Purchasing advice for new puncture proof heavy CARGO HEAVY duty ebike tires

calab said:
The hardest part is trying to find the hole.
Been having a spout of flats myself as of late.
First it was a staple

You need a hand pump and carry it with you. You pump it up and listen where the hissing is coming from.
 
I do have a small hand pump I bring with me, along with spare tubes and tools and 2 chargers.
Its just sometimes ya just cant find the darn hole, plus there is no puddle or pool of standing water around.
Then of course you go through the motions of trying to listen for the air, then try to feel it on a cheek, then you start spitting on anything that looks like a hole and try to confine the spit and move spit around with your fingers making a pool of spit move so you can find the darn hole, and so it be, sometimes you just cant find the darn hole in the tube.

If it werent for the v-brakes that originally came with the bike, and the subsequent fork I replaced that has a disk mount and where the hub is, I'd just switch to moped rims and tires.


MarkJohnston said:
calab said:
The hardest part is trying to find the hole.
Been having a spout of flats myself as of late.
First it was a staple

You need a hand pump and carry it with you. You pump it up and listen where the hissing is coming from.
 
calab said:
I do have a small hand pump I bring with me, along with spare tubes and tools and 2 chargers.
Its just sometimes ya just cant find the darn hole, plus there is no puddle or pool of standing water around.
Then of course you go through the motions of trying to listen for the air, then try to feel it on a cheek, then you start spitting on anything that looks like a hole and try to confine the spit and move spit around with your fingers making a pool of spit move so you can find the darn hole, and so it be, sometimes you just cant find the darn hole in the tube.

If it werent for the v-brakes that originally came with the bike, and the subsequent fork I replaced that has a disk mount and where the hub is, I'd just switch to moped rims and tires.


MarkJohnston said:
calab said:
The hardest part is trying to find the hole.
Been having a spout of flats myself as of late.
First it was a staple

You need a hand pump and carry it with you. You pump it up and listen where the hissing is coming from.


Yeah that's why I bought $118 tires. Well see. Hope it fixes my problem
I was getting flat after flat. I suppose you'll get better with time at fixing flats.

If it's a super slow leak i could see it being difficult to find.

I know you already think carrying around all these tools is nuts, but maybe consider a small portable spray bottle.
 
Ok. I have a problem here.

The huge wide wheel engulfs my narrow 19mm rim. How do I fit this thing on here?

I'm able to get it on most of the way but it's super difficult. Yes according to SCHWALBEs official tire sizing chart it's suppose to fit but mother fu**er it's a PITA to work this bead!

On top of that my hands and wrists hurt like hell from being stranded today and having to apply 5 patches and using a crappy hand pump.

I'm gonna try again tomorrow. Let me know if there are tips to fitting huge balloon tires on narrow rims.
 

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Chalo said:
Despite Nep's fixation on tire thickness, it's only one factor in flat prevention. High strength textile belts, breaker belts of non-grippy rubber, and multi-layered high denier casing plies can all make a thinner armored bicycle tire more protective than a moped tire with a thicker wall of only tread rubber (which grabs and holds sharp objects) and low thread count fabric casing (which allows easy passage of thin pointy things).

Let me give you another flash of the hell i live in:

I'm fixated on rubber thickness because my roads are littered with 6-11mm length goatheads.
I have probably spent $1000 over the years trying this and that 'puncture proof' tire.
The best puncture proof tire will take 100 goatheads to the wheel in a single ride and flick off 95% of them.
The 5% it doesn't flick off means that i get a flat tire on pretty much every ride, because there are so many goatheads on the road.

Put slime in the tube and i go from a flat every ride to a flat every 3 rides + a very messy eventual tube swap.
With slime, stans no tubes, etc, i also get almost the additional rolling drag and weight of a small moto tire, but not the protection of a small moto tire.

Chalo, imagine that every time you ride your bike, you consume $10 worth of bike tube/patches, a defeating tire change, and possibly a walk home. This makes bicycling more expensive and much less convenient than driving a car.

