Suspension seat

[scianiac]

Crank length effects a number of things, some less relevant on an ebike some more. For pedaling the length generally depends on how long your legs are. The reasons I went with shorter cranks (in order of importance) was increased body motion and comfort, less pedal strikes when starting from a stop, and weight reduction. When your feet are close together you have better range of motion in your legs and hips. I was surprised how much but it's easy to try, just stand with your feet side by side and crouch then move your feet forward and back like they were on pedals and try crouching again, you'll find you can't comfortably crouch nearly as far.

The problem though is finding cranks that are reasonably priced and fit your BB. That can be a real pain, my bike uses a front freewheel so I needed threaded trials cranks which may have made it easier as I was able to find 150mm Jitsie cranks pretty easily. Keep in mind I am quite short so that may be too short for you to be comfortable to pedal.

Generally I'm standing up all the time while riding but I have been working on an experimental lightweight 3D printed suspension seatpost for those smoother areas to rest my legs a bit.

 

[Chalo]

Crank length effects a number of things, some less relevant on an ebike some more. For pedaling the length generally depends on how long your legs are. The reasons I went with shorter cranks (in order of importance) was increased body motion and comfort, less pedal strikes when starting from a stop, and weight reduction.

Due to space constraints, at the moment I only have one e-bike and one acoustic bike at home with me. (The rest are in my container off site.) The e-bike has my shortest cranks at the moment, 170mm, mostly to enable me to pedal along fast at the motorized top speed, but also to reduce the chance of pedal strike. The acoustic bike has 225mm cranks because those allow me to push harder, longer, with less perceived effort.

Most of my bikes have 185mm cranks as a compromise between ground clearance and what works best for my legs.

 

[999zip999]

Here's my third buster it's supposed to have two of those rubber pieces I think I took one and cut it in half and stuck it in there it made the seat go back furtherhttps://photos.app.goo.gl/kptw8tWwM6hjf7S4A which is good for a 6 ft 4 250 lb man. Plus when you put two in there it makes it really high. Plus it moves a seat forward see how far back it is away from the handlebars. Styling
I was the first one to buy those exercise seats and put them on a bike and I got four of them for $5 each because sefus add a bike swap meet and they're selling out and going golfing did know what to do with them.

New item by Robert Slubowski

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[99t4]

My cranks are 170 mm. I am thinking of trying shorter cranks. What length should I try? Shorter cranks would get both feet closer together when the pedals are at 9 and 3 o'clock.

Might as well try 150mm

When at 6 o'clock and I stand on it with most of my weight, it would get me higher up off the seat so my leg absorb most of the shock instead of my butt.

Guessing you are describing what we do in preparation to minimize transmitted shock when hitting large bumps or going down or up curbs? IME, much better done while standing on the pedals when they are horizontal (9 and 3 or 3 and 9 o'clock), NOT vertical as you describe.

What other differences will I notice?

Might need to raise the saddle in compensation. Generally we set the saddle height so the down leg is almost straight when seated with that pedal at 6 o'clock. (This mainly for those who pedal. Seems to be the best ergonomic and biomechanical position to minimize possible excessive stress to the knees. Since you don't really pedal, it probably doesn't matter.)

Should be easier to pedal at a higher cadence than before. (Again, since you really don't pedal, it probably doesn't matter.)

Might possibly be a little more difficult to mount the bicycle if you use the "place foot on the pedal, swing other leg over saddle while rolling forward" method.

 

[Zambam]

Since pedaling does not move bike w/o chain, my default position is with down (right) leg on the pedal at 6 o'clock, ready to stop at traffic lights. With the seat on it's lowest setting, my leg is almost totally straight with pedal at 6. That's why I can't use any suspension seat post, which will make the seat even higher. If I was taller or have longer inseams I wouldn't have these problems.

 

[Chalo]

Since pedaling does not move bike w/o chain, my default position is with down (right) leg on the pedal at 6 o'clock, ready to stop at traffic lights.

I don't see any downside to having a chain on your bike. I know you objected to chain slap, but either a better derailleur or wrapping the chainstay with sacrificial material would fix that.

I also don't see why you continue to ride a bike that's too tall for you. "One size" is a hallmark of terrible cheap bikes, but I'm not one-size and neither are you. You'd be much much better off with a bike that fits you, plus a hub motor conversion kit. You could sell your Arrow to some one-size chump who can make better use of it.

 

[Zambam]

I don't see any downside to having a chain on your bike. I know you objected to chain slap, but either a better derailleur or wrapping the chainstay with sacrificial material would fix that.

