Reid's Stealth Cruiser: Float your eBOAT? Ideas, anyone? p22

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When I received my Nine Continents Kit from them it was very fast, very professionally packed, everything was there, and I couldn't have been more pleased.

-methods
 
Reid Welch said:
pushin' flowers, 'stead of pedals.
Oh, hell,
my luck,
with hardened
metals.


pushin' Petals, 'stead of pedals. 8)


Regarding the build:

I love that tire. I've always been a fan of Schwalbe. The marathon plus runs anywhere from $30 to $40. And I also love the protector for the wires. It looks like those folks don't skimp on the quality, although the eZee kit is a little pricey demonstrating that you do in fact get what you pay for.

Nice Selection!
 
:D Ha ha! Thank you, TPA! Great humor!
_______________

Much news to report (much ado about very little, that is!) :D

Coming as soon as daylight arrives:

Video and or still pictures comparing the newly arrived eZee front wheel hub motor
against the plain, existing, front wheel of the cruiser. And I will explain why I will choose to mount the Big Hank
fat balloon tire to the new wheel, instead of its supplied, top-quality Schwalbe Marathon-Plus tire: a super tire, itself.
_______________

Also: I went to Coral Way Bike Shop---recall, I could not get the coaster brake back together?
It's all a matter of KWYADAWYADI: Raymond there, put the brake parts together in sixty seconds.
I took some still pictures of the operation and will post them here soon. They are such great guys there;
would not even charge me for their time (super busy shop, holiday season makes them even busier).
So I tipped a ten spot, which Raymond tried to refuse. Nice guys!
_______________

OK! More images and video SOON.
This geezer cruiser is rocking and rolling! And sometimes,
falling over. :wink:
 
Reid Welch said:
So I tipped a ten spot, which Raymond tried to refuse. Nice guys!

I find a 6 pack of beer is readily accepted for 'freeby' jobs ...

Good to hear its together anywayz Reid...not long now and you will be mixing it up with the Lycras :: wink ::

Kim
 
AussieJester said:
Reid Welch said:
So I tipped a ten spot, which Raymond tried to refuse. Nice guys!
I find a 6 pack of beer is readily accepted for 'freeby' jobs ...

Good to hear its together anywayz Reid...not long now and you will be mixing it up with the Lycras :: wink ::

Kim
Verse:

=Quick-Draw Kim McGraw=

It may just be the world-time difference;
Though, from my vantage of Miami,
Aussies seldom seem to sleep.
And they are happy when they keep
Possession of a six pack.
 
Reid Welch said:
It may just be the world-time difference;
Though, from my vantage of Miami,
Aussies seldom seem to sleep.
And they are happy when they keep
Possession of a six pack.[/color]

hehehe in Australia beer is legal tender Reid LOL

Australia is number 4th ranked country as far as beer consumption behind Germany Ireland and Czeh Rep...which all drink OBVIOUSLY to escape the dreary surroundings :p Aussie just drink coz its freakin hot like a desert here all the bloody time LMAO...also makes fat chicks look good ;-P So yes, its a fair bet if yo bring a 6 pack as form of payment for a 'favor' it will be gladly accepted LoL...
 
Yeah yeah yeah I hear your distant pain, brother. Legal tender in Miami is cash or coke, takes your choice.
We have seen beer in the coolers, in the stores. It is healthier for a body by far than coke or hard liquor.
To any and all big shot drinkers out there: hard liquour is your liver's worst enemy, other than if you don't
pay your coke dealer's running tabulation timely. I am a jester, Mister! :roll:

----
Well, time to get cracking here. Light is good for pictures.
I wonder what I'll break today? Yrs, truly,

Jerry Lewis an' his 'lectric bike.

:D
 
Does any one else have trouble understanding LETTERS used for words?
Reid Welch wrote: KWYADAWYADI Know What You Are Doing And Why You Are Doing It
AussieJester wrote: LMAO Lockheed Martin Astronautics Operations :lol:
 
marty said:
Does any one else have trouble understanding LETTERS used for words?
Reid Welch wrote: KWYADAWYADI Know What You Are Doing And Why You Are Doing It
AussieJester wrote: LMAO Lockheed Martin Astronautics Operations :lol:
Acronyms!
"LMAO" means "laughed my ass off".
KYADAWYADI = "know what you are doing and why you are doing it". It can by pronounced, "kwy-a-da-wy-adi".
I put that acronym (not my invention) into the online acronym dictionary.
-----
Much video to come, guys. I yak without end. It will be hours before the first of the next series of videos is ready,
due to the slow upload speed.

The first video to come next is #9
, and is dedicated to aussie jester. Have some Coke and a Smile?

