AussieJester
1 TW
The Stig said:"Olive Oyl?"
Olive oil is definitely the best kind of oil in the world.
For cooking maybe :-S
Nice video Reid
Reid's Stealth Cruiser: Float your eBOAT? Ideas, anyone? p22
- Thread starter Reid Welch
- Start date
- Status
For cooking maybe :-S
Nice video Reid
beast775
100 kW
excellent build,being a resistance freak myself.its nice to see somebody actually fighting against resistance.my massey silver ribbon bicycle from the early part of 1900s,had oil still in the hubs and crank,with no wear.not bad for 100 years of service.very enjoyable build i must say.
Reid Welch
1 MW
Hi and thanks, Kim!
And special thanks and appreciation to beast775 for relating a great, forgotten truth. OIL.
____________
btw, "SLE" deforms toes.
My brain
deforms thoughts. :lol:
____________
Another little video is in upload. It will appear here in one hour.
____________
The motor is now running under a light, fixed load; as the video will demonstrate.
This break-in endeavor is "gilding the lilly", for sure, and may not be useful in practice, but,
who knows for sure?
Anything that =might= improve this very good motor even more, is worth trying out...at my peril;
for the satisfaction of my own curiosity....
____________
Kill time. Watch Popeye and Olive Oyl?
Never Kick a Woman - Popeye short
You know, those early Popeye cartoons like this one, were made right here in Miami at the Max Fleischer studio
of animation. The building still stands. The motor? Still runs.
Max Fleischer, the most innovative animator of all time, and me granddad were pals.
Youse guys....are me pals too.
Me motto agrees with the motto of the beastman above: OYL rules!
And special thanks and appreciation to beast775 for relating a great, forgotten truth. OIL.
____________
btw, "SLE" deforms toes.
My brain
deforms thoughts. :lol: ____________
Another little video is in upload. It will appear here in one hour.
____________
The motor is now running under a light, fixed load; as the video will demonstrate.
This break-in endeavor is "gilding the lilly", for sure, and may not be useful in practice, but,
who knows for sure?
Anything that =might= improve this very good motor even more, is worth trying out...at my peril;
for the satisfaction of my own curiosity....
____________
Kill time. Watch Popeye and Olive Oyl?
Never Kick a Woman - Popeye short
You know, those early Popeye cartoons like this one, were made right here in Miami at the Max Fleischer studio
of animation. The building still stands. The motor? Still runs.
Max Fleischer, the most innovative animator of all time, and me granddad were pals.
Youse guys....are me pals too.
Me motto agrees with the motto of the beastman above: OYL rules!
Reid Welch
1 MW
#16: eZee motor: still half-filled with oil, running under a minor, fixed load for break-in purposes.
#17: eZee motor, 2nd oil fill & continued running under light load
NEW:
#18: eZee motor final flush-out, plus oil theory and practice
______________
Videos yet to be made. Proposed:
#19: final fitting of the eZee wheel to the dropouts, first and quick lash-up of the wiring (will be visible wiring), temporary (quick) mounting of the new Ping 36V/20Ah battery. (yet to be done)
#20: first ride, a shorty video
#21: helmet-cam tour of the neighborhood.
#21: a roughpants run, up and down the steep slopes of the root-rutted, century-old, local rock quarry: now a grassy, public park a block away from home here.
#22: a range-endurance test at the local high school's oval running track.
How many miles will the Ping pack and Ezee combo run on level ground, in still air, non-aero rider stance,
at constant high speed?
#23: Helmet-cam tours of old Coconut grove, the lanes and highways, the ocean, the Rickenbacker Causeway bridge (4.5% grade; our only "hill"), the Cape Florida Lighthouse (1820, our oldest structure). Tour of Fairchild tropical Gardens, the Kampong, The Venetian Pool, Coral Castle, Al Capone's old neighborhood... other local points of interest.. Miami Beach, etc... from the vantage point of an ebike.
------
NB: despite all this docu- rigamarole, the BASIC installation of motor and battery is just an hour or two's job.
I have to date simply documented in excruciating detail some possible ways to optimize a simple bike and e-installation.
Have spent more time in making text and photos, and in expressing theoretical and practical ideas
than it would have taken to just do it.
