I like the aluminum angle heat spreader. I considered doing the same thing on mine but did sort of an external version that attaches to my frame.
PowerVelocity controller review
- Thread starter ElectricGod
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Powervelocity.com
100 kW
I think I got the original idea of using the aluminum angle from you Mr. Fechter and suggested that to the OP. I never got to implementing it but ElectricGod did. The idea of making the whole frame the heatsink is even more appealing but that doesn't work on all frames.
fechter said:
ElectricGod
10 MW
madin88 said:
I change out the phase and battery wires on all the 12 fet controllers...new or old version.
ElectricGod
10 MW
fechter said:
How? Did you file off the fins to make the head spreader side of the controller flat? I guess an external bracket mounted to the heat spreader screws would do the trick too.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Powervelocity.com said:
Vadym...
I suppose if you could match the frame tube shape with some kind of aluminum block, then you could mount the controller direct to the frame as a heat sink. Water bottle bolt holes might be a good place to mount.
Matching to the frame tube would be specific to each frame model, and on hydroformed frames (and many curved frames) specific to the exact location on the frame it is mounted on. For some of the round-tube frames that use "standard" tube sizes, a few different mounts could be made, but there are several diameters used for those tubes.
Makes it impractical to do a production run of such mounts for the general consumer. :/
If they were being built for a run of a specific frame / bike, that'd be different.
If you don't worry about surface-area of direct contact for best thermal transfer, I suppose a single wide (large diameter) curve could be made, so it would sort of cradle most tubes, and then use thermal transfer pads to help fill in the gaps on all the frames they dont' match curves of.
Makes it impractical to do a production run of such mounts for the general consumer. :/
If they were being built for a run of a specific frame / bike, that'd be different.
If you don't worry about surface-area of direct contact for best thermal transfer, I suppose a single wide (large diameter) curve could be made, so it would sort of cradle most tubes, and then use thermal transfer pads to help fill in the gaps on all the frames they dont' match curves of.
ElectricGod
10 MW
I received the 4 wire milliohm meter today. There was no doubt in my mind that it was going to outperform the 2 wire meter. I zeroed the meter and then measured a random precision shunt and it was pretty close to dead on. That was exactly what I expected.
People think I was stupid for buying the 2 wire meter. They completely missed the reason why I bought it. So anyway...
I didn't buy the 2 wire meter expecting it to have the precision of a 4 wire meter. I was never under that expectation. I just wanted to see if it was "good enough". Why buy a $100 meter when a $40 one can do what you need? Not everyone needs to measure down to 1 or 2 milli ohms. Lots of folks don't even need to measure down to 1 ohm. For people needing better than 1 ohm and down to .03 ohms, well the $40 MESR-100 with the factory test leads will do just fine for them. Once I have the Kelvin clips that will make it a bit better than it is now. I think .01 ohms will be doable reliably. The crappy alligator clips it came with are not exactly spectacular. So depending on what you are looking for, It may very well be "good enough". It just depends on what you need. It definitely measures resistance in or out of a capacitor so that's proof that while it may have been built for use on capacitors, it also serves other low ohm uses equally well. With the factory alligator clips, I wouldn't rely on it for measurements lower than about .03 ohms. We will see about using Kelvin clips. I'm sure they will help in getting better results.
So then...like I've said all along...the results will be the results and here you go! I used the same shunt on both meters. Of course the 4 wire meter was close to dead on, that was never in doubt or anything I ever questioned.
I will label 10 AOT290's 1 to 10 for this test. I'll arbitrarily pick 10 mosfets from my "stock".
1. The first test will be to bias the AOT290's to 10 volts on their gates and measure Rds with both the 2 wire and 4 wire meters and the newest component tester which measures Rds.
2. For the second test, I'll measure a resistor to put in series with source to drain and measure voltage drop across the mosfet and the resistor. The gate will still be biased at 10 volts. I'll use the same 10 volts for measuring Rds. The current through the resistor will be the same current flowing through the mosfet. Once I know the voltage drop across the resistor, V=IR will tell me the current through the resistor. That same current and the voltage drop across the mosfet will tell me its Rds. This will make a nice double check of what the 3 meters directly measure for Rds.
