electrathon, efeiciency is my primary goal, but speed is also important. I set it up with similar gearing as what I currently have. Currently on 24 volts I top out at about 30 MPH and 40 amps, up to about 125 amps on acceleration. If I set the nuvinci at the lowest setting top speed was only about 14 MPH. Acceleration was way quicker (Seat of the pants measurement) and amps would only come up to about 75. The acceleration would taper off at around 10 MPH. what seemed to work best in my short time running it was full throttle accelerate to about 10 MPH as it got close to 10, I would then dial in higher gearing, it was almost as if the gear shifter was controlling the acceration. I just found it difficult to concentrate on driving ( My head is about 16 inches from the ground and driving in my neighborhood, dodging the cars) and pay attention to the amps and adjust the gear change pot.
If I understand the tables correctly, it measures wheel speed and you put what gear ratio you want it at what speed. Hopefully it won't be to hard to set up.
My first race of the season is this weekend and I don't have the confidence to have it 100% before than so I pulled it back off. I may try and move it to a bike for better testing. I didn't get a chance to shoot video.
StudEbiker
100 kW
I was invoiced on one of these today and sent the money. Damn! There are so many things I need worse than this right now. I don't even know what I am going to do with it. I am so addicted to e-biking it's ridiculous. Here I've been telling myself for months that when I get the Bike E finished I'm going to take a nice long break from building and here I am not even finished with the Bike E and I'm buying a CVT hub that I'll have to end up building a bike around the hub!! Oh well, I'm going to really enjoy watching everyone's builds on these!
jeff peterson
10 W
- Joined
- Dec 14, 2007
- Messages
- 65
I added the Nuvinci Developer Kit hub to my Worksman stretched mover trike. I have set up the controller and found everything to work VERY well. My posts are under http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=15456&p=464472#p464735 if anyone is interested. I have had only one set back, that is installing the CD program into my Sony Vista computer. I've had no problems installing the CD on a XP computers. Just make sure the drivers come from the CD. [ Do not let the drivers come from the internet ]
GGoodrum
1 MW
I received the 20" rim and spokes I got from JR and yesterday I finally took everything to a local shop to get the wheel built up. I have the 36T Staton sprocket/freewheel adapter and most of the v4 drive bits now, so as soon as I get the wheel back I will start putting everything together. The only thing I still need are the belt pulleys and the torque limiter/clutch, from Matt. I'm still not sure how I will do the ratio change, but based on what Drew said about it not being a problem to shift under load, I might try and play with the shift tables.
-- Gary
-- Gary
johnrobholmes
10 MW
Nuvinci sent me a twist shifter when I asked for one, heads up for folks wanting to go that route.
GGoodrum
1 MW
johnrobholmes said:
Is this the non-"assist" type of control? Have you tried using this to see how hard it is to change the ratio, especially under load? My original plan was to use twist throttle connected into the analog voltage input, to simulate this operation, but with the power assist. I think Drew tried this but had an issue for some reason. I'll have to go back and re-read his post.
StudEbiker
100 kW
They included a manual shifter with mine as well, but hopefully I won't ever need to use it. The electric shift seems like it will be great. I predict some very exciting builds in the near future.
drewjet
10 kW
Does the manual shift make 4 total revolutions? I thought that was the reason you needed the electric motor.
Gary, part of my problem to control maually, through the pot was it was too hard for me to drive the car and watch out for cars on the street, and watch the amps, and control the throttle, all while trying to maintain maximum effeincy. Plus it was a bit of a rigged setup, with the pot just being held in my left hand and turning it with my thumb.
I think on a bicycle it would be fine in manual, especially once you get accumstomed to it. However, I think the shif tables are really a cool feature, and want to try them out next.
Gary, part of my problem to control maually, through the pot was it was too hard for me to drive the car and watch out for cars on the street, and watch the amps, and control the throttle, all while trying to maintain maximum effeincy. Plus it was a bit of a rigged setup, with the pot just being held in my left hand and turning it with my thumb.
I think on a bicycle it would be fine in manual, especially once you get accumstomed to it. However, I think the shif tables are really a cool feature, and want to try them out next.
GGoodrum
1 MW
drewjet said:
Thanks, Drew. I went back and re-read your posts about this. I guess the best piece of news I got from your initial tests was that there didn't seem to be a problem shifting under load. The whole reason I was looking to going the manual/pot route was that I worried that the shift tables wouldn't work well under load. Now I'm going to re-think this and try to figure out how to use this feature. The question I still have is how many shift points, and at what speeds? :?
-- Gary
drewjet
10 kW
That's actually what i am working on right now. I think you would not need more than 10 shift points.
Since I was able to manually operate it, I know that in the lowest gear on the flats 14 MPH was my max speed, however, acceleration started to taper off after about 10 MPH. So I am going to have it in lowest gear at 0-10, then start up shifting, I may find it need to start earlier as the acceleration is so fast that it may blow right past it and the shifter, may not be able to keep up. Only way to find out is to set up an acceleration course,l get some base numbers with the fixed gear, then see what works the best. It seems easy enough to set it up with 2 tables and a switch, so that should make dialing it in easier.
Hopefully I can get started on it this week.
Since I was able to manually operate it, I know that in the lowest gear on the flats 14 MPH was my max speed, however, acceleration started to taper off after about 10 MPH. So I am going to have it in lowest gear at 0-10, then start up shifting, I may find it need to start earlier as the acceleration is so fast that it may blow right past it and the shifter, may not be able to keep up. Only way to find out is to set up an acceleration course,l get some base numbers with the fixed gear, then see what works the best. It seems easy enough to set it up with 2 tables and a switch, so that should make dialing it in easier.
