The SB Cruiser : Amberwolf's 2WD Heavy Cargo Trike & Dog Carrier

[amberwolf]

I got the pics added to the above, finally.

I also got the covers on the controller/hairball area installed, the kennel back on, and added the name to the trike on the rear fenders. I touched up the red on the covers to hide the zipties and white coroplast edges.





I also added actual bike reflectors front and rear, just in case someone would've otherwise decided to hassle me about it (unlikley, but....).




And added two more of those triangle lights on the rear edgs of the cargo deck, so I have lights surrounding the kennel / cargo area, making the trike more obvious and easier to determine size/distance of as peeople approach.




pics with and iwhtouf flash of just the trinagle lights, no other bike lighting.









Got some pics of it with and without flash, while the dogs chewed on a big branch nearby. It's also got the purple light inside the kennel on but you can't really see it well on camera.

 

[docnjoj]

Hmmmmm.............Amberwolf's Green Pet Delivery! Your newest sideline.
otherDoc

 

[amberwolf]

From late October / early November thru early March, I could probably do that.

Rest of the year, would need to build a whole new rearend for it with a fully-insulated kennel, and an air conditioner with a separate battery pack just for that. (and potentially a backup generator for it, as the consequences of it failing in midsummer could be fatal for the animal before I could get somewhere cooler).

 

[amberwolf]

I'm getting pretty good at keeping all the wheels on the ground in turns, even pretty fast (for a delta trike like this). Fast being relative to the Delta Tipper..er, Tripper, and the CB2 temporary trike conversion using 24" wheels on the same "trike kit" that was used on each of these trikes--neither DT nor CB(T)2 were able to turn quicker than just a few MPH without rolling over.

CB(T)2 was actually fairly close to the layout of SBC, but I suspect the 24" wheels used for the rear on CB(T)2 vs the 20" on SBC made a large difference, and the SBC's much lower weight placement in the rear makes much of the rest.


The one thing that really worries me though, is that I can feel what I expect is the rear wheel sideloading in such fast turns--if I have a heavy enough load on there they can't really skid at all and the load could be high enough to collapse them like taco shells. :/ With the high-spoke-count wheels I have on there right now (48? I forget) it's not quite as big a worry, but at some point I will have 36-spoke hubmotor wheels on both rear wheels instead, and that's going to be more susceptible to sideload collapse. (given that I will probably only have narrow rim for at least one of them).

I have one wide rim (from Ypedal, an ex-Zero MC rim) that will get laced to the X5304 that's presently on the front 26" wheel, and go on the right side. That rim probably won't have much of an issue with the sideloading given it's width, and teh spoke angles, even with radial lacing. (I hope). I'm hoping he still has another one; if so I'll buy that if I can, and that will take care of the left wheel, too.



There is another thing I can do that I already discussed earlier in this thread for a slightly different reason, and that's to camber the rear wheels outward at the bottom some, by moving the outer dropout upward a little, and the inner dropout downward a little, on each side. The orignal thought was simply to widen the track a little, for slightly less tippiness in turns, but it would also take a little bit of the sideloading off the wheel (how much, I don't know), and reduce the stress on the rim and spokes in those turns.

It *does* unfortunately *increase* the sideloading of the wheels in all *normal* straight-line riding, though.

I don't know if there is a way for me to find out (other than doing it) if the constant sideloading would be worse than the momentary, given the loads I have carried and will carry in future, and that I will eventually have this weighted/etc in a way that should allow me to make even higher speed turns without flipping over or tipping up off the inside wheel.


Anyway...it's a thought.


I may well try the experiment during my housefire-anniversary vacation next week, just to find out what effects it has on the turns. If I do, I'll do the camber by bolting (or welding) an extra dropout plate just below the existing one, on the inside dropout of each rear wheel. It is a quick way to test without major modifications to the trike.



If I make the mod permanent, I'd make completely new dropouts that are strong enough and thick enough to handle hubmotor torque and regen.