3. The final test will use the same test set-up as number 2, but the gate voltage will be increased slowly. According to the AOT290 spec sheet, the mosfet gate threshold voltage is supposedly a minimum of 2.9 volts and a maximum of 4.1 volts and typically at 3.5 volts. This is the value that I have seen to be widely different from the spec sheet on my component testers. I have not been able to test Rds previously for obvious reasons, but I will use the 4 wire meter to measure Rds at the minimum, typical and maximum threshold voltages. I will also put a mosfet in a couple of component testers to see what they measure for the threshold voltage. This test will be to prove that what my component testers measure is in fact accurate or not for this spec.
That ought to settle any questions about AOT290 mosfet consistency or lack there of and whether an inexpensive component tester is a contemptible POS like some folks think or a worth while and inexpensive test tool. The results will be the results...as always!
Since I have 25 brand new, never been pulled from the antistatic packaging IXYS IXFP180N10T2 mosfets, I'll do the same tests on them. We will see what happens! I'm also thinking of doing the exact same thing on some TI mosfets, but I would need to buy them first. I have some IRF4110's that I bought on ebay a couple of years ago and a bunch that came from digikey I think. I've kept them separate the entire time I've had them. It might be interesting to see if my ebay mosfets are as good as the digikey ones. With all of these tests, I'm looking for consistent results between the various test methods and the test tools and that the mosfets really work according to specs.
People think I was stupid for buying the 2 wire meter. They completely missed the reason why I bought it. So anyway...
I didn't buy the 2 wire meter expecting it to have the precision of a 4 wire meter. I was never under that expectation. I just wanted to see if it was "good enough". Why buy a $100 meter when a $40 one can do what you need? Not everyone needs to measure down to 1 or 2 milli ohms. Lots of folks don't even need to measure down to 1 ohm. For people needing better than 1 ohm and down to .03 ohms, well the $40 MESR-100 with the factory test leads will do just fine for them. Once I have the Kelvin clips that will make it a bit better than it is now. I think .01 ohms will be doable reliably. The crappy alligator clips it came with are not exactly spectacular. So depending on what you are looking for, It may very well be "good enough". It just depends on what you need. It definitely measures resistance in or out of a capacitor so that's proof that while it may have been built for use on capacitors, it also serves other low ohm uses equally well. With the factory alligator clips, I wouldn't rely on it for measurements lower than about .03 ohms. We will see about using Kelvin clips. I'm sure they will help in getting better results.
So then...like I've said all along...the results will be the results and here you go! I used the same shunt on both meters. Of course the 4 wire meter was close to dead on, that was never in doubt or anything I ever questioned.
I will label 10 AOT290's 1 to 10 for this test. I'll arbitrarily pick 10 mosfets from my "stock".
1. The first test will be to bias the AOT290's to 10 volts on their gates and measure Rds with both the 2 wire and 4 wire meters and the newest component tester which measures Rds.
2. For the second test, I'll measure a resistor to put in series with source to drain and measure voltage drop across the mosfet and the resistor. The gate will still be biased at 10 volts. I'll use the same 10 volts for measuring Rds. The current through the resistor will be the same current flowing through the mosfet. Once I know the voltage drop across the resistor, V=IR will tell me the current through the resistor. That same current and the voltage drop across the mosfet will tell me its Rds. This will make a nice double check of what the 3 meters directly measure for Rds.
3. The final test will use the same test set-up as number 2, but the gate voltage will be increased slowly. According to the AOT290 spec sheet, the mosfet gate threshold voltage is supposedly a minimum of 2.9 volts and a maximum of 4.1 volts and typically at 3.5 volts. This is the value that I have seen to be widely different from the spec sheet on my component testers. I have not been able to test Rds previously for obvious reasons, but I will use the 4 wire meter to measure Rds at the minimum, typical and maximum threshold voltages. I will also put a mosfet in a couple of component testers to see what they measure for the threshold voltage. This test will be to prove that what my component testers measure is in fact accurate or not for this spec.
That ought to settle any questions about AOT290 mosfet consistency or lack there of and whether an inexpensive component tester is a contemptible POS like some folks think or a worth while and inexpensive test tool. The results will be the results...as always!