Aim: make your installation of whatever motor and battery you choose, easier,
and more certain of quality and lasting results. Anyone who has suffered sudden collapse
of an SLA-loaded rear rack, or "peanut butter" planetary teeth before, already knows the growing-pains
of this still-young technology. Connector troubles, water intrusion, dropout failure, fork collapse, chain lose, etc....
We grow by stages of self-education, whether in making a relatively sedate bike such as this, or making speed demon ebikes of powers greater than seen before by mere mortals.
All of us who do and dare: Mr. Twiddles :wink: here, or...safe or Knoxie, Aussie Jester, and all of us who build; all of you: too many to name here, are...e-Supermen!
Ypedal, pioneer of this hobby, and mainstay of this forum, noted of this kit: http://www.ypedal.com/ezee.htm.
It was due to Ypedal's input and Justin Elmore-Lemoir's reputation, that I chose the eZee (or BMC/Texas type) type hub motor, for its being better for my particular needs, than the direct drive-type of hub motor.
I won't regret a thing of my build, other than the fact that the only headwinds that will affect me now, are....my own, long posts;
I blow too much. :lol:
All roads are leading us to home: security, safety, speed, reliability, self-assurance and competence in simple wrenching (all much easier, say I, than simple wenching :lol: )
eSupermen: below is linked the very first Superman cartoon, first adaptation from the then new comic character.
By chance of historical co-incidence. This film was made right here in Miami, at the Fleisher studio, by a man who
was an inventor, innovator, and who helped my grandfather (an MD) invent the first gastroscope to take color motion pictures of the human stomach in digestive action. "This nut may prove dangerous." (but we doubt it).
SUPERMAN, 1941. "The hour has come." Soon we ride
into the sunrise,
Reid
#17: eZee motor, 2nd oil fill & continued running under light load
NEW:
#18: eZee motor final flush-out, plus oil theory and practice
______________
Videos yet to be made. Proposed:
#19: final fitting of the eZee wheel to the dropouts, first and quick lash-up of the wiring (will be visible wiring), temporary (quick) mounting of the new Ping 36V/20Ah battery. (yet to be done)
#20: first ride, a shorty video
#21: helmet-cam tour of the neighborhood.
#21: a roughpants run, up and down the steep slopes of the root-rutted, century-old, local rock quarry: now a grassy, public park a block away from home here.
#22: a range-endurance test at the local high school's oval running track.
How many miles will the Ping pack and Ezee combo run on level ground, in still air, non-aero rider stance,
at constant high speed?
#23: Helmet-cam tours of old Coconut grove, the lanes and highways, the ocean, the Rickenbacker Causeway bridge (4.5% grade; our only "hill"), the Cape Florida Lighthouse (1820, our oldest structure). Tour of Fairchild tropical Gardens, the Kampong, The Venetian Pool, Coral Castle, Al Capone's old neighborhood... other local points of interest.. Miami Beach, etc... from the vantage point of an ebike.
------
NB: despite all this docu- rigamarole, the BASIC installation of motor and battery is just an hour or two's job.
I have to date simply documented in excruciating detail some possible ways to optimize a simple bike and e-installation.
Have spent more time in making text and photos, and in expressing theoretical and practical ideas
than it would have taken to just do it.
Aim: make your installation of whatever motor and battery you choose, easier,
and more certain of quality and lasting results. Anyone who has suffered sudden collapse
of an SLA-loaded rear rack, or "peanut butter" planetary teeth before, already knows the growing-pains
of this still-young technology. Connector troubles, water intrusion, dropout failure, fork collapse, chain lose, etc....
We grow by stages of self-education, whether in making a relatively sedate bike such as this, or making speed demon ebikes of powers greater than seen before by mere mortals.
All of us who do and dare: Mr. Twiddles :wink: here, or...safe or Knoxie, Aussie Jester, and all of us who build; all of you: too many to name here, are...e-Supermen!
Ypedal, pioneer of this hobby, and mainstay of this forum, noted of this kit: http://www.ypedal.com/ezee.htm.
It was due to Ypedal's input and Justin Elmore-Lemoir's reputation, that I chose the eZee (or BMC/Texas type) type hub motor, for its being better for my particular needs, than the direct drive-type of hub motor.
I won't regret a thing of my build, other than the fact that the only headwinds that will affect me now, are....my own, long posts;
I blow too much. :lol:
All roads are leading us to home: security, safety, speed, reliability, self-assurance and competence in simple wrenching (all much easier, say I, than simple wenching :lol: )
eSupermen: below is linked the very first Superman cartoon, first adaptation from the then new comic character.
