Odd FUSE Problem on Downtube Battery

osmanteyze

100 µW
Joined
Apr 20, 2016
Messages
8
Hi everyone. I bought an e-bike system, and company combine it on my bike.

But weird problem occurs and they can not solve this problem.

Let me give you some instructions about the system.

Battery = 48V, 11.6 ah downtube battery (samsung cells)
Lcd and controller = moped electric bicycle scooter LCD display & controller set 24v36v48v
Rear Hub = 500W


First of all I put the battery on its housing. Then push the power button and power button light is on (blue). Then when I push the "system on" button on LCD display, fuse blows. On this point (blue) light is switched off.

After that, I get off the fuse about 5 seconds and re install it. Then push the "power on" button.

Even as the blue ligh is on, I put the battery on its housing. Then I push the "system on" button on LCD display.... BINGO! It starts...

I can not find any solution. Please help me, thanks.
 
If you're trying it right after with a new fuse and it works, it could be because the inrush current from turning it on and charging the capacitors blows the fuse, then the next fuse they're charged already?
 
Voltron said:
If you're trying it right after with a new fuse and it works, it could be because the inrush current from turning it on and charging the capacitors blows the fuse, then the next fuse they're charged already?

Hello, do you mean capacitors in the controller box?

By the way, the company give an information that " they had a try with an another controller box on the system".... But Fuse blows again. I think the problem is in the battery unit. Also battery can be programmable via using USB port in the computer.
 
Voltron said:
It's a complete guess of course, but yes the capacitors in the controller.


But they changed controller with another brand, but the result does not changed. I think the problem in battery.
 
Nelson37 said:
How many fuses have you blown? Just one, or three or more? If this only happened once, might be just a defective fuse. That is a guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

Did you purchase the battery, and the controller, from the same company, or two different companies? That is a guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

Did "somebody", send a new controller TO YOU, or are they just telling you they tested it in their shop? If in their shop, is it the battery company telling you a controller change gives the same problem? If so, that would be strong indicator that the battery is defective, and they should send you a new one, or maybe just a Christmas card. That is a guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

If two separate companies, and the controller company is saying they did this test, then they are just "proving" it is not "their" hardware that is at fault, and are likely just blowing smoke up your butt. That is a guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

Have you tried taking battery off frame, waiting several hours or overnite, then installing and turning on, and if so, what happened? That is a guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

What is the specific rating of the fuse involved? I would have to guess, because YOU have failed to provide enough information.

Why do I have to make so many guesses as to exactly what is going on with YOUR problem? Is English your primary language?

How many fuses have you blown? Just one, or three or more? If this only happened once, might be just a defective fuse.
-- When I switch on the battery on its housing, my fuse blows. Every time! I do not know is it defective fuse or not.

Did you purchase the battery, and the controller, from the same company, or two different companies?
-- All components are different brand. E-bike company combines them and selling as a kit.

Did "somebody", send a new controller TO YOU, or are they just telling you they tested it in their shop? If in their shop, is it the battery company telling you a controller change gives the same problem? If so, that would be strong indicator that the battery is defective, and they should send you a new one, or maybe just a Christmas card.
-- I did not tried another controller. They said “we tried but result does not changed”. Controller change does give the same problem. Also they said “we try another type battery, battery change solves the problem”.

Have you tried taking battery off frame, waiting several hours or overnite, then installing and turning on, and if so, what happened?
-- I have not tried this yet. What may be change?

What is the specific rating of the fuse involved?
-- 32 volt is wirtten on it. When I am riding bike, LCD screen is written around 50 Volt. Is there can be problem?

English is not my mother tongue, thanks for your consideration.
 
the voltage rating of the fuse means nothing and is not relevant to your problem.
IF you can read an (xx)A (for #Amp) then you might find a solution. Fuses can usually be had with the same housing, but different ratings.

IMO I would try use a fuse rated for the next largest Amp rating... for instance, if the 'blown' fuse was 20A I would replace it with a 30A. There are other ratings relevant to fuses... but just doing this might solve your issue.

You can over-fuse a circuit to the point where the wiring becomes unprotected, but usually going just one step higher won't damage anything.
 
Nelson37 said:
It's like reading a mystery novel only to find the last few pages missing. Bugs me.
Yeah, but around here ya gotta get used to that--most people that come ask for help never even respond to our responses; of those that do, many (most?) don't come back to tell us the results, etc etc. :(

I had to force myself to give up on expecting responses of any kind: good, bad or indifferent. :/
 
The solution is simple. Put in a fuse with a higher rating. The rating is given by the colour of the fuse and the number of amps written on it. If it has 30 written on it, use a 40 one.
 
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