Chalo said:
In many thousands of miles on multiple bikes, the only thing that got through my Kenda Kwick Drumlins was a single nail that also poked holes through the inner wall of the bike's rim. I don't think heavy slow moto tires would have helped in that case.

That would have popped a car tire. We just can't do anything about that. But that nail is a rare road encounter.
A strong magnet in front of the wheel would probably fix this problem.
 
MarkJohnston said:
I'm gonna try again tomorrow. Let me know if there are tips to fitting huge balloon tires on narrow rims.

Unfortunately, the thicker the tire, the harder it is to fit.
I have a set of bicycle tire levers made of plastic ( cheap, effective ) for such tires and have metal ones for fitting motorcycle tires.
This makes the thick bike tire swap pretty easy, but the motorcycle tire swap is always an epic struggle of man vs machine.

The narrowness of the rim vs the wide-ish tire doesn't help the situation with the bike tire unfortunately.
 
MarkJohnston said:
Ok. I have a problem here.

The huge wide wheel engulfs my narrow 19mm rim. How do I fit this thing on here?

I'm able to get it on most of the way but it's super difficult.

Stiff tires that want to spread their beads apart are the hardest to mount. Technique is key.

Whichever bead wire you're trying to install, make sure the rest of it is sitting in the bottom of the groove in the center of the rim. This implies letting air out of the tube as necessary, and fidgeting that wire to the center even when it wants to be pressed out against the edge. In the worst cases, it can help to use toe straps or zip ties to constrict the tire into place.

I find that hanging the wheel from the section of tire I'm trying to lift over the edge tends to help keep the bead snugged down into the rim channel.
 
neptronix said:
Chalo said:
Despite Nep's fixation on tire thickness, it's only one factor in flat prevention.

Let me give you another flash of the hell i live in:

I'm fixated on rubber thickness because my roads are littered with 6-11mm length goatheads.
[...]
Chalo, imagine that every time you ride your bike, you consume $10 worth of bike tube/patches, a defeating tire change, and possibly a walk home. This makes bicycling more expensive and much less convenient than driving a car.

Yes, there are outlying circumstances for sure. In your situation, I'd be inclined to try Tannus Armour liners plus sealant in the tube. That's extra weight, cost, inconvenience, and ride quality effects, but maybe worth it? For me, it would be worth a try. I have bought a set of these liners for my cargo bike (more for my own education than because I get punctures), but I haven't had the occasion to install them yet.

61iWyj6PSML._AC_SY450_.jpg


I remember visiting Albuquerque one time and having to take the car to a local shop for troubleshooting. Just walking the half mile or so from the bus stop back to the hotel, my sandals got continuously surfaced with goatheads on the bottoms. There were little wind drifts of goatheads blowing around on the sidewalks. I couldn't imagine having to live all the time with the bastards.

It was also from Albuquerque that I learned about "the system", which is using a second tire (with the wire beads cut off) as a tire liner.

The folks I meet in the shop here in Austin who get super fanatical about flat preventives don't need such measures. They need to A) stop riding in the gutter over broken glass and B) not be phobic about the possibility that they might need to fix a flat once in a long while.
 
Looks like Nep could have converted to moped tires long ago and saved $1,000 but the downsides to moped tires can complicate matters.

I am not convinced on tubeless tires, I'd put up with the mess if I knew for a fact it would be helpful.


Tannus Armour liners plus sealant in the tube.
to me looks like a great option.

A) stop riding in the gutter over broken glass
That is how I got my latest flat, replaced with a 700x35 tube but with a Presta valve :( I realized to late. I hate Presta valves. I dont think I ever seen those pesky little things that are everywhere in Alberqueque, was it close? Albuquerque, close enough.

How many plastic tire levers have you broken? I broken a few of the skinnier ones.
 
Chalo said:
neptronix said:
Chalo said:
Despite Nep's fixation on tire thickness, it's only one factor in flat prevention.

Let me give you another flash of the hell i live in:

I'm fixated on rubber thickness because my roads are littered with 6-11mm length goatheads.
[...]
Chalo, imagine that every time you ride your bike, you consume $10 worth of bike tube/patches, a defeating tire change, and possibly a walk home. This makes bicycling more expensive and much less convenient than driving a car.