By chance of historical co-incidence. This film was made right here in Miami, at the Fleisher studio, by a man who
was an inventor, innovator, and who helped my grandfather (an MD) invent the first gastroscope to take color motion pictures of the human stomach in digestive action. "This nut may prove dangerous." (but we doubt it).
SUPERMAN, 1941. "The hour has come." Soon we ride
into the sunrise,
Reid
methods
1 GW
Reid Welch said:
Nice post.
I like it when people go against the grain and can present an argument for why. I work for the government and i can assure you that 90% of the methods, procedures, rules of thumb, good practices, and general ways of doing things are there because some uninterested engineer was told 30 years ago that he/she had to make a decision. Decisions are made, success is found, then it is assumed that those "practices" are somehow the "best practices". New designs copy old designs and. . .
If you can prove that peeing in your motor makes it run better then I am all for it!
-Patrick
(if you need any pee let me know)
Reid Welch
1 MW
(quote snipped).methods said:
Thank you, Patrick. Today will be still images mostly.
Pictures soon to appear here will be merely captioned; no long-winded lectures.
The motor may not run one whit better or longer-lasting than stock.
What matters to me is the =trying= to find its "weak points", as I see them, in advance of placing the motor into service.
Mr. C's axle water seal clearly is not satisfactory (see earlier page for image).
Parts, nuts, externals of the hub are all de-oiled, brushed cleaned with naphtha.
The hollow axle sealant (a sort of silicone rubber, brand name "Perfect Glue #1" goes into the hollow axle.
Quick disconnects have been clipped off. I will use grub-screw compression connectors instead.
The photo essay to follow in a bit will explain all.
OK. Out of breath (thank god for that) :lol: .
Thank you, Patrick. I have to take a P from you, anyway, and like it.. Thanks.
Perfection is in the tiny details.
R.
Reid Welch
1 MW
I don't much care for quick disconnects,where/when not essential for convenience;
such as for the charger connection.
I will use a two-pole "trailer connector" for the battery charger/battery interface.
The "permanent" connections will be made with compression screw joiners
CLIP!
Now the nuts and spring can be removed for soaking in naphtha and brushing
to remove galled, stainless steel particles
From the nuts and axle threads--what was left in the solvent dish
We have clean nuts below. Will use an anti-galling lube to prevent future galling.
Stainless against steel galls otherwise, if a metallic anti-seize lube is not used. We'll use anti-seize.
One axle was already galling one thread. No more. Photo taken before brushing it all clean with solvent.
Clean threads, no oil for now.
Ready for deep injection of Perfect Glue #1, and another layer: glued/shrunk-on heat shrink tubing.
Notice the brush marks: to further key the adhesive to the cord.
This job to come is for a true, perfect water seal.
Sealing in the next form. Then perfection of the seating of the "D" axle to the dropouts. Photo essay:
such as for the charger connection.
I will use a two-pole "trailer connector" for the battery charger/battery interface.
The "permanent" connections will be made with compression screw joiners
CLIP!
Now the nuts and spring can be removed for soaking in naphtha and brushing
to remove galled, stainless steel particles
From the nuts and axle threads--what was left in the solvent dish
We have clean nuts below. Will use an anti-galling lube to prevent future galling.
Stainless against steel galls otherwise, if a metallic anti-seize lube is not used. We'll use anti-seize.
One axle was already galling one thread. No more. Photo taken before brushing it all clean with solvent.
Clean threads, no oil for now.
Ready for deep injection of Perfect Glue #1, and another layer: glued/shrunk-on heat shrink tubing.
Notice the brush marks: to further key the adhesive to the cord.
This job to come is for a true, perfect water seal.
Sealing in the next form. Then perfection of the seating of the "D" axle to the dropouts. Photo essay:
Reid Welch
1 MW
First, an injection of Perfect Glue (it is similar chemistry to acetic-acid cure silicone glues, but is more runny)
Now, a piece of heat shrink tubing is slipped onto the glue-buttered cord, and into the axle hole.
This is not essential; just extra protection: an extra layer of "skin".
Heat shrink the glue-coated tubing. The Perfect glue will fully cure even though it is "encased".
Wipe off the excess "glue", and it's done...except, perhaps we can slip the spiral wire connector back on?
