Peugeot - E-Speriment!!!

Patriot

10 kW
Joined
Aug 7, 2008
Messages
511
OK, HERE GOES!!!

I have no idea what I'm doing. In fact, I think I've lost it.

I have spent the last couple of days trying to figure out where to start a thread for this project. Then it dawned on me. I have no idea what I'm doing. This piece of old school steel started off as a Peugot roadie from the mid 70's. I think it's a UO-8 that has some nice shiney Mafac Racer brakes. I still have all the old parts, but the bits are virtually junk. The hubs and rims are good, but the rims are chrome steel, and weigh more than the tracks of an M-1 Abrams. They also don't work well when wet.

First, we started with an old 1970's Peugot road Bike.

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All stripped, and the chrome forks polished. :D

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Got some parts.

A French threaded BB pieced together from various parts.

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A cheap but bombproof steel ringed triple crank for long hills.

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And the original old set of Mafac Racer center-pull brakes.

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Quick update:

Well, the frame is painted and first clear coats applied. I need to add decals now. Then, final clear coating. I painted the stem too. The original alloy finish was shot, so I smoothed it out, and painted it. The old alloy wouldn't polish worth a darn.

I pulled the bars off my old Specialized MTB. I think I may use them.
Anyway, here's the latest progress.

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Yes, it's Fire Engine Red, with some cosmic sparkle.

If they don't see me comin', they really are BLIND!!!
 
Built my first wheel.

Used the old Normandy hub, some new DT Champion 15ga spokes, brass nips, and a cheap Alex DM18 heavy duty rim. Definitely not the lightest, but this thing is built for heavy duty use.

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I just got done clear coating with the new decals. The frame is now complete, and ready for assembly. :)

If you'll notice, there is a very soft blueish hue in the red. That's from a coat of Gem Sapphire I added just prior to clear coating.

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I didn't like the original headtube decal, because it has a red background. So, I made my own custom with a lion facing to the left, instead of the right. I found it on the internet. I think it was used on some limitted bike, or maybe even an old car.
 
Paint looks better than the original! Is that Reynolds 531 steel? If it is, U got a winner!
otherDoc
 
docnjoj said:
Paint looks better than the original! Is that Reynolds 531 steel? If it is, U got a winner!

The UX-10 was the model built with Reynolds tubing, Nervex lugs and a Stronglight 93 cotterless alloy crank.
The UO-8 had stamped dropouts instead of forged and carbon steel tubing.
They retailed for $87.50 during the last bike boom.
 
Yup, it's a cheap frame. But, it allowed me to work on my paint skills. Plus, it's VERY strong, which is what I want for this beast. It'll have a 5303 rear hub, and I want to go with a Ping battery. More pics to come. What is actually decent on this bike, is the Mafac brakes, which I will use, and the Normany hubs. Very nice stuff for a cheap bike. An equivalent bike today would be about $400 or more, brand new.
 
Movin' right along.

As you can see, I have installed a set of chrome plated headlights. I know this sounds odd, but they are a set of commercial grade chrome plated drain pipes. I got them for free from work. Size MR11 halogen bulbs fit perfectly into these pipes with the collars screwed on. I also soldered some caps on the backs. They're heavier than aluminum light bodies, but they will never rust, and they are easy to drill through to run wires. Also, they will never melt. Plus, I love the real CHROME. :D

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Here's my computer. I like the fact that it has a thermometer, which helps alot for commuting in cold weather. Nice to know how frozen I am.

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I plan on installing 2x20w headlights. Possibly one 10deg, and one 30deg. Not sure yet. Maybe just two 30deg floods. The lights will be powered off a small 100w 48v-12v dc converter, which will be powered off the main battery.

IT'S ALIVE!!!

Looks like Johnny-5 with wheels!!! :D

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As you can see, I'm using some heavy duty bolts for the rack. It needs to securelt hold 40lbs of weight. I figure 30lbs for the controller/battery, and another 10-20lbs for my lunch, and other goods when shopping.

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I just placed my order for a Crystalyte 5303 motor, and a 100a Kelly Regenerative braking controller. I also have most of the parts I need for the bike, except a good set of commuter tires.
 
Absolutely awesome job mate looks better than when it rolled out of the factory imo ;)

My brother dropped by yesterday with a couple of donor bikes for me and this old crank-->

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Is solid aluminum with stainless steel gears, would suit your Peugot down to a tea i thought :) (polished and prettied up of course)

Look forward to seeing the finalized build when you have the motor etc fitted...

