powerpeddles
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I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
That is a battery, no?what I have seen in the documentation for Bafang systems, is a mounting tray that is mounted below the top plane of a bike carrier.
Do you ride under always dry conditions? If not, you're going to want to move the rack up far enough to put a fender under it, and put the controller between the fender and the rack. Otherwise the tire is going to soak the controller, and water is going to get into it (unless it's completely potted, with fully really truly waterproof connectors and wires (or no connectors and just direct wiring from inside controller to inside each thing it's wired to including motor/etc), it's not waterproof). The water may not be enough to cause damage, but it does happen, and it's usually easier (or at least cheaper) to prevent (or at least minimize) than fix.I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
I'm using one of these, since I don't have eyelets for a rear rack. I modified it by adding a piece of aluminum on the front, so that front mounting hardware is on the top, rather than bottom, to allow the larger controller to extend further forward (with the rear butted up against the rear reflector mount). The space has been sufficient for a KT 18 FET, and PowerVelocity 18 FET, and now a Sabvoton knockoff (they fit within the width of the rear leg hardware). I mounted the controller under the rack using black 1/2" wide zip ties. I used it on two different frames and wheel sizes, so the adjustability makes it pretty versitile.I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
It's always dry but I do ride through water wet grass Etc but I'm never riding in a downpour, this is a question I asked the people at grin regarding the phase Runner they told me that the product has a stainless steel case etc etc and I asked the question of connections they didn't look to be waterproof at the unit, but they went to the standard. This is a DIY product, etc. Etc. Which is fine but I don't have a unit to inspect and look at in advance to know exactly how it's going to perform if it gets wet but it is what it is I appreciate the detailed response.Do you ride under always dry conditions? If not, you're going to want to move the rack up far enough to put a fender under it, and put the controller between the fender and the rack. Otherwise the tire is going to soak the controller, and water is going to get into it (unless it's completely potted, with fully really truly waterproof connectors and wires (or no connectors and just direct wiring from inside controller to inside each thing it's wired to including motor/etc), it's not waterproof). The water may not be enough to cause damage, but it does happen, and it's usually easier (or at least cheaper) to prevent (or at least minimize) than fix.
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.You are my hero,
I love that build, OK so what are you running there
How wide are those tires?
Is the controller between the bag and the seat?
What controller are you using
What motor?
What brakes?
how are dealing with sparks when remove the controller from the battery?
So it sounds like your set up is on par with this?It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.
Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch
PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
It sound like you are running a most cost effective version of thisIt's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.
Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch
PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.
Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch
PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
So it sounds like you're running a more cost-effective version of this with the phase RunnerIt's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.
Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch
PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.