Replacing freewheel... double washers?

Joined
Mar 22, 2015
Messages
90
Location
Rochester, NY.
Hello all.. I just went to install a new freewheel onto my hub and encountered a problem... First my Freewheel removal tool wont fit over the axle shaft. Seems I'll have to remove the axle first..

So I found a good description of how to take apart the hub. https://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorStatorRemoval.pdf

I'll need a gear puller AND to completely remove it from the wheel?? wtf!! I think I need to get a hold of this ebay seller for an exchange. what do you think?
 
I believe some varieties of tool will fit. I just took my one that didn't fit, cut off the splined section and welded it to a large nut that did fit over the axle. I just need a big spanner or pair of grips to use it.
 
You need one like this one http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/ebike-parts/repair-tools/fwtool.html



Punx0r said:
... cut off the splined section and welded it to a large nut that did fit over the axle...
I like that and wouldn't have ever thought of doing it that way around.
 
Or drill the freewheel tool you have 9/16" or 14mm. Easier said than done but doable with sharp hard bits.
 
Ok...thanks.. for all that. That tool is it.. Or the cut and weld idea but I dont have awelder.

I would rather not dis assemble the motor. Thanks for the link. I did some further searching and I found that tool through amazon for $9. There's a cool machine shop near me that might be able to drill out my FR-1 freewheel tool for me tomorrow for ten bux.
 
I had this same problem... the tool inner diameter being a bit smaller then the flange. I just "unhardened" the tool bit by heating it up with a torch until red hot and then just used a round hand file on it, definitely took some effort, a dremel or something would be a lot better.
 
Just put the standard tool in a vice and drill a bigger hole for the larger axle. A 9/16 bit is just over 14mm.
 
Thanks wesnell.. Sounds like what I might do... the drill bit is more $ than the right tool, but I'll get to use it tonight instead of waiting 3 days for the mail.

Machine shop will probably do it for 10. Hardened steel might be a challenge to drill through. Going to try my dremel in a bit.

Although last week I tried to dremel a flat wrench from park tool and it wouldn't grind away.
 
I chucked the removal tool the lathe and turned it out with a cheap standard carbide cutter. No drill required, and the tool was not hard steel. Your machine shop would have no trouble with that, if your tool is the same material. Your interference problem is different, but the hardness of the steel is the important characteristic. If a file will cut it, then it can be drilled or turned. If not then it would have to be ground.

2014-05-17%252015.55.44.jpg
 
I drilled my Park FR-1 with a step bit and a 3/8 drill. Took under 10 minutes. I didn't want to wait for the one I ordered either.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-4-quarter-inch-3-4-quarter-inch-high-speed-steel-step-drill-44460.html
 
There actually must be some differences in tool's. I have a Park FR7 and it's silver in color...seems as if it might be a different metal.

But that's a non issue for me now. I tried to dremel it this AM.. and that was next to useless, so I dropped it off, at the machine shop I mentioned above and picked it up after work.
$10 . CAM00892.jpg

So I just got the free wheel off. And for sure it's bad. It could be that the pawls are sticky..but even oiling it up...it has too much play. Something's not right with it.

I was able to find this shimano freewheel in town with a better low gear. 13 to 28 vs. 14 to 28. CAM00893.jpg
Hopefully this will help the top end of the bike as far as being able to pedal somewhat at WOT.

Going to try to get it mounted back up shortly
 
Ok... there's a hang up.. This freewheel hangs up when fully tightened. I used the washer that the original freewheel used and it still makes contact with the hub causing it to lock up. No Good.

should I double up the washer? If say a bike store has one to sell me..

This thread is helping.. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=36914
 
Yes, different freewheel may need thicker washers to clear the hub. Make/scrounge something. Also bear in mind that you need sufficient clearance between the sprocket and the motor for the width of the chain...
 
Punx0r said:
Yes, different freewheel may need thicker washers to clear the hub. Make/scrounge something. Also bear in mind that you need sufficient clearance between the sprocket and the motor for the width of the chain...
Thanks, ... and yep I have a spare chain that I tested on the large sprocket.. clearance is ok. Hoping to get the washer sometime this afternoon
 
I think I ended up finding a random spare one of the correct O.D. and filing out the middle...
 
I'm fairly confident you can soak the old non-ratcheting freewheel in warm, not too hot oil (veggie, motor or ATF) to restore functionality. In fact, it's not a bad idea to do that with brand new ones. Salty winter road slush tends to work it's way inside and cause those ratchet pawls to stick. Good soaking in oil tends to prevent and may restore smooth operation.
 
I dunno it randomly locks up in both direction's. I'll oil soak it and keep it as a spare. It's so loose compared to the Shimano that replaced it.

I stopped at "Full Moon" Bike Shop on South ave, and experienced wonderful customer service, but the bike tech just didn't have a spare washer floating around.

So I hopped on over to '"Towners" BS on Monroe Ave...real close to my house. Wasn't overly impressed with the person I dealt with prices were fair... and.. he had the spacer I needed.

I just twisted the Shimano on tight and I have a happy freewheel and plenty of chain clearance. Time to re-assemble and test ride.

In other news, My Anderson power pole connector's showed up and I wired up the proper connector and inline fuse to mate the battery and controller up as intended.

Personally I'd like to eliminate the 'computer power plug' that exists inline as a quick disconnect.. Seems like that could really cause a voltage drop.
 
My mistake, I thought it just wouldn't hook-up in drive direction. Obviously oil wouldn't fix loose bearings which it sounds like your situation.

Bicycle shops can be "one of those things" for electric riders. My NYC experiences have not been very good but I'm very grateful for the motivation to discover mail-ordering parts & specialty tools and merely do my own service work. Yeah, often wait-time for shipping but that's why we eventually build more than one eBike...
 
Ykick said:
My mistake, I thought it just wouldn't hook-up in drive direction. Obviously oil wouldn't fix loose bearings which it sounds like your situation.

Bicycle shops can be "one of those things" for electric riders. My NYC experiences have not been very good but I'm very grateful for the motivation to discover mail-ordering parts & specialty tools and merely do my own service work. Yeah, often wait-time for shipping but that's why we eventually build more than one eBike...

No Mistake, I wasn't very clear on the initial problems with the original freewheel until one post ago. And, funny you mention loose bearings as the culprit thats exactly what I hear when I tilt the thing around.

Mail order is the pain!! lol... especially this month long wait for my Sunding bike computer.

I'm trying to download an app for my phone , but my phone has low memory space, and it wont install any of them.

But otherwise... not only does my bike finally seem ready to ride...but the Shimano freewheel looks way better than the dull stocker that came with the wheel. Matches the strange hub and fancy rim with writing on it. Looks great and works great. Time for some gopro video.
 
I first wanted to create a thread but no need if there's one already about this. A while ago I screwed on a random freewheel on my QS 205 just for the hell of it to go for a ride. After that I wanted to take it back off, only to realize that my freewheel removal tool did not fit. Well f***. Initially i tried drilling it to make it fit, just to break the drill bit cause the removal tool seemed to be made of some sort of hardened steel.

Then I got myself a new removal tool, similiar in shape to this one: http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/repair-tools/fwtool.html

I ground off the hex nut part cause it didn't fit over the axle. Got myself a wrench and welded them together (remove coatings first):

4RLahIg.jpg


A hammer and a screw driver later I was able to remove the freewheel. Had to hammer it in because the hub motor wasn't really designed with a freewheel removal tool in mind. Hold the wheel tight and hammer on the wrench to loosen the freewheel. Used the screw driver to pry the pieces apart. Both freewheel and motor are still intact. Hope this helps someone in a similiar situation.

Cheers
 
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