OVERCLOCKING an ANCHEER 20 inch folding ebike (Model AM001908 36V20" 250W)
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Matador
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djjoonie said:
That has yet to be approved and the new law has to pass.. Not yet in application.
Plus they only allow peddle-assist NO-THROTTLE eBikes.
If you have a twist or thumb throttle, they can take your eBike away, even if your not using the throttle and only using peddle assist.
This is stupid. Both means top out at 20 mph anyways.
I could probably design a peddle assist to go much faster than 20 mph if I was so inclined.
The lack of throttle doesnt make it any safer. THis is such BS. The lack of throttle just makes it harder to control power to wheels (especially for ebikes with cheap cadence sensors that do not have torque sensing ability). You can have a sense of how uneducated people who try to regulate eBikes in NYC are. You can have a peddle assist 750W mid-drive (which can be tweeked to reach 30-35 mph), yet if you have a tiny weak 250W geared hub that tops out at a maximum 16 mph with full throttle applied, it`s illegal because it has a throttle. Clearly they have absolutely no idea about how to regulate ebikes. Sombody is going to come up with a wireless throttle hidden in your coat sleeveto avoid that stupid regulation... AN there you go, the eBike has no throttle... My coat has a throttle. Clearly, NYC is missing the mark here. Throttled eBikes are legal in california and they are regulated. NYC again, doing stuff they should not be doing, trying to regulate ebikes by people who have never even ridden one in their life. More and more wealthy people want to ride ebikes! Let us do it.
Following that stupid logic, we should add some pedals to sporty motorcyles and remove their throttle.
Matador
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I'm thinking I should insert a triple connector in the wire from the motor to the controller.
Hasn't happened to me yet but it seem like changing a rear flat tire would be a PITA as there is no way to quickly and easily disconnect the hub motor from the inframe controller. That can be a problem if a flat happends far from home and I need to remove the back wheel.
Should I splice in a triple anderson or a MT60 connector like the ones below in my phase wires going to the motor ?
The other way to do for the rear flat it is to have the rear wheel sit on the frame to change the flat but that sounds like a PITA ... Like he does in this vid at 00:50 :
[youtube]BeKg0BjX7gI[/youtube]
So I plan on splicing a connector in the phase wires, but I'm wondering....
Are there any risk of messing with my controller capacitors, messing up impedance or something ?
I'm talking about this wire:
Matador
Hasn't happened to me yet but it seem like changing a rear flat tire would be a PITA as there is no way to quickly and easily disconnect the hub motor from the inframe controller. That can be a problem if a flat happends far from home and I need to remove the back wheel.
Should I splice in a triple anderson or a MT60 connector like the ones below in my phase wires going to the motor ?
The other way to do for the rear flat it is to have the rear wheel sit on the frame to change the flat but that sounds like a PITA ... Like he does in this vid at 00:50 :
[youtube]BeKg0BjX7gI[/youtube]
So I plan on splicing a connector in the phase wires, but I'm wondering....
Are there any risk of messing with my controller capacitors, messing up impedance or something ?
I'm talking about this wire:
Matador
I use Andersons on my hub motor but they are a bit bulky. The MT-60 3 pin looks much more compact and should have no problem with that much current.
Matador
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I was wondering also if the display and PAS from display would work at 48 volts.
The display is a Key-Disp model KD26E that can be bought seperatly:
Specs and manual of the display here http://www.key-display.com/content/?165.html
Apparently supports 24, 36 and 48V.
The display is a Key-Disp model KD26E that can be bought seperatly:
Specs and manual of the display here http://www.key-display.com/content/?165.html
Apparently supports 24, 36 and 48V.
Matador
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Anyboday know with led-display/pas selector like the one i have.
Do the K26D runs on either 24, 36 or 48V. Or do I have to by either a 24, 36 or 48V version of the display is I intend to change the battery voltage ? I dont want to burn my K26D display/PAS selector if it`s only rated for 36V. Do you guys think it`s can support any of the three voltage nominal or is it only a single nominal value. I cant be sure from what I read of the company and manual.
ANybody has experience or advice ?
The controller seems to be able to work on both36 or 48V, but the display/PAS selector ?