 

[docnjoj]

My wife's Sun USX trike has negative camber on the rear wheels and it really does make it much more stable than the vertical wheeled Sun trike recumbent. We were able to try them both before purchase about 3 years ago. It has 2 separate axles and only one is driven by the chain and gears. Works fine on a front motor.
otherDoc

 

[amberwolf]

Pedal chain...that's what I forgot about. :/

I'll have to figure out a reliable way to "twist" the chain over the short few inches from the output axleshaft of the trike section to the freewheel on the hub itself.

It's possible it won't need anything to make it work...but it probably will.

I can probably make guides to hold it onto the sprocket teeth, wrapped rigth around the entry and exit of the sprocket on each one, but that is extra friction and noise.

I have a car's steering wheel shaft with u-joint, and that could be used in place of the oriiginal trike axleshaft, or part of it. But I'd rather not get into that sort of rework of the chassis if I don't have to.

 

[amberwolf]

Been pondering the whole cambered-wheel setup and there just isn't any easy way to do it and still have pedal chain or brakes on it. Both require more thought to work out a wya tod o them.

I m,ay still try the test itself next week, but it can't be permanent till I've worked out the rest of it.




Also some thoughts about trailers, cabs, kennels, noise, heat, etc., from a message I wrote to someone else:










I'm hoping next week to add the trailer hitch and find a second kennel like the one I have (without buying one new, which is over $100 these days).

Then I can have one on the trike and one in the trailer.

I have a wire cage style one, but it's not suitable for transporting; it rattles, it wobbles, it is too large to fit between tires, it needs a solid bottom made, a shaded top added, etc. I could fix all those things but it'd be just about easier to build a "solid" version like on the trike, out of plastic panels, tubing, and coroplast, on the trailer's frame.



If it were practical to do it in the heat we have here, and I didn't need the ability to see all around me in traffic, I'd really like to build a completely enclosed trike so they could both ride inside the "cab" with me.

But I have not figured out any way to keep it cool enough in the cab without either making it unsecure for the dogs, or adding power requirements enogh to have to have a battery just for the cooling system.

Any unpowered venting I add will only work at or above some speed, and mostly the cooling is needed at lower speeds or when stopped.

Any powered venting I add makes it loud inside teh cab, even louder than ti would be already just from road rumble (which would be pretty bad).

Insulation to help negate the rumble would also help keep heat out a little, but would either greatly increase the volume if I use lightwieght stuff (styrofoam) or the weight if I use dense materials.

I've been looking at insulation options for noise and heat for the kennel itself, and haven't worked out much yet. Anything that stiffens up the kennel itself helps reduce it's boominess, which is what Tiny really doesn't like (Yogi either but he's more adaptable), so looking at "bolting" styrofoam sheets to it on the outside, with glue of some type (expanding foam?) to secure it over it's whole surface. I'd do it on the inside but there's hardly enough volume for a dog as it is.

 

[amberwolf]

First grocery run with SBC today, filled up two of those white styrofoam coolers inside the kennel, plus some other stuff that doesnt' need cooling tucked around them.

Am presently at BK for their wifi, cuz the wifi at Fry's wouldn't let me connect to ES, and my neighbor's internet (centurylink) has been down all day, with no resolution from his ISP yet. It went out for a while a couple days ago too, but came back on it's own. His wifi and network are working, just no ISP connection (it keeps retrying to connect but then failing in the process).

Was gonna go to McD's for theirs, but there's something going on over there with lots of people standing around the building milling around (maybe a hundred or more), so BK was the next closest that I know works with this old laptop (what's left of it...I keep breaking things).

Anyway, the SBC is developing some issues. Tires especially on the rear are gonna wear out quick at this rate, cuz higher speed turns cause a lot of scrub on them, dragging htem around the corner sideways. I've already worn completely thru that thin BMX tire that I layered over the old Kenda flame tire, to replace the Hookworm that has sidewall issues, and it hasn't even been on there a week yet!


