Rear rack contoller mounting options

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Apr 18, 2023
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California
I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
 

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what I have seen in the documentation for Bafang systems, is a mounting tray that is mounted below the top plane of a bike carrier.
That is a battery, no?

OP, post photos of the controller, and its dimensions. Then we can give you better suggestions. You already posted photos of your bike and rack, just need to see the controller and if it has mounting ears.
 
I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
Do you ride under always dry conditions? If not, you're going to want to move the rack up far enough to put a fender under it, and put the controller between the fender and the rack. Otherwise the tire is going to soak the controller, and water is going to get into it (unless it's completely potted, with fully really truly waterproof connectors and wires (or no connectors and just direct wiring from inside controller to inside each thing it's wired to including motor/etc), it's not waterproof). The water may not be enough to cause damage, but it does happen, and it's usually easier (or at least cheaper) to prevent (or at least minimize) than fix.
 
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I have mounted them on the bottom of the rear racks, Fenders help keep them dry, but it looks better inside a plastic controller box. However, the last time I did it, water got through a 1/4" hole and the case become a bathtub, Took a while, but the water seeped in,. Now I drill a hole in the case and the water drains out,
 
I am looking for ideas on where to mount a controller on my rear rack, I'm looking at a 30A 12 mosfet controller and want a clean install, this will he a commute, light trail bike use case
I'm using one of these, since I don't have eyelets for a rear rack. I modified it by adding a piece of aluminum on the front, so that front mounting hardware is on the top, rather than bottom, to allow the larger controller to extend further forward (with the rear butted up against the rear reflector mount). The space has been sufficient for a KT 18 FET, and PowerVelocity 18 FET, and now a Sabvoton knockoff (they fit within the width of the rear leg hardware). I mounted the controller under the rack using black 1/2" wide zip ties. I used it on two different frames and wheel sizes, so the adjustability makes it pretty versitile.
s-l1600.jpg

I've had to replace this rack once due to stress failure. The rear adjustable legs telescope out, but need enough overlap to avoid problems. I had the first rack extended too far, so the legs were only an inch or so overlapped, and the hollow upper leg broke where the locking screws were. That only lasted 1500 miles or so. The current one has several thousand, and a lot of bumpy offroad, without failure. The best part is, it's only like $20.

I don't ride in the rain if I can help it, but I go through puddles and a do some mud riding. The Sabvoton knockoff currently on the bike is pretty well sealed with rubber gaskets, but the KT and PV definitely weren't waterproof, but I never had an issue. I ran a fender for a while with the KT.

e-flag-sm-jpg.330777
 
You are my hero,

I love that build, OK so what are you running there

How wide are those tires?
Is the controller between the bag and the seat?
What controller are you using
What motor?
What brakes?
how are dealing with sparks when remove the controller from the battery?
 
Do you ride under always dry conditions? If not, you're going to want to move the rack up far enough to put a fender under it, and put the controller between the fender and the rack. Otherwise the tire is going to soak the controller, and water is going to get into it (unless it's completely potted, with fully really truly waterproof connectors and wires (or no connectors and just direct wiring from inside controller to inside each thing it's wired to including motor/etc), it's not waterproof). The water may not be enough to cause damage, but it does happen, and it's usually easier (or at least cheaper) to prevent (or at least minimize) than fix.
It's always dry but I do ride through water wet grass Etc but I'm never riding in a downpour, this is a question I asked the people at grin regarding the phase Runner they told me that the product has a stainless steel case etc etc and I asked the question of connections they didn't look to be waterproof at the unit, but they went to the standard. This is a DIY product, etc. Etc. Which is fine but I don't have a unit to inspect and look at in advance to know exactly how it's going to perform if it gets wet but it is what it is I appreciate the detailed response.
 
You are my hero,

I love that build, OK so what are you running there

How wide are those tires?
Is the controller between the bag and the seat?
What controller are you using
What motor?
What brakes?
how are dealing with sparks when remove the controller from the battery?
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.

Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch

PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
 
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.

Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch

PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
So it sounds like your set up is on par with this?
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.

Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch

PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
It sound like you are running a most cost effective version of this
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.

Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch

PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
 
It's not an easy bike to ride, since I'm running 72V, but it's fun. I don't let anyone ride it unless I crank the power way down. More of a one person bike, so something to consider.

Tires are plus sized (2.8) and 24". When I was running 26" tires, I had rack legs extended more to get the controller mounted, but as able to lower it with the 24" wheels.
The controller is on the bottom side of the rack, below the bag. You can see the silver cooling fins. The box between the bag and seat is my connector wiring box
The controller is a cheap $70 Sabvoton knock off from Amazon, shunt modded to 90A max, but I limit to 6kW for normal riding using my Cycle Analyst. It looks like it's $88 now, but you can find the same knock off on ebay an other places, some lower and some higher in price. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B8CRXGTW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Motor is a Leaf 5T direct drive
Brakes are cheap Tektro knockoffs, 4 piston hydraulic, cheap floating 203mm rotors
I have a breaker/switch and a button to precharge, used before flipping the switch

PS. A lot of people balk at spending $120 for a Cycle Analyst (which they mistake as a display), when it's the CA and controller combo that should be compared. The CA adds all of the missing functionality that generic controller don't have, and becomes an economical choice when you pair it with a cheap high powered, but featureless controller. The combo will come in cheaper than a high powered programmable controller. I have the same controller as a spare that I can just swap out if I ever fry this one, and it would cost $70, rather than $250 to get it back running.
So it sounds like you're running a more cost-effective version of this with the phase Runner

 
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