Uber hub - take 2 - Econ Build

gobi

10 kW
Joined
Jan 9, 2021
Messages
546
As I am waiting on the mongoose fat bike bafang rear 1kw hub to arrive, I was bored and splurged on a top of the line wallys bike.

Meet Ms Light Yellow, this will replace Mr Yellow from last year which I picked from a neighbor few block down.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Huffy-Ashland-26-In-Women-s-Commuter-Bike-White/861568369

2d3971e8-9853-46f9-b110-d29a40111f67.de66ac989340b13c699ab34fc1c2f637.jpeg


When I was in the fufu bike shop to ask if can help me measure my rim for the ERD, I saw the Electra bikes, my jaw dropped when I saw the amount of triangle space those bikes have.

The price tag was a bit steep for the electras and I could not bring myself to swipe by costco visa as bikes get stolen where I live.

This wally's bike has a similar shape and I am hoping it will lend to a decent battery stash above the pedals in the downtube.

So I picked this up for a simple clean build to I can ride to my starbucks (1.1 mile away).

Notice NO front suspension or rear. OUCH!

I was totally depending on a suspension saddle stem and a nice big saddle.

I got the bike last night and the bleeping seat stem measures 25.6 mm,

I could NOT find a suspension seat stem in that size, I am guessing it is bit TOOO flipping narrow.

More soon, gootttta to the garage and fishing putting it together. Very excited. I am moving the stuff off Mr Yellow to Ms Light Yellow

--------------------------
Update:
1. Installed the uber wheel/hub in the front, I had to back out the disk pad a bit for the brake to fit, it was rubbing a bit.
2. I am using the KT controller off PSW I bought last year, it is a sinewave with 10A
3. Brake lever port side - I took off the port side brake wire to take the lever out, new brake lever from the kit is going in there.
4. Brake lever starb side - this has the integrated trigger shifter - so I need to get a magnetic sensor for that lever and keep the current setup.
5. LCD - I am splurging here, I am going to use the nicer LCD off psw KT-LCD8S
6. Torque Arm - I torque arm for now on the Starboard side, I don't think I have enough on the axle to add a torque arm.
7. Installed the fenders and rack, added some marine grease to the bolt threads to prevent rust, I will back out of the bolts and add marine grease to the threads

-------------
Parts list and cost [I will make a build post also]
1. Walmart Huffy Ashland Commuter - 180$

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Huffy-Ashland-26-In-Women-s-Commuter-Bike-White/8615683692
2. Schwinn Gigantitis saddle to match my behind - $29
3. PSW Power - KT Controller - $29 (includes apportioned shipping
4. Bafang Hub (BCH) - $65
5. Handle bar extension (amazon) - $13
6. Throttle, brake lever (PSWPower) - $15 ish
7. KT LCD Color - $49
8. Seat stem - $15
 
Look for a used Electra bicycle, should be about half the price as new.
 
gobi said:
Notice NO front suspension or rear. OUCH!
Lends itself to a (much simpler) front hubmotor!

gobi said:
I got the bike last night and the bleeping seat step measure 25.6 mm,

I could NOT find a suspension seat stem in that size, I am guessing it is bit TOOO flipping narrow.
Seat post shims are widely available and commonly used for this situation.
 
Wish I had bought a Huffy like that for my Uber project. I picked a Walmart Hyoer with rim brakes. Upgrading the rear to disk at the moment.

As far as seat post suspension, I think the gooder stuff doesn't come in 25.6mm.
 
docw009 said:
As far as seat post suspension, I think the gooder stuff doesn't come in 25.6mm.
Oh you are correct, don't know what I was thinking, somehow got turned around thinking a shim would help. :roll:
 
gobi said:
I was totally depending on a suspension saddle stem and a nice big saddle.

I got the bike last night and the bleeping seat step measure 25.6 mm,

I could NOT find a suspension seat stem in that size, I am guessing it is bit TOOO flipping narrow.

Here you go,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224805847115?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

https://www.ebay.com/itm/334323469631?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Alloy-Suspension-Seat-Post-25-4mm-Silver/163210021
 
calab said:
Look for a used Electra bicycle, should be about half the price as new.

yeah, [insert song, I have been looking for a bike like ....] no luck on FB or craigs, plus patience is not a virtue that the good Lord has blessed me with, plus my luck runs like this, now that a I have bought one, I will probably find one a block from my house ;)

Most of the new ones with front disk and rear 7 speed run around $800 new? so most people ask around $500 ish.

The $$ on wallys was just too juicy to not say no, the color was nice too, I like that color.
 
99t4 said:
gobi said:
Notice NO front suspension or rear. OUCH!
Lends itself to a (much simpler) front hubmotor!

gobi said:
I got the bike last night and the bleeping seat step measure 25.6 mm,

I could NOT find a suspension seat stem in that size, I am guessing it is bit TOOO flipping narrow.
Seat post shims are widely available and commonly used for this situation.

