Powabyke Beginners Questions

[andipowa]

Introducing myself as new to electric bikes and new to this forum..... but eager to learn!! I wonder if anybody can answer what I suspect are basic technical questions? I have just bought a secondhand Powabyke Euro which has 5 gears and runs off 3 x 12v/14Ah SLA batteries (now new), all this raw power :lol: to help me with the 9 mile commute to and from work (UK - combination of flat & hilly), the bike is standard..... and a little slow!!

Q1. I have read on the forum that the controller may have a looping wire connected that if removed increases my motor?controller? output from 250w to 500w. Is this correct and is there any benefit of doing this on a standard build? Does this mean the controller supplies greater amps to the motor? (my confusion probably comes from lack of understanding)

Q2. Again the forum suggests that 48v means increased speed, a guy called Bernie White at http://www.g4hjw.metahusky.net/ (powabyke electrical link at bottom of page) suggests this may take the speed up to 17.2 mph. Will my current controller take the 48v, do I need to vent the hub to reduce heat?

Q3. Other forum talk suggests a controller change to 36 - 48v deliverying 20amps, again I assume this will drive the hub a little harder but also drain the batteries faster. Can new controllers be linked to the crank and wheel sensors on a Powabyke?

Thanks in advance

 

[NickF23]

Introducing myself as new to electric bikes and new to this forum..... but eager to learn!! I wonder if anybody can answer what I suspect are basic technical questions? I have just bought a secondhand Powabyke Euro which has 5 gears and runs off 3 x 12v/14Ah SLA batteries (now new), all this raw power :lol: to help me with the 9 mile commute to and from work (UK - combination of flat & hilly), the bike is standard..... and a little slow!!

I once had one of these bikes its slow and an old design but can be made a bit more fun if you hack it 8)

Q1. I have read on the forum that the controller may have a looping wire connected that if removed increases my motor?controller? output from 250w to 500w. Is this correct and is there any benefit of doing this on a standard build? Does this mean the controller supplies greater amps to the motor? (my confusion probably comes from lack of understanding)

Not heard of this wire, the motor will draw up to 700 watts at low speeds but tops out at under 200 watts at 15mph

Q2. Again the forum suggests that 48v means increased speed, a guy called Bernie White at http://www.g4hjw.metahusky.net/ (powabyke electrical link at bottom of page) suggests this may take the speed up to 17.2 mph. Will my current controller take the 48v, do I need to vent the hub to reduce heat?



Q3. Other forum talk suggests a controller change to 36 - 48v deliverying 20amps, again I assume this will drive the hub a little harder but also drain the batteries faster. Can new controllers be linked to the crank and wheel sensors on a Powabyke?

The existing controller is 20 amps. You can run it at 48 volt and the controller will probably handle it you won't need extra cooling as the current is limited. If you get another controller above 20 amps then yes you'll need cooling for more info see http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=979&hilit=powabyke also search for powabyke on this site.

Please note its not really designed as a high power bike! Have fun 8)





Thanks in advance

 

[andipowa]

Thanks for all of the information and links to other discussions. I have two spare SLA batteries so intend trying the 48v option to see if it will move a little quicker but appreciate that it will never be a 1/4 mile contender!!

Should I do anything to the hub (clean/re-grease) or controller (vent/cool) before applying the 48v or is everything fairly safe as current limited system?

 

[NickF23]

It possibley won't get hot enough but Exposing the controller is a good idea while doing the test and just to see if it gets hot. Venting the controller sounds good but watch out for water/condensation

 

[andipowa]

Thanks again.

Branching off slightly, if I wired another 12v battery in parallel to one of the other batteries (12v x 3) it has been explained to me that I still get 36v overall but I will have more Ah available to the controller/motor and so would potentially increase my overall distance and increase average speed (not so slow uphill). Will the controller cope with this?

I also have a 6v SLA battery that is rated at 12Ah, would this be a safer option for the controller/hub or would it just destroy the 6v battery - the other three are 12v 14Ah SLA's - connecting the 6v in series would take me to 42v.

Apologies for asking what are probably daft questions, just trying to weigh up all options.

 

[Drunkskunk]

Thanks again.

Branching off slightly, if I wired another 12v battery in parallel to one of the other batteries (12v x 3) it has been explained to me that I still get 36v overall but I will have more Ah available to the controller/motor and so would potentially increase my overall distance and increase average speed (not so slow uphill). Will the controller cope with this?

I also have a 6v SLA battery that is rated at 12Ah, would this be a safer option for the controller/hub or would it just destroy the 6v battery - the other three are 12v 14Ah SLA's - connecting the 6v in series would take me to 42v.

Apologies for asking what are probably daft questions, just trying to weigh up all options.

hooking the 1 12v in parallel will only serve to unbalance the pack. you won't get any extra power because the other two batteries in series will only have the same amps available.


the Powabykes used a brushed motor, and can't take overvolting as well as a brushless motor. Understand overvolting has risks. it may burn out. I would start with the 6volt battery, and try the bike at 42 volts. if no smoke escapes, then consider pushing it to 48 volts.

 

[NickF23]

the Powabykes used a brushed motor, and can't take overvolting as well as a brushless motor

True in general, but due to the way its setup, the controller holds in at 20 amps at the bottom end, so you just get the extra 5mph top end without much improvement in acceleration or current draw. In addition to the 48 volt mod I remember I once added some extra copper to the shunt giving it about 40 amps, then it really does fly and the motor will overheat without extra cooling.

 

[Andrew36]

Hi I've actually been testing a powabyke at 48 volts and have found no problems with over heating of the motor at all. Am using an alternative 250 watt controller bought from ebay top speed is 29.6 mph also not having any issues with carrying the extra battery
The controller has a speed limiter so this can be used on longer journeys
will let you know the bikes range in next post.

 

[Andrew36]

Oh to prove my point I will be pushing this powabyke motor to destruction point as I'm going to bring the voltage up to 60 volts, it's good to have spares is'nt it

 

[parabellum]

The only thing you will push to destruction is your controller, there is no limit to the motor, only overheating. Just tell us what you want!

 

[Andrew36]

Actually I do know what I'm doing my controller is rated up to 72 volts
what I want people to know is that a powabyke motor will not over heat at 48 volts
and performs much better than the commercially instituted 36volts

I don't want anything I just want to enlighten people with the true faqs

thanks

 

[parabellum]

That is cool. What kind of caps and fets do you have in your controller? Is it infineon?