So, the next posting form will be video section "D".
It will contain both technical and comic video, showing the eZee wheel,
and how I DID NOT "know what I was doing or why I was doing it". :lol: :lol:

Stand by several hours? Go have a beer, or read the other, really good threads here, instead?
Yes, let us let this thread simmer and go do better things than to read of my "work":
Mr. Twombley Twiddles, the dyslexic wheelwronger. :wink:
________________

Here, I say; now what about this Hitler chap?
Who is he and what is he about?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sx_6WekXKcM&fmt=18

:p
 
Reid Welch said:
Legal tender in Miami is cash or coke, takes your choice.

ROFLMAO <--have fun with that one Marty hehehe

Looking forward to the next video installment Reid :)

:: heads off to grab a beer to pour over my cereal while having a read of other posts in the intrim:: :p

Kim
 
All-new and true videos of today, 6 December, 2008:

The series in autoplay form
(if you can stand so much n00b talking in one sitting...drink more beer??)
The segments contain a lot of yakking not necessarily useful to experienced ebikers here at E.S.

#9: eZee enough

#10 eZee motor, fitting the eZee axle to the dropouts

#11 Balloon tire bounce-a-thon

#12 Manual pedaling in circles; first ride!

#13 eZee rolling comedy

# 14 PING Pong
(ad-lib & unedited, just as it happened: a small comedy

--------

At this time the bike is inverted, the wheel motor running, unloaded, just spinning;
powered by a lab power supply. I'll run it this way until the Ping battery arrives, probably on Monday.
A gentle "break in" of the plastic planetary gears. The motor grows ever quieter as the hours pass by.

About ebikes: no variety or style of ebike can ever be the be-all-end all. Terrains, riders, wants, all differ.
All designs will have good and not so good points.....

This one bike, though, is for level ground, and most-generally will be used for exercise and for runs to the store; sometimes hauling a bike trailer full of groceries. I can leave the car at home more often.

Although this documentation process looking unending, the actual conversion is a two hour job
to eZee wheel and Ping-battery any bike. I paid full retail for all my parts,
and do not get a dime of compensation for promoting what is for me, the "best" selection
of bike, motor and battery. I am a happy publicist of good things and good firms.
Ping Battery and Renaissance Bicycle Company are both square-deal firms.

My bike, nicknamed, "Dom" is a stealth cruiser, an honest one;
one that non-ebike people will think, "Gee, that looks easy to make and ride."
It will be an ambassador of sorts for =some= future ebikers; mostly "regular folks";
folks who just want to go 20 or so mph, without sweating and without getting beaten up by rough roads,
or suffer stares and stupid questions from onlookers, wondering "what is that thing, anyway?"

Answer: it is STEALTH and it was easy to build.

Next week Dom rolls electric. Helmet cam. Wild rides. No joking.

Cheers,
Reid
 
Brought forward from the previous page
Reid Welch said:
P1080032.jpg


An hour of "fun" to get through the totally hardened steel:
P1080035.jpg


TBC: Reassembly of the hub, explaining how it works.
It is remarkably well made. Caged balls are not the best ball bearings (the cages rub)
but are used for manufacturing convenience---my old Currie bike had loose balls in both hubs.

R.
I could not get the simple parts back together. The other day I visited Coral Way Bicycle Shop.
Raymond assembled the coaster hub in less than a minute.

I took snapshots.....Ray did the assembly. That's Alberto at the finish,
I call him the Silent Wizard of Can Do, at the counter.

Reassemble a coaster brake just this way:
P1080139.jpg

P1080140.jpg

P1080141.jpg

P1080142.jpg

P1080143.jpg

P1080144.jpg

P1080145.jpg

P1080146.jpg

P1080147.jpg

P1080148.jpg

P1080150.jpg

P1080151.jpg

P1080152.jpg

P1080153.jpg

P1080154.jpg


hth,
r.
 
So that's why I fitted a grease nipple.
It does not require a grease gun to flush the hub with fresh, soft grease.
That's just a big plastic syringe. There's no resistance to grease going in (use a very soft grease).
P1080157.jpg


ADDENDUM, Dec. 14th:

There is no need at all for a grease gun, nor even to modify a glue syringe.
Today I added more grease. Here is how I filled the syringe: by plunging the un-plungered syringe into a tube of grease:
P1080416.jpg


The withdraw the syringe, holding one's finger over the pinhole tip of the syringe so the grease can't "back out":
P1080417.jpg


Now we grease (the zerk has had its check valve/ball/spring removed. INJECT and fill the unit:
P1080418.jpg