Over the extra thickness of the shrink tubing? Let's try....It won't be a piece of cake....
_______________
To start, the wire-ends required to be put into a bit of shrink tubing, to clear the spring.
The spring-end had to be bent outwardly so it would not snag. It is soft, stainless steel.
Over the "hump", un-winding the spring, using the fingernail to pop the coils over the hump...
The "road rash" protector, done! There is a "C" shaped bit of stainless heavy gauge to further protect
the cable from :wink: sideways running on asphalt.
_____
Next: precision, full-depth seating of the "D" axle into the dropouts, for maximum strength.
A tiny, cylindrical Dremel diamond burr may be the way...
to be continued
Now, a piece of heat shrink tubing is slipped onto the glue-buttered cord, and into the axle hole.
This is not essential; just extra protection: an extra layer of "skin".
Heat shrink the glue-coated tubing. The Perfect glue will fully cure even though it is "encased".
Wipe off the excess "glue", and it's done...except, perhaps we can slip the spiral wire connector back on?
Over the extra thickness of the shrink tubing? Let's try....It won't be a piece of cake....
_______________
To start, the wire-ends required to be put into a bit of shrink tubing, to clear the spring.
The spring-end had to be bent outwardly so it would not snag. It is soft, stainless steel.
Over the "hump", un-winding the spring, using the fingernail to pop the coils over the hump...
The "road rash" protector, done! There is a "C" shaped bit of stainless heavy gauge to further protect
the cable from :wink: sideways running on asphalt.
_____
Next: precision, full-depth seating of the "D" axle into the dropouts, for maximum strength.
A tiny, cylindrical Dremel diamond burr may be the way...
to be continued
methods
1 GW
Murphy's law:
If methods put glue in the cable groove then 5 minutes after it was cured he would realized that he forgot to (insert one of a million things here)
-methods
If methods put glue in the cable groove then 5 minutes after it was cured he would realized that he forgot to (insert one of a million things here)
-methods
Reid Welch
1 MW
Reid's Law: there ain't no method here. Ha ha.
___________
OK, now let's look at the drop out fits, really close up.
I am working in real time with the bike and camera.
___________
First, here is what we have on both sides: a pretty good fit,
yet, the axle cannot quite seat to the very bottom.
It would be goooood, says Goober, to seat to the very bottom.
___________
To improve this vital area (not so vital with an eZee, because it freewheels, plus I have no front brake;
there is no great strain on these dropouts, not as the mere, 20A, setup is going to be).
We will use a dremel burr and patience.
___________
OK, now let's look at the drop out fits, really close up.
I am working in real time with the bike and camera.
___________
First, here is what we have on both sides: a pretty good fit,
yet, the axle cannot quite seat to the very bottom.
It would be goooood, says Goober, to seat to the very bottom.
___________
To improve this vital area (not so vital with an eZee, because it freewheels, plus I have no front brake;
there is no great strain on these dropouts, not as the mere, 20A, setup is going to be).
We will use a dremel burr and patience.
Reid Welch
1 MW
diamond dust burr
Soft mallet; brass is too hard if hit hard on the threads. Wood or lead, better. Tap to make a witness mark:
There it is, almost invisible: the first place that fouls the axle, preventing its dropping fully to the bottom:
Let me switch to paper strip instead. If the paper pulls out: clearance, excessive....
If the paper sticks: grind there, just a bit at a time:
Removing by wire brush, paint. Paint there only "squishes" under the intense clamping pressure,
loosening the joint. I will apply a bit of waterproof Green Grease (USA synthetic brand name) to prevent rust.
________
Now, install the wheel... for the last time. Gotta put the tube and Bontrager Fat Hank on first....
Soft mallet; brass is too hard if hit hard on the threads. Wood or lead, better. Tap to make a witness mark:
There it is, almost invisible: the first place that fouls the axle, preventing its dropping fully to the bottom:
Let me switch to paper strip instead. If the paper pulls out: clearance, excessive....
If the paper sticks: grind there, just a bit at a time:
Removing by wire brush, paint. Paint there only "squishes" under the intense clamping pressure,
loosening the joint. I will apply a bit of waterproof Green Grease (USA synthetic brand name) to prevent rust.
________
Now, install the wheel... for the last time. Gotta put the tube and Bontrager Fat Hank on first....
