Qulbix 165/140 Raptor /NYX Carbon - Sabvoton/Adaptto - 20s/22s Build #5

[MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER]

Any pictures of your mounted new nice controller 8)

Thanks

 

[Offroader]

Merlin, why are you building a 2nd raptor?

 

[Merlin]

I'll show when its finished :wink:

 

[Rix]

Merlin, why are you building a 2nd raptor?

He is building a 2nd raptor so his buddies can ride with him.

 

[Mammalian04]

I second that! It's the only thing better than 1 Raptor. No if I could just finish the first one, I'd be on my way instead of thinking about building a second one!

 

[MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER]

I'll show when its finished :wink:

Thanks! any preview yet?

 

[Xtr6]

Need Some help here. My raptor is not streetlegal, can i put the potentiometer to the V3 and will i than be able too drive on public roads with a chosen maximum speed So i don't get the attention of the police. Oure shoot i make a swith and how do i make this. Has annyone has a drawing of how to make this. I don't have a pas just a trottle.

Thanks

 

[Offroader]

I was wondering what ever happened to Merlin.

What do you mean by a potentiometer?

Are you using a cycle analyst? Can't you adjust your speed limit with the cycle analyst? The other option is to buy a Adaptto Max-E and you can easily adjust the speed with that.

Unless you're talking about this potentiometer, a company in Germany sells this.

http://www.e-bike-technologies.de/index.php/de-DE/cycle-analyst-v3-zubehoer/potentiometer-mit-halterung

 

[Xtr6]

I have a CA and it works fine. I read about the link you put in and I was wondering if it´s possible that I mount this on a hidden space and when the police check my bike I can reduce the speed by turnig this swith before they put it on a rolling road machine. I read that a few Guy's made a 3 speed swith because of this same reason. But don´t know hopw they made it.

 

[Offroader]

I have a CA and it works fine. I read about the link you put in and I was wondering if it´s possible that I mount this on a hidden space and when the police check my bike I can reduce the speed by turnig this swith before they put it on a rolling road machine. I read that a few Guy's made a 3 speed swith because of this same reason. But don´t know hopw they made it.

Best bet would be to just get Max-E, really worth it in my opinion and you can easily switch between power modes. For the easy and fast charging it is worth it alone for that reason.

You could use a 3 speed switch if you have a cycle analyst v3 or the knob. Hooks up in the same place. I also think you can even hook up a 3 speed switch to your speed controller.

I would maybe ask here because this is where they speak a little bit about it.

http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=63507

 

[Merlin]

little update.....sold my Raptor to a buddy. Building a new one....

catched a last unicorn with 165mm



changes:

- longer Front-Fenders
- shorter Rear-Fenders
- Color up frontlights in Black(Red sucks )
- back to 20s Setup (84v)
- New Rear-LED-light.
- New Handlebar
- New Motor (11,1KV Cromotor v4 aka QSv3)
- New Tires
- New Rims, New Spokes, New Nipples
- New Bling-Bling Brake discs (Hope Blue)
- Kickstand
- Domino Throttle

 

[Merlin]

Still on the Cycle Analyst Side with my Setup. I know Adappto did their Job. But still need a USABLE PAS here in Germany, and the Adappto is still pre pre pre alpha alpha comparing to a CA.

ordered in October this 13,2Kg bitch:

badass Phase wires:

Hateful Grinding jobs.....

Long Journey starts here....

a bit difficult to see,
the new Motor has more plastic around the axle. Brakedisc still dont fit. Disc inside diameter is internation Standard. Yes, how to squeeze in those (new) fat Phase wires isnt easy. But it sucks again to grind the discs down to make it fit....

now the disc runs free....

Kelly Controller Shield.....now with white stripes on the Side to close all "openings". Its from a DIY Market. 3mm weather Proof "something"

to bad Sabvoton never catched it that i wanted a black housing. so for the bling factor, i painted the controller last 2cm in Black (Thats the Part you can see from the Side)

a new try to make the bike completely silent....even on accelerating. (everybody knows the (resonance)sounds from the motor and chassis.
Its to fill Gaps between walls for Silent in Office Bueros

Swing arm completely filled with that stuff:

finished grinding frame for CA, USB etc:

Carbon Cover... it protects the surface, as i have often some packages on top of the frame for "delivery"

oh look at that

as i told:
red sucks on this bike....

lacing the backwheel......thought i had all pain allready survived ....
this 10G Spokes from Holmes in Black had a nice look. i cant tell anything about quality of his 10G Spokes. But the "Moped Nipples" you get are the worst crap i ever had in my Hands.
Ok, i am from Germany and HH is not guilty using 40TPI Threads on their Spokes nipples that u cant get in Germany. But THIS NIPPLES ARGH.....
i had some wrenches....the small tiny one everyone knows. laced in the motor everthing is fine.......
looks good so far. but.....

...trying to center the wheel + truing wasnt possible for me. the Nipples are weak/soft like marshmallows. Maybe their good for frontwheels.
My first thought was; wtf is it aluminium? because they feel very light. catched a n52 magnet....but it stick like hell on it. so its kind of "iron"....

searched the internet about nipples. found only one in the UK, but he wanted 15 british pound for shipping nipples. to make it short: wasted 80$ for spokes an nipples, and buyed some
Metric German Spoke Stuff. 10G are 3,2mm, Germans are 3,0mm and M3,5 Thread. So i could buy some really good quality Motocross Nipples. (6,4mm x 18mm)
Fits Perfekt MMP Rims.