Well done :)

Kim
 
AussieJester said:
Absolutely awesome job mate looks better than when it rolled out of the factory imo ;)

My brother dropped by yesterday with a couple of donor bikes for me and this old crank-->

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Is solid aluminum with stainless steel gears, would suit your Peugot down to a tea i thought :) (polished and prettied up of course)

Look forward to seeing the finalized build when you have the motor etc fitted...

Well done :)

Kim

That crank is swaged to the spider/chainguard. It's not forged in one piece like the high end stuff.
IIRC, those chainrings are riveted into it. The oxidation visible in the pic would suggest they're not stainless.
It's a pretty and functional design but not of the same era. It was common on medium-low end bikes of the eighties.
The UO-8 came with cottered chromed steel Stronglight cranks.

I found it amazing that the OP was able to get new French threaded BB cups at all.
He's lucky it's not Swiss.

I have a period correct French Stronglight cotterless forged alloy crank with an obsolete (122mm) BCD.
I even have a proper sized and threaded removal tool. . . Good luck finding those.

The brake levers look like they're intended for V-brakes. (?)
If so, they won't have enough cable travel for the center-pull calipers and how'd you get a normal stem into a French steerer tube?

Does the bike in fact have classic French threading and tube sizes or is it a later one possibly built in Canada or Asia?
If so, consider yourself lucky.
 
Zoot Katz said:
The oxidation visible in the pic would suggest they're not stainless.


Ahhh kk..fair nuff.. its definitely not rust however feels to be a combination of grease and dirt (as it wipes off) tiz defiantly stainless anywayz ;)
 
AussieJester said:
Zoot Katz said:
The oxidation visible in the pic would suggest they're not stainless.


Ahhh kk..fair nuff.. its definitely not rust however feels to be a combination of grease and dirt (as it wipes off) tiz defiantly stainless anywayz ;)

Strange. Few bike parts, other than spokes, are stainless steel. I think Pashley (possibly others too) used SS for rims at one time.
 
Zoot Katz said:
That crank is swaged to the spider/chainguard. It's not forged in one piece like the high end stuff.
IIRC, those chainrings are riveted into it. The oxidation visible in the pic would suggest they're not stainless.
It's a pretty and functional design but not of the same era. It was common on medium-low end bikes of the eighties.
The UO-8 came with cottered chromed steel Stronglight cranks.

I found it amazing that the OP was able to get new French threaded BB cups at all.
He's lucky it's not Swiss.

I have a period correct French Stronglight cotterless forged alloy crank with an obsolete (122mm) BCD.
I even have a proper sized and threaded removal tool. . . Good luck finding those.

The brake levers look like they're intended for V-brakes. (?)
If so, they won't have enough cable travel for the center-pull calipers and how'd you get a normal stem into a French steerer tube?

Does the bike in fact have classic French threading and tube sizes or is it a later one possibly built in Canada or Asia?
If so, consider yourself lucky.


Ohhhh, it's original French alright. Right down to the crazy chromed seatpost with a shim.

Yes, the original crank is still sitting in the box of misc. parts left over from tearing it down. As you know, the original BB spindle is about 155mm long, and cottered, with a Stronglight chromed steel crankset. The problem with me using the original crank, is I really wanted a modern 8s FlatBar road bike with a 52-42-30t triple, because I need the low end granny gears for long hills. If the batteries ever quit, I don't care if you're Jan Ullrich, you're not mashing an 80lbs bike up the hills in Western Washington with that old 42t crankset.

I found those BB cups at an online NOS parts dealer. Beautiful chromed steel cups. They are not the original French, they are Japanese Sakae cups, with thicker sidewalls. Those thicker French threaded Sakae cups allowed me to find a modern 115mm square taper spindle with a 52mm bearing race spacing, made by Specialized (vs the original 55mm spacing). I bought the spindle from the Rivendell website. :mrgreen:

Standard caged bearings are then used. It took alot of digging and research, but those parts are out there. Not common, but they do exist, and can be had for a reasonable price.

As for the stem?

hehe, it's the original. The finish was pretty tarnished, and wouldn't polish clean, so I painted it to match the bike. I managed to get the modern MTB bars in them, with very little effort (spreading), as not to damage the clamp.

And the new shifters/brake levers are an interesting set. I got these for a specific reason. They have a little block spacer inside which allows you to shift the brake cable from use as either an MTB application for disc/V-brakes, or switch it road caliper/center-pull type brakes with more travel for better modulation. :mrgreen:

Trust me, I've been painting and building bikes for years now, and this is one hobby I've managed to get a handle on. You'd be amazed at how you can configure things with a little know how. It can be quite the challenge, but alot of fun, none the less.

