Recommendations for a rim

You may be on to something here. OP does not have sufficient funds to purchase components worthy of the extra-heavy duty cycles he subjects them to (high daily mileage, high speeds, rough terrain, heavy loads, etc.) and has suffered several catastrophic failures in the past. Then complains of "cheap (Chinese?) crap" but replaces it with similar?
There's nothing more cost-effective than doing your own work better than the professionals do. But to redeem this valuable offer, you have to be able to do that. Not applicable in this case.
 
You may be on to something here. OP does not have sufficient funds to purchase components worthy of the extra-heavy duty cycles he subjects them to (high daily mileage, high speeds, rough terrain, heavy loads, etc.) and has suffered several catastrophic failures in the past. Then complains of "cheap (Chinese?) crap" but replaces it with similar?
EDIT: JUST TO BE CLEAR WE are DISCUSSING TWO DIFFERENT BUILDS!

The first build: The rhyno lite Rim has the Sapim ebike 13g/12G butted spokes(The ones grin tech recommends), not the cheap ones. This was a rebuild. I was never able to true the wheel properly, perhaps because I messed up spoke sizing, they are a little short. about 2 mm. as far as I can TELL this wheel is holding up, it's just out of true. I haven't ridden on it much.

The second wheel: I bought a second hub motor from the 9c cloners. It comes with a crappy rim and the 12 G spokes. This is the current rim I am having problems with i.e. constantly breaking spokes, squeeky noises from spokes, possibly cracking internally where tube meets rim, etc. The spokes on THIS WHEEL went slack pretty quickly. AS soon as I started hitting a little bit of gravel, I had problems.

Wow this thread went nuts.

No 99, the reason I had a catastrophic failure was because I did crazy gravel racing on a 105 degree day and cooked my rim. OF course the cheap rim that comes with that motor wasn't going to be able to handle that. I almost wiped out and went off a cliff.
 
Last edited:
No 99, the reason I had a catastrophic failure was because I did crazy gravel racing on a 105 degree day and cooked my rim. OF course the cheap rim that comes with that motor wasn't going to be able to handle that. I almost wiped out and went off a cliff.
You've suffered several catastrophic failures in your ebiking career, no? Usually attributed to cheap gear? (There is a possibility I am not remembering correctly, my apologies if that is not the case.)

So what's the takeaway? Rebuild the wheel with a good quality (usually means not cheap) rim and better spokes? (Trying to get back to your renewed topic in your post #66 in this thread.)
 
The spokes on THIS WHEEL went slack pretty quickly. AS soon as I started hitting a little bit of gravel, I had problems.
Sounds like the factory didn't stress relieve the wheel or at least didn't do a good job of stress relieving the wheel?

Do you know what Stress relieving is? I am assuming you have never heard of this. If so Google "Bicycle wheel stress relieving". Jobst Brandt also has very good information on Stress relieving.

Since you have the tools my advice to you (after learning about it) is to thoroughly stress relieve the next cheap factory wheel before you or someone else rides it. Even if the wheel you are stress relieving is just going to see light duty by a lightweight rider it will still be good practice.
 
Last edited:
Sounds like the factory didn't stress relieve the wheel or at least didn't do a good job of stress relieving the wheel?

Do you know what Stress relieving is? I am assuming you have never heard of this. If so Google "Bicycle wheel stress relieving". Jobst Brandt also has very good information on Stress relieving.

Since you have the tools my advice to you (after learning about it) is to thoroughly stress relieve the next cheap factory wheel before you or someone else rides it. Even if the wheel you are stress relieving is just going to see light duty by a lightweight rider it will still be good practice.
YEah I've heard of stress relieving wheels. I did not think to do that, perhaps that was the right thing to do.
 
You've suffered several catastrophic failures in your ebiking career, no? Usually attributed to cheap gear? (There is a possibility I am not remembering correctly, my apologies if that is not the case.)

So what's the takeaway? Rebuild the wheel with a good quality (usually means not cheap) rim and better spokes? (Trying to get back to your renewed topic in your post #66 in this thread.)
I've broken racks a couple of times, had a seat post snap from one of those seatpost racks. I've had a front tire blow out because the they misprinted the max tire pressure I believe (or it was just a cheap tire). Thankfully all this happened at low speed. Most of it happened just because I overloaded the bike.

Oh and on my old bike I didn't set up the rear brakes quite right and it was raining, slammed right into a car, wrecking the bike. I was ok, bike took all the damage. My face did break their windshield, no concussion though.
 
YEah I've heard of stress relieving wheels. I did not think to do that, perhaps that was the right thing to do.
Here is what Jobst Brandt says about stress relieving:


Only the lightest riders on smooth roads might be spared failures with a wheel whose spokes have not been stress-relieved.
 
