Turnigy HXT Powered Custom Cruiser Worklog

I hope you're joking about the poly resin. At least upgrade to vinyl ester resin. I wouldn't waste good carbon fibre on poly.
 
John in CR said:
I hope you're joking about the poly resin. At least upgrade to vinyl ester resin. I wouldn't waste good carbon fibre on poly.
Click to expand...

Yes, will be using epoxy resin not the polyester my mistake half asleep still.

Had the lads cart my recently scored exercise equipment up to the workshop
yesterday so i can break it down and build a frame jig from it, this will
be a keeper so will take some time to get it spot on, my boilermaker/welder
mate has over 20 years in the business and has offered his assistance also
this will ensure a first class jig he is a master of jigs is my mate Flavio.

I took the Turbigy from the cruiser late last night, decided i would make up a bracket for Burties
halls sensor mount and play with this today see if i can have any luck.
I have several things against me...Biggest issue is if the controller is still functioning
i could get the right hall and phase combo but the controller maybe dead :-S
Shall fiddle with it for awhile till i get discouraged...will report back on the progress.

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Biggest issue is if the controller is still functioning
i could get the right hall and phase combo but the controller maybe dead :-S
Shall fiddle with it for awhile till i get discouraged...will report back on the progress.
Click to expand...
Hopefully it's OK. It's probably just a matter of getting the halls positioned right and then the right combo. Even with the wiring arse about you should atleast get some stutter or jolts from the motor.

I have a lil frock motor here I can send you to test it. The only condition is you have to bolt it to your bike and take a picture of you sitting on it, and you have to be smiling :mrgreen:
 
I got a roll of 12k weight carbon fiber 2x2 twill weave, 60" wide, and 30yds or so long. It was like $500-600 bucks from the Boeing areospace auction place. 12k weave is really heavy duty stuff, it's like burlap sack thickness, so it's generally not wanted by most of the folks trying to make fancy pretty stuff with a tight little weave. On the bright side, for DIY'ing parts with it, just cutting out 1-2 layers gets you an 1/8th of material thickness, so it's nice not to need to cut-out 10 pieces of cloth to lay together to make something have some rigidity.

If you've got any areospace places down there, check into their auctions, might find some stuff for pennies on the dollar.

If your track's motorcycle guys are anything like the motorcycle guys at the tracks here in Seattle, you won't have a bit of trouble finding a rider to flog your machine down the 1320 for you. Pick a guy that's running consistant 8's or 9's, tell him you've got a bike you want tried that you think might do a 12. That way you know you'll get a rider that will keep it pinned no matter how sketchy things get, because the most sketchy spooky pass on a 12second machine is still more comfortable feeling than the cleanest text-book pass on an 8second machine. :)
 
AussieJester said:
I took the Turbigy from the cruiser late last night, decided i would make up a bracket for Burties
halls sensor mount and play with this today see if i can have any luck.
I have several things against me...Biggest issue is if the controller is still functioning
i could get the right hall and phase combo but the controller maybe dead :-S
Shall fiddle with it for awhile till i get discouraged...will report back on the progress.

KiM
Click to expand...

Hi KiM,
When you mount your hall sensor block have the center hall lined up with one of the slots in the motor ( dont have to be exact ) and connect your hall wires to the controller ( dosnt matter what order but make sure the supplys to the halls are correct ), connect the 3 phase wires anyorder and power the whole thing up SLOWLY turn the throttle the motor will either run or just stutter if it stutters then swap a phase wire with another and try again, swap single phase wires around till it runs . When you have it running then you need to tune it, this is just a matter of running the motor slowly up and watch the current meter adjust the halls to draw the least amount of current as you wind it up.
 
Hyena said:
I have a lil frock motor here I can send you to test it.
Click to expand...