Reid Welch
1 MW
Here, this post is sort of a non-report:
The wheel was mounted two days ago. Then I made a little vid about a fine kind of butane soldering iron
Since then, I've been thinking, but also busy with other projects.
Probably, tonight, I will lash up the Ping battery (open air, not enclosed for now), duct taped to the luggage rack,
and install the eZee controller and wiring in the usual, visible (fugly) way, and charge the battery and get some first
rides.
Then, later, I will decide how best to enclose the Ping against bike-fall-overs (milk crate? shopping basket? custom made metal "shoebox"? The 36V, 20Ah Ping will have some vertical shock absorbtion: soft styro pad, or a pad of bubble wrap on its underside, at any rate.
And ultimately, asap, I'll HIDE all the wiring that I can hide, using the bike's top, horizontal tube, probably.
It will be a dull looking affair. With the front wheel drive eZee, bearing a fat, oversized tire of fully 27 inches diameter,
I expect the bike to go a solid 25mph when hot off the charger, and about 23mph or so at its nominal 36V:
perfectly fast (too fast!) for a coaster-brake-only cruiser.
Maybe in time I will install a front disk caliper and the eZee-supplied disk rotor... but I hope to not need that,
though it would make stopping on a dime, possible. We are in a flat state, no hills, and I won't often need to jam-stop
fast. Meow. I just ran over some kitty cat of the future. I can't brake for animals, not with a coaster brake!
The wheel was mounted two days ago. Then I made a little vid about a fine kind of butane soldering iron
Since then, I've been thinking, but also busy with other projects.
Probably, tonight, I will lash up the Ping battery (open air, not enclosed for now), duct taped to the luggage rack,
and install the eZee controller and wiring in the usual, visible (fugly) way, and charge the battery and get some first
rides.
Then, later, I will decide how best to enclose the Ping against bike-fall-overs (milk crate? shopping basket? custom made metal "shoebox"? The 36V, 20Ah Ping will have some vertical shock absorbtion: soft styro pad, or a pad of bubble wrap on its underside, at any rate.
And ultimately, asap, I'll HIDE all the wiring that I can hide, using the bike's top, horizontal tube, probably.
It will be a dull looking affair. With the front wheel drive eZee, bearing a fat, oversized tire of fully 27 inches diameter,
I expect the bike to go a solid 25mph when hot off the charger, and about 23mph or so at its nominal 36V:
perfectly fast (too fast!) for a coaster-brake-only cruiser.
Maybe in time I will install a front disk caliper and the eZee-supplied disk rotor... but I hope to not need that,
though it would make stopping on a dime, possible. We are in a flat state, no hills, and I won't often need to jam-stop
fast. Meow. I just ran over some kitty cat of the future. I can't brake for animals, not with a coaster brake!
AussieJester
1 TW
Well im glad someone else has issues lighting their butane iron, i have to hold my 'slidey thing' open till it heats up considerably or soon as i close it it goes out...They do put out a heap of heat though, soldered my heavy thick copper cored wires up not a problem pissy 40watt electric iron wouldn't have coped...
I vote for the 'shoe box' milk crate is to ghetto for this fine ride Reid, it deserves a custom alloy enclosue IMHO...
]
Or blue tongue Lizards
Reid Welch said:
I vote for the 'shoe box' milk crate is to ghetto for this fine ride Reid, it deserves a custom alloy enclosue IMHO...
]
Reid Welch said:I can't brake for animals, not with a coaster brake! [/color]
Or blue tongue Lizards
Reid Welch
1 MW
Former Boy Scout Here Pledges:
I shall never skank a skink!
Cats? They are worthy sport.
I shall never skank a skink!
Cats? They are worthy sport.
AussieJester
1 TW
Reid Welch said:Former Boy Scout Here Pledges:
I shall never skank a skink!
Cats? They are worthy sport.
I agree i'm the anti cat lover hahaha aside from the BIG cats of Africa (and the Tiger in Asia)
I HATE cats ...I had a couple of Bull Terrier/staffy when i was younger that agreed with me, one of
the Bullies 'Max'-->
(and yes that is fluro zinc cream on his "package" he used to get burnt badly without as me and the old man
spent every waking hour windsurfing back in those days...)
Could climb up trees after cats was funniest sight, he would get up but couldnt get down and sit and howl
and cry like a sheila ...i of course did the only thing an Aussie does in these situations, laugh hysterically as
the girlfriend went up after the dog...