Hopefully I can get started on it this week.
Mundo
100 W
Okay, I find this Nuvinci CVT hub very intriguing, however, is hub exclusive to a mid-drive set-up?
After reading about it, seems that is the best application.
I've always thought internal shifting hubs are the bomb.
I ride my Mundo mostly on bike paths at the beach, when I look at the derailleur and chain, they are always filled with sand!
Right now my bike has a front 9C DD hub, with a Ping 36 V 20 AH.
If I were to try this hub, would I have to go to a mid-drive set-up?
After reading about it, seems that is the best application.
I've always thought internal shifting hubs are the bomb.
I ride my Mundo mostly on bike paths at the beach, when I look at the derailleur and chain, they are always filled with sand!
Right now my bike has a front 9C DD hub, with a Ping 36 V 20 AH.
If I were to try this hub, would I have to go to a mid-drive set-up?
kfong
100 kW
Unless you plan to only use pedal power for the Nuvinci drive. A mid drive setup is your only option.
GGoodrum
1 MW
kfong said:
Huh? :? Have you not been following this thread? There's plenty of us that are doing non-mid drive setups. On my own, I'm using a special 36t rear sprocket that also has a freewheel adapter, so that the pedal chain can drive a standard 16t freewheel. I have an AstroFlight 3220 that will use one of Matt's v4 drives as an intermediate reduction.
-- Gary
rkosiorek
100 kW
you could also lace the NuVinci into a new rim and do a chain drive similar to the Cyclone. http://www.cyclone-tw.com/index.html
But there is no easy way to use your existing hub motor to drive the NuVinci unless you try something similar to the StokeMokey drive.
http://clevercycles.com/2008/08/10/family-bike-trip-portland-to-breitenbush-and-back-again/
look about half way down that page. Using different sprocket adapters you could run the motor direct to the NuVinci instead of the stroker crank setup. you are only limited by your budget and imagination.
does your 9C motor have the disc brake cover on the right side? I'm thinking of the newer ones with the 6 bolt flange to mount the rotor. you could mount a sprocket on those, flip the motor, and run it in reverse to drive a second chain to the NuVinci using one of Staton-Inc's adapters. That way both the motor and pedals go through the NuVinci. The Mundo has loads of room in the rear triangle ahead of the wheel for the motor. and you would have to fabricate some mounts to hold the motor.
you could not use one of the ones with the threaded cover. though a freewheel could mount there it would freewheel in the wrong direction. if you managed to mount a regular freewheel backwards (upside down?) it would tend to unscrew itself. so the 6 bolt cover is the one that is needed.
ebikes.ca has a replacemet cover for the 9C. http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/SideCoverNC_D.jpg. but it is not directly compatible with the non disc motor body. some machining would be required.
just a suggestion to get you thinking. it would not be a simple bolt on solution, but then we don't know what resources you have.
rick
rick
But there is no easy way to use your existing hub motor to drive the NuVinci unless you try something similar to the StokeMokey drive.
http://clevercycles.com/2008/08/10/family-bike-trip-portland-to-breitenbush-and-back-again/
look about half way down that page. Using different sprocket adapters you could run the motor direct to the NuVinci instead of the stroker crank setup. you are only limited by your budget and imagination.
does your 9C motor have the disc brake cover on the right side? I'm thinking of the newer ones with the 6 bolt flange to mount the rotor. you could mount a sprocket on those, flip the motor, and run it in reverse to drive a second chain to the NuVinci using one of Staton-Inc's adapters. That way both the motor and pedals go through the NuVinci. The Mundo has loads of room in the rear triangle ahead of the wheel for the motor. and you would have to fabricate some mounts to hold the motor.
you could not use one of the ones with the threaded cover. though a freewheel could mount there it would freewheel in the wrong direction. if you managed to mount a regular freewheel backwards (upside down?) it would tend to unscrew itself. so the 6 bolt cover is the one that is needed.
ebikes.ca has a replacemet cover for the 9C. http://www.ebikes.ca/store/photos/SideCoverNC_D.jpg. but it is not directly compatible with the non disc motor body. some machining would be required.
just a suggestion to get you thinking. it would not be a simple bolt on solution, but then we don't know what resources you have.
rick
rick
kfong
100 kW
Sounds like a mid drive to me, but I guess I'm lumping anything that isn't a hub motor into this category.
GGoodrum said:
StudEbiker
100 kW
Kfong, the usual meaning of mid-drive is where power from the motor comes from some place in between the cranks and the hub with only one chain running to the drive wheel. These setups using dual freewheels in the rear are relatively new and rare in e-biking. I don't know that they have a classification like "mid-drive" yet, but they are not what most people think of when you say "mid-drive."
rkosiorek
100 kW
I define Mid-Drive as those where the NuVinci is used as a jackshaft with both pedals and motor providing input on one side and a single output chain to the driven wheel.
rick
rick
drewjet
10 kW
This thing is just so cool I decided to order a second one. This One I want to build on a 24" rim for my Race bike.. Thread coming soon. I would like some reccomendations on rims and spokes. From reading after acing up the last one, I think I want to use Alex DM24 rims and maybe 14/15 spokes cross 1.
Is that reasonable?
Is that reasonable?