There's a noise and feel from the motor system that sounds as if a hall is sometimes missing just occasionally. It may happen at any time, under any load conditions or speed. Started yesterday, no worse today. Shouldn't be a connection problem cuz there's no connectors--it's all soldered. But could be a wire breaking inside insulation, or problem inside the hub itself.


There's a sound from the left wheel area that only happens when rolling forward, whether I'm on it or not, bu tonly with wheel on-ground so it probably isn't the freewheel pawls (which was my first thought), so I gotta see how to figure out exactly what's causing it.


Thankfully I'm on th efirst of 7 days of vacation, so I don't *have* to go anywhere with SBC, and I have CB2 as well (though I haven't ridden it all of this month, trying to bring out any bugs in SBC and get used to it's quirks).

I may start taking stuff apart tonite to work on it, when I get home, if I'm not totally wiped out (been doing stuff around hte house all day before this).

 

[amberwolf]

All I got to today was playing with teh controller in this thread
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=68501&p=1037368#p1037368
which got me electronic braking, though I hesitate to call it regen. It heats the controller and phase wires so much it's progably more like plug braking, and it only gets a peak of around 1.6A back to the battery, even when using the RC Lipo ammocan pack that's only half charged.

I tried that pack in hopes of getting 40A out of it again, beause of osmethign found in teh controller thread about how this MCU is supposed to rollback current if the pack is getting low, and I don't konw the actual LVC/etc for this controller (not yet tested). But no luck on that--33A peak draw was it, regardless of 3speed switch setting (or method...I found a way to toggle between modes instead and used that to no change).


Didnt hear the noise from the left wheel during testing, but didn't ride around more than just the local block a couple times.

Forgot to say that also I tried to see about fitting the A123 pack into a slimmer but longer case (used to be for poker chips, foudn at goodwill), but it's halves are just millimeters too thick to fit in the case. Sucks cuz the case would've fit between the kennel and the back of the frame under teh seat, or under the whole cargo rack along hte axle, and I could've fit the other littel samsonite case as a cargo pod on the right side (would be handy for my lunch and stuff for work, instead of having to stick it in the kennel ro tie it to the top of the rack, etc).


I might be able to fit it in there anyway, but I'd have to take the outer rubber shrink off the half of the pack that stll has it, and even then it might still not quite fit without doing something to modify the slim case.


No pics yet cuz now I can't get the camera or card reader to be detected by the laptop.

 

[amberwolf]

ISP issues on the borrowed wifi, so can only connect a few seconds at a time most of the time now. Gonna try to upload pics and attach them to this post.

Some of the LEDs to show what speed the controller is set to and the status/power led.

Some of the tire's ripped-open tread area showing the kenda flame tire underneath the bmx tire. might be able to see how "lumpy" it is because of the holes letting the kedna expand more in those areas.

one of the brake levers, arms, and reinforcement U brace sent by Wayne, whcih will go on one of the wheels at some point (probably the arms on the front and move the front to one rear, using one lever to control both rears via cable splitter or something, and the other lever for the front. Maybe use separat erear levers; dunno yet.



Some of the A123 pack trying to fit in the old pokerchips case, vs the ammocan, and then how the case would've fit behind the seat. amd tej space under .


also the move of teh downligthing strip from under the frame at the BB to above it, on the "toptube" instead, so that I don't have to worry about destroying it when "jacking up" the front wheel offground (on a curb, with a bucket, a rock, whatever's handy, till I build in jacks to the frame or make one).

 

[DAND214]

Those tires look like you've been power drifting.

It still looks great. I'm sure you'll get it all done up right soon.

Dan

 

[waynebergman]

Wow that tire ware is crazy. Not sure how many miles you have on those rear tires but that is going to be an issue. This might be a dumb idea but I wonder about hacking on some golf cart wheels. Not sure how a golf cart is actually made in regards to rear axle etc but do you think some old parts off of an old golf cart would be worth concidering. I would think the tires would last a long time, the center of gravity could be made lower etc. It would mean of course if you go with dual motors again you are talking mid drive but you will have the nice torque off the line. I would think you could cushion the ride some what with the low tire pressures you could run on such a hack.

