OVERCLOCKING an ANCHEER 20 inch folding ebike (Model AM001908 36V20" 250W)
- Thread starter Matador
- Start date
docw009
10 MW
If you still get the three PAS levels with the overvolted 36V display, maybe you can get a little 60V voltmeter module, under $5-8 on ebay , and put it next to the KD26E.
Does the throttle only work on the Ancheer if no PAS is selected?
Does the throttle only work on the Ancheer if no PAS is selected?
Matador
100 kW
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- Jun 29, 2016
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Correct.
Throttle mode works only when I disable PAS.
The 36V stock display has 4 modes :
Mode 0 - Throttle only, no PAS
Mode 1 - PAS low (no throttle)
Mode 2 - PAS mid (no throttle)
Mode 3 - PAS high (no throttle)
Wheras the aftermaket 48V version of this same display that I bought on ebay only has mode 1, 2 and 3, but does not let me access the mode 0 for throttle activation.
Matador
Throttle mode works only when I disable PAS.
The 36V stock display has 4 modes :
Mode 0 - Throttle only, no PAS
Mode 1 - PAS low (no throttle)
Mode 2 - PAS mid (no throttle)
Mode 3 - PAS high (no throttle)
Wheras the aftermaket 48V version of this same display that I bought on ebay only has mode 1, 2 and 3, but does not let me access the mode 0 for throttle activation.
Matador
Matador
100 kW
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I'm so concern about the need for a replacement controller (now that I'm planning on overvolting the stock controller and working on a new batteries),
I was trying to find some potential cheap controller alternatives for replacement when I will blow the stock one
The Ancheer seller does not help with spare parts, so I'm trying to figure out the part myself.
To help with adequate replacement controller candidates parts (looking for exemple to buy 2 or 3 controller on eBay), I had to study all the wiring harness of this ancheer eBike (guessing it'll likely be the same or very simillar for other ancheer eBikes).
No diagram anywhere on the internet. So I did a drawing of my own of the wiring warness I studied extensively.
I'm trying to figure out the throttle (analogous or digitial) and display (analogous or digital). The number of wires seemed a bit unusual for both the devices.
Hence I'm puzzled with which cheap controller I could use with the correct wires (I don't mind changing the connectors if needed, so as long as I can still use my original PAS-sensor, twist throttle, display, 48V front light and horn).
Any suggestions (we're talking 36/48V controller good for 15-20A peaks) for a replacement non-OEM suitable controller based on compatible wiring diagram below ??
Here's my own drawing (still perfecting it):
Original controller is this one (but I can't find it anywhere on the internet for sell. Except an italian website who ships in italy but most likely not Canada (or if they do shipping will get crazy) and asks 60 euros for one):
View attachment 1
Matador
I was trying to find some potential cheap controller alternatives for replacement when I will blow the stock one
The Ancheer seller does not help with spare parts, so I'm trying to figure out the part myself.
To help with adequate replacement controller candidates parts (looking for exemple to buy 2 or 3 controller on eBay), I had to study all the wiring harness of this ancheer eBike (guessing it'll likely be the same or very simillar for other ancheer eBikes).
No diagram anywhere on the internet. So I did a drawing of my own of the wiring warness I studied extensively.
I'm trying to figure out the throttle (analogous or digitial) and display (analogous or digital). The number of wires seemed a bit unusual for both the devices.
Hence I'm puzzled with which cheap controller I could use with the correct wires (I don't mind changing the connectors if needed, so as long as I can still use my original PAS-sensor, twist throttle, display, 48V front light and horn).
Any suggestions (we're talking 36/48V controller good for 15-20A peaks) for a replacement non-OEM suitable controller based on compatible wiring diagram below ??
Here's my own drawing (still perfecting it):
Original controller is this one (but I can't find it anywhere on the internet for sell. Except an italian website who ships in italy but most likely not Canada (or if they do shipping will get crazy) and asks 60 euros for one):
View attachment 1
Matador
Matador
100 kW
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Guess nobody has an answer for the controller question I'm wondering about. Went trough the effort of drawing the whole wiring harness of the bike to make it clear what it needs to be able to hande...
Will open a specific thread about my specific controller question soon as it does not seem to be visible enough in this thread to get answers. I'm sure there's some real controller knowledgeble person here who knows exactly what are my options for chinese controller.
Meanwhile, still serious about this overvolting...
As show previously, bike works at overvolted 58.8V off the charger.
Now building the battery... 14S4P, 8.6Ah max 40A (overkill for this 15A controller). BMS is 45 amps.
Got 3 LG-Chem hoverboard battery = 60 cells for 105 USD few months back, from alarmhookup.