This particular project has just about every type of Bike in one machine. FB Road bike, MTB, Commuter, Vintage, Town Bike, and E-bike all rolled into one.

Gotta love Bikes, eh?
 
It's a goood lookin build so far. Next pics must be of the motor...

I assume you're using 700's? Big wheels, a 5303, a 100a Kelly... You just haven't mentioned your voltage choice. I hope it's a big number... like 84. :mrgreen:

And if you've had any experience with high-current Clyte controllers at high voltages, you'll really love the Kellys. They're gentler creatures. They handle stall torque much better, meaning that they're not going to wheelie and flip you off the bike if you give it more than a hair of throttle at stall. With both a 65a v1 and a 50a v2 Clyte controller I had some bad wheelie problems, even after I moved my CG forward by mounting my batteries near the headtube. It's an important concern for you, with a high CG and your batts over your rear wheel. The good news is that with the Kelly it won't try to wheelie unless you give it near full throttle under 15mph, and you can always control that in software.

What will you be doing for a torque arm? You may not think you need one, but it's much easier to consider it now rather than after a motor's torn up your pretty red paintjob. :oops:
 
Actually, compared to your voltage suggestion, I'll be going whimpy. I already ordered the 48v/100a Kelly regen controller.

My primary reason for doing so, is because Ping makes a 48v/20ah battery, which I have been wanting. The chart on the 5303 shows it will cruise close to 30mph with a continuous 20a at 48v, so that will be good enough for me to get to work at a decent speed.

Also, I found the perfect little 48v-12v/3.3v/12v DC-DC converter for all my accessories. I plan on powering two 20w headlights, and my rear LED tail light with the converter. Maybe even my cyclocomputer, so I never have to change out batteries again. You pick up these little gems for only $30 shipped at http://www.project-parts.com.

That's alot cheaper than having to buy a whole seperate Lithium battery pack for a headlight system that will only give me a couple hours of run time. These were originally very expensive converters, and are designed to stay engergized all the time, and last for years with no maintenance.

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And yes, I've seen some aftermarket torque arms, but have wondered about whether or not I'll need one. It's an old heavy duty steel frame, so I have to wonder if it really needs it. I'm thinking I'll probably get one. I also need to find one that will fit this older frame. It has the older dropout angle.

Here's the controller I ordered.

KEB48221 100A 48V 2.2KW /Regen

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It makes me cry a little inside whenever someone decides to run a 5-series below 60v. Such a waste...

In most cases, a 4-series at 72v is more powerful than a 5-series at 48v. Pretty much half of that motor's mass is deadweight when compared to, say, a 408 at 72v. Though, to be fair, you could always use a higher voltage later, but... with a 48v controller...

 
^^ I've actually considered transferring this controller to my wifes bike for a future ebike conversion with a smaller motor for hers, and buy a new controller for mine. This is my first build, soI'm trying not to go too crazy with it. I just want it reliable, and well built without the risk of major loss of investment if any mistakes are made. Hopefully, I have all my bases covered.

Here's some more progress. I finally got the motor in the mail. I laced it up, and dished last night. Man, what a pain. If I wasn't so hell bent on using my own rim to match, I would've bought one prebuilt.

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If you look carefully, you'll notice I had to add a few metric washers to the inside of the axle to get enough space for the dropouts without rubbing the 8s Sunrace freewheel.

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Thats MUCH better lookin than the original. I have one that i rescued from the town dump under my deck, and it looks weak compared! Great job!
otherDoc
 
Nice job buddy...apologies if i missed it previously, but what is the 'black tube' under the main top tube of the frame (the rag is wrapped around it)

How far away before the inaugural test run?
 
AussieJester said:
Nice job buddy...apologies if i missed it previously, but what is the 'black tube' under the main top tube of the frame (the rag is wrapped around it)

That's not a rag. It's a ghetto top-tube cozy. Looks like it's also protecting the frame pump from scratches.
 
Patriot said:
. . .
If you look carefully, you'll notice I had to add a few metric washers to the inside of the axle to get enough space for the dropouts without rubbing the 8s Sunrace freewheel.
Looks like it's coming together for you.
Today, after three days calling around for schedule 80 stainless to make a spacer and fruitlessly searching for flat washers at all the usual suspects, I found suitable washers right under my nose - squashed M14 lock washers. The freehweel is mounted so now I can start dishing, tensioning and truing the wheel once, or twice, again.
 
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