What should I expect ? Can I just swap in a 48V (or 52V) intead of the stock 36V battery ? (I`m almost ready to build a Vruzend V2 beta-testing 13SP or 14S2P) ? Will there be magic smoke coming off the controller ? the display ? Any help from your experience with similar equipement would be appreciated !
Do the K26D runs on either 24, 36 or 48V. Or do I have to by either a 24, 36 or 48V version of the display is I intend to change the battery voltage ? I dont want to burn my K26D display/PAS selector if it`s only rated for 36V. Do you guys think it`s can support any of the three voltage nominal or is it only a single nominal value. I cant be sure from what I read of the company and manual.
ANybody has experience or advice ?
The controller seems to be able to work on both36 or 48V, but the display/PAS selector ?
What should I expect ? Can I just swap in a 48V (or 52V) intead of the stock 36V battery ? (I`m almost ready to build a Vruzend V2 beta-testing 13SP or 14S2P) ? Will there be magic smoke coming off the controller ? the display ? Any help from your experience with similar equipement would be appreciated !
docw009
10 MW
I bought a bunch of linear inner tubes for my ebikes. I've never had to install one on the road, but I did mount a 700cc unit for testing to see how hard it was to install. Easy. Rode it for a long time. My 20" model is kind of thick at 2", and my tires are 1.75", but should suffice.
You only have three wires to the Ancheer motor? Then it's sensorless. I use the Higo/Julet 9 min motor connector. It comes on BMSBattery motors. The connector will slip thru a 12 mm axle nut and will still fit if soldered properly. My main concern with using it is strain relief. Solder joints crack if flexed, so I try to put the soldered part in a section of cable that I can tie down. But if you only have three wires and plan to disconnect, the other connectors are easier.
You only have three wires to the Ancheer motor? Then it's sensorless. I use the Higo/Julet 9 min motor connector. It comes on BMSBattery motors. The connector will slip thru a 12 mm axle nut and will still fit if soldered properly. My main concern with using it is strain relief. Solder joints crack if flexed, so I try to put the soldered part in a section of cable that I can tie down. But if you only have three wires and plan to disconnect, the other connectors are easier.
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docw009
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How many wires go to your LED display console? Mine is an 810LED model, an analog unit with four wires being being battery, ground, start, and PAS output. The PAS output is four DC voltages that corresponds to the desired assist level or walk mode. Mine works for either 48V or 36V because the internal circuit runs off an internal 5V converter. However, the power display is hard wired for either 36 or 48V, and the LVC is determined by the controller. I have to be careful when I run mine at 48V as the battery display will be wrong. There is an LVC in the battery BMS but those are often set too low.
Matador
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docw009 said:
docw009 thanks for all the info ! That`s really useful !
You`re right... I think I have the hall sense wire too... I`m such an amateur.... An I already ordered 5 Amass MT60 triple connectors. Shoot...
From this vid at around 21:55, it looks like I (and all the ANCHEER ebikes that use this system) also have hall sensor wires. damn...
Will have to find another solution... Your Higo connector sounds like a great solution. I guess I underestimated this whole task.
[youtube]vw_BRhsyJoY[/youtube]
docw009 said:
I ended up buying the exact same display on eBay but rated 48V. Got it for 15 $... https://www.ebay.com/itm/LED-Display-panel-for-Electric-Bikes-Electric-Scooter-and-Electric-Bicycle-48V/322638651007?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I think my controller (see my previous post) would also work at 48V (36V/48V). Not sure if the controller will automatically choose right LVC thought. There is a sticker on the controller that says "Battery Voltage 36/48V" and "Cutoff voltage 28/38V". Caps in the controller are all rated 63V.
Matador said:
You should be able to switch the 10s with a 14s, but your display guage will not work. I have done this with the my 24v (7s) controller. My controller is capable of handle more than 24v, but the LVC cutoff is programmed to cutoff at 22v. I am not sure If i can re-program the controller and never really bothered with it. I use both the 24v and 36v batteries interchangeably. If I use 36v, I have to very careful and monitor the pack manually as the display still thinks its 100% full. I use the 24v/20 Ah pack for when I need range, and the 36v pack for when I need a bit more power assist.