Looking good AW, all the best.

 

[amberwolf]

Those tires look like you've been power drifting.

It still looks great. I'm sure you'll get it all done up right soon.

Thanks!

"power drifting" probably describes the turns pretty well--as mentioned previously, there's scrubbing in the turns as the aback end drags/slides around the turns unless I slow way down (better than tipping over!). Slowing down could be hazardous with some traffic behind me, because I'd have to slow down to like 5MPH, maybe 8, to keep that from happening on some corners becuase of the condition of the asphalt lets it slide easier sometimes, but it sands away at the tires when it does that.

The hazards are because of the really slow speed, and the impatience of drivers. Why they don't act this way whne I ride CrazyBike2 I dunno, but CB2 can also turn at 17-18MPH without having to lean quite far enough to drag the cargo pods into the asphalt too often. (could do it at full speed without them, most likely). But on this thing, I might as well be on a regular bicycle pedalling around, for the "respect" it gets. :/

Surprising since it's larger than CB2 by a lot, viewed from the rear...but SBC doesn't look like anything they've seen before, while CB2 resembles a motorcycle with saddlebag/boxes (common around here).

Wow that tire ware is crazy. Not sure how many miles you have on those rear tires but that is going to be an issue. This might be a dumb idea but I wonder about hacking on some golf cart wheels. Not sure how a golf cart is actually made in regards to rear axle etc but do you think some old parts off of an old golf cart would be worth concidering. I would think the tires would last a long time, the center of gravity could be made lower etc. It would mean of course if you go with dual motors again you are talking mid drive but you will have the nice torque off the line. I would think you could cushion the ride some what with the low tire pressures you could run on such a hack.

Looking good AW, all the best.

Thanks!

If I were to use different wheels/tires, I'd actually just want to go with moped/MC ones; I'm sure they'd be up to the task well enough, and they'd still work with hubmotors.

If I had any access to golfcart stuff to play wiht, I could experiment with shortening the axles on a differential/transaxle from one, so they'd fit in the space I have on this trike (keep it fitting thru a front doorway). Not sure if the wheels would fit in my fender frames, so might have to cut those off and redo them for that. But presently I don't have any GC stuff, and in all the looking around I've done over the last few years havent' foudn any I could get cheap enough. (wanted to use this kind of thing to add power assist to a wide trailer)


Ideally I'd like to use a middrive to drive both rear wheels, but I've never found a really realy cheap or free transaxle that would do it except for the one on the melted powerchair remains I kept after the fire. I have that taken off the powerchair, and started to take it's non-working motor off of it but never got very far (stuff was stuck so I keep retreating it with PB blaster and hoping it'll unstick eventually, so I don't have to break anything to get it to where I might be able to use it).

It isn't wide enough, so I'd need to extend the axles out from it to drive the wheels (via chain, most likely), and I'm not sure how best to do that with stuff I've got here. Probably would only extend *one* axle, and uuse the other direct, to reduce work I have to do for it. Then use a powerchair wheel stub bolted to the unmodded axle end to hold sprocket(s) to drive the wheel on that side. Make something similar for the other modded end.


As for the tire wear, I think I put about 15 miles on them, maybe less, before those pics. I forget exactly. No idea how many miles they had before I got them off the BMX bike from goodwill.

Got another set of the same kind on another BMX bike given to me, with almost no wear, but I don't think they'll last any longer than the worn ones did. they're jsut not good tires, really thin.

Not gonna go spend money on bicycle tires for this application; I'd rather buy some Shinko or Pirelli tires.

Catch at the moment is that I only have one rim wide enough to put them on. Ypedal still has some more but shipping is exorbitant so gotta wait and see when the money situation gets better again before I buy them. I already bought spokes (on the way from Grin soon) to lace the x5304 into the rim I have. (the other rim like it is on CB2 with the HSR3548).

