If it's the SFOC5 controller, could you open it up and post pics? I'm still dying of curiosity about the one I'm testing here, but don't want to open it until I have to since it works so well (with a few caveats for my purposes). 
Revolt 120 pro eTrial overheating problem
- Thread starter jonnydrive
- Start date
larsb
1 MW
It was inded the SFOC5 but i've sent it back already. We had it working really well now, could drive it to 320A without issues. I was starting to think i might toast the RV120 with it
Oh, well.
I'm working on breaking the trike with the SFOC5, myself. Gonna have to take the right motor wheel off and swap it with a smaller-motor one while I rebuild the axle on the MXUS 4503 enough to handle the abuse.
I'm working on breaking the trike with the SFOC5, myself. Gonna have to take the right motor wheel off and swap it with a smaller-motor one while I rebuild the axle on the MXUS 4503 enough to handle the abuse.
jonnydrive
100 W
Here some pictures where you can see a Revolt 120 pro after 1,5 years of dirt ride (enduro/trial),
Following the main issue:
- Overheating just from the beginning
- Stripped screws replaced after half year
- Shaft slight bendend at the beginning and definitely broken at the end (a week ago)
- A lot of Rust on the external cover
Do not believe when they say electric motors are eternal!
In the past I contacted Alexey of Revolt for the overheating problem and he proposed me a discount price for a replacement engine, after 1 year his offer is still valid so...the new motor is coming!!
I have to admit that they have a good post-sale support!
I also take this pause to improve my e-trial and do some extra-ordinary maintenance.
I checked the gearbox. I found it in real good shape, the mix grease and oil kept the cogs in a perfect shape!
I am going to improve the way to fix and easily remove the battery packs form the frame and try to protect the new engine from mud/dust/cow shit/water.
The new engine will came with a side covers (Revolt told me that do not impact on the cooling ability of the motor...)
Some details will came, I sincerely hope that the new motor will keep the datasheet performances.
Following the main issue:
- Overheating just from the beginning
- Stripped screws replaced after half year
- Shaft slight bendend at the beginning and definitely broken at the end (a week ago)
- A lot of Rust on the external cover
Do not believe when they say electric motors are eternal!
In the past I contacted Alexey of Revolt for the overheating problem and he proposed me a discount price for a replacement engine, after 1 year his offer is still valid so...the new motor is coming!!
I have to admit that they have a good post-sale support!
I also take this pause to improve my e-trial and do some extra-ordinary maintenance.
I checked the gearbox. I found it in real good shape, the mix grease and oil kept the cogs in a perfect shape!
I am going to improve the way to fix and easily remove the battery packs form the frame and try to protect the new engine from mud/dust/cow shit/water.
The new engine will came with a side covers (Revolt told me that do not impact on the cooling ability of the motor...)
Some details will came, I sincerely hope that the new motor will keep the datasheet performances.
Attachments
jonnydrive said:In the past I contacted Alexey of Revolt for the overheating problem and he proposed me a discount price for a replacement engine, after 1 year his offer is still valid so...the new motor is coming!!
Which motor you will get exactly and does it have any improvements for reducing eddy lossses?
jonnydrive
100 W
The same motor (120 pro) but with 45 kv.
Revolt said with my actual setup, motorbike weight and gear reduction, the engine should work correctly in the promised power range of 6k-15kw (datasheet), they also have other customers run their engines on e-motor bikes. They also said that probably my engine or controller have some issue, I replaced the controller and the problem was still there....now with the new motor I hope to obtain better and cool performance.
Revolt said with my actual setup, motorbike weight and gear reduction, the engine should work correctly in the promised power range of 6k-15kw (datasheet), they also have other customers run their engines on e-motor bikes. They also said that probably my engine or controller have some issue, I replaced the controller and the problem was still there....now with the new motor I hope to obtain better and cool performance.
larsb
1 MW
I am afraid that you'll be disappointed if they sent exactly the same motor.
They should have sent you one of the new "e" motors
They should have sent you one of the new "e" motors
jonnydrive
100 W
I know larsb,
but the discount price was valid only for the same version....
but the discount price was valid only for the same version....
larsb
1 MW
The largest problem in my two motors was the the halls were not placed correct, hopefully Revolt has learned something.. But if this motor still has issues then Revolt should just give you the money back.
