This is getting really crazy to the extend that you have to watch how to use the sytem not to break it. In a way this is not realistic for normal users who don't know of the poor controller design.astmacca said:
Thats exactly what happens when I use the bike in default settings. So in a way the design makes you molest your controller.Kepler said:
I measured 0.85 rather than 0.8 but I didn't go past 50%. Interestingly at Limitspd% 100%, cadence is not controlled but depends on the motor characteristics. I've had assist with cadences as high as 97 rpm but it is battery voltage dependent and drops as the battery discharges. Operating at full power I've found the cadence vs power data to be higher than published by Bafang. However, it is lower than desirable as it runs out before the average human.pjgold said:
My citybike has a 38 front chainwheel and a 17t rear wheel. With the Shimano Nexus 8gear it runs beautifully anywhere with a 250W-BBS01. Wheel is 28".jpo said:
As far as I can tell shut down is different but start up is the same logic whether stopped through ceasing pedaling or brake operation. There are 3 settings that control pedal assist start up. Startup Degree(Signal No.), Slow-Start Mode(1-8) and Start Current(%).jpo said:
Storm in a tea cup. The motor is perfectly usable and reliable without having to worry about your cadence. As long as the motor isn't labouring in a gear that is too high you'll be fine.bgt said:
jpo said:
I'd mostly agree because phase current limiting is rare, it is unnatural to use too low a cadence and it has to be to be too slow for quite a while to overheat. It is more of a problem with hub motors because motor speed is only related to cadence by the gear ratio and even there the average operator will never have a problem. You are much more likely to be "labouring in a gear that is too high" when riding off road and people who use use full throttle while going slowly up steep hills overheat hub motors all the time. I've done it which prompted me to try and understand what had gone wrong. One thing I've noticed with electric bikes is that the novice is able to do things that only fit and experienced riders can do on an unpowered bike so the novice can easily get into situations that they wouldn't normally experience until they had become more skilled. Keeping cadence up is something that an experienced rider does without thinking to maximise their own pedaling efficiency. With the BBS02 I suspect "labouring in a gear that is too high" is the explanation for this failure:Tom L said:
particularly as the controller failed twice. This is, of course, speculative. In this case it is the controller that has failed rather than the windings overheating but being built in, the controller is heated by the motor and the extra heat generation in the controller depends on the current and the voltage drop across the FETs. Voltage drop is usually high when there is excessive phase current. But it may be that there is phase current limiting built in and none of this matters, Em3Ev said there isn't but Kepler suggested there is.hie2kolob said:
Throttle takes precedence over pedal assist and settings on the Pedal Assist tab do not affect throttle behaviour.jpo said:
If you connect Brown (P+) to anything other than Orange (PL) expect to wreck your controller in an instant. Maybe it matters if you connect the wrong thing to Black (GND). It doesn't do any harm if you get Green (TXD) and White (RXD) back to front but it will not work.jpo said:
Yes. As I recall, it was your early investigations that discovered this for the benefit of those of us that have followed.Tom L said:
Rider2000,Rider2000 said:
So I have time to think...