I also don't see why you continue to ride a bike that's too tall for you. "One size" is a hallmark of terrible cheap bikes, but I'm not one-size and neither are you. You'd be much much better off with a bike that fits you, plus a hub motor conversion kit. You could sell your Arrow to some one-size chump who can make better use of it.

The frame is not too tall for me since I can straddle it with both feet flat on the ground. Seat is higher than I like because of the additional height the seat/battery lock mechanism adds. I will try to fit a regular seat post which should lower the seat.

I don't think the Arrow is a cheap quality bike. It is the delivery bike of choice around here. There's literally "millions" of them on the road. They run and run and run. I do like it and it has been very reliable. Parts are easy to get. There are probably at least 8 shops within a 10 mile radius that I can go to for parts.

 

[Chalo]

The frame is not too tall for me since I can straddle it with both feet flat on the ground.

Fifty years ago, that's how you would have selected a bike that fit you. But fifty years ago, all bike frames that came in multiple sizes had level top tubes. The Arrow e-bike doesn't have a level top tube and it doesn't fit that way.

For what it's worth, in those days after finding the tallest frame you could stand over, you'd set the seat with a "fistful" of seatpost showing (exposed section of post the width of your hand). That presumed pedaling, of course.

Seat is higher than I like because of the additional height the seat/battery lock mechanism adds.

So you can see the bike is too tall for you. One-size bikes leave out anybody who's much taller or shorter than the anticipated size. That's why legitimate, decent quality bikes come in a range of sizes.

I don't think the Arrow is a cheap quality bike.

Go ahead and think that. But all the issues you've brought up here are characteristic of department store bikes, cheap mail order bikes, and other shoddy bicycle-shaped objects. If it looks like a duck and quacks like a duck....

It is the delivery bike of choice around here. There's literally "millions" of them on the road. They run and run and run. I do like it and it has been very reliable. Parts are easy to get. There are probably at least 8 shops within a 10 mile radius that I can go to for parts.

That's one advantage, offset by all the problems you've already brought up, plus others you haven't mentioned yet. And it doesn't fit you.

You can do better. Is this a peer pressure thing you're dealing with?

 

[Zambam]

Well what do I know. I thought the Arrow has a proprietary down tube i.d. but it is actually 27.2 mm and there is also a clamp at the top of down tube. I borrowed the seat post from my old mountain bike which is 26.5 mm dia, shimmed it with aluminum flashing and was able to tighten the clamp so the seat does not rotate. It's as low as it can go and seat height is now almost perfect.

 

[glennb]

You can lop the seat tube to lower it further.

And use a post with less setback to bring it further forward.

 

[Zambam]

You can lop the seat tube to lower it further.

And use a post with less setback to bring it further forward.

Lop as in cut it shorter? I don't think the end of seat tube is bottomed out in the down tube. I need to buy a 27.2 mm seat post since this one is the wrong diameter and belongs on another bike. Can you suggest one from Amazon?

 

[Chalo]

Lop as in cut it shorter? I don't think the end of seat tube is bottomed out in the down tube. I need to buy a 27.2 mm seat post since this one is the wrong diameter and belongs on another bike. Can you suggest one from Amazon?

He means cut off the top of the frame to shorten it. That's feasible as long as there's enough room for the relief slot.

 

[glennb]

Yes. Exactly. You can also shorten the seat post if it bottoms out.

Pack a greasy rag, or some other type of plug in to the seat tube. Cut an inch off the top. Extend the slot downward by an inch. File the rough edges smooth. Remove the plug.

For a seat post, any normal bike shop should have a box of used posts that you can rummage through. If buying online, look for one with infinite tilt adjustment. I.e. that does not use a system of notches that lock you into fixed angles.

 

[Zambam]

He means cut off the top of the frame to shorten it. That's feasible as long as there's enough room for the relief slot.

Ahh that makes more sense. I don't need the seat to go any lower though, for now. Need more time riding it to find out. There's not much room before the head of the seat tube hits the battery.

 

[Zambam]

My aliexpress suspension seat https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255...st_main.5.73f11802fBaEgF&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa was delivered this morning in an envelop 5" x 5" x 1/4" that weighs 8 grams. Inside was a piece of thin plastic object about 3" long x 1/2" wide that I have no idea what it is for.

I've not had any issues with things I've ordered and received from Aliexpress, until now. How about you? I messaged the seller with a photo of the package. Hope they will straighten this out fast and send the correct item.