Dissassembled everything. Had sand every terminal... and rewrap the LG MF1 cells (2150 mAh, 10A) because the old wraps were flaking off.... Then I assembled the new battery using some nice honeycomb type holder.
Got a 45 A BMS.
I dont have a spotwelder, so I plan to use my 140W soldering Iron....
Got some 0.005" (0.127 mm) 99.99% copper sheet. Will double thickness (0.25mm)... 10+ mm wide by 0.25 mm thick will be conductive enough... will the cut slits to melt solder through and aid rapid melted solder flow through holes/slits and thus good contact with cell terminals ...
PICS
View attachment 5View attachment 4
View attachment 2
Matador
Will open a specific thread about my specific controller question soon as it does not seem to be visible enough in this thread to get answers. I'm sure there's some real controller knowledgeble person here who knows exactly what are my options for chinese controller.
Meanwhile, still serious about this overvolting...
As show previously, bike works at overvolted 58.8V off the charger.
Now building the battery... 14S4P, 8.6Ah max 40A (overkill for this 15A controller). BMS is 45 amps.
Got 3 LG-Chem hoverboard battery = 60 cells for 105 USD few months back, from alarmhookup.
Dissassembled everything. Had sand every terminal... and rewrap the LG MF1 cells (2150 mAh, 10A) because the old wraps were flaking off.... Then I assembled the new battery using some nice honeycomb type holder.
Got a 45 A BMS.
I dont have a spotwelder, so I plan to use my 140W soldering Iron....
Got some 0.005" (0.127 mm) 99.99% copper sheet. Will double thickness (0.25mm)... 10+ mm wide by 0.25 mm thick will be conductive enough... will the cut slits to melt solder through and aid rapid melted solder flow through holes/slits and thus good contact with cell terminals ...
PICS
View attachment 5View attachment 4View attachment 2Matador
I have searched around for the motor controller since I bought the bike and have never found an exact match anywhere. My next step was checking out some of the open design motor controllers that are being worked on. It seemed like this would be the best way to get a replacement option.
Some notes to add if you are interested. The motor controller is a standard uart connector. At some point I will hook up my logic analyzer and figure out the control protocol for it. That may help with your controller compatibility problem. My guess is the 0 setting is sending a different command, or not sending any command. It is also possible that this controller is an EU variant which doesn't allow throttle and is instead putting the unit into walk assist mode. I think if you put it in 0 mode and hold down the - button it might turn the motor for you.
That is quite the battery pack you are putting together. Where do you plan on mounting it?
Some notes to add if you are interested. The motor controller is a standard uart connector. At some point I will hook up my logic analyzer and figure out the control protocol for it. That may help with your controller compatibility problem. My guess is the 0 setting is sending a different command, or not sending any command. It is also possible that this controller is an EU variant which doesn't allow throttle and is instead putting the unit into walk assist mode. I think if you put it in 0 mode and hold down the - button it might turn the motor for you.
That is quite the battery pack you are putting together. Where do you plan on mounting it?
Matador
100 kW
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Thanks Linux4kix. I'm a bit of a noob when it comes to controllers. I was hoping I could find a cheap chinese controller substitute. I dont mind having to change the connectors, as long as it can work out in the end with the same twist throttle, same LED display and PAS magnets.
The thing is, I feel I'm going to need a new controller sooner or later since I'm overvolting quite significantly... I'm probably going to burn that 36/48V controller at 52V... Capacitors are rated 63V and FETs are rated 68V I think. If only Ancheer would tell us where their controller are sourced from... But it seems to me that Ancheer bearly knows that their e-Bikes have a controller inside to make them function.
For my 58.8V battery, I'm almost done... I had to improvise without a spotwelder so I ended up soldering copper sheets instead. I wired the BMS tonight... Now I only need to find some padding and some kind of large shrink wrap, but other than that, everything is ready. As a matter of fact, I'm charging the bare battery wired to it's BMS for the first time the moment we speak.
Pihotos to come soon.
In all honesty, don't know where I will put the battery yet. For sure it wont fit inside the frame tube. Maybe on the rear rack or something. If I can find a rack storage compartment box like the one you showed previously, maybe that could work out to be a good place to put the new battery in...
The thing is, I feel I'm going to need a new controller sooner or later since I'm overvolting quite significantly... I'm probably going to burn that 36/48V controller at 52V... Capacitors are rated 63V and FETs are rated 68V I think. If only Ancheer would tell us where their controller are sourced from... But it seems to me that Ancheer bearly knows that their e-Bikes have a controller inside to make them function.
For my 58.8V battery, I'm almost done... I had to improvise without a spotwelder so I ended up soldering copper sheets instead. I wired the BMS tonight... Now I only need to find some padding and some kind of large shrink wrap, but other than that, everything is ready. As a matter of fact, I'm charging the bare battery wired to it's BMS for the first time the moment we speak.
