Project: Home made velomobile design with crank or mid motor

Feels like information overload. :)

Is a buck converter all I need? I can buy a DC-DC boost converter and connect to the charge port of the BMS. Not sure if it will add energy simultaneously with draining the battery. I think the BMS prevents that. Maybe I can add a relay which connects it to the battery output when I ride, and the BMS charge port when the velo battery is switched off.

I wonder how Organic Transit solar charging works.
 
tahustvedt said:
Feels like information overload. :)

Is a buck converter all I need? I can buy a DC-DC boost converter and connect to the charge port of the BMS. Not sure if it will add energy simultaneously with draining the battery. I think the BMS prevents that. Maybe I can add a relay which connects it to the battery output when I ride, and the BMS charge port when the velo battery is switched off.

I wonder how Organic Transit solar charging works.
Click to expand...

Might be worth asking Johan from Velove.se to see how he's connected his solar panel to the bafang max battery he's installed on the Armadillo.
 
I'm going to try one of these connected to the charge port of the BMS. Maybe make it switchable so that I can connect it to the output of the BMS when riding so that it contributes to the riding power, and to the charge port when I turn off power.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271833256005

Here's a short clip of my velomobile as I arrive at a friend's house.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V04fiQN9rfk
 
Kick ass! Going that route with my completed project also. Subconsciously stealing your body shape :wink:

I find it hard to justify a panel when a kWh costs 10 cents though. It'd be a neat novelty eye catcher though.
 
Are you having any issues with your brake rotors? Not sure if they were warped from the start or if riding it faster and harder made it more noticable or if doing so warped the rotors but my wheel yanks left to ride upon braking :?
 
My brake rotors are uneven, and pulsate. I don't feel anything in the steering though. They have always been like this. I'll replace them with Avid rotors that I have lying around.
 
The Toecutter said:
The solar panel is going to greatly increase the utility of your ride. How much did your solar system weigh?
Click to expand...

It says 2,5 kg on the panel, but I haven't weighed it. The acrylic window I removed to install the panel weighs 1 kg, so the increase is about 1,5 kg.
 
Sorry, the panel specs say 2 kg, so it's 1 kg xtra.


I received the boost regulator today and it seems to work, at least when I connected a battery to adjust the output to 41 V 2,5 A. It's completely overcast now so the panel is currently delivering 2 W to the battery. I'm looking forward to good weather now.
 
I checked my rotors and they aren't noticably warped without breaking out the dial indicator. spins evenly. I have been doing some 50km/h 30mph full brake stops down a steep hill trying to bed the brakes in to no avail. only at those speeds at full brake do they wobble the steering. Kinda like reverse torque-steer wobble in a FWD car. when you are spinning the wheels. Gonna try to sand down the rotors and sand the pads and hit them with a blow torch to remove any oil on the pads and then repeat the bedding in/seating process and report back. I have a cheaper set of calipers and rotors but they *should* function exactly the same if they are pushing the pad in evenly.

Can you report back on the results of your caliper change? Do you feel the monocoque wood structure mounting points would hold up to the rigors of the rougher riding I have been sugjecting mine to? Jumping off curbs/up curbs/ full speed across bumpy fields. Mind you I have no suspension outside of my seat and ass cheeks. We both have made practical commuters/utility vehicles and they aren't intended for this type of riding but I want to find the weaknesses early on.
 
That would be cool. The weather currently isn't doing much good.

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Time will tell how well the solar panel works. So far I'm experiencing unusually dark weather.

I have started preparing for the pneumatic leaning system. I made a two piece pulley to mount on the end of the steering axle, which will let me index the steering with a belt down to a potentiometer. I use the same belts that drive my 3D Printers. The belt is open ended so can be wrapped around without disconnecting everything.

I also brazed some piano wire to the ends of the mirror posts so that I can adjust the pitch of the mirrors from inside. I will 3D print some nicer handles to slip over the piano wire.
 

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Can you go into detail the hardware you are going to use to actuate the suspension? I get that you have air shocks and can tap into the pressure port, but what hardware are you going to use to pressurize and/or alternately depressurize the opposite piston? With a double A-arm suspension, are you just going to sag one side? Not sure how you can lean it much without changing the suspension system entirely

Also, for a given speed you'd want a different amount of lean. Are you going to take input/output from your controller/cycle meter for speed and variate the piston pressure/exhaust to change the angle of lean for a given speed?
 
nerdalert said:
Can you go into detail the hardware you are going to use to actuate the suspension? I get that you have air shocks and can tap into the pressure port, but what hardware are you going to use to pressurize and/or alternately depressurize the opposite piston? With a double A-arm suspension, are you just going to sag one side? Not sure how you can lean it much without changing the suspension system entirely

Also, for a given speed you'd want a different amount of lean. Are you going to take input/output from your controller/cycle meter for speed and variate the piston pressure/exhaust to change the angle of lean for a given speed?
Click to expand...

The G-sensor will automatically compensate differently at diferent speeds. The direct control will just lean according to steering angle.

I will use a windshield wiper motor (worm gear motor) between two pneumatic cylinders. It will both increase on one side and decrease pressure on the other side according to the signal. When centered there will be equal pressure on both sides. I will use a Pololu robot motor controller. At first I wanted to use one big cylinder and connect each shock to each side of the cylinder, but I now plan to use two cylinders and only pressurize one side. That lets me use shorter hoses between the shock and cylinder, which is important for the spring rate.
 
For example, if you turn hard left the right side shock will be doubled in pressure and spring rate whilst the left shock will half in pressure and spring rate?
 
Yes. Each suspension has about 80 mm travel, so it's not going to lean it hard over like a bicycle, but hopefully I can make it work well enough for normal riding. It's an experiment.
 
Here's the potentiometer mount. A ball bearing supports the shaft end to reduce the radial load on the potentiometer.
 

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