(As a last resort you could try getting the pcb hall board that revolt has in their "120e" motors)
Hopefully you don't have to spend a lot of effort on it again - good luck!
(As a last resort you could try getting the pcb hall board that revolt has in their "120e" motors)
Hopefully you don't have to spend a lot of effort on it again - good luck!
jonnydrive
100 W
OK, the new motor is arrived. With discount price (for replacement of the old one) and adding shipping and customs is was about 250€
It lasted 20 second of run on workbench after that the hall sensor failed and stopped working. Now I have 5kg of iron and copper payed 250€
what can I say....
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
here the mail thread with the Revolt support:
Dear Revolt,
have you checked the motor before send to me? The motor last maximum 20 second on workbench, after that it reached 2400 rpm and the hall sensor stopped definitely working.
Now the motor is unable to spin smoothly due to hall sensors failure.
Could you please refund me?
Thanks
Stefano
...
Revolt
09:17 (4 minutes ago)
to me
Dear Stefan,
We test (and balance) each the motor before shipping so we know it's good.
We gave you great discount for that motor as gesture of goodwill, sorry - we can't take responsible for that failure now.
If it's sensors problem you need to replace them.
Regards
Alexey.K
bottom line, it is my problem.
what can I say......
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
jonny
It lasted 20 second of run on workbench after that the hall sensor failed and stopped working. Now I have 5kg of iron and copper payed 250€
what can I say....
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
here the mail thread with the Revolt support:
Dear Revolt,
have you checked the motor before send to me? The motor last maximum 20 second on workbench, after that it reached 2400 rpm and the hall sensor stopped definitely working.
Now the motor is unable to spin smoothly due to hall sensors failure.
Could you please refund me?
Thanks
Stefano
...
Revolt
09:17 (4 minutes ago)
to me
Dear Stefan,
We test (and balance) each the motor before shipping so we know it's good.
We gave you great discount for that motor as gesture of goodwill, sorry - we can't take responsible for that failure now.
If it's sensors problem you need to replace them.
Regards
Alexey.K
bottom line, it is my problem.
what can I say......
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
---------------> DO NOT BUY THE REVOLT 120 PRO <------------------------
jonny
larsb
1 MW
Now that's sad. And annoying. Maybe just ditch the motor and find another supplier. It's not worth to fix it.
I agree: stay away from Revolt!
I agree: stay away from Revolt!
Man thats sad to hear.
Normally this should be handled under warranty and i personally would not accept this answer.
I mean, you had it on the workbench lying not even installed, so it should be possible to send it back under the 14day return right, but i can understand that it would not make much sense due to the lost money for customs and shipping.
Normally this should be handled under warranty and i personally would not accept this answer.
I mean, you had it on the workbench lying not even installed, so it should be possible to send it back under the 14day return right, but i can understand that it would not make much sense due to the lost money for customs and shipping.
larsb
1 MW
I second what Madin88 said, should be a warranty case. It's if you have the energy to chase them.
Otherwise just leave it and buy a good motor instead
Maybe i have time to get the qs3000w mid motor running this weekend. It seems solid for the price; at 10kgs a bit on the heavy side..see the thread for it.
I'll see if i can recommend it when i have some miles on it, based on user "bionicon" description it would be a good replacement if you can fit it.
Otherwise just leave it and buy a good motor instead
Maybe i have time to get the qs3000w mid motor running this weekend. It seems solid for the price; at 10kgs a bit on the heavy side..see the thread for it.
I'll see if i can recommend it when i have some miles on it, based on user "bionicon" description it would be a good replacement if you can fit it.
Karolis
10 W
I third to that. I based my all bike on this motor RV 160 pro from ground up and found that is crap half way in project. But thanks god I also backed up project with QS205 in mind if something will go wrong, still left place for fitting it in.
But I redone the whole motor to be like hub based with internal pcb for halls to find out that rotor is peace of crap. First i thought that my side covers are machined bad. But after looking deeper it turns out rotor is more oval :lol: than round. So I will try it, but I have already bad feeling for it.
But I redone the whole motor to be like hub based with internal pcb for halls to find out that rotor is peace of crap. First i thought that my side covers are machined bad. But after looking deeper it turns out rotor is more oval :lol: than round. So I will try it, but I have already bad feeling for it.
jonnydrive
100 W
Thanks guys,
I opened a dispute with Paypall, now I catch the Revolt attention.