Matador said:
I had the same concern with my ebike display/computer when over-volting. It did not burn...thankfully. And even if it did, I know how to hotwire the controller to turn it "on" so that i could still ride it using the throttle only. I am guessing you dont have a a throttle, so you will need the display to make your ebike work. Make sure you have a spare display unit, if this is your only ebike. If all else fails, You can simply purchase a 48v (sensored) controller with a throttle and a LED display. You should be to source these from ebay.
EDIT: you can try this controller w/ 810 LED display: (as a contingency) https://www.ebay.com/itm/48V-30A-Brushless-DC-Motor-Controller-ebike-LCD-LED-ebikeling/272816043192?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D52569%26meid%3D30e33f38a88545a5bc68611e55ace63f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dlo%26sd%3D273086658645%26itm%3D272816043192&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
I also use eBikeling controllers and display on my ebike.
Good luck.
Matador
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Thanks !
I now has two of the same PAS displays one is factory setted for the LED display for 36V range while the new one I got is factory setted for the LED display for the 48V range. Asides that, both display look exactly the same... they were just programmed differently at the factory for different voltages.
I just received a 14S Li-Ion 51.8V nominal 45A continuous BMS for my battery.
I do have a throttle also !
The 48V 30A controller seems like a good deal ! But if I run a 14S battery at 58.8V hot off the charger and 30A through that controller, thats (before considering voltage sag/heat and losses) almost 1800 Watts of injected power into the motor thats made to handle 250W in the factory.... I`m afraid that will fry my planetary gear or coils.... I think just 10A continuous (20A peak) at 52V would satisfy me enough... Right now the controller I got runs 36V nominal, 7.5A continuous (15A max)... Just want to make it a bit more peppy but still reliable. All in all, I might upgrade the hub motor in the future if I plan to go higher watts... but this is a relatively low end bike with rather cheap component. So while i`d like to be able to cruise at 35 kph and max at 40-42kph, I see no use to go higher speed on that 20 inch foldable... The suspension is not that great (sping loaded) and the disk brakes are mecanical. But overall I really like how it`s functionnal. It`s just that 25 kph does seem fast enough (I got used to my BBSHD in canada... so 250W hub is a bit of a downgrade !)
I now has two of the same PAS displays one is factory setted for the LED display for 36V range while the new one I got is factory setted for the LED display for the 48V range. Asides that, both display look exactly the same... they were just programmed differently at the factory for different voltages.
I just received a 14S Li-Ion 51.8V nominal 45A continuous BMS for my battery.
I do have a throttle also !
The 48V 30A controller seems like a good deal ! But if I run a 14S battery at 58.8V hot off the charger and 30A through that controller, thats (before considering voltage sag/heat and losses) almost 1800 Watts of injected power into the motor thats made to handle 250W in the factory.... I`m afraid that will fry my planetary gear or coils.... I think just 10A continuous (20A peak) at 52V would satisfy me enough... Right now the controller I got runs 36V nominal, 7.5A continuous (15A max)... Just want to make it a bit more peppy but still reliable. All in all, I might upgrade the hub motor in the future if I plan to go higher watts... but this is a relatively low end bike with rather cheap component. So while i`d like to be able to cruise at 35 kph and max at 40-42kph, I see no use to go higher speed on that 20 inch foldable... The suspension is not that great (sping loaded) and the disk brakes are mecanical. But overall I really like how it`s functionnal. It`s just that 25 kph does seem fast enough (I got used to my BBSHD in canada... so 250W hub is a bit of a downgrade !)
I woudn't worry about burning the motor. The 30A is peak rating. Maybe during stop and go, the motor may require that much amperage, but will drop off as you speed. The controller will not push 30A, but the motor will pull whatever power it needs. When the motor reaches its top speed, it probably wont be using anything over 2A, even if the controller is capable of providing 30A of burst (and 10A constant).
The high amperage the rating, the cooler the controller will be (as there are more FETS to share the load). When it comes to speed, Motor windings, motor efficiency and battery discharge ratings have an impact on speed. On my MAC motor (10T winding), I can ride 40 kph (25 mph) on flats (using 36v battery). But on my cheap ebikling motor i only get 32 kph (20 mph) with the same 36v battery.
Maybe the issue you are having is not the motor or voltage. It could be your battery is not providing enough juice? There may be voltage sag in the batteries or high resistance. Maybe you can try using a watt- meter to see what is really happening. I never heard of BAK branded batteries, but the odds are high, that these cells are 10 year old laptop cells...can you post some pictures of the cells?
