alexis57 said:EDIT : FORGET EVERYTHING, I just read SONY doesnt make VTC5 anymore ... Then, they are fake ones.
is this true?
alexis57 said:EDIT : FORGET EVERYTHING, I just read SONY doesnt make VTC5 anymore ... Then, they are fake ones.
riba2233 said:That's nice! Now you see why they don't do it the right way, too much work for them![]()
Well, one of the advantages of these Tesla cells is that we shouldn't have to worry about a single cell failure.dbaker said:How about a layer of foam sheet? It would make it easier to repair the pack if a cell fails.
Thank you very much but it's okay, I won't buy Sony cells.ecross said:Hello, I have a real source for Sony cells, I have VTC4 and VTC5 on Stock. Do you want to see a pic. from the real VTC5?
Yes Sony doesn't make any cells, it's another manufacturer but we don't know ... And, I don't know if they are really fake but in doubt, I won't buy. (the unity price is really low...)madin88 said:is this true?
alexis57 said:And what about HE2 from LG ?
I can buy on ebay or aliexpress real ones for 6.2$ each. (shipping is included in this price)
I could try my motor with only 26 batteries. 13s2p
Do you know what is better ?
- BMS with just a power supply (charger) (Does the BMS know how to charge the battery ? constant current then constant voltage)
- A balance management charger ? Like the imax B6
okashira said:It helps to be able to weld copper.
I weld 0.1mm copper stacked right on top of nickel. Works fine.
The downside is the 0.1mm copper is much more fragile then 0.2mm nickel. I am considering potting it after inspection and testing of packs...
![]()
okashira said:It helps to be able to weld copper.
I weld 0.1mm copper stacked right on top of nickel. Works fine.
The downside is the 0.1mm copper is much more fragile then 0.2mm nickel. I am considering potting it after inspection and testing of packs...
![]()
okashira said:It helps to be able to weld copper.
I weld 0.1mm copper stacked right on top of nickel. Works fine.
The downside is the 0.1mm copper is much more fragile then 0.2mm nickel. I am considering potting it after inspection and testing of packs...
![]()
Nobuo said:okashira said:It helps to be able to weld copper.
I weld 0.1mm copper stacked right on top of nickel. Works fine.
The downside is the 0.1mm copper is much more fragile then 0.2mm nickel. I am considering potting it after inspection and testing of packs...
![]()
How do you weld copper tabs with not getting the poles stick to them?
What kind of poles do you use to weld cooper, a silver made ones?![]()
okashira said:Nobuo said:okashira said:It helps to be able to weld copper.
I weld 0.1mm copper stacked right on top of nickel. Works fine.
The downside is the 0.1mm copper is much more fragile then 0.2mm nickel. I am considering potting it after inspection and testing of packs...
![]()
How do you weld copper tabs with not getting the poles stick to them?
What kind of poles do you use to weld cooper, a silver made ones?![]()
For the welds in the pic, I was actually using copper.
The trick is to use a good amount of pressure... more then you would for nickel. More pressure reduces electrode to copper contact resistance so that connection doesn't heat up as much.
I also sand the nickel that's already welded with some heavy grit paper to make it extra rough, and clean with alcohol. This ensures the contact resistance between the copper and nickel is higher so the weld can initiate more easily.
Sure you still get some sticking sometimes, but not too bad. remove them by pulling to the side to not put a load on the weld.
Running about 1,200 amps and 8ms pulse time on the 2nd pulse for 0.1 copper to nickel.
I think tungsten copper will work pretty well too. I have some electrodes made from that, but I ran out of heat shink to make my 2nd electrode so I have not tested much. (See here http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=67661&start=75#p1037222)