Re: infineon 18 fets''houston wii have a problem'' (updated)

I donno man, you may have damaged something on the board in the process when you laced the traces. But to me if the controller runs smooth and everything is running right, then seems to me that the MCU is not updating the current right. I donno what else drives the controller to let more current go though... Maybe another controller guru knows something. :(

Work on your soldering skills some, You may have some cold joints on your copper wire. Use flux too, then clean.

Here is a 12 mosfet I did recently, See the 2 extra shunts on the back side hehe. I usually dump the solder on the main traces so I have a nice flat trace to start with. 80W Iron makes short work of this stuff. 40W with a big tip will do, but its slow work. I make sure all the solder melts together.
 

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I don't think i touch someting because i just add the copper for more cooling on the top of the original trace and also use a magnetic bracelet for computer repair
I start to losing patience now and maybe sold everything and continu to pollute the air like everybody does if I have to lose money again
 
ok feel better i just release some pressure and ready to find my problem , what can be the problem ? short , capacitor, fail mosfets i will open the controller soon
 
The controller is running smooth and fine, then its not the mosfets, and I really doubt is a capacitor either. Take it apart and scan over the board and make sure nothing is burned and there is no metal fragments shorting anything anywhere. If everything looks right and good then; Like I said before, I would start by replacing the MCU... Bad thing is its tiny and you need to be skilled to replace it correctly.
 
TMaster said:
The controller is running smooth and fine, then its not the mosfets, and I really doubt is a capacitor either. Take it apart and scan over the board and make sure nothing is burned and there is no metal fragments shorting anything anywhere. If everything looks right and good then; Like I said before, I would start by replacing the MCU... Bad thing is its tiny and you need to be skilled to replace it correctly.


Tmaster thank you so much for your encouragement i will ligth up candle for you tonigth :lol: :lol: you what it make me feel sad because if i have to send it back to lyen
i will have to wait a month before i can use my ebike



hey EDward there a warranty about the MCU ? :lol: :lol: :lol: just kidding its better then say bad thing
 
Take it apart and take some large pics, and post them, so we can see inside before you send it back. I'd work on it for ya, but Im too far away!
 
TMaster said:
Take it apart and take some large pics, and post them, so we can see inside before you send it back. I'd work on it for ya, but Im too far away!

ok here i find maybe the problem there was one capacitor its strange because before ressemble the controller lift them maybe 1cm to put some silicone and push them back so them can sit on the silicon , i use silicone 500dergree for the vibration is good. its was very easy to see the capacitor diference 30 second after i open up the controller
 

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Yes that capacitor is blown and I would replace both of them to be safe. I see you have some solder residue on that mosfet screw. Take a look at your entire board and make sure nothing has solder where its not supposed to be. You might have something shorting. More pics if possible...
 
You need a precharge resistor with that controller, that will help to prevent further capacitor damage.

Do you know what value your shunt is?
 
Mike1 said:
You need a precharge resistor with that controller, that will help to prevent further capacitor damage.

Do you know what value your shunt is?

its lyen controller and i think its 230ohms but not sure and why ? but anyway i will try to find caps first see what happen after
 
With a 230 mohm shunt you should get about twice the current that it shows in the software. That standard 4 wire shunt that is fitted to the 18 fet boards is much higher than that and results a pretty low current limit. You can increase the current limit quite a lot by programming the board as a smaller type (eg. set board type to EB212), this tells the controller chip that it has a higher value shunt and so the limits go up. A lower value shunt is always a better option though.
 
Mike1 said:
With a 230 mohm shunt you should get about twice the current that it shows in the software. That standard 4 wire shunt that is fitted to the 18 fet boards is much higher than that and results a pretty low current limit. You can increase the current limit quite a lot by programming the board as a smaller type (eg. set board type to EB212), this tells the controller chip that it has a higher value shunt and so the limits go up. A lower value shunt is always a better option though.

There a other small capacitor on the middle and it rated 100 volt and do i have replace it if want to buy some 160 volt panasonic ?
 
AFAIK lyens 18fet is supplier with a 1mohm shunt. This "should" be replaced with 250mohm shunt in order to trick the controller. Then the programming should be started out real small like 10 amps. Feeling for controller heat and "mosfet stress" then ramp it up slowly till you are satisfied with the power. If it blows before you are satisfied, you may need more or better mosfets. etc. The setting different board type seems to work a little bit. Nothing like a good shunt soldering though !!!!

Good luck on the repairs.
 
hydro-one said:
AFAIK lyens 18fet is supplier with a 1mohm shunt. This "should" be replaced with 250mohm shunt in order to trick the controller. Then the programming should be started out real small like 10 amps. Feeling for controller heat and "mosfet stress" then ramp it up slowly till you are satisfied with the power. If it blows before you are satisfied, you may need more or better mosfets. etc. The setting different board type seems to work a little bit. Nothing like a good shunt soldering though !!!!

Good luck on the repairs.

afaik lyen ? you mean fake lyen supplier ? i bougth direct from Edward
 
lifepo4ever said:
hydro-one said:
AFAIK lyens 18fet is supplier with a 1mohm shunt. This "should" be replaced with 250mohm shunt in order to trick the controller. Then the programming should be started out real small like 10 amps. Feeling for controller heat and "mosfet stress" then ramp it up slowly till you are satisfied with the power. If it blows before you are satisfied, you may need more or better mosfets. etc. The setting different board type seems to work a little bit. Nothing like a good shunt soldering though !!!!

Good luck on the repairs.

afaik lyen ? you mean fake lyen supplier ? i bougth direct from Edward

thats got to be quote of the week :wink:

Ian :D
 
Dingo2024 said:
lifepo4ever said:
hydro-one said:
AFAIK lyens 18fet is supplier with a 1mohm shunt. This "should" be replaced with 250mohm shunt in order to trick the controller. Then the programming should be started out real small like 10 amps. Feeling for controller heat and "mosfet stress" then ramp it up slowly till you are satisfied with the power. If it blows before you are satisfied, you may need more or better mosfets. etc. The setting different board type seems to work a little bit. Nothing like a good shunt soldering though !!!!

Good luck on the repairs.

afaik lyen ? you mean fake lyen supplier ? i bougth direct from Edward

thats got to be quote of the week :wink:

Ian :D

i am happy to make you laugth :D :D
 
lifepo4ever said:
Dingo2024 said:
lifepo4ever said:
afaik lyen ? you mean fake lyen supplier ? i bougth direct from Edward

thats got to be quote of the week :wink:

Ian :D

i am happy to make you laugth :D :D

thanks man for not taking offence............its good to laugh and smile in this world :wink:

Ian :D
 
ok today i receive a message from lyen and he send me the capacitors for free, he a have a big heart , its was not is fault at all i puffed one, because I try to modified the controller by my self and made some error he still help me thank you Edward :D :D
 
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