They suggest me to disassemble the motor to find out the problem and fix by myself. I would rather get my money back and buy a better motor, maybe the ones suggested by larsb (the qs3000w).
They also proposed me to send a new set of hall sensors for free but only if I close the dispute.... they say that is for good faith.... I say :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
As for Karolis I build the entire motorbike around a revolt 120 (shit!) I am going to try to follow their leeds (for now), but I agree with you guys, the revolt hall sensor position is the root of the problem, they are glued the hall sensors on the motor how can this works?? also cinese low cost motors use a dedicated pcb!!!!
I opened a dispute with Paypall, now I catch the Revolt attention.
They suggest me to disassemble the motor to find out the problem and fix by myself. I would rather get my money back and buy a better motor, maybe the ones suggested by larsb (the qs3000w).
They also proposed me to send a new set of hall sensors for free but only if I close the dispute.... they say that is for good faith.... I say :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
As for Karolis I build the entire motorbike around a revolt 120 (shit!) I am going to try to follow their leeds (for now), but I agree with you guys, the revolt hall sensor position is the root of the problem, they are glued the hall sensors on the motor how can this works?? also cinese low cost motors use a dedicated pcb!!!!
jonnydrive
100 W
larsb said:
I have some update to share.
I disassembled the engine to see the root of the problem.
I found that the cable used to fix the hall sensors exceed the external size (the diameter) of the rotor.
During the first spin the hall cable scrapes against the magnets damaging itself.
Now it is incontestable that is a factory problem, I want Revolt to admit that! It is a metter of principle!
Say that, have you some idea how to fix the wiring without removing the hall sensors? what is the black glue they put over the cabling?
larsb
1 MW
My guess is that it's liquid tape, certainly looks like it. It's not so hard to pull off in that case. Could you post pics of the sensor locations?
If they haven't changed location from deep in the slots then you still might need to replace them even though you splice the wire.
If they haven't changed location from deep in the slots then you still might need to replace them even though you splice the wire.
jonnydrive
100 W
larsb said:
naa, they are always in the same shitty locations
larsb
1 MW
Revolt just aint fit to make motors.
I think you'll take a chance if you put energy into fixing that.. Do it the right way instead. Either grind new hall seats or use an encoder or external sensors.
What controller do you use? If it's got 5V hall signals then i'd recommend an RLS RMC22 encoder, that's what gave the best output in my rv120. I believe you have a support bearing on the non drive side? Then it's not hard to mount the sensor on the bearing plate.
I think you'll take a chance if you put energy into fixing that.. Do it the right way instead. Either grind new hall seats or use an encoder or external sensors.
What controller do you use? If it's got 5V hall signals then i'd recommend an RLS RMC22 encoder, that's what gave the best output in my rv120. I believe you have a support bearing on the non drive side? Then it's not hard to mount the sensor on the bearing plate.
jonnydrive
100 W
larsb said:
I agree, external hall sensor could be a good solution, encoder unfortuntely is not supported by my kelly KLS7230S controller. Have you build an external hall sensors pcb for your revolt motor?
larsb
1 MW
I've used both rmc encoder with the kelly KLS7230 and later external sensors to keep it a bit more simple.
Encoder was a bit difficult since kelly has 12v hall driving and the rmc22 only accepts 5V. Rmc22 of the right variant is a commutation encoder so you get emulated hall signals in the perfect position.
If you read my thread for the hall sensor update you'll see what i did if you want external sensors. Sensor mount could easily be 3d-printed:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=95129
Encoder was a bit difficult since kelly has 12v hall driving and the rmc22 only accepts 5V. Rmc22 of the right variant is a commutation encoder so you get emulated hall signals in the perfect position.
If you read my thread for the hall sensor update you'll see what i did if you want external sensors. Sensor mount could easily be 3d-printed:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=95129
It should also work to grind seats for the sensors in the stator to fit them closer to the magnets, that'd be the easiest. It can work well without PCB but you cannot fine-tune the timing.
district9prawn
1 kW
Some encoders have hall sensor emulation mode (they often call it UVW mode). They are usually a bit more immune to stray magnetic fields than plain hall sensors. Not sure if this is an issue with these motors.
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