Jazzman56
100 mW
Any more updates ?
The suspense is nerve-racking
The suspense is nerve-racking
LightningRods said:Hah! The last bits are in at the laser cutter. Last week was a holiday here in the US so everyone was useless. I'll be on them today asking where my parts are. All I need are the chain guards and both drives are completed.
I'm having a special ported case Big Block made for Electric God. The air circulation should allow for maximum power. He's going to run it with his giant Kelly scooter controller as well as the Adaptto Midi-e and Sabvoton.
LightningRods said:Hypothetical discussions are always a bit pointless. It's always best to run real world tests and know for sure.
If you're running 82 volts you would only be running about 61 amps @ 5000 watts. I've run the big block at 52V 70 amps without it getting hot. Cheekybloke is running around Sheffield with a closed case big block at just over 5000 watts without overheating. It will be interesting to see what kind of peak power we get with the ported case motor. At 100 volts with a ported case it should be at a whole new level.
I had a customer running the small block at 100V 50A two years ago. I didn't promote those numbers because I had visions of melted and exploded motors coming back at me. The harder you push your equipment, the shorter it's lifespan. That's true of internal combustion, it's true of electric motors.
LightningRods said:I have another customer, Andrew Jenkins, who plans to make a land speed record run in his velomobile equipped with a Big Block. He has a truly terrifying 400A battery that he plans to use. He'll be testing the motor at Swansea University's engineering department before setting the power limits. He needs a 120 second burst to reach the speed he's after. His motor is also equipped with a 10k thermistor so we'll get some good data on the operating temps.
Cheeky said that he wasn't seeing much over 140 degrees. It has been very cold in Sheffield lately so that may be contributing.
Two more days until Qulbix parts. I hope the laser shop actually hits their delivery date for a change.
ElectricGod said:I know this much, when my temp meter reads 150F and I touch the motor, it's uncomfortably hot...like 150F should be. I can always put a second temp meter on the outside of the motor case and see what that reads. My existing temp sensor is inside the windings where it is likely to read the most accurate motor temperature. I'm just saying something is hinky and I don't know what it is...me or other peoples reports of motor wattage.
John Bozi said:ElectricGod said:I know this much, when my temp meter reads 150F and I touch the motor, it's uncomfortably hot...like 150F should be. I can always put a second temp meter on the outside of the motor case and see what that reads. My existing temp sensor is inside the windings where it is likely to read the most accurate motor temperature. I'm just saying something is hinky and I don't know what it is...me or other peoples reports of motor wattage.
It sounds like what I always report, that the outside is hotter than the inside reading to the CA. Usually around 10 degrees C more on the outside. Just like my temp probless hub where I add 40 degrees c to what I record on the outside. I just go by the ca add 30 degrees c should come out in the wash as still under 100 degrees C whatever.... not worth worrying about...
but precise recordings would surely be satisfying.
ElectricGod said:Are you sure your temp sensors are working correctl?
izeman said:you should test your temp sensor at ambient, and then put it in boiling water and see if it reads 100C. then you can be sure.
John Bozi said:ElectricGod said:Are you sure your temp sensors are working correctl?
as sure as you I thought I already said. I am not sure at all.
Note, before riding temperature of CA / inside motor is exactly ambient.
So whatever the drift of readings happen once things heat up.
In a nutshell I trust the IF gun readings of the outside more than the inside / CA readings. so if CA says 50 degrees C outside IF gun says about 60 C so if I take a wild guess that the outside is more accurate and the inside must be hotter than the outside therefore its a bit like hub motor temps which are out by about 30c..... so its still under 100c...
anyways repeating myself and none of this has to do with the mid drive raptor.
PM if u have accurate / more info on this.
Can you? I don't knowElectricGod said:izeman said:you should test your temp sensor at ambient, and then put it in boiling water and see if it reads 100C. then you can be sure.
Good idea except the temp sensor is buried inside our motors. Can I just pour boiling water into my motor instead? LOL
izeman said:Can you? I don't knowElectricGod said:izeman said:you should test your temp sensor at ambient, and then put it in boiling water and see if it reads 100C. then you can be sure.
Good idea except the temp sensor is buried inside our motors. Can I just pour boiling water into my motor instead? LOL
The idea would be to take a spare temp sensor of the same type and test THAT one. That will tell you if the CA reports correct temps for what it measures.
LightningRods said:I have the ported Big Block motor cases back from the machine shop. They turned out great. The output side still has a lot of meat left in the cover so it should be strong enough for mounting and power transmission. These ported cases combined with a shaft driven cooling fan should provide a nice power bump.