As for ANCHEER spare parts, how did you manage to contact the vendor? Based on the reviews on these bikes, it seems that spare parts and batteries were very difficult to source. Maybe alibaba or aliexpress would tell a different story. It's just one needs to look at the right place.
Below is a pic of my various controllers for different kits. As you can see the left two are 36 volt controllers. One is rated 15A and the other is 22A. I prefer using the 22A on my motor. It provides more power to my motor which helps when going uphills.
on the right is a 24v controller, which is the basically the same as 15A 36volt controller pre-programmed for 24 volt batteries.
The high amperage the rating, the cooler the controller will be (as there are more FETS to share the load). When it comes to speed, Motor windings, motor efficiency and battery discharge ratings have an impact on speed. On my MAC motor (10T winding), I can ride 40 kph (25 mph) on flats (using 36v battery). But on my cheap ebikling motor i only get 32 kph (20 mph) with the same 36v battery.
Maybe the issue you are having is not the motor or voltage. It could be your battery is not providing enough juice? There may be voltage sag in the batteries or high resistance. Maybe you can try using a watt- meter to see what is really happening. I never heard of BAK branded batteries, but the odds are high, that these cells are 10 year old laptop cells...can you post some pictures of the cells?
As for ANCHEER spare parts, how did you manage to contact the vendor? Based on the reviews on these bikes, it seems that spare parts and batteries were very difficult to source. Maybe alibaba or aliexpress would tell a different story. It's just one needs to look at the right place.
Below is a pic of my various controllers for different kits. As you can see the left two are 36 volt controllers. One is rated 15A and the other is 22A. I prefer using the 22A on my motor. It provides more power to my motor which helps when going uphills.
on the right is a 24v controller, which is the basically the same as 15A 36volt controller pre-programmed for 24 volt batteries.
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wturber
1 MW
Overclock? Well, the simple thing to do IMO is to get a voltage booster like the one I use (see my signature). No expense of changing out batteries and such. You'll be able to dial in the voltage you want. You can protect the battery by setting the low voltage cuttoff to the appropriate value with the booster.
Advantages:
1) You don't need to buy a new battery - $30-40 cost vs. $300-$400?
2) You'll have a wide range of possible voltages.
3) Your top speed does not change as the battery drains. At least not until the battery is almost empty.
Downsides:
1) I'm pretty sure that you'll lose the functionality of any "fuel gauge" feature since the system will see a fairly constant voltage all the time.
2) You'll only get about 95% of your total battery power due to losses through the controller
3) A bit of added complexity and waterproofing issues due to the extra component and wiring.
Advantages:
1) You don't need to buy a new battery - $30-40 cost vs. $300-$400?
2) You'll have a wide range of possible voltages.
3) Your top speed does not change as the battery drains. At least not until the battery is almost empty.
Downsides:
1) I'm pretty sure that you'll lose the functionality of any "fuel gauge" feature since the system will see a fairly constant voltage all the time.
2) You'll only get about 95% of your total battery power due to losses through the controller
3) A bit of added complexity and waterproofing issues due to the extra component and wiring.
Nickelodeon
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Matador said:
Hi Matador,
Yes that's me
Your thread actually made me want to look for this bike and then luckily found a great offer for it! Did you ever get to try a 48v Battery with the stock controller? I have a large 48v battery that would more than double my range and it being 48v also give it a little extra power, but haven't tried connecting it yet.
I also really like the stealthiness of the small included battery so not sure if and how I should mount the big shark battery. I'm guessing make a custom part to put it on top of the frame.
Matador
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Nickelodeon said:Matador said:
Hi Matador,
Yes that's me
Did you ever get to try a 48v Battery with the stock controller? I have a large 48v battery that would more than double my range and it being 48v also give it a little extra power, but haven't tried connecting it yet.
I also really like the stealthiness of the small included battery so not sure if and how I should mount the big shark battery. I'm guessing make a custom part to put it on top of the frame.
Nice you got that offer! How`s the eBike doing. Mine is working good. Made some custom changes but haven`t yet had time to upgrade to 48V. Actually I will do 52V.