Pihotos to come soon.
In all honesty, don't know where I will put the battery yet. For sure it wont fit inside the frame tube. Maybe on the rear rack or something. If I can find a rack storage compartment box like the one you showed previously, maybe that could work out to be a good place to put the new battery in...
docw009
10 MW
I doubt you will blow the controller, but if you do, you can replace the LED unit and controller with a KT controller and LCD3 display for around 80-100 dollars. It will work with the brakes, throttle, and PAS sensor although you will have to figure the connectors.
Where to put the battery on a folder is always a problem. You could have made a 4S-4P booster battery with BMS and put it under the seat.
Where to put the battery on a folder is always a problem. You could have made a 4S-4P booster battery with BMS and put it under the seat.
Matador
100 kW
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docw009 said:
That's a good point docw009. A booster would be a good idea. I was just not so keen on mixing different lithium cells brands of different specs. But that might not matter as the added cells are added in series to the rest, not mixing cells in parallel.
I could still do a booster (need only 16 cells for a 4S4P). I could keep the 14S4P I just made for my other eBike (a BBBSHD on an hybrid on 700C that I have in another city).
I thought the controller (max 15A and probably 7A continuous can take 36 or 48V).
Why do you think it's unlikely I will blow the controller ??
BTW I'm 160 pounds. Bike is on 20 inch wheels. Initial setup before overvolting was a 250W small geared hub.
I'm thinking that at 14S, I will probably get 50.4V @ 7A (or would it be more like 10A because of the overvolt)...
Matador
100 kW
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Docw009,
If I was to change for a programmable controlle...
Just out of curiosity, what do you think would be the max reasonable voltage/amperage I could push trough that small geared hub motor ?
I know it's a matter of hills, how long you pull up that hill, the weight and other parameters.... But there must be a point where things exponential. I mean, a point where if you go higher amps or higher volts, you really need to monitor the motor temp closely...
Other thing about the controller though, is I like how it's hidden in a small space inside the frame so it's sorta stealthy bike.
If I was to change for a programmable controlle...
Just out of curiosity, what do you think would be the max reasonable voltage/amperage I could push trough that small geared hub motor ?
I know it's a matter of hills, how long you pull up that hill, the weight and other parameters.... But there must be a point where things exponential. I mean, a point where if you go higher amps or higher volts, you really need to monitor the motor temp closely...
Other thing about the controller though, is I like how it's hidden in a small space inside the frame so it's sorta stealthy bike.
Matador
100 kW
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As promessed... Pics of my battery
View attachment 16View attachment 15
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View attachment 3
View attachment 16View attachment 15View attachment 13View attachment 10View attachment 7View attachment 5View attachment 3
Matador
100 kW
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Copper is 0.005" (0.127 mm) thick.
Battery build cost breakdown:
- 3 x LG 36V 4.4AH Hooverboard battery packs (for 60 salvaged new old stock LG MF1 cells) : 3 x 35.99 USD = 107.97 USD
Source: "NEW LG 36V 4.4AH BATTERY PACK 18650 EBIKE VAPE POWERWALL BATTERIES 20 CELLS BMS"
Seller Alarmhookup on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/usr/alarmhookup?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
You'd have to watch for when he will have some more. Last time I checked when they were available, price had gone up to 44.99 USD per 20 cell pack... These have LG MF1 cells (each 2150 mAh, 10A capable, 3.65V nominal .... manufacture date code from Sept and Oct 2016).
- 1 x 108pcs 18650 rewrap sleeves + carboard protective rings (only used 60) : 1 x 7.99 USD = 7.99 USD
Source: 108 pcs Pre-Cut 18650 Insulator and LIME GREEN PVC Heat Shrink Wrap Vape ebike https://www.ebay.com/itm/108-pcs-Pre-Cut-18650-Insulator-and-LIME-GREEN-PVC-Heat-Shrink-Wrap-Vape-ebike/132514747349?hash=item1eda7e93d5:g:50IAAOSwSrVaj4F7
- 3 x 2pcs 10 cells Honeycomb minimal bulkness 18650 holders (only used 5 outta 6 holders): 3 x 1.99 USD = 5.97 USD
Source: 2X 10 plastic holder 18650 battery holder Cylindrical cell bracket plastic case https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-10x-Cell-Plastic-18650-Battery-Spacer-Holder-Cylindrical-Cell-Bracket-Case/302687058301?hash=item46798df97d:g
hQAAOSwQ7havK0C
- K&S Precision Metal 0.005" (0.127mm) thick roll of 110 grade (aka C11000) min 99.9% pure Copper sheet 12 feet by 12 inch.