Seatpost snap, windshield> face! Surprised you still ride Ebikes! You are one tough cookie. :bigthumb:
Yeah I've been doing this for years, and only now I think I've ironed out most of the kinks. I've been hit by cars on regular bicycles too, Americans are just huge on car culture, it's pretty sad. Not much safe bike infrastructure or pedestrian for that matter. No wonder so many are so large.
 
Last edited:
OK'

I've had it with this wheel. Yesterday I had the wheel pretty much perfect, all spokes tensioned evenly, in true enough for this crap rim. Today I found 4 spokes are slack and one snapped.

I need to get a new rim, I am tired of swapping out spokes that break everyday. IT's a waste of time. and time is money $$$.

IS THERE a rim that is heavy duty enough that I can get for $ 50? I don't want to spend $100 like I did last time. Please link to the site. No amazon please I don't have prime and they get you on shipping, the f'ers.

Also should I drill holes in my hub motor? I heard it makes it more water proof, because water can get it out. kind of seems like internet nonsense to me from grin tech.

DRilling holes also make it shed heat better? I've almost overheated plenty of times.

Or is it better to go the statorade route with oil and that red rusteloum stuff sprayed inside? That makes more sense to me logically. To keep it waterproof and cool. I am torturing this motor. Riding in rain and snow, but also it get's to be 110 degrees everyday now. I've definitely heated this thing way up.

PLEASE dO not link to AMAZON! I will not support that crap
 
Last edited:
This looks fair to me. Tell me if this site is legit. I am not going to buy counterfeit stuff. Thank you


26" SE Racing J24SG Double-Wall Rim IN ANODIZED COLORS​


Is this rim a presta or shrader? I need the shrader

Can anyone get a spec sheet for the weinman DM30 or the J24SG? I can't find one on all these websites, yet you guys recommended these rims...
 
Your link is broke.
26" SE Racing J24SG Double-Wall Rim IN ANODIZED COLORS


What ever color you choose. I would buy matching color spokes.

DM30


J24SG


See no specifications?

Here:
Says - Valve: Schrader
 
It says shrader/presta. That's confusing but whatever. Isn't the presta valve more high tech? I do have an adapter for a presta valve to shrader to use at gas station compressers
 
Isn't the presta valve more high tech?
Don't fall for that. You really don't want to muddy up your topic here with a multipage rambling side journey thru the schrader/presta controversies, do you?

"Look at virtually every other pneumatic thing that requires air inflation: cars, airplanes, plumbing, even Dakar rally suspension, they all use Schrader valves. If Presta was the superior valve to be used, other industries would use them."

From "This is why it’s time to stop using Presta valves."

Easy enough to ream out a presta hole for schrader. And also easy enough to insert a grommet into a schrader hole for a presta innertube.

IS THERE a rim that is heavy duty enough that I can get for $ 50?
So your budget is $50 shipped? Sorry I don't have any recommendation for you. :(
 
Easy enough to ream out a presta hole for schrader. And also easy enough to insert a grommet into a schrader hole for a presta innertube.


So your budget is $50 shipped? Sorry I don't have any recommendation for you. :(

In the bad old days, quality double walled aluminum rims were typically 19mm wide. So the difference between a 6.5mm hole and a 9mm hole made a difference for gross rim strength.

Any rim at least 25mm wide really doesn't care which valve hole it gets. So the right choice of valves is obvious-- you want Schrader valves, which in my observation have less than half the modes of failure that Presta valves have.

The SE Bikes J24SG should cost about $50 retail at a local bike shop, which will absorb shipping costs if it can be added to a regularly occuring J&B Importers order. The similarly sized, similarly chonky Weinmann DM30 should cost less than that. Both these rims are strong enough that the rims are most likely not the chief problem if they fail.
 
I'm not terribly impressed with any of these rims being suggested. Besides 24mm inner width is questionable for a 55mm tire anyway.

 

Attachments

  • IMG_20230711_223226.jpg
    IMG_20230711_223226.jpg
    143.5 KB · Views: 4
Last edited:
Well what you guys said would happen, happened. The rim where I over tightened the spokes now has constantly breaking spokes. I break spokes all the time. I have plenty of spare spokes from another hub motor which was totaled, just keep swapping them out. The wheel comes out of true every month or so, depending on how much riding I am doing. These are the larger 12G spokes you guys hate.

Should I replace the rim? I've been holding off because it was $130 last time, as cheap as I could get it. I couldn't even get the wheel true and I got the wrong size spokes. I don't want to put any more more money into this build, because I am sick and tired of sore shoulders and arms, because often I ride 50 miles a day. My hands are getting destroyed from constantly cycling all the time. I think it's time to get a car again. Honestly I need and want an electric motorcycle, but obviously cannot and will probably not have one for at least 20 years.