Matador
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I found that at full throttle (25 km/h) on the original OEM setup for that 20 inch Ancheer folding e-Bike, I was pedelling at too fast a cadence to add even a slight amount of power to help out the motor and go even faster... So I deceided to customise change my setup.
This is the original gearings:
So I was thinking of either
A) Put a bigger chainring OR
B) Put a smaller rear cassette (Actually it`s not a cassette but really a 7-speed freewheel).
I ended up doing both and now I can pedal extremely fast... I will have to match this with voltage overclocking of the controller. I plan to go from 36V to 52V (Original OEM controller is bimodal either 36 or 48V with either 28 or 38 LVC respectively).
Original Freewheel = Xin Du 7-speed 14-28T (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 28). Pics below
New Freewheel = DNP Epoch 7 speed 11-30T (11, 13, 15, 18, 20, 24, 30). Pics below:View attachment 2
This first mod increase speed for same cadence by a factor 1,27 X.
Nota Bene. You need a special tool to remove the freewheel :
This tool works amazingely well. I've see bad review of other clones, but this Park tool is amazing.
Also worth mentionning that both these seven-speed freewheel have the same thickness (no need to widen dropouts). I don`t know if it would work with 8 or more speed freewheel, but my derailleur control only has 7 positions anyways.
Matador
This is the original gearings:
So I was thinking of either
A) Put a bigger chainring OR
B) Put a smaller rear cassette (Actually it`s not a cassette but really a 7-speed freewheel).
I ended up doing both and now I can pedal extremely fast... I will have to match this with voltage overclocking of the controller. I plan to go from 36V to 52V (Original OEM controller is bimodal either 36 or 48V with either 28 or 38 LVC respectively).
Original Freewheel = Xin Du 7-speed 14-28T (14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 24, 28). Pics below
New Freewheel = DNP Epoch 7 speed 11-30T (11, 13, 15, 18, 20, 24, 30). Pics below:View attachment 2
This first mod increase speed for same cadence by a factor 1,27 X.
Nota Bene. You need a special tool to remove the freewheel :
This tool works amazingely well. I've see bad review of other clones, but this Park tool is amazing.
Also worth mentionning that both these seven-speed freewheel have the same thickness (no need to widen dropouts). I don`t know if it would work with 8 or more speed freewheel, but my derailleur control only has 7 positions anyways.
Matador
Matador
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Then I changed to a bigger chainring.
Here is the original 48T chairing and attached right crankarm:View attachment 5
Swapped for a CYSKY 60T crankset (60 teeth!, with 170mm Crankarms and 130 mm BCD, Square Taper, Black):View attachment 4
Got it from Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Single-Crankset-Crankarms-CYSKY-Bicycle/dp/B072N56W2N
Video review from somebody else if you're interested : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOIwEEw_buo
Chain lenght is good as is (didn't have to change lenght... And I used both the simple and the complex formulas to verify if I had to add links... no need).
But to avoid the chain from falling off sometimes, I had to add a chain bashgard.... This one to be exact:
Got it on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/DRIVELINE-Bash-Guard-Chain-Guard-42-44-48-50-52-53-56-60-Teeth-Black-/261426772443
"Driveline Chainring Guard 60 Teeth Black" (they also make them in 42, 44, 48, 50, 52, 53 and 56T):View attachment 3
So with both piece mounted, it looks like this:View attachment 2
So now my ratio is 1,57 X compared to original setup...
Which means, on the original setup, with the hardest gears on I could only pedal 36 km/h at a 110 RPM pedal cadence (like a hamster running in a hamster wheel).... Now with my new setup, pedalling at 110 RPM gets me to 57 km/h in theory... But to reach 36 km/h, I would need a more resonable cadence of 70 RPM (on the hardest gear that is 11T.... can alway go to 13T and go a bit higher RPM for human leg efficiency, but at least I can have a bit of fun on downhills now with the 11T)...
Here is the original 48T chairing and attached right crankarm:View attachment 5
Swapped for a CYSKY 60T crankset (60 teeth!, with 170mm Crankarms and 130 mm BCD, Square Taper, Black):View attachment 4
Got it from Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/Single-Crankset-Crankarms-CYSKY-Bicycle/dp/B072N56W2N
Video review from somebody else if you're interested : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOIwEEw_buo
Chain lenght is good as is (didn't have to change lenght... And I used both the simple and the complex formulas to verify if I had to add links... no need).
