Rix
100 TW
SKF units are top notch. I always swap out the stock units on my DD hub motors for SKF units.Quinc said:
Sur-Ron - New Mid drive Bike
- Thread starter Allex
- Start date
that1guy
100 mW
Does anybody know the pinout / wiring diagram of the surron programming/diagnostics cable? It has an LED that will flash out error codes. I lost mine many years ago. Trying to trouble shoot faults but don't want to wait around for shipping.
https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-diagnostic-and-programming-dongle/
https://lunacycle.com/sur-ron-diagnostic-and-programming-dongle/
I don't know of a schematic for the device or a code repository for it (most likely it uses an MCU you'd have to program correctly even if you built the device).
FWIW, according to another post about that device, even if you had the device, you have to contact Luna to find out what the codes mean (another poster said they don't give out the codes...though if anyone here that has ever gotten an answer from them about a specific code would post that code and the answer here, we could compile a list anyone could access.
)
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=89902&start=5750#p1734135
FWIW, according to another post about that device, even if you had the device, you have to contact Luna to find out what the codes mean (another poster said they don't give out the codes...though if anyone here that has ever gotten an answer from them about a specific code would post that code and the answer here, we could compile a list anyone could access.
)https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=89902&start=5750#p1734135
that1guy
100 mW
Code repository...programming a micro.... 
huh? You're over complicating it, lol.
It's just LED that blinks X flashes. LED blinks vs error code / meaning:
https://sur-ron.ch/pdf/Light_bee_L1e_blink_code_EN.pdf
I'm trying to figure what two wires the LED goes between. If there's some who actually has the harness, please chime in
huh? You're over complicating it, lol.It's just LED that blinks X flashes. LED blinks vs error code / meaning:
https://sur-ron.ch/pdf/Light_bee_L1e_blink_code_EN.pdf
I'm trying to figure what two wires the LED goes between. If there's some who actually has the harness, please chime in
Ok. Sorry. Previous posters made it sound more complex than that, as if it were a custom device made by Luna, and also sound like the codes weren't available except from Luna.
Is there a pinout available for the connectors at either end of that cable? If so, I can at least guess which wires you can probably use to connect the LED to, if that would be helpful.
Is there a pinout available for the connectors at either end of that cable? If so, I can at least guess which wires you can probably use to connect the LED to, if that would be helpful.
Allex
100 MW
codes are avail on internet just google
https://sur-ron.ch/pdf/Light_bee_L1e_blink_code_EN.pdf
https://sur-ron.ch/pdf/Light_bee_L1e_blink_code_EN.pdf
that1guy
100 mW
amberwolf said:
Here's the pinout of battery 6-pin connector. I imagine the LED is wired from one of those Comms to ground, probably with a resistor in series. I imagine one could simply remove the tape on the debug harness and see how the LED is wired.
Reference
https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/knowledge-base/surron/147526-sur-ron-manual
Is the RS485 used for anything on the bike in normal operation? If not, I would guess that is more likely to be used for the diagnostic LED codes, presuming the comms lines are used to talk to a display. If the RS485 lines are used for the display, then the comms lines are probably used for the LED codes.
It should be relatively easy to find out which:
--if there is a simple way to cause a harmless error condition (like unplugging the throttle, etc) then a voltmeter (or LED with a 1kohm-10kohm dropping resistor in series with it to prevent overloading either the LED or any commline drivers in the circuit being tested) can be used between ground and each signal line in question, without disconnecting any of the signal lines (either probing from the back of the connector if you can touch the contacts, or poking thru the insulation of the wire itself).
If all you see on the voltmeter is about 2.5v, it's probably an active communications line with serial data passing thru it. On an LED it would appear to be a relatively steady dim glow (dimmer than when connected to 5v, anyway; it migh flicker a little depending on the contents of the datastream).
If you see a fixed voltage on the meter or steady LED on (or off) and you know it is (should be) generating a blink code, then it's probalby just not an active wire.
If you see a changing voltage on the meter (at the rate expected of the blink code), or the blink code on the LED, that's the right wire.
It should be relatively easy to find out which:
--if there is a simple way to cause a harmless error condition (like unplugging the throttle, etc) then a voltmeter (or LED with a 1kohm-10kohm dropping resistor in series with it to prevent overloading either the LED or any commline drivers in the circuit being tested) can be used between ground and each signal line in question, without disconnecting any of the signal lines (either probing from the back of the connector if you can touch the contacts, or poking thru the insulation of the wire itself).