16.99$ from K&S Precision Metal (Item stock number : #6020) : 16.99 USD
Source: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&p=1390372&hilit=6020+copper#p1390372
- 1 x 14S 45A Balancing BMS: 1 x 15.96 USD = 15.96 USD
Source: 14S 51.8V 45A BMS PCB PCM for ebike electric bicycle 18650 Li-ion LIPO battery https://www.ebay.com/itm/14S-51-8V-45A-BMS-PCB-PCM-for-ebike-electric-bicycle-18650-Li-ion-LIPO-battery/112636580964?hash=item1a39a9d464:g:ywgAAOSwWfdbD7rq
1 x 1 Male and 1 female Amass XT60 connector (Bought 5 pair for 11.58 USD, so one pair = 2.32 USD
Source: 5x Amass XT60H XT60+ Male/Female Connector Plug for Battery ESC & Charge Lead https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Amass-XT60H-XT60-Male-Female-Connector-Plug-for-Battery-ESC-Charge-Lead/223129895688?hash=item33f3940308:g:AQsAAOSwo4pYg5BY
1 x 12 AWG 10 feet (5 ft red + 5 ft black) silicon wire = 5.50 USD (price have gone up since last year though...)
Source: 12 AWG 10 Feet Gauge Silicone Wire Flexible Stranded Cables for RC Black+Red ED https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-AWG-10-Feet-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Flexible-Stranded-Cables-for-RC-Black-Red-ED/112138929314?epid=1373853081&hash=item1a1c0044a2
1 x Battery gauge indicator (3S up to 15S Li-Ion) = 3.68 USD
Source : 12V 24V 36V 48V LCD Battery Capacity Tester Indicator car Lead-acid Lithium Cell https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V-48V-LCD-Battery-Capacity-Tester-Indicator-car-Lead-acid-Lithium-Cell/222293145050?hash=item33c1b435da:g:-woAAOSwXeJYD11M
1 x 2 meter (used only 1 meter or so) 14 mm Protective Wire Braided sleeve = 3.59 USD
Source: 3mm~100mm Black Tight Braided PET Expandable Sleeving Cable Wire Sheath lot https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-100mm-Black-Tight-Braided-PET-Expandable-Sleeving-Cable-Wire-Sheath-lot/192053564552?var=491892214796&hash=item2cb748d488:m:m-nHfjUcipq22tNrOsRQhLA
1 x 1 roll of 33meter x 50 mm wide Foxnovo High Temperature Heat Resistant Kapton Tape Polyimide Film Adhesive Tape (50mm*33m) = 10.99 USD
Source: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1QZY4M/ref=twister_B00N2QJ9PG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Total cost of battery : 181.97 USD. Now I just need to find padding, affix the batt meter and shrinkwrap.
This battery is made of 56 LG MF1 cells. My pack specs are:
14S 18650 LiNiMnCoO2 - 8.6Ah 51.1V nominal (min 38.5V, max 58.8V), max 40A load, 439.5 Wh. Std chrg rate 2.15A. Max chrg rate 8.6A
58.8V 2A Charger : (had to solder some XT60 to charger leads): 33.89 USD - Generic 58.8V 2A Electric Bike Lithium Battery Charger for 48V Lithium Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Electric-Lithium-Battery-Charger/dp/B071FBGG7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538240910&sr=8-1&keywords=Generic+58.8V+2A+Electric+Bike+Lithium+Battery+Charger+for+48V+Lithium+Battery+Pack
Matador
Battery build cost breakdown:
- 3 x LG 36V 4.4AH Hooverboard battery packs (for 60 salvaged new old stock LG MF1 cells) : 3 x 35.99 USD = 107.97 USD
Source: "NEW LG 36V 4.4AH BATTERY PACK 18650 EBIKE VAPE POWERWALL BATTERIES 20 CELLS BMS"
Seller Alarmhookup on eBay : https://www.ebay.com/usr/alarmhookup?_trksid=p2047675.l2559
You'd have to watch for when he will have some more. Last time I checked when they were available, price had gone up to 44.99 USD per 20 cell pack... These have LG MF1 cells (each 2150 mAh, 10A capable, 3.65V nominal .... manufacture date code from Sept and Oct 2016).
- 1 x 108pcs 18650 rewrap sleeves + carboard protective rings (only used 60) : 1 x 7.99 USD = 7.99 USD
Source: 108 pcs Pre-Cut 18650 Insulator and LIME GREEN PVC Heat Shrink Wrap Vape ebike https://www.ebay.com/itm/108-pcs-Pre-Cut-18650-Insulator-and-LIME-GREEN-PVC-Heat-Shrink-Wrap-Vape-ebike/132514747349?hash=item1eda7e93d5:g:50IAAOSwSrVaj4F7
- 3 x 2pcs 10 cells Honeycomb minimal bulkness 18650 holders (only used 5 outta 6 holders): 3 x 1.99 USD = 5.97 USD
Source: 2X 10 plastic holder 18650 battery holder Cylindrical cell bracket plastic case https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-10x-Cell-Plastic-18650-Battery-Spacer-Holder-Cylindrical-Cell-Bracket-Case/302687058301?hash=item46798df97d:g
hQAAOSwQ7havK0C- K&S Precision Metal 0.005" (0.127mm) thick roll of 110 grade (aka C11000) min 99.9% pure Copper sheet 12 feet by 12 inch.