But to avoid the chain from falling off sometimes, I had to add a chain bashgard.... This one to be exact:
Got it on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/itm/DRIVELINE-Bash-Guard-Chain-Guard-42-44-48-50-52-53-56-60-Teeth-Black-/261426772443
"Driveline Chainring Guard 60 Teeth Black" (they also make them in 42, 44, 48, 50, 52, 53 and 56T):View attachment 3
So with both piece mounted, it looks like this:View attachment 2
So now my ratio is 1,57 X compared to original setup...
Which means, on the original setup, with the hardest gears on I could only pedal 36 km/h at a 110 RPM pedal cadence (like a hamster running in a hamster wheel).... Now with my new setup, pedalling at 110 RPM gets me to 57 km/h in theory... But to reach 36 km/h, I would need a more resonable cadence of 70 RPM (on the hardest gear that is 11T.... can alway go to 13T and go a bit higher RPM for human leg efficiency, but at least I can have a bit of fun on downhills now with the 11T)...
Matador
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And my rational for choosing such gearing is the following...
Gears, RPM pedal cadence and speed on a 20 inch bike:
The thing is fast now... Got mechanical advantage even if it`s a 20 inch ebike... Love the stuff
Matador.
Next step will be battery
Got new cells. Just recieved a 14S Li-Ion BMS and Urvhaksha sent me a Vruzend V2 prototype I will use soon to make a battery and overclock the motor and controller combo...
Already got myself the new 48V LED display (looks exactly the same as the 36V display, but will be accurate... or at least more accurate on 52V)...
Let me know what you think
Matador
Gears, RPM pedal cadence and speed on a 20 inch bike:
The thing is fast now... Got mechanical advantage even if it`s a 20 inch ebike... Love the stuff
Matador.
Next step will be battery
Got new cells. Just recieved a 14S Li-Ion BMS and Urvhaksha sent me a Vruzend V2 prototype I will use soon to make a battery and overclock the motor and controller combo...
Already got myself the new 48V LED display (looks exactly the same as the 36V display, but will be accurate... or at least more accurate on 52V)...
Let me know what you think
Matador
wturber
1 MW
Years ago I dealt with the same issue on my 16" wheeled Dahon. It was a bit harder to find larger ring gears back then - no internet. So I ended up making a 72 tooth chainring using my drill press, band saw, wooden jig, and some files.
The chainstay interference was a problem though. The idler wheel worked, but was hardly ideal. So I dialed it back to a 61 tooth that Mr. Bill at Landis Cyclery hunted down for me. That size let the chain clear the chain stay - barely. Of course that chain ring had a nonstandard 6 bolt pattern, so I ended up bolting it to the inner portion of a smaller chain ring.
With small wheels, this bike was super-fast to accelerate. It was the best bike for getting through an intersection starting from a dead stop that I've ever had. I could burst to 30 mph very quickly. Sustaining that cadence was quite another another matter. But the gearing gave me very nice commuting speeds in the high teens to low-mid twenties. I still have the bike and have plans to put a small electric hub on the back.
The chainstay interference was a problem though. The idler wheel worked, but was hardly ideal. So I dialed it back to a 61 tooth that Mr. Bill at Landis Cyclery hunted down for me. That size let the chain clear the chain stay - barely. Of course that chain ring had a nonstandard 6 bolt pattern, so I ended up bolting it to the inner portion of a smaller chain ring.
With small wheels, this bike was super-fast to accelerate. It was the best bike for getting through an intersection starting from a dead stop that I've ever had. I could burst to 30 mph very quickly. Sustaining that cadence was quite another another matter. But the gearing gave me very nice commuting speeds in the high teens to low-mid twenties. I still have the bike and have plans to put a small electric hub on the back.
Matador
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Thank for sharing wtuber !
I'm really impressed by your custom 72T homemade chairing. It take serious dedication to take the time to do this and litterally file each teeth youselve, but you where serious about it. Must of been a blast to ride ! Converting it to electric would be very interesting indeed ! I'd probably build a small 14S3P battery with Samsung 30T 21700 cells.