Also bought spokes from Grin for putting one of hte 9C types into some 20" rim (whatever I have, all skinny) too, so I can try out dual rear wheel drive instead of front wheel; it ought to have a lot more torque than the single 26" front, even with the controllers I presently have (one 25A and one 33A), and be able to startup from a stop quicker than now (it would be tough to get *slower* ).



Tiny's been sick with a cough (and pukey because of that; she's always a pukey dog but right now she re-eats stuff a dozen times or more before it stays down, over several hours ) so I haven't gotten as much done as I planned, just wanting to stay wherever she is at to keep an eye on her. Right now we're outside in the breezy shade, but it's warm enough now (82-83F?) that she is probably gonna go inside soon.

The wifi is only working to an unsecured one nearby if I move the antenna (and thus the laptop; USB won't go that far) most of the way toward the alley fence near the street side, under the middle-of-the-yard mulberry tree (where the lemon tree used to be). (neighbor's wifi works but the ISP hasn't connected at all today.) So when she goes inside, I'll just come back out and check emails and such when she's napping again.

(I left email and text for the rescue to see about a vet visit for her, earlier this morning, but havne't heard back yet).



Anyway...so I haven't gotten to testing out any of the old motors or retesting/troubleshooting any of the bigger controllers.

 

[amberwolf]

Setup a "test bench" to play with the controllers and motors wihtout messing with the trike itself:



Using an old junk bike's rear dropouts to hold (no nuts) a front 9C 26" I put back together after I found all the parts in the sheds, and dug out some cover bolts to hold it together (the originals are long gone). The motor works fine, though it has a low-speed squeal in the non-wire-side axle bearing cuz I accidentally hit the seal when pushing the bearings onto the axle. I think this is actually the very first hubmotor I ever got, used from Lyen?

First I tested a little Crystalyte 20A 36-48V Immediate Start controller (6fet? odd housing) that I ran across while looking for the motor parts. I think this came from BikeFanatic in a "care package" of such stuff. Has a note on it that it works, but all connectors except brake and throttle JSTs are cut off. Has TWO sets of phase wires...and a toggle switch mounted on one end that switches between them. Not sure why that is...cuz only one set of halls, and it doesn't work sensorless. Wired it up straight color to color to the 9C, and it worked but had high current. So I swapped green and blue on hall and phase, and it works normally then.


Next up I decided to open up the black 12FET that I don't remember the source of--I'd said I wouldn't open it till I had the trike working for sure with another one, and now I do, plus there's the Crystalyte above if I have to.


It's an XM8C06 based unit, with 12x 60NF70 FETs and 63V caps, and has many of the same letters on pads as the C-SMD1.2 15FET that's now on the trike, which I figured out with Whatever's help what many of them are.



View attachment 2



I started checking pads on this one, and found that they do what Whatever's controller does, rather than what the C-SMD1.2 does. So listed below are what I found for this in case anyone ever runs across one:

A3 ?(grounding shuts off controller, grounds logic?)
E1 external red power led
E2 external green status LED.

K1 3speed switch high speed
K2 3speed switch low speed
DC Was tied to XS with a cut white wire
XX no effect
PV 4.3V (grounding shuts off controller, grounds logic?)
Q (cruise)

DS 5v ?brake cutoff output? (not regen) goes to 0.54v when sl=gnd When tied to X, causes regen/wheel lock during braking
X regen

SL Ebrake cutoff (active low)
SH ?no effect?

H+ Hall power
U U hall input
V V hall input
W W hall input
GND

+4.3V Throttle power
SD Throttle input
GND Throttle Ground
XS ?? waas tied to DC with a cut white wire (slows motor by lowering throtle voltage if grounded

S+ these three are tied into phase outputs somehow, have waveform on them
S-
DP

5V
ZL 5v on pad, grounding has no effect
GND


external status led (and LED pad) Blink codes:
hearbeat 1.5hz = normal
no blink = motor running

 

[amberwolf]

Didn't have time to psot the rest of the results cuz the rescue showed up for Tiny's vet appointment, and that took more than 3 hours cuz of travel time and the really long waits for things at the vet, so didn't get back to anything else last night. Today been working out new strategies for feeding Tiny and getting water to both dogs, without leaving bowls out...so not much else today either.

