The first problem with the battery and motor hub

[Smurf2]

Hi. It seems that I have my first real problem with the battery. But I hope that is just connectors...

The battery is stuck and won't go out, even if unlocked!

How it started: One day I charged the battery to about 90% and went to work. After I was returning, the battery on throttle started acting strangely. A voltmeter started fast-changing values, like when I set the throttle, it jumping like 60% to 40% to 20% to 0% (not exactly) and then went up and down continuously. Then stay for a while at 0%. Throttle not working! Then again working normally for a few minutes.
I come home in third PAS gear, easy, somehow it works like that.

I recharged it fully and tomorrow again went to work. It worked normally for about 7 km (how is that possible?), then again started happening. It shows 0%. No throttle. I removed the easy battery on the road to see if it was seating good in connectors, I didn't see anything strange. Return the battery back and I came to work in PAS 3.

There, I had a time to better check connectors, but guess what, battery won't come out anymore!

Is it "stuck" somehow connected to battery failure, like maybe connectors are melted? I hope not.
I think that is just a stuck screw that goes from the battery holder to the bike frame (I found a picture of how it looks inside). Maybe the connector jack moved, or maybe something else.

Ok. First, let's pull the battery out somehow. Don't tell me about the battery lock cylinder (if you call it that), cylinder works fine and locks/unlocks without a problem.

My idea is to remove the 4 zip ties to remove the battery with holder together from frame, and then try to remove it from the inside of the bracket. But then I don't have an idea of how it would go out, because of that screw in the frame.

 

[fechter]

That doesn't look bad at all.
I wouldn't take the white gears off if you don't need to. Grease under them won't do anything. You can slip the edge of a cloth under the gears and get most if it.
Getting the old grease off isn't easy. Avoid using anything that might damage the plastic. I've just used a cloth and wiped the stuff off in the past. Alcohol is usually safe.
Check all the bearings to make sure none of them are rough. Your noise could possibly be a bearing.
Carefully inspect the grooves between the gear teeth for any particles or damage.

 

[Smurf2]

Grease under them won't do anything.

Thanks. That I want to know! I don't have such a tool to remove that mini buckle anyway. I will try to clean beneath the gears as much as I can.

The problem will be finding in my country grease EP2 which is plastic safe. I can't find any.
I only find EP2 for cars, which is not plastic safe.

Edit:
I think it's not bearings because noise will be all the time, but my noise is just on acceleration.

Can you check, please, if this grease is good for nylon motor gears? I don't see that it is for nylon gears?
Or please find me another in such a .de site. I am in EU and if someone has that grease, that is DE! LoL

Generisch Fahrrad Fett Synthetisches Lagerfett für Nabe Tretlager Steuerkopf E-Bike Motor Getriebe Weiß 20-30g(20g) : Amazon.de: Baumarkt

Amazon.de: Küchen- und Haushaltsartikel online - Generisch Fahrrad Fett Synthetisches Lagerfett für Nabe Tretlager Steuerkopf E-Bike Motor Getriebe Weiß 20-30g(20g). Generisch Fahrrad Fett Synthetisches Lagerfett für Nabe Tretlager Steuerkopf E-Bike Motor Getriebe Weiß 20-30g(20g).

www.amazon.de

The best I have at home is this:

LETONIA LR-2 EP 4/1 (litijeva ep mast) ELDON'S

brizine.hr

 

[Smurf2]

For washing, on metal I can't use water because rust?
And nylon gears will not soak water?

Can I wash outer metal tooth with WD40, and nylon gears with destiled water and soap?

 

[Matt Gruber]

AI says
"Petroleum or mineral oil-based lubricants (like standard WD-40 or common petroleum jelly) will break down nylon over time, causing it to swell, crack, or degrade. [1, 2, 3, 4]
I often use gasoline to wash parts
AI says
"Nylon exhibits excellent chemical resistance to petroleum-based products, oils, and gasoline. While gasoline is excellent at breaking down and removing sticky, oil-based grime, it will not melt, degrade, or dissolve the nylon material itself. [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

 

[Smurf2]

@Matt Gruber I used Google and AI. I want hear from you.
I said WD40 "for metal parts", that means on metal housing and metal outside tooth. Not nylon.

For nylon gear I ask can I wash just with water and soap?

 

[Matt Gruber]

@Matt Gruber I used Google and AI. I want hear from you.
I said WD40 "for metal parts", that means on metal housing and metal outside tooth. Not nylon.

For nylon gear I ask can I wash just with water and soap?

Dish detergent works good

 

[fechter]

As long as you dry the surfaces right away, there won't be any rust problem if you use water.
Mobilegrease 28 is the stuff a lot of people have recommended, but I haven't tried it.

 

[Smurf2]

Hi guys. I opened all and cleaned. It looks all fine to me.
By recommendation, I tried with a wooden stick to move the magnets down to see if they move, but I can't remove any.