Rotate the pedals and fill the unit. The excess will push out the old grease (and the dirt, wear products and grit)
through the side -shields-. This coaster brake and its bearings will never wear out or require "servicing".
Remember: these things only last a thousand miles or so if not =regularly= taken apart and regreased: never done
in real life. NOW we have a simple way to avoid manual labor. The only work now is to inject some grease from time to time,
and then wipe off the extruded grease. This hub is sand and salt-water proof now, for good:
P1080419.jpg


Enough of greasing... lets go into a first-timer's


______________TRUING OF THE WHEEL________________

Rear wheel was out of true
, very wobbly side to side, though tight--just not fine tuned.
I have never turned a spoke nipple before.
Read "How to true a wobbly wheel". Inspiring.
The bike shop is so busy this week. Do it myself? A new experience.

I looked and looked for my old spoke wrench, never used. Gave up. Made this instead:
P1080158.jpg

P1080159.jpg

Thanks to making do (no bike shop open on Sunday night: job done!
Rear wheel running perfect, no snake dancing anymore.
 
It all worked out pretty good. I know these spoke wrenches come in various sizes, usually not fitting.
I did not want to wait till tomorrow and take the bike to the shop again, just to buy a wrench that'd fit.
So it's all done now. Hoping the battery arrives tomorrow! Am going for a manual-pedal ride now, at midnight.
The excess grease will work out the ends of the hubs. It wipes off with paper towels.
This greasing system will keep the coaster brake and bearings in good stead for thousands of riding miles.

Interesting how still-viable these ancient systems are.
Let me Gadwin screen-shoot some patent pictures of the original cone and cup type bearing,
(images to come here from old USA patents: Google Patent Search)

The Original Cup and Cone Adjustable Bicycle Bearing still in use today:

ScreenShot2266.jpg

___________

Maybe I can find a antique coaster brake design like my bike's "modern" coaster brake.....
....ah, success! Google Patent Search:
HERE, 1915, so similar in design to what is still made today.
Am sure there are even earlier versions but they may not offer the same essential features of shoes that self retract.
Will look for more, earlier coaster brake patents. Disc brakes are ancient history too, btw.
_________________
Cheers to Kim, the Jesting Wizard of Can Do Down Under :wink: .
Alberto may be relatively silent. I am a chatterbox like you too, Kim.
Yet, we all know how to make do....

My paternal g'father's seminal invention.
_______
 
:) I'd not have this if not for having sold junk on ebay. Lucky me for that.

Just uploaded, those pictures above, on the red blanket.

Next I pose the raw battery on the bike, ten minutes ago:
P1080176.jpg


Then, just as I took that picture, Frank, our mail man arrived with two, small, needed parts from Justin!
P1080177.jpg

Perfect timing, that latest delivery, for a perfect, lucky day.

me so happpy.....

Thank you, Justin and Company.
Thank you, Li Ping!


(and thank you, Frank, our mail man!)


__________________

This project going to look good....but I am not going to rush things....
Danger: I have ideas......I'm still "running in" the new motor without load, using the lab power supply.

I am next going to (shudder, fear, horror) inject it with SAE 0-20 Mobil One oil, and idle the motor for hours longer,
then pour the oil back out through the disk brake screw attachment holes.

Later I will explain why I am doing this oiling-trick. It runs a risk, mucking with factory stock...but...
I think I know what I'm doing. If I spoil the motor in any way (set adrift a hall sensor's adhesive): it's my own fault.
But it will be a silent gear motor, as these things go. And I am sure enough it will survive my "improvements".

Remember, I'm a Model T man. I know planetary gears, plastics, rubber seals, ball and roller bearings,
and lubrication theory and practice. "Luck" be with me, and with crossed fingers for sure.
_______________

More later
 
P1080178.jpg

About six syringe-fulls of oil are in the motor right now.

The drag of this much oil, flooding into the motor rotor, itself, increases no-load wattage consumption from
33W at about 28V, to double that figure
(full throttle, bike inverted, wheel just spinning).

WHY? The churning, the drag. SO, I have now cut back the throttle setting, to a point where the wheel motor is consuming a mere 15W.
It is running dead silent due to the cushioning effect of this temporary oil-fill. I'll let it run slow like this for some hours,

then take the motor off the fork again, remove some of those screws, lay the motor on its flat face overnight, and let all the excess of the oil drain out.
The motor will then be "cleaner" inside (slight wear products will come out with the oil), and the plastic planet gears will remain lubricated.

Then we will see if the old wattage readings return, as they should.
Then I may see if ONE syringe-full of oil, only, increases drag appreciably (it should not).