But I did get to test out the Methods' 18FET that had simply stopped working...and it doesnt' work with this 9C motor either. Absolutely no output at any FET. I didn't get much chance to check anything else on it, but when I measure the phase FETs for ohms, I get about 10Kohm both ways for the first one on the left, then the other two are in the 3-7Megohm range. (from both batt + / batt - to S / D) Gates not yet tested, gotta setup the oscope first, and re-setup the test bench.

The promised rain didn't show up last night, but thankfully I did move stuff inside off the table out here before trying to sleep for the night, cuz it did rain pretty good this morning, off and on before dawn thru around 10am-ish. Last sprinkles stopped around an hour ago, an dnow it's sunny with clouds around here and there. About 70F in the shade but feels more like 80 from the humidity. Is around 95F in the direct sun.


Anyway, I'll see if I can troubleshoot that 18FET in the kitchen where I have bright enough light to see and a table to work on, rather than setup outside where it *could* rain again (is expected to tonight) and I'd have to drag everything inside again anyway. Plus, Tiny and Yogi are both inside for some reason, instead of hanging out out here with me since it's nice out here with wet ground that htey both love.

 

[amberwolf]

No luck on the 18FET. No waveforms anywhere on gate drives; maybe the MCU is damaged? Wierd...it worked perfectly before with the same motor, with no intervening anything other than sitting there. I guess even if I fix it I wouldn't trust it anymore.

Still got the other 18FET with the cutoff power wires to check out, and a littel 6FET that I'd started to check yesterday but was interrupted before I got any farther than a wrong phase/hall combo for a first try, and just a stuttering motor for one burp and then nothing, for each throttle attempt.


Well, at least now I have two backup controllers. Also, I'm thinking about taking that switch out of the little Crystalyte 20A controller, and putting it on the motor's phase wires for the frotn motor, the x5304, setup so I can switch it between two different controllers in case of failure of one or the other. At least, until I get the spokes to lace up the 9C that's shown working to a 20" rim instead (well, actualy will use a magnet ring I already have separate from a rim), an dmove the stator an dcovers over to that), and then install that on the right rear with i'ts own controller and throttle, but sharing ebrake handles between them like CB2 does.

then i'll have redundancy for both motor and controller, PLUS extra takeoff power to actually get moving before the light turns red again (there are some very short lights that I can't even get but barely past the crosswalk on the starting side of the intersection, if I'm the first in line waiting there at a stop for the red light, from the time it turns green to the time it turns red again).

 

[amberwolf]

Evoforce came by yesterday evening, and we had fun chatting, rambling, and eventually riding around the neighborhood. I'd thought about a longer ride but it had been threatening to rain all day, and didnt' want us stuck too far from home should it start and then something on the trike fail...cuz that's what he was riding and it hasn't been rain-tested yet.

A problem did surface on the trike, where one of the WuXing brake lever switches self-engaged and would not release. I don't know which one yet, but probably the rightside (front brake). That handle's getting replaced by one of the Avid ones sent by Waynebergman anyway, so it doesnt' really matter.

To fix it temporarily I just cut (pulled actually) the wire connecting the handles to the harness going down the tiller tube, so we could keep riding without him being stuck pedalling the thing home, whcih probably wouldn't have been possible.

I probably could've towed him home with CrazyBike2, but I've never tried to tow anything like that without using the trailer hitch on it so far. I'd probably have had to cargo-strap the front wheel onto the back end of CB2 in a way that let the trike's headtube be it's pivot point; no idea how well that congolmeration would steer given the pretty slack headtube angle.

Might also have been able to stick the front wheel of CB2 inside the kennel, strapping it onto the trike, then using CB2's rear wheel to push everything along, an dhave Evoforce do the steering whiel I did the throttle.


But we dind't have to, and those scenarios above only came to me while typing this up.