16.99$ from K&S Precision Metal (Item stock number : #6020) : 16.99 USD
Source: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=89076&p=1390372&hilit=6020+copper#p1390372
- 1 x 14S 45A Balancing BMS: 1 x 15.96 USD = 15.96 USD
Source: 14S 51.8V 45A BMS PCB PCM for ebike electric bicycle 18650 Li-ion LIPO battery https://www.ebay.com/itm/14S-51-8V-45A-BMS-PCB-PCM-for-ebike-electric-bicycle-18650-Li-ion-LIPO-battery/112636580964?hash=item1a39a9d464:g:ywgAAOSwWfdbD7rq
1 x 1 Male and 1 female Amass XT60 connector (Bought 5 pair for 11.58 USD, so one pair = 2.32 USD
Source: 5x Amass XT60H XT60+ Male/Female Connector Plug for Battery ESC & Charge Lead https://www.ebay.com/itm/5x-Amass-XT60H-XT60-Male-Female-Connector-Plug-for-Battery-ESC-Charge-Lead/223129895688?hash=item33f3940308:g:AQsAAOSwo4pYg5BY
1 x 12 AWG 10 feet (5 ft red + 5 ft black) silicon wire = 5.50 USD (price have gone up since last year though...)
Source: 12 AWG 10 Feet Gauge Silicone Wire Flexible Stranded Cables for RC Black+Red ED https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-AWG-10-Feet-Gauge-Silicone-Wire-Flexible-Stranded-Cables-for-RC-Black-Red-ED/112138929314?epid=1373853081&hash=item1a1c0044a2
1 x Battery gauge indicator (3S up to 15S Li-Ion) = 3.68 USD
Source : 12V 24V 36V 48V LCD Battery Capacity Tester Indicator car Lead-acid Lithium Cell https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-24V-36V-48V-LCD-Battery-Capacity-Tester-Indicator-car-Lead-acid-Lithium-Cell/222293145050?hash=item33c1b435da:g:-woAAOSwXeJYD11M
1 x 2 meter (used only 1 meter or so) 14 mm Protective Wire Braided sleeve = 3.59 USD
Source: 3mm~100mm Black Tight Braided PET Expandable Sleeving Cable Wire Sheath lot https://www.ebay.com/itm/3mm-100mm-Black-Tight-Braided-PET-Expandable-Sleeving-Cable-Wire-Sheath-lot/192053564552?var=491892214796&hash=item2cb748d488:m:m-nHfjUcipq22tNrOsRQhLA
1 x 1 roll of 33meter x 50 mm wide Foxnovo High Temperature Heat Resistant Kapton Tape Polyimide Film Adhesive Tape (50mm*33m) = 10.99 USD
Source: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N1QZY4M/ref=twister_B00N2QJ9PG?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Total cost of battery : 181.97 USD. Now I just need to find padding, affix the batt meter and shrinkwrap.
This battery is made of 56 LG MF1 cells. My pack specs are:
14S 18650 LiNiMnCoO2 - 8.6Ah 51.1V nominal (min 38.5V, max 58.8V), max 40A load, 439.5 Wh. Std chrg rate 2.15A. Max chrg rate 8.6A
58.8V 2A Charger : (had to solder some XT60 to charger leads): 33.89 USD - Generic 58.8V 2A Electric Bike Lithium Battery Charger for 48V Lithium Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Electric-Lithium-Battery-Charger/dp/B071FBGG7S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538240910&sr=8-1&keywords=Generic+58.8V+2A+Electric+Bike+Lithium+Battery+Charger+for+48V+Lithium+Battery+Pack
Matador
Matador
100 kW
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,045
I noticed my ancheer eBike has been dropping the chains a lot lately. And the chain anoyingly got stuck between the chainring and bashguard. I had to use a tool to pry the chain out every time. This all happened after I crashed with the bike at around 25 km/h. I guess I bent something in the process of crashing (my wheel got stuck in a street car track and I crashed).
