Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike

3DTOPO said:
They are sold under the name Segway (even at Walmart but it is the low voltage model).

Thanks for the reply. I am open to getting a Segway if I can get one sooner then later but would want the x260.

SlowCo said:
FERNSURFER said:
Do any of you have a line on where to buy today or soon?

NTDWM (no idea if they are reputable, do your own research) but I found this company that still seems to have stock (black & green):
https://ebikezilla.com/en/100000-sur-ron-x

Thanks SlowCo. I actually spoke with them a couple of days ago and currently they can't ship to US. They said they should be able to soon though and they are taking pre orders so I am thinking about doing that. Still a few months out for expected delivery.
 
GhostShoes said:
Has anyone tried to power a 12v trolling motor off their Sur-Ron battery before? Thinking about taking the dinghy out this summer and tired of carrying lead acid batteries.

A 12v trolling motor won't be too happy at 60v. It may be possible to use a large dc-dc converter to drop it down to 12v for the motor. With a dc-dc converter, it should work well. The battery is supposed to be rain resistant, but there have been reports of water ingress causing the display part to fail, so be sure to keep it dry. It might not be a bad idea to put the battery in a plastic bag just to be sure.
 
Has anyone had good experiences with aftermarket batteries? I'm trying to decide which one I can/want to go with. My ideal battery would be:
- 72 Volts
- 40 Amp-Hours (or better)
- Fits in the stock holder (or at most come with a spacer kit for the lid like several do).

However the only battery I've been able to find that fits all these is the 72v45ah Zemso. I might be able to save up for the very high listed cost, but he doesn't ship to the US so its a non-starter.

The other options I've found so far are SurRonShop/Dan Orlov's 60v52ah battery or one from litespeedbikes. If I have to trade off higher voltage versus higher range I'd prefer the higher range, so I'd lean toward the SurRonShop 52ah one as the base price is quite competitive, but shipping from Russia adds $800. LiteSpeedBikes is located domestically which should reduce shipping costs, but they seem to have the lowest energy density cells/construction, as their batteries are huge compared to others. I really don't like the look of batteries sticking 4+ inches out of the top of the battery well.
 
Wh (energy) is what provides range. You can't directly compare Ah of two different battery voltages. Your desired spec of 72A * 40Ah = 2.88kWh. W/ a 60V battery you will need 2.88kWh/60V=48Ah to get the exact same range.
 
Good point, thanks. After more thought I'm probably going to go with the Litespeed 72v32ah battery as the most practically-available to me option. Maybe getting the tank-bag addon battery they offer in the future if I need more range.
 
how do you guys raise the kickstand ground level after changing to 26in front wheel? It needs about 1.5 inch
 
ahnYlwqlYD1hWeR5QGqL said:
Good point, thanks. After more thought I'm probably going to go with the Litespeed 72v32ah battery as the most practically-available to me option. Maybe getting the tank-bag addon battery they offer in the future if I need more range.
It's unfortunate there are not more options here in the US. My Litespeed battery has faired well (since last summer), but it took him about 3 months to deliver. I haven't shopped for these for a while, but one other option I know of is Teznic (Toronto). Shipping cost to US is reasonable. I bought a BAC8000 controller from them (for which they provided reasonable support), and they sell battery upgrades as well. Looks like they're currently out of stock, but that's no surprise. Tom should answer your questions quickly.
Assuming ALL of your rides don't need the extra range, I think it's a good idea to buy a battery that will fit in the stock location, and then use add on batteries when necessary. However, if you do rough trail riding, keep in mind that a tank battery is heavy and needs a mounting method that is very robust. The bag strapping shown on the Litespeed site probably wouldn't last long on rough trails (ridden with gusto).
I ended up building my own custom battery that I put under the seat which was more solid and also kept the CG lower. If you're curious you can check out my post on this thread last fall - page 207 - Oct.6.
 
My second Litespeed battery is 3 days from delivery, this time around 2 months,but 2 weeks of that is by ship.
 
