nicobie
100 MW
Nice boxes ebent.
It looks like you have a bit of woodworking blood in you.
It looks like you have a bit of woodworking blood in you.
Show Us Your Homemade Battery Housing
- Thread starter jimw1960
- Start date
chrisvw
10 W
Thanks for the tip on Ping configurations to fit in the triangle. I didn't know he would do triangles. 4 inches sounds like the practical limit for triangle mounts.
ebent
10 kW
nicobie
Yes I do have woodworking skills. Thanks for noticing. However my knowledge on electric stinks. I have a lot to learn. This board is a big help.
ebent
Yes I do have woodworking skills. Thanks for noticing. However my knowledge on electric stinks. I have a lot to learn. This board is a big help.
ebent
AussieJester
1 TW
ebent said:
join the club LoL Nice work on the boxes mate top job
KiM
I have created a custom schematic for my ping 24V 20A battery enclosure. Drawings are made to 1:1 scale for printable templates. Uses a single 5/8 x 7 in. fencing plank found at any lumber yard.
http://www.filedropper.com/ping24v20a
PDF is a higher quality image than is shown.
http://www.filedropper.com/ping24v20a
PDF is a higher quality image than is shown.
Zoot Katz
100 kW
It was just yesterday that I got around to finishing the battery box started back in December.
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12559&p=223734#p220794
Somewhere along the line I decided to suspend the battery inside the box rather than filling the box with padding.
It worked!
View attachment 4
View attachment 1
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=12559&p=223734#p220794
Somewhere along the line I decided to suspend the battery inside the box rather than filling the box with padding.
It worked!
View attachment 4
View attachment 1
dnmun
1 PW
way cool, lotta velcro. can you get it apart? wonder if you could use combo of velcro and foam jammed around the sides, along the sides of the triangle i mean.
Zoot Katz
100 kW
Yep, the battery peels out of the box from the top down. I'd thought about Velcro inside the lid too but then figured it would be too difficult to remove the lid. The 3/16" neoprene in the lid keeps the battery in contact with the Velcro when the lid is secured. The battery doesn't move around at all.
I wanted to avoid padding so there would be some air space.
Note the kill switch is operated with your foot.
I wanted to avoid padding so there would be some air space.
Note the kill switch is operated with your foot.
BlackburnPete
1 W
I put my V-Power 48V 20Ah into a Rubbermaid tote and then I put some sliding flush mount hardware on the rack and the bottom of the tote. I also used a window lock to prevent the pack from sliding out of the mounts.
docnjoj
1 GW
That box is inspirational Zoot. Those Nicads can get pretty hot in heavy use, so the airspace is a great idea. Now U need to cut NASA flush air scoops in and out. Then Rocket assist, of course. 
More my speed is the tupperware below your post. I may put my Ping halves in those kind of Poly boxes and mount them under my seat where the Fatpacks live.
otherDoc
More my speed is the tupperware below your post. I may put my Ping halves in those kind of Poly boxes and mount them under my seat where the Fatpacks live.
otherDoc
Zoot Katz
100 kW
Actually it's a LiFePO4 battery from ebikes.ca. That's the BMS sitting at the back of the pack.docnjoj said:That box is inspirational Zoot. Those Nicads can get pretty hot in heavy use, so the airspace is a great idea. Now U need to cut NASA flush air scoops in and out. Then Rocket assist, of course.
More my speed is the tupperware below your post. I may put my Ping halves in those kind of Poly boxes and mount them under my seat where the Fatpacks live.
otherDoc
Soffit vents from Home Depot would be more my style but the pack has never heated more than a few degrees above ambient temperature either in use or when charging.
The box needs something to protect the resin from UV rays.
I'm thinking about an image of a motorcycle engine that can be printed onto a vinyl transfer.
SilverSurfer
100 W
Mine isnt so original, but it works well for the build style. I like the low set of it, helps stability, less top heavy.
These BIG boxes are for the SLA's only.
Woulndt fit in the nice little chrome ones.
These little one are perfect for the LiFePo4's, but only have one, need one more to get to 48v, wont be long now! Money Money Money!!!
These BIG boxes are for the SLA's only.
Woulndt fit in the nice little chrome ones.
These little one are perfect for the LiFePo4's, but only have one, need one more to get to 48v, wont be long now! Money Money Money!!!
GCinDC
100 MW
My LiPo packs BARELY fit in my triangle, so I've struggled to find a thin material to build a case with, until I remembered the track used with steel studs.
Once the overlaps are fixed, with tape or epoxy, it'll be structurally pretty strong:
Still to do:
- Prime to make rust-proof?
- Handle
- Locking Loop
- Nylon cover with velcro straps
- Connector ports
Oh yeah, remember not to screw the corners using self-tapping screws!
:lol:
Build thread.
Once the overlaps are fixed, with tape or epoxy, it'll be structurally pretty strong:
Still to do:
- Prime to make rust-proof?
- Handle
- Locking Loop
- Nylon cover with velcro straps
- Connector ports
Oh yeah, remember not to screw the corners using self-tapping screws!
:lol: Build thread.