So, if you don't have any ideas about what to try next, I will start assembling the motor tomorrow ?

I bought Aeroshell Grease 22 (25g/13€) in my local ebike shop. That's the only one I found nearby.

 

[Matt Gruber]

i've seen bearings make strange noises. if it gets worse, change them.

 

[fechter]

You can spin the bearings by hand and make sure none of them are crunchy or have excessive looseness.
Also try spinning the rotor to make sure it's not rubbing on the stator. Sometimes you can get a small piece of magnetic junk stuck in the gap.

 

[Smurf2]

Hi. I tried. Not feeling any bad movement...

I am assembling the motor now. Don't know if this rubber is broken or if it is original, but it is short by about 5 cm, so it seems not usable anymore.

Can I put this "706 Silicone Rubber" around? Then put the cap on and screw it.

 

[fechter]

Yes, you can use that.
Just be sure to not over-apply it so it squishes out inside and touches the rotor. A thin film is all that is needed.

 

[Smurf2]

I think if it drops down on the rotor, it will dry fast, and it will be finished on the housing.

The motor already has some white glue (or whatever it is) on copper wire from the beginning. I try to remove it with my fingers, but unsuccessfully. And better to not touch that because of the risk of broken copper wire.

I am finished! ​

I assembled the motor and bike, and it seems that is the same. Maybe a little better, but it's the same.

So, what caused that? If it is not planetary gears, the controller...
I have a broken spoke on the motor side.

I watch many YT videos with similar sound. Almost all didn't find the problem, and some of them were returned and refound. One had noise because of the "rear rack". He removed the rear rack, and the noise disappeared.




One strange thing is that my motor doesn't have a secure buckle on this metal wheel. It has only a washer. So, you can just hardly push the wheel down. (Wheel goes out without puller, just screws).
But maybe wheel can jump and wiggle when you drive?

 

[offGridDownUnder]

Could the noise be caused by the spoke? it would be periodic.

 

[Smurf2]

Could the noise be caused by the spoke? it would be periodic.

I heard on YT that spokes have a plong-plong sound. I was tape tightly the damaged spoke and test, is the same. It's not spoke.

Although it seems to me that sound came from the middle of the bike frame, where the controller is. But I can't say for sure.

Now, when I know how to open a motor, I can easily change new planetary gears with a clutch. But is it worth waiting?
The question is can a little worn tooths make such a loud noise?

If I buy a new motor, I am affraid, what if the noise still appears? (I read that someone has that problem, but I'm not sure which type of noise he has).

I can stick a little camera to the rear fork and later to the controller position, to see which location will be louder, wrapped with something to remove wind noise.

Phase wires?

Some from Reddit and FB:

 

[offGridDownUnder]

can easily change new planetary gears with a clutch. But is it worth waiting?

Well, process of elimination is a process. Might go on for a while to find a change that makes a difference.

With my approach, I tend to buy spare parts. That also gives me the opportunity to change them out for diagnosis. You'll need to evaluate how worthwhile that approach is for you.

 

[Smurf2]

Well, process of elimination is a process. Might go on for a while to find a change that makes a difference.

With my approach, I tend to buy spare parts. That also gives me the opportunity to change them out for diagnosis. You'll need to evaluate how worthwhile that approach is for you.

I ordered a new whole clutch because many of peoples suggest me that in the group. Maybe is mistake in the metal part which holding 3 gears or gears are little warned out, enough to do vibrations and loud strange noise.
If is not that, I will buy another motor.

The part will come for few days.

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQcrIWQ

 

[Smurf2]

It's working!
After I cleaned and greased the gears. It's not help. So, as recommended, I bought a new nylon gear with a clutch, and the loud noise with vibrations disappeared!

Sometimes I hear just a small amount of that "metal" sound, without vibrations. It is normal, and I had it from the beginning. But loud metal noise and vibrations are disappearing.

Now it is obvious that loud noise and vibrations came from the metal round plate-clutch. Right?

Does anyone see any difference between the old and new teeth (left is old, right is new)??

Also, I will create a new video.

 

[s-petersen]

Maybe the one way clutch inside the plate was slipping, and binding.

 

[Smurf2]

Maybe the one way clutch inside the plate was slipping, and binding.

Yes, it is possible.
I noticed that my one-way clutch doesn't have a buckle to hold and prevent slipping out. Maybe the shaft hole is a little bigger, and it wiggles a bit when sliding on the axle. I try to wiggle with my hand, and it is not moving. But in driving, it have open way to slide out without a buckle?

That metal sound doesn't sound like a nylon gear to me, it has more to do with metal, in this case, the metal part of the clutch.
It is good that I was bought whole complet, and not only nylon gears.

But I am happy the problem is solved.