Since I have 25 brand new, never been pulled from the antistatic packaging IXYS IXFP180N10T2 mosfets, I'll do the same tests on them. We will see what happens! I'm also thinking of doing the exact same thing on some TI mosfets, but I would need to buy them first. I have some IRF4110's that I bought on ebay a couple of years ago and a bunch that came from digikey I think. I've kept them separate the entire time I've had them. It might be interesting to see if my ebay mosfets are as good as the digikey ones. With all of these tests, I'm looking for consistent results between the various test methods and the test tools and that the mosfets really work according to specs.
Hello,
thanks for show your 12 to 24Fet Controllers.
For my next Bike/Trike I`m looking for a 15 to 20kw Contoller. The 24Fet Controller is really interesting for me. Also a variable Regen is welcome, do you have ever test Regen or var. Regen on your Bikes? The new 120V Fets are also good step into the right way. Less Ri and some more Voltage for saefty is good.
BR
thanks for show your 12 to 24Fet Controllers.
For my next Bike/Trike I`m looking for a 15 to 20kw Contoller. The 24Fet Controller is really interesting for me. Also a variable Regen is welcome, do you have ever test Regen or var. Regen on your Bikes? The new 120V Fets are also good step into the right way. Less Ri and some more Voltage for saefty is good.
BR
ElectricGod
10 MW
ecross said:
The 24 fet controllers use the IRF4115 mosfet which is a 150 volt part. I've run mine at 36S or 147.6 volts. Variable regen is coming soon. Probably by the time you are ready to buy, it will be ready to be sold. Vadym is a mad genius with what goes into the telemetry modules. I'm waiting for 2 of the latest version right now. They include variable regen. Without the telemetry module you get fixed regen. IE: Set it at some level and it's always at that level. It's just a personal opinion, but the telemetry module is sooo worth it and comes with a great app for your phone. The new module also includes dual temp sensors. One is internal to the controller and the other is external for things like battery or motor temps.
ElectricGod
10 MW
ecross said:
The 24 fet controller comes in 150 volts max only. I'm not sure what you are asking.
No telemetry modules yet...maybe by the weekend.
Powervelocity.com
100 kW
Currently, 24F is offered in two versions:
- 150v version
- 120v version with Toshiba mosfets
I am also working on the third version. It'll be more capable in terms of amps and the price will be a bit higher.
- 150v version
- 120v version with Toshiba mosfets
I am also working on the third version. It'll be more capable in terms of amps and the price will be a bit higher.
ElectricGod
10 MW
Powervelocity.com said:
Didn't know you did a 120 volt version.
So the new version will be 100 volts and use TI mosfets or possibly AOT290's?
Powervelocity.com
100 kW
It's been in the product description for some time:
http://powervelocity.com/index.php?id_product=55&controller=product
But I'll make separate descriptions as specs and price will be different now.
http://powervelocity.com/index.php?id_product=55&controller=product
But I'll make separate descriptions as specs and price will be different now.
ElectricGod said:
ElectricGod
10 MW
Powervelocity.com said:
Yup...sure is...just never read it through.
Voltage operating range 24-100v, 36-120v or 70-150v
ElectricGod
10 MW
I got the new telemetry modules On Saturday. I haven't had a chance to try them out yet.
Powervelocity.com
100 kW
Two temperature inputs are there, as well as throttle control. The roll back will be a matter of adding a line of extra code in the software (will be pushed as an update pretty soon).
madin88 said:
I purchased one of these controllers about eight months ago. I had to send it back for repair after two weeks of use. When I sent it back I opted to have the bluetooth upgraded to use the dashboard feature for android devices. Everything worked well for a while then the bluetooth would constantly dropped connection to the dashboard (android). Now currently I have no ability to connect to the bluetooth device dashboard or for programming the controller. The controller itself began to lose power over time mainly during take off. Which really is the time that you want more torque. When riding and having cruise enabled it would just drop out of cruise. When applying throttle again the motor starts jerking for a bit and the slowly accelerates.