Kim
Reid Welch
1 MW
^^
Great! I love off-topic tales and diversions.
This is to be a FUN thread. All dogs with buttered balls are welcome.
---OK, now for the few beginners who might have waded this far into my prose:
Basic Soddering (sic). Hic! I mean... basic soldering. Also: Greets to Rodrigo Godoy, copper mining engineer and ebike expert in Chile. (Rodrigo, your English is plenty good. If you want to hear lots of different Spanish, come to Miami: 80 percent of the residents speak Spanish, and few speak English as well as you. But we have no copper mines here!
The world needs copper! Chile is the copper source for the world!
Pictures to follow in this form. My inadept first-recent attempts at soldering after years of doing nothing.
We begin with images of the Ping-adapted lipo charger: I am changing its supplied connector to a "trailer" type connector.
stand by....for boring images
r.
Great! I love off-topic tales and diversions.
This is to be a FUN thread. All dogs with buttered balls are welcome.
---OK, now for the few beginners who might have waded this far into my prose:
Basic Soddering (sic). Hic! I mean... basic soldering. Also: Greets to Rodrigo Godoy, copper mining engineer and ebike expert in Chile. (Rodrigo, your English is plenty good. If you want to hear lots of different Spanish, come to Miami: 80 percent of the residents speak Spanish, and few speak English as well as you. But we have no copper mines here!
The world needs copper!
Chile is the copper source for the world! Pictures to follow in this form. My inadept first-recent attempts at soldering after years of doing nothing.
We begin with images of the Ping-adapted lipo charger: I am changing its supplied connector to a "trailer" type connector.
stand by....for boring images
r.
Reid Welch
1 MW
"how to sodder good" by :lol: Goober:
It is good practice to scrape wire before soldering. Rosin paste flux is recommended for larger wire: it cleans oxides.
Goober misplaced his tin of rosin paste sodder flux :|
It is good practice to scrape wire before soldering. Rosin paste flux is recommended for larger wire: it cleans oxides.
Goober misplaced his tin of rosin paste sodder flux :|
Reid Welch
1 MW
This tough, plastic ammo box would be ideal if it were one inch taller.
I can adapt it (butcher it) to fit the Ping
Charger negative to the end of the battery negative; will splice power negative output into a section of that wire later.
Battery's BMS charging negative is blue. It goes the the new charger connector's black.
Charger's new positive wire is red instead of the former white.
It goes to Ping's RED power output wire. We will splice (section the insulation)
to install the power-out for the controller, later.
____________
The battery voltage before applying the charger:
I can adapt it (butcher it) to fit the Ping
Charger negative to the end of the battery negative; will splice power negative output into a section of that wire later.
Battery's BMS charging negative is blue. It goes the the new charger connector's black.
Charger's new positive wire is red instead of the former white.
It goes to Ping's RED power output wire. We will splice (section the insulation)
to install the power-out for the controller, later.
____________
The battery voltage before applying the charger:
Reid Welch
1 MW
Before the first top-off charging. The battery was virtually full-charged, still, from China!
____________
The battery voltage after ten minutes on the fan-cooled little charger,
which cut off at this point, shutting down, just as it should:
By Ping Power light (120V bulb running at 43.5V, just off the charger...
...voltage will coast down gently: most-certainly forming the battery, like, in my opinion,
a new LiFePo4 baby should be coddled, just for a bit.
____
I will run it this way for a few cycles....just to beat the band;
to give it every reason to be fully "formed" when placed into real service.
I know this is not necessary, this step....but
...it does no harm, and might be a Good Thing; Ping would know best.
____
For sure, it is OK to put a Ping battery right into regular service,
but it won't attain full capacity until several full cycles have been run through.
_________
psssst: I like looking to my right, five feet away.
A 120V/150W bulb glows gentle, 39.5V, in the shadows
of things to come. I am happy.
more tomorrow...stay Zen till then.
____________
The battery voltage after ten minutes on the fan-cooled little charger,
which cut off at this point, shutting down, just as it should:
By Ping Power light (120V bulb running at 43.5V, just off the charger...
...voltage will coast down gently: most-certainly forming the battery, like, in my opinion,
a new LiFePo4 baby should be coddled, just for a bit.