And i have an angle grinder with heaps of cuttoff disks to cut it into teenie tiny itty bitz to save on postage sending it back :mrgreen:

I got side tracked with repainting the enclosure lid today a mate dropped around not long after lunch took half a day so that ended the days 'working on bike' activities, will have a look into the controller situation tomorrow, cheers for the run down on the connecting GWhy hopefully i can get some sense out of it, if i can ill make the call then whether ill pop the halls internally and use the controller now or wait for the new motors. Back to the lid for the enclosure, there was a slight 'dimple' in the side, not visible in pics but in the right light i could see it so i removed this with a coat of primer filler and light sand and resprayed the blue and clear had 3 coats on when my spray painter mate rocks in, he grabs a can of acrylic clear and asks if he can give it the 4th coat "sure" i said...i didn't realise he grabbed a different brand clear acrylic i had sitting on the table, chemical reaction resulted in 1000's of pin size dimples in the clear gloss, i left it overnight to dry and sanded out the dimples and recoated it with another 6 coast of clear today in between chatting with enoob hehee heres a couple of pics of the re-pained lid i took to show enoobz earlier today...

IMG_5097.jpg


IMG_5096.jpg


Happy now the lil imperfection is gone anywayz shall buff and polish it tomorrow and popz him back on the bike :)

Also had my mate to take me to the local bike shop this arvo after Tim called letting me know the longer brake line turned up, he ordered 3meter but two was delivered not sure it will be long enough so hes given it to me to try and also loaned me his personal Avid Bleed kit...who said bike shops don't like lecky bike owners, Tim and Jo look after me i get great discount on everything i buy they obviously realise electrics use bicycle parts to and theres business to be made. Anyhoot can take the cable disk brakes off the bike and fit up the hydraulics tomorrow, have teed up two buddies to help do some filming this weekend too, following me in the car as i ride the bike.

Back soon

KiM
 
Hey AJ,

Before you go cutting up Hyena's frockie, don't forget your RC motor is just a little candy-ass frock motor without it's little baby size wheel. :lol:

John
 
recumpence said:
Ooo, ooo, that sounds like a challenge! :mrgreen:

Matt
Click to expand...


Dont underestimate JJ's latest piece of fabricated excellence <- yes to the trained eye it may look geometrically challenged but Luke has assured us all
and I quote "this will be the highest speed E-bike built to date, if not the highest speed E-bike ever built."
I know i know Matt, it's a daunting task to take on and we will understand entirely if you decided
not to accept the challenge :mrgreen: Me...i'll just pop a second 6500watt Turnigys on crank up the
action to 88v and see how it performs at speed, not to concerned TBH its far from my main priority
atm, i don't want to mess with the gearing and destroy the fast acceleration i have now just so i
can brag that its quicker top end than JJ's frock motored creation... thankfully i won't have any tank
slapping to contend with though, i don't have the Jedi riding abilities of Johnny boy to deal with it.... :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

So...I got my hands on a 2meter hydraulic
brake line local bike shop ordered it in for me and loaned me a bleed kit
so I whipped off the cheap-o cable pull brakes and installed
my nearly as cheap Avid Juicy 7 hydraulic brakes I picked up
off a Endless Sphere forum member (Methods) for ~$AU120 (possibly 115 i forget now Methy looked after me anywayz :) )
bucks delivered for the PAIR!! needed a set of pads for front calliper
they were missing, in as new condition other than the missing pads ($AU30 to replace)
considering new they are ~$AU140 EACH!!! I got a good deal :)

Avid_Juicy_7_Hydraulic_brakes_installed_pics.jpg


I still need to bleed them I messed about
most of the afternoon having to make a new adapter plate for
the front calliper and then another unscheduled stop to the bike
shop for another collet for the brake line (long story) So as yet
untested but will get onto it first thing in the a.m
Added in a sneak peak of the new scooter wheels too (don't want
to reveal the whole bike to my final video/pictorial, figure have to
keep something to the end for y'all :) )

Shall be back very soon with some video and final
pics of completed ride to close out this worklog...

Ciao for now...

KiM
 
Excuses excuses. I wasn't even going to run my 2wd, which won't be road ready, much less race ready, for a while. I was saving it for Ass Whipping take 2, after you get your second motor and wanted a rematch. :mrgreen:
 
Ahhh bugger, I thought the new bike of yours was going to be up and running pretty soon John?
You have the chassis in rolling stage now, Are you waiting on some more parts or
batteries are you?