Luckily there wasn't not much visible damage to the bike, but I noticed a wobble in the crankshaft. There some free play in the spindle That's why my chain was falling off. So I dimantled the squared tapered bottom bracket to service it, which was retained by an adjustable cup and a locknut on one side (dissassemble with Park Tool HCW-5 for locknut and HCW-11 for notched adjustable cup) and a fixed cup on the other side (I used a crescent wrench for the fixed cup). Two set of caged bearing are holding the spindle between the races of each threaded cup.
I tightned everything a bit more and now the wobble is gone. I also cleaned everything and generously regreased the bearings with some Park Tool grease (the all purpose one). Here are more pictures to document this process. Bearings are a quarter inch size. I'm thinking I might eventually change for a cartridge bottom bracket in the futur. The chinese industry went cheap on this one and used cheap cups, bearings and spindle. The bearing barely had any grease on them !!! Glad I'm servicing these. Thightening the adjustable cup fixed the wobble. No more chain drops now...
Matador
Here's some pics:
View attachment 12
View attachment 9
View attachment 7View attachment 6
View attachment 4
Luckily there wasn't not much visible damage to the bike, but I noticed a wobble in the crankshaft. There some free play in the spindle That's why my chain was falling off. So I dimantled the squared tapered bottom bracket to service it, which was retained by an adjustable cup and a locknut on one side (dissassemble with Park Tool HCW-5 for locknut and HCW-11 for notched adjustable cup) and a fixed cup on the other side (I used a crescent wrench for the fixed cup). Two set of caged bearing are holding the spindle between the races of each threaded cup.
I tightned everything a bit more and now the wobble is gone. I also cleaned everything and generously regreased the bearings with some Park Tool grease (the all purpose one). Here are more pictures to document this process. Bearings are a quarter inch size. I'm thinking I might eventually change for a cartridge bottom bracket in the futur. The chinese industry went cheap on this one and used cheap cups, bearings and spindle. The bearing barely had any grease on them !!! Glad I'm servicing these. Thightening the adjustable cup fixed the wobble. No more chain drops now...
Matador
Here's some pics:
View attachment 12View attachment 9View attachment 7View attachment 6View attachment 4
Matador
100 kW
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,045
180 Buck for an LG-Chem 52V 14S 8.6Ah 440Wh max:40A battery is hard to beat IMHO.
Now a bit of padding and I should be able to test my Overvolting project in real life conditions....
Battery is holding charge at 58.9V right now (my DMM meter is always reading 0.1V more ...)
Hope my controller doesn't pop with magic blue smoke, or I won't have a ride for the rest of the season...
Matador
Now a bit of padding and I should be able to test my Overvolting project in real life conditions....
Battery is holding charge at 58.9V right now (my DMM meter is always reading 0.1V more ...)
Hope my controller doesn't pop with magic blue smoke, or I won't have a ride for the rest of the season...
Matador
That Battery is a beast I think a waterproof touring case would probably be the best option for mounting it for now. If you mount it further back then mine then you can get the larger model and with some additional work put in a false floor to still have some storage space.
Regreasing everything is on my list for the winter months. Both the spindle as well as the rear motor.
Speaking about the rear motor, one thing you should be aware of is the nylon gear in it. They can get chewed up pretty good at 36V. Your overclocking is probably going to add some wear and tear. They are relatively easy to repair, but I know some people have gone as far as to get replacements milled out of brass.
Keep up the picks! I am enjoying seeing some Ancheer owners making the most out of their investment.
I think a waterproof touring case would probably be the best option for mounting it for now. If you mount it further back then mine then you can get the larger model and with some additional work put in a false floor to still have some storage space.Regreasing everything is on my list for the winter months. Both the spindle as well as the rear motor.
Speaking about the rear motor, one thing you should be aware of is the nylon gear in it. They can get chewed up pretty good at 36V. Your overclocking is probably going to add some wear and tear. They are relatively easy to repair, but I know some people have gone as far as to get replacements milled out of brass.
Keep up the picks! I am enjoying seeing some Ancheer owners making the most out of their investment.
Matador
100 kW
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- Jun 29, 2016
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Finished homemade 14S4P Battery (439.5 Wh 52V 8.6Ah LG MF1 cells):
View attachment 8
View attachment 2View attachment 1
Matador
View attachment 8View attachment 2View attachment 1Matador
Matador
100 kW
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OMG, I just tryied my overvolted bike for about 20 km.
I have a XT-60 for both the original 10S4P (36V) battery and my new custom made 14S4P (52V) battery.
I tried both battery on the same long strip of riverside bike lane tonight. Both batteries fresh off the charger.
With the original 36V (charged full to 42V), I topped out at 26-27 km/h (16.2-16.8 mph) throttle only GPS speed.
With my 52V battery (charged full to 58.8V), I topped out a 37 km/h (23.0 mph). I had the custom battery in my backpack.
Motor barely warm (maybe 40-45°C felt by hand on the metal hub casing).