 

[scianiac]

I've ordered a lot of stuff from aliexpress and generally it's been pretty good, I've had a few issues but mostly good and the seller arbitration is decent. I would say I've gotten about the same number of incorrect items from amazon as aliexpress although probably a little less percentage wise. Just got an incorrect tap from amazon the other day, ordered a spiral M5 tap and get an M6 thread forming tap. Decided to keep it instead of return it because it was worth more, I may use it and I ordered two different M5 taps and the other one fit to thread my torque arms and that one wouldn't have. Yes I have at least two other tap and die sets but am slowly replacing the sizes I use a lot with nice high quality ones.

I did order a carbon fiber and 3D printed lattice seat from aliexpress a little while ago. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, got it mostly for the weight (ok and maybe just a little bit for looks) but we'll see how comfortable it is.

 

[999zip999]

That's the newest suspension seat technology I weigh 250 lb. Would this be good for me.
Plus I have a new Avatar me at 3 and a half years old on my new bike.

 

[Zambam]

I've ordered a lot of stuff from aliexpress and generally it's been pretty good, I've had a few issues but mostly good and the seller arbitration is decent. I would say I've gotten about the same number of incorrect items from amazon as aliexpress although probably a little less percentage wise. Just got an incorrect tap from amazon the other day, ordered a spiral M5 tap and get an M6 thread forming tap. Decided to keep it instead of return it because it was worth more, I may use it and I ordered two different M5 taps and the other one fit to thread my torque arms and that one wouldn't have. Yes I have at least two other tap and die sets but am slowly replacing the sizes I use a lot with nice high quality ones.

I did order a carbon fiber and 3D printed lattice seat from aliexpress a little while ago. Haven't had a chance to try it out yet, got it mostly for the weight (ok and maybe just a little bit for looks) but we'll see how comfortable it is.

What's the arbitration process? I assume there's a third independent party involved and not just dealing with the seller? I recall reading a refund request must be filed within 15 days. Is that right?

 

[Zambam]

That's the newest suspension seat technology I weigh 250 lb. Would this be good for me.
Plus I have a new Avatar me at 3 and a half years old on my new bike.

Probably not.

 

[Zambam]

...................

For a seat post, any normal bike shop should have a box of used posts that you can rummage through. If buying online, look for one with infinite tilt adjustment. I.e. that does not use a system of notches that lock you into fixed angles.

Called one bike shop this morning if they have used posts but they want $15 ea. I may as well buy a new one for $16 on Amazon. Is this one the kind with infinte tilt? Amazon.com Do they tend to slip w/o notches?

 

[glennb]

For $15 they’d want to be good posts in excellent condition.

The Amazon post ought to be fine. It’s a common design.

There’s other ways to design the tilt ability. My favourite are race face evolve, with the tilt function independent from rail clamping mechanism.

Designs without notches won’t slip. It’s single bolt designs that can slip.

The post you’re considering has a little setback, perhaps 10mm. You can also get zero setback posts, on Amazon if you prefer.

 

[Zambam]

For $15 they’d want to be good posts in excellent condition.

The Amazon post ought to be fine. It’s a common design.

There’s other ways to design the tilt ability. My favourite are race face evolve, with the tilt function independent from rail clamping mechanism.

Designs without notches won’t slip. It’s single bolt designs that can slip.

The post you’re considering has a little setback, perhaps 10mm. You can also get zero setback posts, on Amazon if you prefer.

What's the purpose of setback other than to move the seat further back? Why is setback spec not mentioned in the technical details in the ads?

 

[Chalo]

What's the purpose of setback other than to move the seat further back? Why is setback spec not mentioned in the technical details in the ads?

Seatpost setback affects your position over the pedals and your reach to the handlebars. The average setback is about 25mm simply due to the usual methods of attaching the saddle to the post.

Saddles vary in how much setback they support, based on where the clampable sections of the rails are located under the saddle.

 

[glennb]

Like Chalo says.

It’s unusual to need much setback, unless you use a short railed saddle such as a Brooks, or perhaps have relatively long thigh bones.

If you find yourself wanting the saddle positioned all the way fore or aft, it’s sensible to get a post with correct setback to achieve the desired position with the rails clamped closer to the center of their range.

 

[Zambam]

What's the arbitration process? I assume there's a third independent party involved and not just dealing with the seller? I recall reading a refund request must be filed within 15 days. Is that right?

I think the seller was dorking me around, asked me if I received the package and a 5 start rating AFTER I told them I received the wrong item! I then asked for a refund (first time for me on Aliexpress) figuring they are trying to run out the refund clock with delay tactics. Seller agreed and issued a (pending) refund and again asked for a 5 star rating.

I still want to try the saddle out and asked the seller if I should order another one and whether I will get the correct item the second time around. Waiting for their response.