Yes, there are outlying circumstances for sure. In your situation, I'd be inclined to try Tannus Armour liners plus sealant in the tube. That's extra weight, cost, inconvenience, and ride quality effects, but maybe worth it? For me, it would be worth a try. I have bought a set of these liners for my cargo bike (more for my own education than because I get punctures), but I haven't had the occasion to install them yet.

61iWyj6PSML._AC_SY450_.jpg


I remember visiting Albuquerque one time and having to take the car to a local shop for troubleshooting. Just walking the half mile or so from the bus stop back to the hotel, my sandals got continuously surfaced with goatheads on the bottoms. There were little wind drifts of goatheads blowing around on the sidewalks. I couldn't imagine having to live all the time with the bastards.

It was also from Albuquerque that I learned about "the system", which is using a second tire (with the wire beads cut off) as a tire liner.

The folks I meet in the shop here in Austin who get super fanatical about flat preventives don't need such measures. They need to A) stop riding in the gutter over broken glass and B) not be phobic about the possibility that they might need to fix a flat once in a long while.


There are goat heads here too in August and July, but if you stick to the roads the cars sweep it up.
 
I've got one of the wheels put together fully and wow all I can say is I am majorly impressed. This looks and feels incredible. The sidewalls are so thick even though the rims are so narrow there's barely any flex in the tire. :D (plus that new rubber smell) :lol:

This so far looks like it's worth every penny of the $118. Of course field trials come next. I also went into one of the local bike shops and the mechanic there had the extra thick inner tubes. I am sure I overpaid because it was $17.50 but it is also sublite brand this tube is the one going on the hub motor wheel itself. Also I needed it today :wink:

So far so good.
 

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Installation was easy Enough. You can get a free paint can opener at a paint store to work as a third hand to hold the bead in place.( See pictures below) I recommend working the beads one at a time as pictured below. Voila

Now I have to check the part of my rim because the puncture before was from the one of the spoke holes I think. Its on the inner part of the tube.
 

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Chalo said:
Yes, there are outlying circumstances for sure. In your situation, I'd be inclined to try Tannus Armour liners plus sealant in the tube. That's extra weight, cost, inconvenience, and ride quality effects, but maybe worth it? For me, it would be worth a try. I have bought a set of these liners for my cargo bike (more for my own education than because I get punctures), but I haven't had the occasion to install them yet.

61iWyj6PSML._AC_SY450_.jpg

Yeah that's produced by a company in this area, what i hear in local bike shops is that they're really bad for ride quality, which is not a surprise considering the physical properties of something 'foamlike'. I haven't tried them, considering i don't want a loss of handling in exchange. ( i don't lose this with a MC tire... in fact, my worries about a sidewall puncture are almost naught :mrgreen: )

Sounds like you have it easy in austin, Utah is very tidy, and it's mostly nature that wreaks havoc, not humans.

Chalo said:
I remember visiting Albuquerque one time and having to take the car to a local shop for troubleshooting. Just walking the half mile or so from the bus stop back to the hotel, my sandals got continuously surfaced with goatheads on the bottoms. There were little wind drifts of goatheads blowing around on the sidewalks. I couldn't imagine having to live all the time with the bastards.

It was also from Albuquerque that I learned about "the system", which is using a second tire (with the wire beads cut off) as a tire liner.

The folks I meet in the shop here in Austin who get super fanatical about flat preventives don't need such measures. They need to A) stop riding in the gutter over broken glass and B) not be phobic about the possibility that they might need to fix a flat once in a long while.

I tried 'the system' (AW's idea) and it resulted in a wobbly tire and premature flat. I don't think i can fix the wobbly tire issue, it's too much flexy rubber and screws up cornering. I can see how it would be okay for a slow speed bike, but this ruins a fast bike's cornering.