Other than that, he seemed to really like the trike and it's handling, though he wasn't pushing it's limits like I do. I told him he could, and not worry about breaking anything cuz I can fix it and at least I'd know the limits of something on it :lol: but he still didn't seem inclined to do so.



Eventually my hands got numb, after almost 6 miles of riding around the area, and we had to go back to the house. Ended up being pretty close to just in time, as not long after that the already gusty winds got worse (sometimes it was taking CB2 700W+ just to maintain 17MPH!) sprinkles started off and on, though not even enough to wet the sidewalks.


End of the get-together finally arrived, though I hadn't realized *how* late it was, and Evoforce offered me a ride to the grocery store (partly so I could take a ride in his Leaf EV, which is really nice!). That was right when it really started to drizzle, maybe just heavy sprinkling. Somewhere on the way to the store it began to acutally rain, though.

We got to the store, and it was a few minutes after they'd closed...somehow I'd lost a whole hour or so, cuz I thought it was just after 10pm, when actualy it was after 11pm. that meant I'd missed Tiny's meds time by about an hour, but we were already out so we went up a little farther and got to the one still open...where I found I had misplaced my bank card and didn't have enough cash on me to buy the things I'd selected (and had to pick just a few). I've not done that in a long time, cuz I always check to make sure I have it before I go anywhere. Forgot to this time.

He offered to take me back up there after I would find the card at home (if it was there; I didn't know), but I declined cuz it was too late to get back there after getting home and looking for it, assuming I even found it. So he just dropped me back off, and went home himself. I did find the card, somehow it was in the trashcan in the bedroom (which is sort of kinda near where I set my belt pouch, but not really, so I dunno how it'd get in there, especially since it should've been in my wallet inside teh pouch).

More stuff unrelated to the trike in the housefire thread for today.

 

[BikeFanatic]

Amberwolf that controller with the toggle was one of the original CLyte controllers from 2003- with the toggle switch for the 2 speed 406/409 Hub motor had.
What a blast from the past! I reconized my writing on it, I think it is ok to test but that controller is likely too weak for your new bike. I have some extra controllers here that i have no use for if you are interested. I have 2 Hua tong 7 2 volt 40 amp controller that I dont use as they are too powerful for me, and A 35 AMP Ebikes . ca 48 volt amp controller ALL COME WITH HALLS, and I do not use halls anymore I prefer sensorless, Pm me if you need a controller. i am doing spring cleaning and lately i need less amps and less volts.

 

[amberwolf]

Amberwolf that controller with the toggle was one of the original CLyte controllers from 2003- with the toggle switch for the 2 speed 406/409 Hub motor had.

Ah--that makes a lot more sense than anything else I thought of.

What a blast from the past! I reconized my writing on it, I think it is ok to test but that controller is likely too weak for your new bike.

Oh, I'm sure it's not powerful enough for what I *want* the trike to do, but it'd be enough to limp home with should the primary controller fail, while I have only one motor on there.

Pretty sure I won't cook the motor itself (x5304), with any controller I'm likely to have.

That's why I'm considering rewiring that switch so the motor is at the common, and the controllers are at the switched sides. Then just parallel wire all the hall wires except 5V, and just use the 5V from one or the other. Maybe have a little switch for that.

I have some extra controllers here that i have no use for if you are interested. I have 2 Hua tong 7 2 volt 40 amp controller that I dont use as they are too powerful for me, and A 35 AMP Ebikes . ca 48 volt amp controller ALL COME WITH HALLS, and I do not use halls anymore I prefer sensorless, Pm me if you need a controller. i am doing spring cleaning and lately i need less amps and less volts.

Given my luck so far with the larger ones I've been trying to revive, I should take you up on that. :/ So, PM sent.

