stevecahill said:The old one is not going to fit. Going to get a new one for the Suntour.
Then you'll want a whole new headset, becuase I doubt the bearings you have could fit a larger race properly.stevecahill said:My intention is to put a new raceway in the bottom of the new Suntour where is does flare out and is larger than the Townies.
amberwolf said:Then you'll want a whole new headset, becuase I doubt the bearings you have could fit a larger race properly.
This requires removing the cups from the Townie frame and installing the new ones that come with the new headset (which also comes with all the bearings and races, and for threaded should include a new race-nut for the top threaded portion). I can recommend FSA as a brand that's worked well for me.
That is some great range! Do you know what type of cells are used in your battery? You may already know all this, but definitely don't want to go any lower than the 25 volts that you already are. With the specs of most cells, you should be able to charge your pack up to a max of 42 volts, and that will significantly increase your range when you need it. The everyday charge of 40 volts though will help you get as many cycles as you can long term from the pack.stevecahill said:The weight of the bike with the new additions is 85 lbs. I do have 18650's with a 10s 10p configuration. I get around 70 miles with pedal assist until range anxiety sets in. I usually charge up to 40 volts and the BMS is set to shutdown at 25 volts. So 60 miles is a good point of reference. I do not use the throttle.
thundercamel said:Was the brake rotor cleaned with degreaser or brake cleaner when it was installed? From my experience with cars, once the brake pads bed onto the rotor, it will provide more stopping power.
Thanks for the response! I only clean the braking surface rotors/drums once when I first install them, to get the oil off from rust prevention during shipping. The alcohol should have done the job just fine.stevecahill said:I used isopropyl alcohol to clean the rotor 2x with rubber gloves, did not even think to use the Brakeleen I had after doing a auto brake job. I will reclean the rotor again with Brakeleen. Is this something you do every so often?
(V/cell) Cycles Energy
[4.30] [150–250] [110–115%]
4.25 200–350 105–110%
4.20 300–500 100%
4.15 400–700 90–95%
4.10 600–1,000 85–90%
4.05 850–1,500 80–85%
4.00 1,200–2,000 70–75%
3.90 2,400–4,000 60–65%
3.80 See note 35–40%
3.70 See note 30% and less
he hierarchy from low to high would be XCT, XCM, XCR. V2, V3 has to do with the 'version'. higher number is newer generation.
Forks specified by different bicycle brands can be configured in a number of different ways, so its hard for me to understand exactly what you are looking at, that being said;
Our XCM and XCR models come with 30mm stanchions. ( the upper tubes) if you compare this to other forks in the price range, many of our competitors will often use 28mm stanchions. Larger diameter = improved stiffness and strength. Also, the pitch, or width of these two forks is 130mm. You will find that to be a bit wider than many of our competitors. Generally speaking, wider is better.
Second, our XCM and XCR models are what we call QSP, or quick service products. That means if your fork's internals ever wear out our suffer a problem, the fork can be fixed easily by replacing the entire cartridge.
Finally, if you are shopping for a bike that is less than $1,000 I'm sure you have seen that many of those bikes are equipped with SR Suntour forks. The primary reasons for this are based on the fact that the bicycle brands have come to trust SR Suntour to supply them with a reliable product that performs well. (that may seem simple, but its a big deal) Additionally, we operate service centers in North America, Asia and Europe to back up our product.
I hope this helps and good luck in purchasing a new bike. Ride it alot!