Pablo_1985
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2009
- Messages
- 175
It is a metal box (wich is screw on the bike) covered with a plastic bag (the metal box is not waterproof) and covered with a half and old coronel tapioca backpack wich zipper was broken...the controller is screw on bottom of the rack (topeak),the wires are protected with methacrylate. I have 8 12v 7ah batteries... it is crazy how much it weights XD
Zoot Katz
100 kW
Good job.
You could secure the corners with pop rivets but how will you open the box to service the battery?
You could secure the corners with pop rivets but how will you open the box to service the battery?
GCinDC
100 MW
Pop rivets: Great idea! Hadn't thought of that. Time to get a new tool...
If I went the rivet route, I could secure all corners except two, one nearest bottom bracket where it hinges open, another where i use an ordinary bolt (like the top front, where there's no lipo behind it). Of couse, I wouldn't want to open it much, as the bending would break the steel, but it doesn't need to open much, as in photo 3.
Option two would be just to use two pieces of track, which connect and overlap with screws, again, at joints where there are no lipos.
My biggest challenge so far is finding a way to secure the DB25 (as it's mate needs to stand off a couple inches) and the 8 powerpole plug... I think it's finally time to pay up for this:
PS. All the wires pop out the other side, so most service is done w/ them...
If I went the rivet route, I could secure all corners except two, one nearest bottom bracket where it hinges open, another where i use an ordinary bolt (like the top front, where there's no lipo behind it). Of couse, I wouldn't want to open it much, as the bending would break the steel, but it doesn't need to open much, as in photo 3.
Option two would be just to use two pieces of track, which connect and overlap with screws, again, at joints where there are no lipos.
My biggest challenge so far is finding a way to secure the DB25 (as it's mate needs to stand off a couple inches) and the 8 powerpole plug... I think it's finally time to pay up for this:
PS. All the wires pop out the other side, so most service is done w/ them...
Hyena
10 GW
Just make sure you have plenty of clearance inside so your lipos don't rub. They sit fairly flush and neat on the outside but can protrude about 5mm or so into the inside of the box which is eats about 10mm into your box space once you account for both sides. I made a rivetted together box for my first lipo enclosure and put silicon over them and a layer of thick vinyl and they still deformed little indentations into my lipo packs.GCinDC said:
Great idea, GC, using metal stud track! There are also a bunch of other angle trims available at Home Depot and some of them are aluminum. You could even use some of the really strong double sided neoprene foam tape to stick your folded angles together. Figure out where screws or bolts would not contact the lipos and secure flat side plates. You could have a cover that hinges open like the one on your car for the gas cap!
I joined the Lipo fraternity today and charged batteries under my desk at work!
Dave
I joined the Lipo fraternity today and charged batteries under my desk at work!
Dave
El_Steak
10 kW
GCinDC said:
How about just getting a mounting plate from an old computer ATX case ? You'll find tons of them at any place they sell used computer parts. You could cut off the angled part of the bracket and just pop-rivet it to your box.
Metallover
10 kW
Here's a housing a made for my six 6s turnigy lipos. I still have to make a hold-down and I have a couple L-brakes I will attach with a bolt that I hope to be able to unscrew with my hands.
I need to find something to replace that towl with. Anyone know of some material to fit over that? I would like something blck, waterproof, and durable ideally.
The balance is really good compared to the old rear rack and I can't wait to go for a ride with it this weekend.
I need to find something to replace that towl with. Anyone know of some material to fit over that? I would like something blck, waterproof, and durable ideally.
The balance is really good compared to the old rear rack and I can't wait to go for a ride with it this weekend.
Well, it's not black, but it is fairly durable and can be sewn in ways to make it water resistant at it's seams:
The construction flag flying at the rear is the source for the triangle cover and the cargo pod's side warning cover.
The construction flag flying at the rear is the source for the triangle cover and the cargo pod's side warning cover.
GCinDC
100 MW
Very nice, Metalover!
I just got a yard (x 54") of Nylon Cordura at a local fabric store. Quick web search for same stuff. The back is slick, like plastic (and sticky back velcro loves it), and the front is backpack or duffle bag material.
Nice idea, El_Steak, but the problem is not that part of the DB25, but the handle of its mate (w/ BM6 dongles)... It'd be easy to mount the ports to the side of the pack, but then the powerpole plug and DB25 connector will stick out another inch or two... So I need to recess them...
I just got a yard (x 54") of Nylon Cordura at a local fabric store. Quick web search for same stuff. The back is slick, like plastic (and sticky back velcro loves it), and the front is backpack or duffle bag material.
Nice idea, El_Steak, but the problem is not that part of the DB25, but the handle of its mate (w/ BM6 dongles)... It'd be easy to mount the ports to the side of the pack, but then the powerpole plug and DB25 connector will stick out another inch or two... So I need to recess them...
Mark_A_W
100 kW
Metallover said:
Umm...black duct tape?
Metallover
10 kW
GCinDC said:
Mark_A_W said:
Good Ideas... I need it to be removable, so duct tape will sit on the back burner. It is cheap, easy to find, and I could make some "Material" out of it.
The Nylon Cordura looks very nice. I will have a look-see at the local shops. That is the exact stuff I was looking for. Thanks for the link!