Speaking of batteries, I Got email yesterday HobbyCity 6s Turnigys back instock
hoping that the motor shipment will lob soon. I whimped out of fitting halls to this one,
i'm not happy with the external setup. Less times i pull this motor apart the better
until i have a couple of spare back up motors, i'll stick with the RC esc at least till then...
Off to bleed my brakes and test em out... :lol:

KiM
 
Nice brakes bro! I just picked up some Juicy 5"s myself. What kind of exercise machine will you be building into a jig? I would like to know what to look for if anybody has one free around here. Damn those brakes look good, let me know how they feel.
 
etard said:
Nice brakes bro! I just picked up some Juicy 5"s myself. What kind of exercise machine will you be building into a jig? I would like to know what to look for if anybody has one free around here. Damn those brakes look good, let me know how they feel.
Click to expand...

Yes very flash indeed are the Juicy 7's I'll have to take a pic of the exercise equipment for you, i picked it up last collection from the house right next door hahaha Matt.P and I had just finished driving around the hills collecting and were pulling in home when i spotted it. It has a leg extension table on it this will be used as the base of the jig its heaps long, the upright where i think the lat pull bar is will be used for the rest of the jig, anyhoot ill get a pic ofr you soon ;)

KiM
 
AussieJester said:
Ahhh bugger, I thought the new bike of yours was going to be up and running pretty soon John?
You have the chassis in rolling stage now....
Click to expand...

I could get it rolling pretty quick if I want to go with no front brake, which seems like a bbbaaaadddd idea. It's just too tight a squeeze, so I have to get a 280mm brake disc fabbed similar to what HAL9000 did. I tried to fly the concept of paying extra for express service, but that was just beyond their comprehension. "Hopefully" next week for the disk. We're starting to get some rain, so I've got end of dry season house stuff to keep busy. Even the damn grass is starting to grow again. :cry:
 
gwhy! said:
Hi KiM,
What is your current draw with your motor no load on 44v.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hooked up to the driveline wheel off ground or 'free standing' motor hooke to nothing ?

I read yours was high through the gearbox of the scooter your converting so though i best clarify.

KiM
 
free wheeling if you can AJ. just to gage motor draw at full throtle & no load.
thx T
 
AussieJester said:
gwhy! said:
Hi KiM,
What is your current draw with your motor no load on 44v.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hooked up to the driveline wheel off ground or 'free standing' motor hooke to nothing ?

I read yours was high through the gearbox of the scooter your converting so though i best clarify.

KiM
Click to expand...

Mine draws a tad under 6A no load , not connected to anything 'free standing'
 
gwhy! said:
AussieJester said:
gwhy! said:
Hi KiM,
What is your current draw with your motor no load on 44v.

Cheers.
Click to expand...

Hooked up to the driveline wheel off ground or 'free standing' motor hooke to nothing ?

I read yours was high through the gearbox of the scooter your converting so though i best clarify.

KiM
Click to expand...

Mine draws a tad under 6A no load , not connected to anything 'free standing'
Click to expand...

I have the motor back in the bike now, i will loosen the motor off and take the belt off the
reduction drive and spin it up, still dark outside 6am give me a few hours and ill letz you know :)

I did spins it up aaaaages ago but i dont recall the numbers now soz...6a sounds good though..

random 'teaser pic' to hold peoples interest :mrgreen:




KiM
 
HAL9000v2.0 said:
Is this hole for CA?
IF YES THEN SHOW us how you mounted CA below.
Click to expand...

Sorry Hal i totally forgot to take pics of the "mounting" of it, i use a Turnigy meter not a CA...
I haven't permanently mounted the meter as i like the ability to remove the top completely
without messing about with undoing bolts that would hold in a meter, so i built up a recess area
i guess you could call it with hot glue! I wrapped the meter in aluminium foil and then brushed a lil
release agent on it so it would be a nice push fit, the meter sits in there and doesn't mive
the battery is underneath it an inch away so if it ever moves a small
square of foam rubber is all that would be needed to keep it in place...hasn't need it thus far...

Battery_enclosure_Turnigy_Meter_mounting_pic.jpg


It pops out easily so i can take the lid of the enclosure off and access the batteries and
writing etc I also popped in a grill for the scoop, doesn't come up well in the pic but its
polished steel and i have spray 3 coats of gloss enamel of it to prevent it rusting...

KiM
 
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