Tonaro User group
- Thread starter rroland
- Start date
rroland
100 mW
Bash as Hard as you can !
Make sure you Removed the Cir Clip and Have the retaining Bolt in the Thread so you don't Stuffit up
Make sure you Removed the Cir Clip and Have the retaining Bolt in the Thread so you don't Stuffit up
I wonder why these one-way sprag bearings/freewheels break?
Is is perhaps because we put more battery power through them and then add our own power, particularly when we move away from an almost stopped position? Too much sudden torque and the weakest thing goes - at the point where the metal is thinnest? CATIC I think put in 2 keyways to spread the load in later models but mine is the older version ( V1) with one - the metal is thin at the keyway where it fractured. I thought mine broke because the pedal hit a rock as I was throttling hard (it shouldn't have created increased force at that point I now think) from a stop but maybe it was that I was also adding too much leg work at a very slow speed?
Maybe it's a safety thing as at least the part that goes can be replaced OK. If we fit a tougher one-way sprag something else will fail?
Watch the sudden application of power in an up-powered bike...
Is is perhaps because we put more battery power through them and then add our own power, particularly when we move away from an almost stopped position? Too much sudden torque and the weakest thing goes - at the point where the metal is thinnest? CATIC I think put in 2 keyways to spread the load in later models but mine is the older version ( V1) with one - the metal is thin at the keyway where it fractured. I thought mine broke because the pedal hit a rock as I was throttling hard (it shouldn't have created increased force at that point I now think) from a stop but maybe it was that I was also adding too much leg work at a very slow speed?
Maybe it's a safety thing as at least the part that goes can be replaced OK. If we fit a tougher one-way sprag something else will fail?
Watch the sudden application of power in an up-powered bike...
chris...
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2012
- Messages
- 30
the cir clip does not need to be removed, the lot comes off in one unit
i used long bolts to drive it off
when i bashed the shit out of it to get it back on the inner bearing moved a bit outwards. The c clip needed to be inserted in before installing
i used long bolts to drive it off
when i bashed the shit out of it to get it back on the inner bearing moved a bit outwards. The c clip needed to be inserted in before installing
Chris there should be a circlip which snaps into a small groove milled into the circumference of the splined drive shaft. The circlip function is to secure the sprag clutch (alloy chainwheel unit) onto this splined drive shaft. Without this unremarkable, anonymous looking little part, you and your sprag clutch may become forever separate.
chris...
10 mW
- Joined
- Nov 15, 2012
- Messages
- 30
The lot comes off together, it doesn't need to be removed.
It is there to secure it together and should be put in before assembly as bashing the craps out of it to put it back on caused it to move and I can no longer put the clip back in.
So if I must put it in before assembly then there is no need to remove the clip before removing the entire unit.
On mine its not spliced, it has a keyway
It is there to secure it together and should be put in before assembly as bashing the craps out of it to put it back on caused it to move and I can no longer put the clip back in.
So if I must put it in before assembly then there is no need to remove the clip before removing the entire unit.
On mine its not spliced, it has a keyway
Ahoog
100 mW
rogerax said:
If you happen to be in Gävle, check with Posacyckel, I bought one there last week.
It should be 110 mm, same as BMX and the new racing standard.
If you have the same as me it's a pain in the a** to change it though.
Get a gear puller and 2 M4x50 bolts before you begin. To get the things back on again you need something to press it with.
The crank arm bolt was to short to get the job done with the piece of tube I had at hand so I thought to go and buy a longer bolt. Doesn't exist.... It's M8x1 on my bike and regular M8 is x1,25 as far as I know. I even went to a specialist who said "this is Chinese, right?" But he didn't have any.
I ended up bashing it back on with a club. Not all the way as it turned out so now I have to take it apart again...
Ahoog
100 mW
I changed the chain wheel to a 50t this weekend. Since the cassette was worn I took the opportunity to change that to a 9 gear at the same time. It fits on the same body as the 8 gear cassette since its the same width.
However there are some issues where the biggest one is that the chain tends to jump of the chain wheel on the three lowest gears.
The cassette is 11-32, same as original
I can see why it happens, the angle between the chain wheel and the cassette is to big.
Has anyone else had the same? And found a cure?