____
I will run it this way for a few cycles....just to beat the band;
to give it every reason to be fully "formed" when placed into real service.
I know this is not necessary, this step....but
...it does no harm, and might be a Good Thing; Ping would know best.
____
For sure, it is OK to put a Ping battery right into regular service,
but it won't attain full capacity until several full cycles have been run through.
_________
psssst: I like looking to my right, five feet away.
A 120V/150W bulb glows gentle, 39.5V, in the shadows
of things to come. I am happy.
more tomorrow...stay Zen till then.
marty
10 MW
Reid,
Put batteries in a plastic box.
Here is a list of plastic box enclosure companies.
http://www.budind.com
http://www.hammondmfg.com
http://www.hoffmanonline.com
http://www.altechcorp.com
http://www.boxenclosures.com
http://www.daviesmolding.com
http://www.okwenclosures.com
http://www.pactecenclosures.com
http://www.polycase.com
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com
http://www.serpac.com
http://www.tekoenclosures.com
You should be able to fine a few more?
Put batteries in a plastic box.
Here is a list of plastic box enclosure companies.
http://www.budind.com
http://www.hammondmfg.com
http://www.hoffmanonline.com
http://www.altechcorp.com
http://www.boxenclosures.com
http://www.daviesmolding.com
http://www.okwenclosures.com
http://www.pactecenclosures.com
http://www.polycase.com
http://www.pomonaelectronics.com
http://www.serpac.com
http://www.tekoenclosures.com
You should be able to fine a few more?
Reid Welch
1 MW
thanks, per always, martyImages to follow were just made. Explanation.
I just woke up. It's 10:45 AM as I write this.
Pictures of ten minutes ago:
I reckon (rough guess) that that bulb set to burning many hours ago now, is drawing a measly 40W?
Under 50W, for sure (it is rated 150W at 120V). The battery has been running it all these hours
since the darkness of the earlier photos, when the pack voltage was also 39-and-a-fraction.
Our house power went out at the time of the last posting. I was in the dark but for the Ping bulb.
Fired up the Honda 20001e small genset. Began fiddling with mounting the Cycle Analyst. Got tired and went to sleep.
Ping powered bulb still glowing, pack still above 39V.
____________________
I like the thumb throttle so far, though I've never used one. Have heard they can be tiresome.
The grips are "racing grips": Local bike store, Bontager (Trek owned) brand;
a version of grip that is extra short in length.
____________
Reason I went for the thumb throttle: because newbies and anybody I invite will try the bike.
So I want "intuitive", over normal, throttling comfort. Most have not used twist throttles and could possibly "panic".
Coaster brake...and all that...keep it familiarly, "bike-looking", and feeling much as possible that way,
for it use as an "ambassador" for test riders. I want to ride but also: share the joy of ebiking with others.
____________________
The battery seems to be just fine,even excellent:
the many hours that it has held 39V whilst under the light, light-bulb load,
may mean that the Ping will stay "hot off the charger" for a few miles of running;
it will surely be a pretty fast bike for what it is: sure, with it's full 27" diameter front tire,
to attain 24 or 25mph while the battery's at or above 36V...if 20 A will do that.
Yes, Marty and all others: it now seems sort of "wrong" to ghettoize the bike too much.
Battery just setting loose on the rear rack
But, I sure don't know yet what to do with the homely wires. They'll sort out in time.
Lesson learnt: A brushless 36V controller is a MUCH bigger thing than a Currie 20A/36V controller,
and the C'lyte-type (eZee) controller appreciates good ventilation.
The water bottle mounting place suggests itself...and may serve as a chain guard of sorts.
Reid Welch
1 MW
I do not know if it's really needed, but Ping's packing styrofoam is super-spongy-soft.
It is double-sticky (the thin cellophane kind) taped to the bottom of the battery.
The sandwich is the that thick sort of corrugated cardboard, glued to the styro for now, with water soluble (reversible), blue "school glue".
After the school glue is set up in an hour or so I will trim the cardboard to fit the footprint the Ping. A bit of shock absorbtion....
The charger is re-topping the slightly-discharged (39.change-still) Ping.
___________________
The rack has yet to be lowered by a full inch...will do that small job next.
For now, just temporary, I'll duct tape the Ping to the rack.
The controller seems to beg to be mounted to the water bottle braze-on fittings.
