TSDZ2 and full suspension ebike

[artyy]

I am about to built TSDZ2 ebike based on F/S Kona Dawg Frame. Please could someone give more details about installation in F/S bike. I mean how to fix the motor in kickstand area? A photo with quick explanation would be perfect.

 

[John and Cecil]

We have 150 miles on our Raleigh Kodiak without any issues. I tightened it up good and then I took a heavy duty ziptie and I wrapped it around in an x pattern. The motor has not budged Here is a link to our build thread, but there is not much there. Yours may be more difficult as our pivot point is quite a bit above the bb. Maybe you can ziptie from the hole in the mounting plate around the lower shock support bracket if the pivot point gets in the way.



https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=93337&p=1369794#p1369794

 

[artyy]

Thanks, but the problem is that i'm gonna use 750W engine and I intend to use this bike in really tough conditions. As you might think about acting forces, this engine will tend to rotate backwards (in the direction of the rear wheel). So I think it can be quite funny interacting with the wheel...

 

[John and Cecil]

We have the 750w too, we don't jump but I am sure the motor is not going to move no matter what I do. My issues are the rack and dog carrier for offroading, not the motor mounting. We climbed a 25% grade trail up 150' today standing and pedaling full speed with the dog on the back.

They make zipties that can withstand 100's of lbs of force. I have reels of really heavy duty ones, they are like small belts

Perhaps you can run a ubolt around the frame too and mount to the hole in the bb mounting bracket.

 

[Speady]

Hi @arty, the mid drive rotates towards your downtube. That's anticlockwise seen from chainwheel side
So just place some rubber onto the contact area and that's all.

 

[artyy]

To: John and Cecil :
In fact, I haven't received the kit yet, but trying to predict what would happen. Did you use two duty zipties in an X pattern?

To:Speady
You are perfectly right, but are you sure that suffices (I mean did you do that in reality?). I am looking for proven solutions.

 

[John and Cecil]

To: John and Cecil :
In fact, I haven't received the kit yet, but trying to predict what would happen. Did you use two duty zipties in an X pattern?

To:Speady
You are perfectly right, but are you sure that suffices (I mean did you do that in reality?). I am looking for proven solutions.

I used one ziptie and I wrapped it around twice in an x pattern around the bb and on both sides of the downtube. You are going to have to improvise. I understand though, after I got the motor I figured I was screwed because there is no place to bolt to the kickstand plate. I am really pedaling this thing hard though to get up some steep hills with 35lbs on the rear rack and it isn't budging. The ziptie I used is 1/4" wide however I have reels of Deltec make-your-own and they are 1/2" wide and have separate clamping mechanisms so you can make zipties up to 50' long. I believe truckers use the deltec ones to secure cargo

BTW, that is one sweet looking frame. We only have a single pivot point frame but we aren't taking any jumps or anything due to chubby little Cecil riding on the back.

I took a pic from the back so you can see what we did, it was just a quick try to get on the road quickly but it has held up well so far.

 

[artyy]

"stopgap is the most stable" thanks for pic it says everything, at least one tested, reliable solution.

 

[Speady]

 

[jbalat]

Agree motor always wants to rotate upwards so make sure you put a piece of thick rubber (I use car heater hose) between the motor and downtube.
To make sure the motor does not come undone I use the plastic washer/spacer that I removed from my bottom bracket. The plastic is compressed and keeps tension on the nut. I use the bike for offroad riding and have been over plenty of jumps no problems.

 

[artyy]

Great guys, so I think I will do as Speady, jbalat, and " John and Cecil" said (I can combine all approaches) and it should be working well. The most important is that I don't have to make any frame improvements (like welding) which would be a real drawback.
BTW Thanks for answering, jbalat.

 

[Waynemarlow]

Bafung use a similar setup without any additional mounts to steady rotation, they have a washer on the left side which has indents punched into it much like a serrated washer. I used a centre punch to make series of dimples around the washer supplied for the TDSZ2 to act as a similar washer and once torqued up correctly, I've had no issues on my 500W unit of it trying to rotate.

Zipties would in my opinion be a waste of time, the stretch over the length and lack of ability to really tighten them would mean the very small movement you would get if the motor turned would only be taken up in tightening them.

 

[ashrambo]

Bafung use a similar setup without any additional mounts to steady rotation, they have a washer on the left side which has indents punched into it much like a serrated washer. I used a centre punch to make series of dimples around the washer supplied for the TDSZ2 to act as a similar washer and once torqued up correctly, I've had no issues on my 500W unit of it trying to rotate.

Zipties would in my opinion be a waste of time, the stretch over the length and lack of ability to really tighten them would mean the very small movement you would get if the motor turned would only be taken up in tightening them.

Could you upload photos ?, I'm very interested in that modification. It´s for a monopivote frame like santa cruz heckler. thanks

 

[Waynemarlow]

Sorry its on the bike and as I have to reason to loosen it, piccies are going to be difficult

 

[pumasong]

Hi all,

I thought I'd post here and share my experiences, as a read of this post and a few others like it helped immensely in my build.

I wanted to install the TSDZ2 in my Trek EX5 full suspension frame, having previously had some success on an old Giant NRS1, again full suspension. Previously I was able to fit the motor to the frame and torque it down enough that it didn't move, but for some reason this didn't work on the Trek. It also was a less than ideal solution and a bit of a "bodge".

After reading this thread, I set about fabricating a crude bracket that could be mounted at the bottom of the seat tube and then connect to the TSDZ2 rear mounting bracket. I used an old piece of Dexion racking which I cut down to a small V section, to which I welded a flat section with a hole. The picture below shows the result (excuse the dodgy welding :lol: )






I ended up cutting the upright off of the top plate, to leave a flat mounting plate, which you can just about make out in the following pic of the bracket installed (this is with the bike upside down):


View attachment 1


I removed and painted the bracket, and then fitted to the seat tube with a jubilee type hose clip:





I plan to replace the silver clip with a couple of black hose clips I found on eBay, but so far the solution is working great, and cost pretty much nothing.

Hope this helps someone in their project!

 

[pumasong]

I should also mention that I replaced the standard front cog for a 50T to make the gearing higher, which necessitated a longer chain. But now top speed is > 30mph which is a lot of fun!