Powervelocity.com
100 kW
Power loss, the way you describe, may or may not be due to controller malfunctioning. It's rather often a wiring issue and does seem to be the case per your description. Things get loose over time under vibration. Same with cruise. It either works or it doesn't. It gets reset when brakes or throttle are touched. So, the most likely reason for cruise resetting would be wiring and/or faulty throttle, brake cutoff. Throttle voltage and brake switch states must remain undisturbed in order for the cruise to hold the speed. That means if the throttle voltage is fluctuating or brake switch goes on and off under vibration, cruise will get naturally reset. It's a feature though, not a bug. Controller misconfiguration is another possibility.
Bluetooth issues, if any, are easy to solve. I've sold hundreds of modules around the globe and everyone has been happy with the product if not ecstatic so far.
Now, I am not saying there can't be a technical issue with the controller itself. It can. What's troubling, however, is that you chose to spend time and effort posting complaints in multiple places rather than reaching out to me for a resolution. I would have provided you with a solution, even though it may not be a controller issue.
Bluetooth issues, if any, are easy to solve. I've sold hundreds of modules around the globe and everyone has been happy with the product if not ecstatic so far.
Now, I am not saying there can't be a technical issue with the controller itself. It can. What's troubling, however, is that you chose to spend time and effort posting complaints in multiple places rather than reaching out to me for a resolution. I would have provided you with a solution, even though it may not be a controller issue.
cbmeals said:
ElectricGod
10 MW
cbmeals said:
Are you running the latest app version?
What OS are you running? Android or IOS? IF Android, is it a custom ROM? What ROM?
I use android and specifically LineageOS 14.1. Every few weeks, I'm putting the latest build on my phone. Some time back, I got a build that BT was really squirly. My phone wouldn't connect to my car or the controllers reliably. I was rebooting my phone every time I got in my car. To connect to my controllers...of which I have 5...all with modules, I had to reboot the phone. Next build caught the BT bugs and that's no longer an issue. You may not be doing anything to your phone like I do. That's not proof of anything. BT issues do happen that have nothing to do with these controllers. Please put the app on another smart phone and see what happens. Your phone may be the culprit despite working with other BT devices. There's many versions of bluetooth. Your phone may have issues with specific versions of bluetooth and work perfectly with others.
ElectricGod
10 MW
New, redesigned 18 fet controllers are here!!! Vadym has had them for just a few days now, but they have several new features and some board rework that makes these new versions a nice upgrade from what was already a really decent controller. I'll be buying at least 2 and probably 4 of them soon.
Vadym sells them with top of the line mosfets. At 100 volts, that's the TI CSD19536KCS. At 120 volts that's the Toshiba TK72E12N1. At 150 volts it's either the IRF4115 or the AOT2500.
This is the only picture I have ATM. More to come as I get my hands on a few of them!
Vadym sells them with top of the line mosfets. At 100 volts, that's the TI CSD19536KCS. At 120 volts that's the Toshiba TK72E12N1. At 150 volts it's either the IRF4115 or the AOT2500.
This is the only picture I have ATM. More to come as I get my hands on a few of them!
ElectricGod said:New, redesigned 18 fet controllers are here!!! Vadym has had them for just a few days now, but they have several new features and some board rework that makes these new versions a nice upgrade from what was already a really decent controller. I'll be buying at least 2 and probably 4 of them soon.
Vadym sells them with top of the line mosfets. At 100 volts, that's the TI CSD19536KCS. At 120 volts that's the Toshiba TK72E12N1. At 150 volts it's either the IRF4115 or the AOT2500.
This is the only picture I have ATM. More to come as I get my hands on a few of them!
Hi, please send us more infos from the new 18Fet controller.....
ElectricGod
10 MW
ecross said:ElectricGod said:New, redesigned 18 fet controllers are here!!! Vadym has had them for just a few days now, but they have several new features and some board rework that makes these new versions a nice upgrade from what was already a really decent controller. I'll be buying at least 2 and probably 4 of them soon.
Vadym sells them with top of the line mosfets. At 100 volts, that's the TI CSD19536KCS. At 120 volts that's the Toshiba TK72E12N1. At 150 volts it's either the IRF4115 or the AOT2500.
This is the only picture I have ATM. More to come as I get my hands on a few of them!
Hi, please send us more infos from the new 18Fet controller.....
I just tried to buy a couple of them and they are on hold for now at the factory. I'll try again soon.
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