Hopefully MarkJohnston doesn't live in a place like mine and his tire needs are *way* less than mine :mrgreen:
 
That's not a bad tire, it looks comparable to schwalbe's more heavy duty stuff. ( i just wish it had a few MM more of rubber myself )

Make sure you get a plastic tire iron, don't want to mess up that rim ( or innertube ) by rubbing metal on it. :thumb:
 
neptronix said:
That's not a bad tire, it looks comparable to schwalbe's more heavy duty stuff. ( i just wish it had a few MM more of rubber myself )

Make sure you get a plastic tire iron, don't want to mess up that rim ( or innertube ) by rubbing metal on it. :thumb:

Nah I just frock it. I'll install it today. So far so good. But now I'm puzzling something new
 
As you guys can see pictured below. The flat happened on the inner portion of the tube. It didn't happen as far as I can tell from an ( ROAD SIDE) outer puncture. It happened on the INSIDE! ALSO before this tube I had another which another patch gave out....hmmmm

The inside of the rim is perfectly smooth. Pictureed below is the exact puncture area and you can see some of the patch glue residue on the rim tape. I can't figure it out. What caused this small 1mm cut on this inner tube?

Sure would be a shame to ruin this 17.50 inner tube from something inside cutting it up.
 

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That certainly is a puzzler. Nice full coverage uniform rimstrip, no apparent burrs or sharp edges.

Few times I have had something similar was evidently from poor technique. Struggling with a difficult install, I resorted to metal tools which inadvertently pinched the innertube during install just enough to scar and weaken it (did not fail immediately) that manifested itself in a leaky hole after some use.

Maybe you did similar?

Moral of the story: gotta be super careful in the rush to get the tire mounted to not pinch the innertube during the process. Super careful.

Otherwise another possibility is defective innertube (weak spot) that finally gave way.

PS Don't feel bad about spending extra on extra thick high quality innertubes. Think of what the convenience is worth for not having to deal with so many flats. :D
 
BTW, is that hole almost directly across from the valve stem? If so, that's your answer-- that's where we typically struggle forcing the last stubborn bit of tire bead over the rim lip with tools!
 
99t4 said:
BTW, is that hole almost directly across from the valve stem? If so, that's your answer-- that's where we typically struggle forcing the last stubborn bit of tire bead over the rim lip with tools!

Yeah I used a screwdriver
 
Anybody have a recommended bullet proof patch kit? The most annoying thing is the glue dries out in the tube after opening eventually and I hate that. The mechanic at the shop said the Vega kit was good. Chalo? Anybody?
 
I've not found many specific patch "kits" that seem all that much better than others, once you get past the cheap noname / junk stuff. I have used a few, including the parktools version, and one by Rema "tip top", that were in the top of the list. LIke all the others, the glue dries out, even if you don't open it, and for me it's almost always dried out by the time I actually need it. :(

I don't have many flats anymore, since going with the methods I outlined previously, but for those I do get I use the 4cm size1 Rema patches and the "blue" Rema glue in a halfpint jar, I think it is.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002NGZJIC
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HQSRMQX
I have some little glass jars to carry a bit of the glue around in, and I change it out periodically because even in those it dries out. Sometimes the jars fail so I carry two. ;)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X5VXSCG
 
MarkJohnston said:
99t4 said:
BTW, is that hole almost directly across from the valve stem? If so, that's your answer-- that's where we typically struggle forcing the last stubborn bit of tire bead over the rim lip with tools!

Yeah I used a screwdriver

I got tired of tube damage so I got these a while ago, they work well enough on everything I've had to change out including wheelchair tires.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RQB3H2
 
Yeah about to reinstall and hoping I don't damage the inner tube. I may have scratched it a bit after a THOROUGH examination

(An inch above my thumb. Little round spot.)
 

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MarkJohnston said:
Anybody have a recommended bullet proof patch kit? The most annoying thing is the glue dries out in the tube after opening eventually and I hate that. The mechanic at the shop said the Vega kit was good. Chalo? Anybody?

I only use Rema Tip Top patch kits and refills if I have the choice, because I don't like to waste my time. Yes the glue dries out a while after you open it. It's cheap; get some extra. You can get a can of it for your home workshop and save the little tubes for on-the-road repairs.
 
I never knew you could use an old tubes rubber as the patching material.
 
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