Question about Grintech shunt and speed limiting

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Apr 14, 2019
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Bike setup: phaserunner x2, Grin all axle motor up front, bafang mg60 in back. Grin dual motor shunt in the middle. :)

Here’s my problem- the CA connected to the shunt can tell me overall power output but I need to limit by speed for an event, and the shunt CA can't read speed at all. If i connect a CA directly to one of the phaserunners I can get speed but that CA cannot affect both motors at once. How can I either limit speed on both motors or, ideally, get speed information into the shunted CA?
 
onewheelskyward said:
Bike setup: phaserunner x2, Grin all axle motor up front, bafang mg60 in back. Grin dual motor shunt in the middle. :)

Here’s my problem- the CA connected to the shunt can tell me overall power output but I need to limit by speed for an event, and the shunt CA can't read speed at all. If i connect a CA directly to one of the phaserunners I can get speed but that CA cannot affect both motors at once. How can I either limit speed on both motors or, ideally, get speed information into the shunted CA?

You can add a simple wheelspeed sensor like this
https://ebikes.ca/ca-speedo.html
to either wheel, and wire that to the ground and speedo wire of the CA-SA shunt connector. No need to change any other wiring on the bike.

If you can't get the grin one, you can use one from a cheapo bike speedometer, or you can use any reed switch and magnet (like door-window security sensors) that creates a change in the signal when the magnet passes it. The N.O. type is what is used in the typical speedo sensor. For any wheel sensor with one magnet on the wheel spokes, the CA "number of poles" gets set to 1. (otherwise, match the number of magnets you use--I use three to give faster response of speed changes at low speeds from a stop)

If a wheel sensor is not an option, you can run a wire from the speedo wire of the CA-SA shunt connector to the speedo output wire of the PR that runs the Grin All Axle hubmotor in the wheel. As long as that PR's speedo output wire provides a signal from one of the motor's halls, then your CA can read that signal. For this the number of poles needs to match half the magnets in the motor. That's usually 46 magnets, so 23 poles. If the PR is not set up to output one of the hall signals to the speedo wire, you could hack a wire from any of the hall signals directly to the speedo wire of the CA-SA shunt connector.


ONce you have a wheel speed sensor feeding into the CA, you can then setup whatever speed limiting you like in it's menus, and it will then affect whatever system(s) that the CA is outputting a throttle signal to.


Personally, I prefer a standalone wheel sensor, because there are two ways you can destroy a CA if the speedo uses a motor hall. It's a rare event, but the possibility exists, and I prefer prevention whenever I can manage it. ;)

The first I haven't had myself, but others have had various electronics destroyed by it: If something happens to the motor phase / hall wiring (axle damage, etc) that causes a short between any phase wire and the hall signal wire hooked to the CA speedo wire, then the CA MCU (and controller, and motor hall sensor) can be destroyed by the high voltage passed thru the short from the phase wire.


The second: I had an incident where somehow the shunt wiring cable at the exit of the CA-SA shunt split the jacket around the wiring, and something (vibration?) eventually also split the insulation around some of the wires inside. Then the speedo wire shorted against the battery positive wire in that cable, and it blew up the CA MCU and the motor hall sensor (and I think the controller; I cant' remember). I probably still have the fried CA somewhere....

Not a very likely occurence....but really bad consequences if it does.

So now I only use standalone speed sensors for the CA. ;)
 
Woah good call- I will vibration mount the shunt, right now it's just ziptied onto the frame. And I'll look into the external speed sensor. I'm afraid I left this to the last minute so I'm going to try limiting the speed of the phaserunners in the software. Fingers crossed. :)

Thank you so much!
 
onewheelskyward said:
Woah good call- I will vibration mount the shunt, right now it's just ziptied onto the frame.
If the wire can vibrate relative to the shunt casing, that's what can cause a break. If the shunt is tied tot he frame, just make sure the wire is, too, near (but not right at) the shunt. If you like you can add strain relief to it as well, for instance by adding a dollop of silicone around the wire right at the entrance to the shunt.

It's not really a very likely failure...but if it does happen the way it did to me, it can break a lot of stuff in an instant. :(
 
Noted, thank you again!!

I added power limits in both phaserunners, test run this afternoon, race tomorrow! :shock:
 
It went quite well- the phaserunner speed limiting was perfect at 32.2kph, I was able to slowly and easily pass a guy whose bike could only manage 19mph. :) I will either procure a ca-dps or convert mine into one in the future, thanks so much. My only issue was one of my batteries went bad, but the other one got me home with half a charge left.
 
onewheelskyward said:
I will either procure a ca-dps or convert mine into one in the future, thanks so much.
Do you mean so you can separate the speedo wire? If so, you might also go ahead and separate the throttle wire (and run it to the controller's actual throttle connector), while you're at it.

The wiring and PCB info is on the CA v3 info page near the bottom, to know where to connect different wires if you need to.



FWIW, there are quite a few potential serious problems with various wiring failure modes on a typical ebike, created and/or exacerbated by the tendency to enclose high voltage system wiring in the same cable and/or path and/or device as small-signal system wiring.

The most common example of this is hubmotors, which include the hall signals within the same cable as the phase wires, for almost every one out there. Plus they both go thru the same axle-hole, usually in a way that when something goes wrong, it allows shearing or twisting of the cable in a way that forces conductors of different wires together, allowing shorts between different voltage systems.

There are various ways of redesigning all of these systems to minimize risk, but none of them that I've worked with do this. I've done a little bit of it on my trike, but not nearly as much as I could (or should), and if I ever get to build a new version, I'd like to correct that, given the number of times I've seen (directly or here on the forum, etc) large-scale failures caused by a simple wiring short. :)


I'd rather operate on the caution principle for this stuff, because as noted before, it's a very low risk of failure, but very high-impact when it occurs.
 
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