 

[amberwolf]

I'm too exhausted to detail it all, but these two have enough to get across. also it's hare td to type with Tiny in my lap, hodling her upright afer food and water,. while i tryp to type as she resiss being held.

http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=49550&p=1040529#p1040529
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=68997&p=1040532#p1040532

tiny's gonna be going to work with me on the trike, and we'll ahve to figure out hwere to park it inside the store where she'll be ok cuz shell be inside it.


also, the spokes from grin showed up as i was bout to feed tiny more, but the box is a wee bit bigger and heavier than one for just spokes...and i'm dying to see what's in it, but i just don't have time yet, even if i had energy. so this pic will have to be enugh for now.

 

[docnjoj]

I love surprises!
otherDoc

 

[amberwolf]

I still haven't been able to do anything with this, but I did get to open the box on my birthday a couple days ago, as Tiny, Yogi, and I passed by it on the way back to the bedroom from a yard adventure. I had considered opening it several times, but it wasnt' until Tiny became interested in trying to smell it that I actually stopped to do it:



There are a few things in there besides the spokes I ordered, which should be interesting to try out. There's a couple of shunts, which I can use (just have to fix my other CA to go along with them!), one each of the molded LED headlight and taillights (with epoxy defects, from the bargain bin), a computer that Justin had discussed sending so I could use it for ES moderation/etc since the ones I have already are problematic for that in some ways and times, an unknown-state FOC controller unit, and...a Satiator, which AFAICT is new in box. (and which Tiny was super-interested in smelling, so much so she was trying to climb out of her wheelchair when I opened it's box)
View attachment 3
There's no notes on anything except "Amberwolf's computer" on the computer case, and the mm lengths on the two spoke bags (and former prices and defects on the lights), so they are definitely project pieces for when I have time to figure them out...which is not now, with Tiny's situation.


The computer I may try setting up tonight; I have a switchbox to parallel it with the laptop so I can use both right here (though I'll have to manually move the cable for the USB wifi stick back and forth, unless I can use the desktop PC as a gateway for the laptop via their ethernet...I know the laptop won't do that cuz something in it's networking is broken, but never figured out what).

 

[amberwolf]

This norming wnile feeidng tiny brteakfast, during the many little pauses beetwen tidbits, i found time to unlace an old 20" wheel off one of those jogging strollers, and use it's rim to lace onto a 9C-type rotor. I should have time in the next few days to get it tensioned and trued, tube and tire on it, and get it mounted on the trike's right rear wheel spot.

Then I can put a cntroller on it, probably the black 12fet, and a throttle up on the bars. Then i can see how well it fixes up the starup power/torque problem.

fi ti works i can stick it's freewheel holder on and put it on hte left side where pedals can still drive the wheel, and then relace the X5304 into a 20" rim and put it on the right side, with a normal wheel up front at least for now. probably with disc brakes on ti in additon to the rim brakes, az i think the fork has both mounts.

 

[dogman dan]

Ooo, wish I could order spokes, and get a satiator tossed in. But what you do for ES is so much more than I do. Way to go Justin!

 

[amberwolf]

As I understand it, the Satiator was paid for by an anonymous donation. Wish I knew who so I could thank them properly.


Yesterday I brought the two lights to work with me, and at lunchtime, after Tiny had a walkies to pee (a lot) and some ice cubes, she wanted to just laydown in the kennel on the trailer, so I hooked up the front clamp-on white light to the sware tube the headlight s mounte d on, so it 'is abcve the headlight. Was gonna use the fork stanchion but its too big for the clamp.

Wired iit to the back of the headlihgt cuz that was easy access to 16v. works fine, is too bright to look directly at even from several feet away. but doens't make much of a spot compared to teh headlight.

I didn't have time to wire in the taillight, but I got it ziptied to the frame next to the regular tailight up top. I had already checked that it works, and if the red wire is on +V, black on gnd, it lights up. if green is then grounded, it flashes. So the plan is to wire it up to the taillight power, and set up the green to be grounded by the brake line.

I forget how i have the reguilar taillight wired right now but it's probalby ground to it's -, then a series of diodes from +v to it's + so it's dimmer in normal operation, then +v trhu the brake swithc to it's +. So i'll need to rewire that so the ground is switched instead.