The thing is faasst !!!! 37 km/h (23.0 mph) on the GPS ! That rocks! Especially considering this is on 20 inch wheels !
Kept the 36V display and that was no problem.
The beeper worked but with a higher pitch tone (actually sounds better).
The front headlight did burn though when I connected my battery and it sparked at the connected. Unfortunatly the front light switch was switchted on and that killed the led (or the small printed circuit in the light casing that supplies the LED).
That bike feels like it has a new life now... Wow !
Honestly, I think I would be happy even with 13S aka 48V ! But 52V rock the thing !!!
My 52V battery is now sitting at 61% (around 52.5V).
Battery is completly cold to the touch.
Setup now feels like 400W continuous (750W peak) rather than 250W (500W peak)
Matador
I have a XT-60 for both the original 10S4P (36V) battery and my new custom made 14S4P (52V) battery.
I tried both battery on the same long strip of riverside bike lane tonight. Both batteries fresh off the charger.
With the original 36V (charged full to 42V), I topped out at 26-27 km/h (16.2-16.8 mph) throttle only GPS speed.
With my 52V battery (charged full to 58.8V), I topped out a 37 km/h (23.0 mph). I had the custom battery in my backpack.
Motor barely warm (maybe 40-45°C felt by hand on the metal hub casing).
The thing is faasst !!!! 37 km/h (23.0 mph) on the GPS ! That rocks! Especially considering this is on 20 inch wheels !
Kept the 36V display and that was no problem.
The beeper worked but with a higher pitch tone (actually sounds better).
The front headlight did burn though when I connected my battery and it sparked at the connected. Unfortunatly the front light switch was switchted on and that killed the led (or the small printed circuit in the light casing that supplies the LED).
That bike feels like it has a new life now... Wow !
Honestly, I think I would be happy even with 13S aka 48V ! But 52V rock the thing !!!
My 52V battery is now sitting at 61% (around 52.5V).
Battery is completly cold to the touch.
Setup now feels like 400W continuous (750W peak) rather than 250W (500W peak)
Matador
Matador
100 kW
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,045
From looking at the first video that I link in the start of this thread about the motor, I am now convinced that the moter uses three 28 teeth planetary gear. The largest gear in the housing has 74 teeth and the centrat gear has 18 teeth.
So in theory, this geared motor has a ratio of 74/18 = 4.1 to 1.
At a nominal 36V, the bike does 27 km/h, which is 280 wheel RPM of 280... Meaning the motor really spins at 1150 RPM.
At my nominal 52V, the bike does 37 km/h, which is 386 wheel RPM... Meaning the motor really spins at 1600 RPM.
I'm 7.5A continuous and 15A peak... Should be safe. But I'm thinking I could peanut butter the nylon planetary gears. Hence my interest for buying new spare planetary gears... Maybe even steel gears of brass gears.
A guy burnt his 250W moter using 14S battery, but running 35Amps !!! Here's his result : https://etrike.wordpress.com/2013/05/12/my-bafang-lost-its-teeth/
And here's his initial story : https://etrike.wordpress.com/2012/08/09/my-bafang-is-up-for-a-little-overhaul/
https://etrike.wordpress.com/2013/04/21/oil-cooling-a-bafang-swxh-geared-hub-motor/
So in theory, this geared motor has a ratio of 74/18 = 4.1 to 1.
At a nominal 36V, the bike does 27 km/h, which is 280 wheel RPM of 280... Meaning the motor really spins at 1150 RPM.
At my nominal 52V, the bike does 37 km/h, which is 386 wheel RPM... Meaning the motor really spins at 1600 RPM.
I'm 7.5A continuous and 15A peak... Should be safe. But I'm thinking I could peanut butter the nylon planetary gears. Hence my interest for buying new spare planetary gears... Maybe even steel gears of brass gears.
A guy burnt his 250W moter using 14S battery, but running 35Amps !!! Here's his result : https://etrike.wordpress.com/2013/05/12/my-bafang-lost-its-teeth/
And here's his initial story : https://etrike.wordpress.com/2012/08/09/my-bafang-is-up-for-a-little-overhaul/
https://etrike.wordpress.com/2013/04/21/oil-cooling-a-bafang-swxh-geared-hub-motor/
Matador
100 kW
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2016
- Messages
- 1,045
I changed my erBike front light to this https://www.amazon.com/Greenergia-High-Brightness-Headlight-Universal-Spotlight/dp/B07C7G5QWR/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538862402&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=High-Brightness%2B1600%2BLumen%2BElectric%2BVehicle%2BHeadlight%2BWater%2BProof%2B36V%2B48V%2B60V%2BUniversal%2BLED%2BSpotlight%2BHeadlight%2Bwith%2BSwitch&th=1
The Original Ancheer front light was meant for 36 V (42max) and burnt at 58.8V...