Remind me of this pic I came across while looking for a big chainring. Isn't that crazy !
http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviews/video-how-fast-can-you-go-with-an-104-tooth-chainring
How fast can you go with a 104T chainring ?
Now that I have the right gearing to keep up easily, I'll have to overvolt my controller.
If only I could find a spare controller in case I fry the OEM one... I have yet to find one with the same number of wires...
OEM controller and wires here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93576&hilit=ancheer#p1369265
Anybody know where I could find a spare ? Hard to find one that keep 810-LED display, PAS, Throttle control, 2 Brakes, 1 light and speed limiter. It does have 63V caps. I just want to increase from 10S to 14S. Currently it's 15A MAX, 7.5A continuous. I'd like to either keep that amp (afraid of overheating) or increase maybe to 18, 20 or at most 22A... Maybe I should go all the way up to 72V (bummer, already have a 13S and 14S BMSs on hand but no 20S BMS)
More and more I`m thinking about getting a 72V Cycle satiator, but 500 bucks canadian ouch ! Anybody selling one used by chance ?
I'm really impressed by your custom 72T homemade chairing. It take serious dedication to take the time to do this and litterally file each teeth youselve, but you where serious about it. Must of been a blast to ride ! Converting it to electric would be very interesting indeed ! I'd probably build a small 14S3P battery with Samsung 30T 21700 cells.
Remind me of this pic I came across while looking for a big chainring. Isn't that crazy !
http://www.roadbikereview.com/reviews/video-how-fast-can-you-go-with-an-104-tooth-chainring
How fast can you go with a 104T chainring ?
Now that I have the right gearing to keep up easily, I'll have to overvolt my controller.
If only I could find a spare controller in case I fry the OEM one... I have yet to find one with the same number of wires...
OEM controller and wires here https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=93576&hilit=ancheer#p1369265
Anybody know where I could find a spare ? Hard to find one that keep 810-LED display, PAS, Throttle control, 2 Brakes, 1 light and speed limiter. It does have 63V caps. I just want to increase from 10S to 14S. Currently it's 15A MAX, 7.5A continuous. I'd like to either keep that amp (afraid of overheating) or increase maybe to 18, 20 or at most 22A... Maybe I should go all the way up to 72V (bummer, already have a 13S and 14S BMSs on hand but no 20S BMS)
More and more I`m thinking about getting a 72V Cycle satiator, but 500 bucks canadian ouch ! Anybody selling one used by chance ?
wturber
1 MW
Matador said:Thank for sharing wtuber !
I'm really impressed by your custom 72T homemade chairing. It take serious dedication to take the time to do this and litterally file each teeth youselve, but you where serious about it. Must of been a blast to ride!
Well, I used a drill press, and jig to to the bulk of the work and only used hand-files to fine tune and adjust things.
Matador said:
Yeah - motor pacing. Sometimes I'd catch a city bus at just the right time and i'd be able to motor pace at 30 + mph for almost half a mile - which was fun. Maybe not as fun as this guy doing 80 mph behind his pace car though.
Matador said:
He did 80 mph motorpaced. Testing on rollers suggests 100 mph might be possible.
Reminds me of Mile a Minute Murphy from over a century ago
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Charles_Minthorn_Murphy
Matador said:
How fast do you want to go? Keep in mind that your bike has no suspension and has small wheels. Small wheels are less friendly to road irregularities than large ones and benefit more from having suspension.
Matador
100 kW
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,045
How fast do you want to go? Keep in mind that your bike has no suspension and has small wheels. Small wheels are less friendly to road irregularities than large ones and benefit more from having suspension.
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You're right, small wheel are definitly not the best for high speed. Can be a bit unstable.... Actually now that I'm in Toronto (Canada), I experience a crash with this bike already. Bike is fine and only got a major bruise on the left hip, but no fracture or anything serious...
Sooo the answer is, not that fast, but a bit faster. Honestly cruising at 25 km/h feel a bit slow when I'm on dedicated bike lanes separated from the street.... I`d like to cruise at 32 km/h and maybe have the ability to reach 35 to 40 km/h. I'm not going to attempt anything higher than 40 km/h on this bike...
THe front fork has a spring suspension, but not the best indeed. No rear suspension.
I must say I mostly use the 13T (2nd gear) on the rear for speed, unless there is a slight downhill... but it's good to have the option...