It will be some time before I can buy a car though, so in the mean time this is what I've got. IS it absolute necessary to replace the rim or should I just keep doing what I am doing? Swapping out spokes and truing the wheel on the go? I've gotten pretty good at truing wheels out of the stand. I can never seem to get the wheel perfectly true, honestly I'VE never been able to get a wheel perfectly laterally true, and CERTAINLY never been able to get a wheel radially true AT ALL.

I will follow the recommendations laid out here though if someone cares to lay them out.

Thank you


There are electric 'motorcyles' out there for under $4500 USD. They are really dirtbikes but you can probably get away with riding them on pavement if the cops in your area are not too jerkish. You can probably get a used one for maybe $2000-3000. Or maybe get a CYC 1500+ watt motor? That will go pretty fast.

By the way, you are riding fast on pavement with a heavy bike that has rim brakes? Can you stop OK? What happens on a steep hill?
 
I'm not terribly impressed with any of these rims being suggested. Besides 24mm inner width is questionable for a 55mm tire anyway.


55mm tire is a 2.2 tire. That's XC, it's between road/gravel and modern MTB. It's going to be perfectly 110% fine on a 24mm ID rim. XC rims are 18-25 mm wide internally. Which means he's fine, the rim width is the least of his problems lol. This tire rim stuff is so overrated. People put 2.4 tires on 40mm rims, they put 2.6 tires on 25mm rims. To each their own.

A skinny tire on a wide rim is going to flatten out the center and bring the side knobs up into contact with the ground a lot or all the time. That will slightly widen the tire's width, and increase traction at the expensive of rolling efficiency. The wider tire on a skinny rim is going to round out the center more and keep the side knobs way down on the side. That will slightly (or a lot) narrow the tire's width, and increase speed at the expense of grip and stability. It will make for a more wild ride. I've done it on a couple of tires. Fast as hell but sometimes sketchy.
 
55mm tire is a 2.2 tire. That's XC, it's between road/gravel and modern MTB. It's going to be perfectly 110% fine on a 24mm ID rim. XC rims are 18-25 mm wide internally. Which means he's fine, the rim width is the least of his problems lol. This tire rim stuff is so overrated. People put 2.4 tires on 40mm rims, they put 2.6 tires on 25mm rims. To each their own.

A skinny tire on a wide rim is going to flatten out the center and bring the side knobs up into contact with the ground a lot or all the time. That will slightly widen the tire's width, and increase traction at the expensive of rolling efficiency. The wider tire on a skinny rim is going to round out the center more and keep the side knobs way down on the side. That will slightly (or a lot) narrow the tire's width, and increase speed at the expense of grip and stability. It will make for a more wild ride. I've done it on a couple of tires. Fast as hell but sometimes sketchy.
Agreed. No matter the rim size I seem to have a really hard time mounting an armored tire.
 
Ok, actually I think I spent way too much orignally. Rim prices have fallen... alot like half off. I guess now is the time to buy,I can pick up a new rim plus shipping for $60. I couldn't do that six months ago...
 
55mm tire is a 2.2 tire. That's XC, it's between road/gravel and modern MTB. It's going to be perfectly 110% fine on a 24mm ID rim. XC rims are 18-25 mm wide internally. Which means he's fine, the rim width is the least of his problems lol. This tire rim stuff is so overrated. People put 2.4 tires on 40mm rims, they put 2.6 tires on 25mm rims. To each their own.
Remember XC is lightweight guys on lightweight bikes doing a lot of climbing under purely human power. A situation where weight is very important. This stated, despite the importance of lightweight in XC racing, the trend of these riders is moving away from the narrower rims of the past and towards 30mm inner width on a very slightly wider tire, perhaps 58mm.

OP's situation is quite different than an XC rider in that he is not a lightweight rider. OP is a heavier rider (at least I get the impression he is) on a heavy cargo ebike that he needs to carry 50 lbs cargo and might even carry another passenger therefore I would not base my decision on what XC racers use for equipment.

Sure a 24mm inner width rim is compatible (though not optimal) with a 55mm tire according to the chart but I wouldn't never want to use 24mm for the OP's application given equal quality rims in narrow vs. medium width.

P.S. For those who didn't clink on the link or look at the chart 19mm to 24mm is considered compatible but not optimal for a 55mm tire. Same goes for a 36mm to 40mm internal width rim. Optimal width for 55mm wide tire is 25mm to 35mm internal width according to the chart.
 
Last edited:
There are electric 'motorcyles' out there for under $4500 USD. They are really dirtbikes but you can probably get away with riding them on pavement if the cops in your area are not too jerkish. You can probably get a used one for maybe $2000-3000. Or maybe get a CYC 1500+ watt motor? That will go pretty fast.

By the way, you are riding fast on pavement with a heavy bike that has rim brakes? Can you stop OK? What happens on a steep hill?
Where are cops not "jerky?" I have seen people doing that occasionally. I always slow down to a crawl when I see a cop. Not sure how long those people will be able to keep doing what they're doing.
 
Back
Top