The rationale: any gearing that can be run wet with oil, will run quieter and with less friction.
Spur gearing, by its nature, makes a noise due to the nature of the way the teeth meet (there's a slight impact, never a perfect rolling-into motion, hardly).

A wetted set of gears; oil wetted, will run more quietly, and need not be "flooded" with draggy, thick oil.
Think: automatic transmission fluid: a thin, additive-laden oil. Engine oil is much more viscous.

Most certainly, we do not want the motor-rotor to be spinning thousands of rpm in liquid oil!
That would damage the winding's or their tie-wraps in time, for sure, and also, consume vast amounts of energy.
So, merely oily gear teeth:
that's the aim: less noise, better lubrication than any grease (do auto engines run in grease? No.) This motor will be virtually STEALTH-quiet, I hope.

CAUTION
: do not try this stunt yet, any of you. It is a bold experiment. It is possible that the presence of the oil
on any silicone-based hall sensor adhesives may degrade those adhesives in time; though silicone rubbers are "sort of"
resistant to long-term contact with oil....
but here, I am entirely on my own. I have "voided" the new wheel's warranty.
If the motor holds up fine in the months to come, perhaps this will become a valid way to pre-treat a new gear-hub motor.

Reid
 
Just got back from dinner at Denny's.
Just read the recent inputs.

conclusion: The Reid :lol: is either a micro-Edison or a Dunkin' Donuts Homer Simpson---one or the other.
We shall see.

The alleged "water seal" of the eZee hollow axle is not. An ounce of oil has dripped out of it since I left the motor
an hour or so ago.

The motor is running so quietly right now, drawing 14W at the same reduced throttle setting (down from 15W, because there's less oil churning by the motor rotor....

Anywho
, I have read about and practiced lubrication engineering since 1972.
I'm a self-taught "expert" who sometimes....screws up big time. But not often.
Oil vs. Grease: Oil is superior whenever it is possible to contain the oil.
Grease is used in ball bearings because grease stays put.

Moly greases are grand for what they are: SOLID matter in a grease base.
Moly does not like moisture: it becomes an abrasive: just the opposite action of graphite.
Graphite greases can be admixed with water (water is always present in greases in real-life service) and
then the graphite lubricates -better- than moly. Interestingly, in the rare, total absence of water, graphite becomes abrasive;
the exact opposite of molybdenum.

Brushed motors cannot be used in the vacuum of outer space; their graphite brushes ruin commutators.
This is one of the reasons that brushless motors were devised.

A totally sealed, brushed motor (which of course, runs warm to hot), suffers faster brush and commutator wear
than the same motor if it were -open to the air-. Because, "sealed", it drives down the relative humidity of the air contained in the motor. Sealed motors must exhale air as they heat up: the air simply slips out through the single-lipped seals.
When the motor cools...it may or may not "inhale" a bit of fresh air (or water, if present).
Does that make sense? I thought not. :wink:
A carbon brushed motor running in humid Florida will go easier on its brushes than, say, in arid Arizona.

Self lubricating plastics, there are a'plenty. Pure nylon is pretty much self lubricating, yet is not terribly strong
nor at all heat resistant. And even nylon or Teflon, runs with less friction if oiled.

Greases, in time, can, in some applications (high speeds!) be practically displaced, leaving "dry" (sort of) parts.
Light oil, however, offers less lubricant-friction than does grease, and re-wets the surfaces.

Guys, I am no expert. I only pretend to sound like one. Laugh at me? I sure do! :lol: :lol: :lol:

I think I will let the motor idle on through the night and then drain it of its oil tomorrow, and leave in maybe one syringe-full
of fresh Mobil One.

Btw: ball bearings do not like solid lubricants of any sort to get into them.
Now that I've flooded the motor: some of Mr. C's moly grease particles have gone into the ball bearings.

Like the toilet that....well, I had better flush (the motor) twice. It's a long way from "clean" in there, at present.

For sure though, my eZee is gonna be quieter running than yours, naaaah naaaah naaaah!

Your bud,

Homer Simpsonreid
 
a quick and oily video will appear here in an hour or so.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ofgECIrD8gE&fmt=18
---
then, later (tomorrow), perhaps another video,
showing what was drained out of the motor after an overnight run.
I am expecting it to be pretty darned clear-looking oil.
Moly is black stuff. Metal is gray. Plastic: often invisible.
We shall need a filter. Paper toweling and a neodymniumnumen (sp?) magnet :lol:
to check for any steel particles in the drainage.
________________

off off topic: an old verse, not mine, black humour, 1890s:

Into the well
Which our plumber built her;
Our Aunt Eliza fell.
We must buy a filter.


:p
 
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