Project Cove GNG-Spot build thread

[ferret]

Here is a picture of my handlebar and shifter:



No room for a twist throttle without interfering with the levers.

My throttle is incremental like most other hall sensor ones, but you do have to be very gentle and precise to modulate the power.

I never really tried a grip shift. It seems to about as bulky as a twist throttle. Is there enough room to fit both the grip shift, a (thumb?) throttle and a brake lever?
I also don't think any gripshift will be compatible with my 10 speed Shimano rear derailer.
Crossbreak, do you have a picture of a gripshift+throttle setup?

Avner.

 

[crossbreak]

I use grip-shift on the left, throttle on the right. Full control, fast and very siumple + intuitive to learn... I hate thumb throttles and shifters

Thumb shifters are slow to handle. Grip shift is much faster. It can be mounted on the left easily. Thumb shifters are fine for slow bikes like MTBs. For electrified high power bikes they are useless because of several reasons:
-You can only shift 2-3 gears at once. That is useless if your vehicle accelerates fast, like in 4 or 5 seconds to max speed. If you have 2000W at the wheel, these are common figures.
-you have to use both throttle and shifter by the same hand. That is challenging ... near to impossible
- thumb shifters often interfere with twist throttles
- motorcycles always have their shifters on the left. It is more intuitive to learn.

I have made a bike for a friend that has thumb shifter (shimano XT 9-speed) + twist throttle (cheap chinese hall type) on the right.... Had to cut the throttle a bit (see the hotglue in the picture??)
It works.. but I really hate to drive it. I'm always hesitating with shifting+throttleing down while shifting... just poor control and SLOW. But this bike has 3000W and wants to go fast... That is very frustrating... he simply shifts very rarely.. mostly just uses the highest/fastest gear

About grip shift twist shifters:
Dont go for Shimano ones, they suck. Go for an SRAM ESP one instead. They shift more easily + smoother +more precise due longer leverage. You need a SRAM ESP derailleur then. One exception: SRAM ESP 9-Speed twist shifters work with 10-speed Shimano derailleurs+ 9speed cassette. Everything else is not compatible if you mix brands

my 10 speed Shimano rear derailer

10 speed is really useless for middrives. The chain is weak. The shift distances small. You dont want both when using middrives. Go for 7 speed (best IMO) or 9 speed instead. Also dont use small sprockets like 13T or smaller. They wear your chain very fast. Using 14T-34T 7-speed cassettes has yet worked best for me. But as said, a 9-speed ESP grip shifter should work fine with your derailleur if you install a 9speed cassette+chain.

About throttle control: Which controller do you use? I can't find one in the pics.

 

[ferret]

Sorry for neglecting this thread...

I chose to use 10 speeds for two reasons:
First is to use a clutched rear derailleur to minimize chain slap.
Second is to retain a wide gear range so I am still able to ride under my own power in case the battery is depleted or I have an electrical malfunction in the middle of the mountains.

I'm planning to start riding in this configuration but will change it if it is not satisfactory.

The controller is Lyen's 6 FET, chosen for its compact size.

Still waiting for the frame bag to arrive.
In the meantime, I have modified a fork lockout lever to be used as a throttle in conjunction with a throttle box:



Avner.

 

[ferret]

Last week the frame bag I ordered arrived. Since it didn't fit properly, I broke down and decided to build a battery box.
Here are some pictures from the build process:










Still need no make a cover for the left side and some wiring. Hopefully it'll be completed in the next few days and I'll go on another test ride.

Avner.

 

[etard]

That looks great! I think you will be much happier with the metal box and it will protect the batteries from drops and rocks.

 

[ferret]

Ground all the weld beads on the battery box for a smoother look:

Finished making it's cover:

Batteries, controller and throttle box fit nice and tight inside the box:

The new throttle lever is much nicer than the old one:

 

[jateureka]

Nice build.
Interested to see how the jackshaft holds up.

 

[ferret]

Thanks.
So far the jackshaft itself held up fine, however, the freewheel connected to the motor didn't.

At the end of the last ride something started slipping and power wasn't being transferred from the motor to to the wheel.
I discovered that the freewheel wasn't engaging, because the powels are shot. It's an ACS freewheel which members of the forum had good experiences with.
I ordered a new one and before running it I plan to lower the current limit (either battery or phase). I was planning to do it anyway to make the throttle easier to control on slow and technical trails, now there is another reason to do it - to protect the freewheel.

Avner.

 

[windtrader]

The ACS freewheel is mentioned often as a suitable FW. White Industries is another that is mentioned but more costly I think. Are you still running about 1500 watts? What is the maximum peak watts you push through the power train? The planetary gears still holding up well? Very compact way to go if it is durable. I'd love to see a similar design that could take a bit more torque.

 

[ferret]

A quick vid a friend made after our ride:

http://www.magisto.com/album/video/eXd5QVlHHlc5Oz4EDmEwCXh8