From left to right:
German M3,5 Motocross Nipples / Holmes "Moped Nipples" / Normal M3,5 Nipple for Mopeds

as you can see, the Holmes Nipples are a bit bigger then normal M3,5 Nipples. But only 0,3g more weight.

Pissed of the loud sounds making tiny rocks in your steel fenders?
i dont know the word for it, but this stuff you had under your car to protect from rocks and rust.

paint it (matt) black....

i like it

no scratching inside. Perfect matched with the Tire

I know its a bit low. but have to tried it first before cut it again to high. (low low low )

three long waiting weeks later with new Spokes....

i will upload some pics from "finished" nipples + bike later.

 

[snellemin]

Looking good Merlin.

 

[Rix]

Still on the Cycle Analyst Side with my Setup. I know Adappto did their Job. But still need a USABLE PAS here in Germany, and the Adappto is still pre pre pre alpha alpha comparing to a CA.a new try to make the bike completely silent....even on accelerating. (everybody knows the (resonance)sounds from the motor and chassis.Its to fill Gaps between walls for Silent in Office Bueroslacing the backwheel......thought i had all pain allready survived ....
this 10G Spokes from Holmes in Black had a nice look. i cant tell anything about quality of his 10G Spokes. But the "Moped Nipples" you get are the worst crap i ever had in my Hands.Ok, i am from Germany and HH is not guilty using 40TPI Threads on their Spokes nipples that u cant get in Germany. But THIS NIPPLES ARGH.....
i had some wrenches....the small tiny one everyone knows. laced in the motor everthing is fine.......
looks good so far. but.....Metric German Spoke Stuff. 10G are 3,2mm, Germans are 3,0mm and M3,5 Thread. So i could buy some really good quality Motocross Nipples. (6,4mm x 18mm)Fits Perfekt MMP Rims.From left to right:
German M3,5 Motocross Nipples / Holmes "Moped Nipples" / Normal M3,5 Nipple for Mopeds
i will upload some pics from "finished" nipples + bike later.

Very nice Merlin, beautiful work you have done. I am with you and use 6.4x18mm spoke nipples for all my rear wheel lacing jobs. They are tougher and I can really wrench down on them to move the rim over during truing if needed.

 

[Merlin]

- changed the brakes from hope to Magura (because dot5 eats the magura switch *doh)
- added hydraulic Brake switch for Regen
- added 12v horn
- broke my mirror.....again

 

[snellemin]

I'm linking your lights man.

 

[Merlin]

was a cheap deal on ebay.

http://supernova-lights.com/en/supernova-e3-e-bike-v1260


normal price about 125€

i got one for 35€ because the ring was red (painted black)
and no light holder. Buyed 2 of them for 3 bugs on amazon

sure, the china stuff is bright light hell, but these lights are for street use and have diffusing glas.(that you dont blend the other peoples on the street)

 

[sonnetg]

hi Merlin...very nice build. I am curious how you got the E3 lights mounted on the shock? Did you simply bolt it in? or are there adapter available to mount these headlights on the fork?

Really nice build. Looks solid. Keep the pics coming

 

[Merlin]

it has M3 Threads on the Backside.

 

[sonnetg]

it has M3 Threads on the Backside.

Nice. I am not sure if this is the standard for DH forks, but it sure is nice for Fox to think it through. I really liked how you mounted the lights on the fork instead of the handlebar. A job well done, mate!

 

[Merlin]

yes this place for lights is perfect because your light doesnt go up and down as it overtakes the suspension.

everyone who is thinking about "how to use regen brake"......INSTALL A HYDRAULIC SWITCH.....this is soooooooooooooooooooooooooo nice.

 

[izeman]

"how to use regen brake"......INSTALL A HYDRAULIC SWITCH.....this is soooooooooooooooooooooooooo nice.

this is by far the most professional approach. but you need to have all the tools to do it right (cut the hoses, crimp the connectors), and you have to refill and breath your brakes after that. that is what made me rethink that.
what switch did you use?

 

[Merlin]

the "only one" i know....Maguras. You get it für 21€ + shipping (or 29€ from EBS)

i avoided it also, as i thought its soooooo complicated.

to be honest: it is easy like changing bicycle tires.

Hope Brakes you can bleed like all motorcycle brakes.
Just a piece of tube, 8mm wrench, dot 5 fluid, sharp knife. thats it.

Maguras have a bleeding screw. (i was surprised that this screw is the same that is also build in the hopes, so i dont needed this special screw.
they describe it in his manual step by step. and you dont loose warranty cutting the hoses.

2 syringe....one just stuck it in the lever, the other at the caliper.(The bigger one is filled with their royal blood stuff)
now just push an pull the big one till there comes no bubbles out. Very Easy.

but youtube is full of movies how to do that with different brands.


i was really pissed that i have to change to another brand, just because Dot brakefluid kills the switch. But this is so nice, that i changed to magura.

 

[izeman]

so do you know of a DOT approved switch? because i don't want to change my avid brakes. bleeding them is no big deal. did it before, but i thought you need a special tool for installing the switch.

 

[Merlin]

nope. no special tool. Its like shorten your brake hoses.
If i have found a DOT Brakeswitch that is usable for "Bicylces" i havent changed my hopes

on Ebay you can buy DOT Brakeswitches. But they are ...ehhh....