/Anders
However there are some issues where the biggest one is that the chain tends to jump of the chain wheel on the three lowest gears.
The cassette is 11-32, same as original
I can see why it happens, the angle between the chain wheel and the cassette is to big.
Has anyone else had the same? And found a cure?
/Anders
rroland
100 mW
Ahoog
100 mW
rroland said:
Well rroland, if I had the version you have it would have been a different story
And how I wish they had made sure that the reducer would have been centered on the bike...
Ahoog
100 mW
rogerax said:
I don't have a part number but they should know what you're talking about if you say 110 mm at the bike store
Ahoog
100 mW
Ahoog said:
It was the chain... It seems a professional bike shop can sort out stuff like this
And finally I could get rid of that horrible grip shift and get a real shifter.
georgefromvt
1 kW
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 352
I bought my RMartin (Tonaro) bike two years ago. Runs great, still torque and quiet despite 2000 miles. I want to upgrade to a 48 volt battery but looking for something basically plug and play. I found a company in France that sells the Tonaro with a 48 volt version. Is there anyone in the USA that sells the 48 volt battery, looks compatible with the same battery holder. Thanks
http://www.electrics-bike.com/fr/pieces-detachees/26-kit-48v-11-a-h.html
http://www.electrics-bike.com/fr/pieces-detachees/26-kit-48v-11-a-h.html
Hi George, if you measure the compartment you can then buy an appropriately sized 48v battery in the US, or try BMS Battery in China. You may wish to get something more than 10AH as that will only get you 20miles or so. The stock controller has 50v capacitors I think, so it may or may not handle 48v, try it and see (it's fine at 44v). If it blows then most standard b/less controllers would replace it, but again size is the issue if you want to keep it steamlined. You may also lose the handlebar switches and meter if you swap controllers.
Hey Acho, there are several devices on the Tonaro which rely on the hall effect like the brakes and the speed sensor on the back wheel. The motor also has Hall sensors which tell the controller the position of the rotor and make it run smoother. I havn't tried the tonaro without the hall sensors wired up but many motors do run ok without them. If you are looking for another controller best get one with sensors. And best get one rated for a higher current and preferably variable voltage.
georgefromvt
1 kW
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 352
My three year old Tonaro bike with over 2300 miles still running well but curious how long will the battery last? I'm thinking of ordering a 48 volt replacement battery from China. The price is OK but the shipping is $78 from China. Shipping price very low in my opinion, am I missing something?
http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/496-48v-10ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html
View attachment 1
http://www.bmsbattery.com/48v/496-48v-10ah-lithium-ion-electric-bicycle-battery-pack.html
View attachment 1
georgefromvt
1 kW
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 352
Not sure it will fit the battery compartment, still in the early stages of battery selection. The shipping price just seems too good to be true. Regarding the controller, haven't decided which controller. Will keep you posted. I might just buy another bike.acho said:
rroland
100 mW
Well this is my next move to upgrade the battery pack.
I was thinking that getting 4 x Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 20C Lipo Pack
From Hobby King.
Minimum Capacity: 5000mAh
Configuration: 6S1P / 22.2v / 6Cell
Constant Discharge: 20C
Peak Discharge (10sec): 30C
Pack Weight: 793g
Pack Size: 152 x 50 x 51mm
That would 2 in series and then those in parallel Giving me 44volts at 10amps
Price about $70 ea + Freight so that’s $280 +
Charging would be done by individual packs using a iMAX Quattro B6 4 bay balanced charger
Monitoring every cell. But this would mean disassembling the battery box to charge.
I was thinking that getting 4 x Turnigy 5000mAh 6S 20C Lipo Pack
From Hobby King.
Minimum Capacity: 5000mAh
Configuration: 6S1P / 22.2v / 6Cell
Constant Discharge: 20C
Peak Discharge (10sec): 30C
Pack Weight: 793g
Pack Size: 152 x 50 x 51mm
That would 2 in series and then those in parallel Giving me 44volts at 10amps
Price about $70 ea + Freight so that’s $280 +
Charging would be done by individual packs using a iMAX Quattro B6 4 bay balanced charger
Monitoring every cell. But this would mean disassembling the battery box to charge.
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