It is a steel bike, so thumbs up from the forum, I don't plan on abusing it or run 1000w, 350w bafang uber geared hub in the front with a BIG azz battery, 36v 30ah.

lol, I could shim it progressively to expand it :)

Eastwood - You are the man, thanks I picked up 2 of them from the ebay guy, got 2 for the price of 1 off amazon.
 
docw009 said:
Wish I had bought a Huffy like that for my Uber project. I picked a Walmart Hyoer with rim brakes. Upgrading the rear to disk at the moment.

As far as seat post suspension, I think the gooder stuff doesn't come in 25.6mm.

I hear you, searching for bikes on wallys website is cumbersome, I had to filter out adult bikes and sold by wallys to find this one.

Disk brake, fenders, and rear rack, I agree I think this bike is a good value, plus it looks like a copy of the electras, nice!

are you using a kit for rear disk? more info please [sorry for the newbie question]
 
calab said:
You must be in a smaller town
Is fb and craigs the biggest online classifieds?

gobi said:
no luck on FB or craigs

demand and supply, yes, small town, if I drive to Chicago, I could pick one up, but that is 6 hours total and $100 in gas, yeah, hard to find stuff where I am and plus we have 4 inches of fresh snow on the ground and 17F for low.

I am guessing most people are not putting out their nice bikes on a for sale ad, lol.
 
docw009 said:
gobi said:
are you using a kit for rear disk? more info please [sorry for the newbie question]

Using an 18 dollar adapter that clamps onto the dropout. Work in progress at the moment. Will post a picture later. SInce I'm using a regular QR wheel, I didn't need to get fancy.

PICT0011.JPG

Doc,
Thanks, I remember you mentioning picking up this bike mid last year, I have been looking since for a Commuterish bike, slim picking huh, finally things are picking up.

We need to create a repository of CAD diagrams of popular rear ends for guys to cut custom adapter plates.

Are you going to paint that before installation?

I need to put together a decent 36v battery for my maiden voyage.
 
IMG_1872.JPEGAdapter on bike. If it had been a motor, I would have aligned the adapter to the dropout slot and fastened it with tapped screw holes, not using the shiny plate.Then the motor could just slide in/out. For a normal axle/skewer, I used the plate as intended. I did have to get a slightly longer skewer,

Since I had a crap bike, the dropouts were not perpedicular, but bent inward, so the adapter needed some shimming so the caliper pads could be parallel to the rotor. It brakes pretty well, but I had to re-seat the pistons and recenter the calipers. A bit of rubbing, I'm using cheapo zoom hydraulics with hoses. They're cheaper than AVid BB7's,
 

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docw009 said:
IMG_1872.JPEGAdapter on bike. If it had been a motor, I would have aligned the adapter to the dropout slot and fastened it with tapped screw holes, not using the shiny plate.Then the motor could just slide in/out. For a normal axle/skewer, I used the plate as intended. I did have to get a slightly longer skewer,

Since I had a crap bike, the dropouts were not perpedicular, but bent inward, so the adapter needed some shimming so the caliper pads could be parallel to the rotor. It brakes pretty well, but I had to re-seat the pistons and recenter the calipers. A bit of rubbing, I'm using cheapo zoom hydraulics with hoses. They're cheaper than AVid BB7's,

Look good, what did you use to shim the adapter?
How is the braking now compared to before?
 
Update:

Seat post came in, brought the bike upstairs into the tv/game room to work on, the garage was just too cold.

I was trying to install the LCD-9 screen and took of the screws with my bosch and forgot the nut drops off the back when I was done, lost BOTH nutz.

I am rethinking the ENTIRE battery deal since I read (Ron's - both spinnymags and the EU Ron) thread about voltage spikes and keeping the battery cable short.
Does that matter if I am using a Sinewave KT controller?

Next: Install wood plank on top of rear carrier like this pic,
How do I go about installing the wood to the carrier?
 

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gobi said:
How do I go about installing the wood to the carrier?

Improvise. Search on a combination of tubing/pipe/conduit clamp/strap/loom. 1/4" looks like it might work. Of course you'd need screws too.
 
E-HP said:
gobi said:
How do I go about installing the wood to the carrier?

Improvise. Search on a combination of tubing/pipe/conduit clamp/strap/loom. 1/4" looks like it might work. Of course you'd need screws too.

Perfect, I found 8mm stainless on amazon, now I need to find few more things to buy to avail the free shipping.

I want to switch the front light (0.5 amps), rear light (.2 amps) @ 48v all on one switch, I have a push button switch that came with the light/horn from PSW, can I just use that?

Trying to keep lights at 48v so I don't need a 12v converter.
 
The stainless clips from amazon are here,
I cut off the front edge off the factory rear rack so the wood lays flat.

I measured the rear and I wanted to be a little shorter than the rear fender and all the way to the seat post.

23 inch x 8 inch,

I am planning using regular construction plywood with 2 coats of polyurathane, do I coat both side or just the top sides. And attach this on top of the rear rack.
 
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