BCTECH said:
how do you guys raise the kickstand ground level after changing to 26in front wheel? It needs about 1.5 inch

anyone know where to get this ? or something similar:
IMAGE_1587028297136_4393919731408113769.jpg
 
Looks like a leveling foot from here. You would need to drill and tap a hole in the stand end if one is not there.
machine-furniture-foot-rubber-plastic-pad-with-metal-screw-foot-level-Industrial-pedestal-bolts-plastic-bolts.jpg
 
speedmd said:
Looks like a leveling foot from here. You would need to drill and tap a hole in the stand end if one is not there.
machine-furniture-foot-rubber-plastic-pad-with-metal-screw-foot-level-Industrial-pedestal-bolts-plastic-bolts.jpg
tks. the odd shape of the kickstand will be hard to drill / tap straight
 
fechter said:
GhostShoes said:
Has anyone tried to power a 12v trolling motor off their Sur-Ron battery before? Thinking about taking the dinghy out this summer and tired of carrying lead acid batteries.

A 12v trolling motor won't be too happy at 60v. It may be possible to use a large dc-dc converter to drop it down to 12v for the motor. With a dc-dc converter, it should work well. The battery is supposed to be rain resistant, but there have been reports of water ingress causing the display part to fail, so be sure to keep it dry. It might not be a bad idea to put the battery in a plastic bag just to be sure.
Forgive me since I'm not super electrically inclined, but would something like this work?

https://www.daygreen.com/products/48v-60v-72v-to-12v-50a-600w-dc-dc-step-down-converter-voltage-regulator-w-acc-swtich?variant=11912134950959

My Minn Kota only pulls something like 40 amps at 12v max I think?
 
BCTECH said:
speedmd said:
Looks like a leveling foot from here. You would need to drill and tap a hole in the stand end if one is not there.
machine-furniture-foot-rubber-plastic-pad-with-metal-screw-foot-level-Industrial-pedestal-bolts-plastic-bolts.jpg
tks. the odd shape of the kickstand will be hard to drill / tap straight

Nothing a basic level and bevel or protractor can't cure with a bit of reverse engineering. If you have none, just use your cell phone with one of several free level apps. Once you have the two angles (off of the x and y directions), a drill press will keep things perfect if you can hold it steady.
 
GhostShoes said:
Forgive me since I'm not super electrically inclined, but would something like this work?

https://www.daygreen.com/products/48v-60v-72v-to-12v-50a-600w-dc-dc-step-down-converter-voltage-regulator-w-acc-swtich?variant=11912134950959

My Minn Kota only pulls something like 40 amps at 12v max I think?

Yes. That's what you would need.
 
tks. the odd shape of the kickstand will be hard to drill / tap straight
[/quote]

I'd take the stand off the bike and put it in a vice and drill from the bottom where it's flat. It doesn't need to be perfectly level.
 
And what is the best size to fit the stock kickstand? Any link of that leveling pad?
 
A rubber faced leveling foot would be nice in showrooms, but may not last long in this app. I would just use a standard hex head bolt and sturdy bushing (cut section of Pipe) to get the correct extension if it were mine. The bushing would allow even a smaller diameter bolt to be much more sturdy. Washers would work also. 5/16" or 8mm should be plenty strong.
 
I've needed to extend a few kickstands over the years. I just took them down to a local welding shop. They cut them, weld in a short section, grind it smooth and repaint. Looks factory and usually $20 to $25.
 
Need help with these brakes, every video i see people just slip on new pads, but mine wouldn't fit on! I took of the calipers and put in new pads, i tried to push on the pad with a flat head and tried to pry them apart before i even removed the old pads and they are not budging at all! What do i do do i have to bleed this ish!?! Ahhh i cant ride my bike! Need to ride this tonight!!! Whyyyyy?!?!
 
So, im building my own 72V battery for a surron - I need a case to put the battery in, does anyone know anywhere you can just buy after market surron battery cases? or any 3d printed STL files ?

Or where i could buy an empty surron battery case?


Thanks all

Terry
 
I've looked. I don't think anything exists. I've thought about putting some aluminum through the brake and then welding the two halves together to form the rectanglular tube but that is beyond most peoples equipment. Even if you could 3D print something, you want GOOD impact protection which I don't think 3D printing can really provide. (Think of the fire hazard contained inside those little metal cans if you case is punctured and shorts something.) The sides of the SurRon batt are exposed through the frame to large rocks, etc if you ride offroad. LiteSpeed looks to use polycarbonate sheets glued together into a box. That seems like one of the best (and easiest) idea. Its easy to glue together and tough as nails. I solvent welded (glued) a polycarbonate housing for the LiPo pack I made for the kid's OSET bike.
 
Best material would be G10 made from 1/8 to 3/16 sheet and fiberglass the corners.G10 is tough stuff but cuts easy enough.I do have a extra Surron case.
 
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