They used that fuse for a reason, to protect the system.
I don't recommend changing it for a higher rating--if you find you blow it in normal operation, then it means the system is being used outside it's intended abilities, and using a higher rated fuse essentially bypasses the protection the original gave. It'd still blow in situations like the one you just had, but wouldn't in a simple small overload situation, and if other controller / system protections didn't work for any reason, other system parts could fail that are much harder and more expensive to replace, as well as harder to troubleshoot and locate all of.
Fuse voltage simply means it is guaranteed to break a circuit at that voltage and keep it from arcing and continuing to flow current. So it has to be rated *at least* as high as the worst-case voltage the system would ever see under any conditions, and preferably higher.
They're also rated for DC or AC or both; AC goes to zero volts a certain number of times per second, DC never does (while powered on), so the AC rating is with that expectation, and it may not be capable of breaking a DC circuit at that same voltage, usually something much lower. If it has a dual rating, it might be something like 250VAC / 50VDC, etc. If there's no DC rating, it's a (possibly educated) guess as to what it's voltage limit would be.
Fuses don't work by watts.
They're rated for a certain amount of current for a certain amount of time; there's a chart for this on the fuse manufacturer site. Bussman are fairly easy to find and read. For instance, if your fuse is like this one
then this spec sheet linked on that page
says about time vs current vs rating:
Electrical Characteristics
Rated Current % of Amp Rating Opening Time
1/10 - 30A 110% 4 hours. min.
135% 60 minutes max.
1/10 - 2A 200% 5 seconds max.
2.5 - 30A 200% 2 minutes max.
Meaning if the fuse is rated for 15A, then you could use 110% of that , or 16.5A, for at least 4 hours before it could blow. You could use 135% of that, or 20.25A, for an hour, max. 200% or 30A, for 2 minutes max. (max means it could below before that, but isn't guaranteed to, but will blow by that time under that continuous current).
There's also a chart for current vs time:
Also, most of those fuseholders are garbage and will cause you problems you never imagined--voltage drop, overheating, intermittent connections, arcing, fire, etc.
If the fuse is soldered in...I'd stick with that method.
If you must change it to a fuseholder, get a *very good*, very well-made fuseholder designed for the intended usage, from a reputable dependable seller (not amazon, ebay, ali*, etc)--it's going to cost more, but it will work and keep working.