Had to resolder wires to original ancheer connector (and wire colors did not match) but it works perfect. The cool thing is this lights and horn works up to 60V nominal. (The capacitor inside is a 100V and there is R8110 IC chip). The light make a really nice spot that you can direct
Went for a ride with the homemade 52V battery I made.
Did 24.1 km (according to google).
Went from 58.8V (4.20V / cell) to 49.0V (3.50V/cell) . Took 62 minutes (had a bunch of light to stop at and the bicycle lanes have lots of turns and bumbs).
But still, that's a 23 km/h average. Gotta say I wasn't full throttle all the time as lots of track were wet today... Still quite happy with my battery !!
Just ordered another one of this light for my BBSHD bike that's currently in another city...
Matador
The Original Ancheer front light was meant for 36 V (42max) and burnt at 58.8V...
Had to resolder wires to original ancheer connector (and wire colors did not match) but it works perfect. The cool thing is this lights and horn works up to 60V nominal. (The capacitor inside is a 100V and there is R8110 IC chip). The light make a really nice spot that you can direct
Went for a ride with the homemade 52V battery I made.
Did 24.1 km (according to google).
Went from 58.8V (4.20V / cell) to 49.0V (3.50V/cell) . Took 62 minutes (had a bunch of light to stop at and the bicycle lanes have lots of turns and bumbs).
But still, that's a 23 km/h average. Gotta say I wasn't full throttle all the time as lots of track were wet today... Still quite happy with my battery !!
Just ordered another one of this light for my BBSHD bike that's currently in another city...
Matador
Marc S.
100 W
Matador said:
I didn't burn my SWXH. Just the Nylon planetary gears gave-up.
It got steel planetary gears and ran quite some time longer with the 35A controller and later served as my back-up motor.
Matador
100 kW
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- Jun 29, 2016
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- 1,045
Marc S. said:
Thanks for this contributions on our mods, it was very instructive. I'd love to do the same kind of thing with metal gears. In your extensive experience overhauling these small hub, where do you think is the sweetspot between speed and reliability for comuting perposes ? 72V 20A ??
Not for overclocking, but for reference. The Ancheer online shop is selling replacement batteries now. And they are actually on discount for the next few days..
Marc S.
100 W
Matador said:
No, a 72V battery and 20A controller (1,600W) is a bit too much for the smaller hub motors.
The small '250W' geared hubs (like the Bafang SWXH) should run reliably up to 1,000W and the bigger '500W' geared hubs (Bafang BPM, Bafang CST, eZee, ect) run reliably up to 2,000W. Anything higher will require steel planetary gears in the long run.
It also seems better, to use a faster motor (like a 20" hub motor in a 26" wheel) and stick to lower voltage batteries (like 15s), when reliability is a concern.
Matador
100 kW
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Man I dunno If it's because of my copper connection, but my battery I built for my ancheer has pretty good low internal resistance for this kind of mid-end cells.
I charged it up to 100% (58.8V, measured with DVM). But shoot, It was raining for days. Finally though I should discharge to 3.92V per cell if the battery was gonna stay unused (to minimize long term).
So I discharged it using my hair dryier
, which normally pumps out 1600W at 125V AC.Mesured only 1.60 V voltage sag under 12.8A (aka around 720-730W) load (56.9-->55.3V and 56.1 -->54.5V).
Not bad for only a 4P pack of affordable Samsung MF1... Basically this means my 14S4P pack has a 125 mOhm DC internal resistance (including all connection between cells and BMS). Overall, that means when accounting for added BMS and metal connection it comes down to 36 mOhm DCIR per cell on average (when measured at 92% SOC and 87% SOC).
I liiiike it ! Now if I do such a soldering job with my sony VTC4, that will be killer !
What do you guys think of the Samsung 40T (4000mAh, 30A Yay!) ? Thinking to put some in my low range higly portable 7S1P "small fish plate" electric skateboard... but upvolting to 10S (the original ESC will take it no problem, I already even tryed pumping 53.7V in it and it worked (no load)).
Matador
What a fantastic project and record of what you done.
I have only just bought an Ancheer bike and it looks as if they are still using the same controller etc.
Just wondering if as well has having more speed you also get more pulling power to get you up hills. I have a 26" wheel 250W hub, 36V 8AH battery Ancheer and looking to put a 48V battery on it.
Rgards
Keith
I have only just bought an Ancheer bike and it looks as if they are still using the same controller etc.
Just wondering if as well has having more speed you also get more pulling power to get you up hills. I have a 26" wheel 250W hub, 36V 8AH battery Ancheer and looking to put a 48V battery on it.
Rgards
Keith
