No, that's not the case.
When the lights are turned on, the data is displayed sequentially, for the time set for each piece of data.
If you set a time to zero, that piece of data is displayed continuously and the sequence is interrupted.
You probably set the "Data 1" time to zero.
If you want to see the next piece of data, the time must be different from zero, max 250 (25 seconds).
You also need to understand the system's limitations.
Setting a high number of data is fine for values that change slowly (temperature, voltage, used Wh) and with short display times.
But if the data changes quickly (cadence, power, current) and is displayed over long periods of time, you'll end up no longer knowing which piece of data you're looking at.
That's why, to display cadence, I recommended displaying just one piece of data.
Yes, above 80 rpm the power starts to decrease; that's normal.
It may even drop to 100/150 W if the cadence is very high, above 100 rpm at 18 kHz and 110 rpm at 19 kHz, and further increasing the cadence will cause the power to drop to zero.
Keep in mind that pedal pressure also affects power; the force applied at 100 rpm is less than at 80 rpm, even if it feels the same to you.
At those speeds, you're definitely pedaling on flat ground, and it's easy to exceed the cadence limit beyond which you lose power.
I've seen 300 W at 110 rpm, but in different conditions, a very steep climb and a low gear.
If you need more speed and you ride mostly on flat ground, choose a larger chainring, but if you ride a lot of hills, stick with the 34T chainring and settle for 27 km/h. The motor will heat up less and last longer.
I find it strange to only reach 27 km/h with a 34T chainring, I have a 30T chainring and 29" wheels, at 80 rpm I reach 28 km/h, you probably have smaller wheels.
Thank you for the information. Now I understand everything.May be an idea, go back to page 113 when I was messing with my 48V TSDZ2B "but as the torque sensor seemed a bit limp or I am just a light weight, I increased by 20% the Power and Torque Assist Mode values to give me the same feel as on my other bike, did not want a this point in time to open the TSDZ2B up and mess with the torque sensor, know what load cell elements are like" I have put the screen shots there and no I did not a calibration, been fine since January.
Recently, my son and I did some testing with the bike, and he says the support with OSF is much better than it was at the beginning with the original setup and the original 42T chainring in the front.
We're riding with a 34T front chainring, and the speed on flat terrain is about 25–27 km/h. The 34T chainring in the front has to stay because it allows him to ride in the mountains.
I'm considering adding a second chainring in the front and modifying the front derailleur so he can switch from 34T to 40T (or 38T) when there’s a lot of asphalt and flat terrain.
Thank you very much for taking the time to answer my questions and provide explanations, and for developing OSF. Much respect to you all.
Best regards, and I wish you all the best.