If all you see on the voltmeter is about 2.5v, it's probably an active communications line with serial data passing thru it. On an LED it would appear to be a relatively steady dim glow (dimmer than when connected to 5v, anyway; it migh flicker a little depending on the contents of the datastream).
If you see a fixed voltage on the meter or steady LED on (or off) and you know it is (should be) generating a blink code, then it's probalby just not an active wire.
If you see a changing voltage on the meter (at the rate expected of the blink code), or the blink code on the LED, that's the right wire.
that1guy
100 mW
LED attached to RS485... what? :lol: I attached the full surron wiring diagram. As you will note, RS485 connects the battery, motor controller, and display on the same bus.
Reiterating, the LED must be connected some combination of those two Comm lines (purple or blue wires) and ground.
Yes i could start probing voltages in the harness. But would rather not play the guessing game. Hoping someone out there has the diagnostic harness and can simply look at the wiring of it.
Reiterating, the LED must be connected some combination of those two Comm lines (purple or blue wires) and ground.
Yes i could start probing voltages in the harness. But would rather not play the guessing game. Hoping someone out there has the diagnostic harness and can simply look at the wiring of it.
Sorry I couldn't help.
All I can do is provide educated guesses based on information presented and past experience as I don't have a Surron or it's documentation, and have my own stuff I'm working on so didn't spend time trying to dig up wiring diagrams.
Either serial bus is a viable option to output an error code on. Which one is used I can't know any more than anyone else without the specifics of exactly how this system works, or a wiring harness with the LED to measure or disassemble.
All I can do is provide educated guesses based on information presented and past experience as I don't have a Surron or it's documentation, and have my own stuff I'm working on so didn't spend time trying to dig up wiring diagrams.
Either serial bus is a viable option to output an error code on. Which one is used I can't know any more than anyone else without the specifics of exactly how this system works, or a wiring harness with the LED to measure or disassemble.
I don't have one of those either and would love to see the diagram to make one. It must be very simple. It just looks like wires, an LED and probably a resistor. There could be a jumper that enables the diagnostic mode, but I'll have to search again for the instructions on using it.
that1guy
100 mW
fechter said:
I was probing around with my oscope and found that purple wire, relative to chassis ground, blips up to 4.5V for 0.2s every 2s. This is considered one LED blink. If I unplug my throttle, I get 15 blinks = error code 211 = throttle short to gnd.
The purple wire has about 1.5kΩ of source resistance, so it's safe to wire an LED directly from purple wire to ground (picture).
I ended up permanently soldering the LED to the purple wire so that I can debug while out on the road
. This should be a standard feature. How many peoples' surrons suddenly stopped working... and then start playing the whack-a-mole guessing game as to what might be broke. Hmm is it the throttle...kickstand...tilt switch...brake switch? Then start unplugging each to find out.I have seen newer surron models on the internet with a fancy display that shows error codes. Nice. Where can we get that?
That's awesome! Thanks for posting. A permanent indicator is a great idea.
X-Nitro
10 W
Thx for doing tests and the slick mod idea.
This makes sense, because the diagnostic lead controller side purple wire, is not present on the battery end. :thumb:
This makes sense, because the diagnostic lead controller side purple wire, is not present on the battery end. :thumb:
Pin 3 appears to be some kind of temperature sensor input that can stop the charger if the battery is too hot. The charger works with this disconnected, but you lose the overtemp safety feature.
Doctorbass
100 GW
Wattster said:
That is a great idea. It work very well and take large input voltage range for the source!
Doc
Wattster
10 W
- Joined
- Oct 31, 2022
- Messages
- 71
Has anyone played with this new Power Booster? Seems they are delaying the communications between the BMS and controller to allow you to pull higher amps for longer. $300 is pretty steep for something that might with my bike as they say it only fits 2021 bikes and some later ones
Thoughts?
https://surronshop.world/products/surronshop-power-booster
Thoughts?
https://surronshop.world/products/surronshop-power-booster
Attachments
Cheburator
10 W
- Joined
- May 2, 2018
- Messages
- 75
Allex
100 MW
[youtube]vB3wpPkQOaE[/youtube]
Cheburator
10 W
- Joined
- May 2, 2018
- Messages
- 75
Allex said:
Thank you, but I believe this tail tidy is too short for my big number plate, it will be crushed by rear wheel on first bump.