I may quick-paint it silver,after de-gooping the vast-excess of "water sealing" butyl rubber sealant,
that looks so clumsy and fugly on a visible controller.
____________
So, just to get running, just for now, the wires will be bundled and zip tied and the battery firmly duct taped to the rack.
Later I will make a "safety" enclosure for the battery and also try to hide some of the wiring.
_______________
next: mount the eZee (C'lyte?) 20A controller:
It is double-sticky (the thin cellophane kind) taped to the bottom of the battery.
The sandwich is the that thick sort of corrugated cardboard, glued to the styro for now, with water soluble (reversible), blue "school glue".
After the school glue is set up in an hour or so I will trim the cardboard to fit the footprint the Ping. A bit of shock absorbtion....
The charger is re-topping the slightly-discharged (39.change-still) Ping.
___________________
The rack has yet to be lowered by a full inch...will do that small job next.
For now, just temporary, I'll duct tape the Ping to the rack.
The controller seems to beg to be mounted to the water bottle braze-on fittings.
I may quick-paint it silver,after de-gooping the vast-excess of "water sealing" butyl rubber sealant,
that looks so clumsy and fugly on a visible controller.
____________
So, just to get running, just for now, the wires will be bundled and zip tied and the battery firmly duct taped to the rack.
Later I will make a "safety" enclosure for the battery and also try to hide some of the wiring.
_______________
next: mount the eZee (C'lyte?) 20A controller:
Reid Welch
1 MW
____
___
___
____
One (mount the back plate to the water bottle mount) screw is far too "high". This will have to be dealt with.
to be continued
Reid Welch
1 MW
break time.
I'll look at their site for the first time.
http://www.ezeebike.com/
I think this kit is all quite good. Am pleased so far.
The factory sealant was solid, yet "reversible" for access to the insides.
Such things are a help to the home builder.
I'll look at their site for the first time.
http://www.ezeebike.com/
I think this kit is all quite good. Am pleased so far.
The factory sealant was solid, yet "reversible" for access to the insides.
Such things are a help to the home builder.
Reid Welch
1 MW
Must grind down the tall heads of the screws which will soon attach the controller's back plate to the water bottle carrier.
Their heads are much too high: insufficient clearance for the controller back cover to seat flush.
Then, to gain even more clearance (the heads were still too high), the controller's heat sink was ground thinner.
Now the case all fits, its guts and the cover, as original.
The case is soaking at this time of writing, in paint stripper. Then some OPEN HOLES (four Ezee mount holes) will be filled,
because my installation does not use those holes. Then the case will probably be sprayed silver, or left natural and clear-lacquered.
Then the controller back plate screws onto the water bottle carrier braze-ons, and then, the controller case (four factory screws); to the back plate.
It will all be water-sealed when finished.
The black paint is about ready to be washed off, the case sanded a bit for paint-adhesion, and sprayed.
I had better hurry. Light will fail soon. I have to spray Rustoleum out of doors because it is a sticky, slow-drying mist
that would go everywhere in the shop, and dry in place (unlike a quick-dry lacquer spray paint).
Images, self explanatory, boring as hell, but no-one else shows beginners how to do these "make do" things, not like this!
To the folks stuck on dial up: I am sorry to inflict these on you: :|
more later. (sheesh, reid!) :lol:
Their heads are much too high: insufficient clearance for the controller back cover to seat flush.
Then, to gain even more clearance (the heads were still too high), the controller's heat sink was ground thinner.
Now the case all fits, its guts and the cover, as original.
The case is soaking at this time of writing, in paint stripper. Then some OPEN HOLES (four Ezee mount holes) will be filled,
because my installation does not use those holes. Then the case will probably be sprayed silver, or left natural and clear-lacquered.
Then the controller back plate screws onto the water bottle carrier braze-ons, and then, the controller case (four factory screws); to the back plate.
It will all be water-sealed when finished.
The black paint is about ready to be washed off, the case sanded a bit for paint-adhesion, and sprayed.
I had better hurry. Light will fail soon. I have to spray Rustoleum out of doors because it is a sticky, slow-drying mist
that would go everywhere in the shop, and dry in place (unlike a quick-dry lacquer spray paint).
Images, self explanatory, boring as hell, but no-one else shows beginners how to do these "make do" things, not like this!
To the folks stuck on dial up: I am sorry to inflict these on you: :|
more later. (sheesh, reid!) :lol:
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