Reid Welch
1 MW
RETITLE of an existing thread. The fun soon begins on the following pages.
But, below, is how this story started: old text:
It was like this:
so, she hit me. The damage seemed to be mostly to the rear wheel.
That was a couple of weeks ago. The bike is now replaced: Coral Way Bike Shop
gave me the replacement at virtual cost. They are so good to me when I need help like this,
or any time: they go the extra mile, like good LBSs do as a matter of making repeat customers.
They, TREK, must be conservative, for legal reasons, I suppose, because one never knows if a taco'd wheel,
which also was a teriffic side impact of the rear frame at the axle nut enough to put the frame of the original Lime out of line.
Warranty voided. Cheaper to buy a new bike, esp. considering the shop's "give it at cost" treatment to myself.
That was nice of them at Coral Way Bike Shop, losing money over me, to help make up for HER reckless driving and Police failure
to even issue a traffic accident report: "You just got skeeered and faw'd down".
I got the bike in the box, sealed, as requested, $ 400 for the Lime Lite. It is minor work, but several hours for a newbie to put together
and adjust.
You can see how a new bike is packed in pictures to come.
I really like the LIME for this light, pleasure riding it is to be used for.
I like the "gadget" aspect of it, and I like that it's so super simple and clean looking.
WHY replace?I did not think that I had to do so at first;
even the Bike Shop did their best to =see= if it could or should be repaired. NO, but
that was only determined after we ordered and paid for a new rear wheel assembly.
TREK says, not I, and SHE and the Kop did this crime:
I like the light weight of aluminum, welded, but...for a hard-ridden bike like my e-cruiser,
mild, "hi tensile" steel is just so much more eternal. Same sort of steel as Model T used, nearly.
I am a steel fan, but like the LIME for light duty and for its auto shifting.
THIS REPLACEMENT LIME is identical to the first, in that it, too DOES NOT WORK (shift) out of the box.
TWO things, at least, must be done, or it can't shift up from low gear.
Doubtless, if "2009" models come, the Shimano-factory flaws will be fixed: cable half an inch too long, for instance.
Also to get to the auto shifter motor's vital "N" adjustment, a =mechanical= click and turn back till it locks (simple),
requires: pull off the right crank, GET SPECIAL shop tool "socket to fit the weird "nut" that captures the chain protector.
THEN you can access the Shimano shifter motor, remove its cover and do the two second pre-set,
which must be done to the new bike... I think, because the new cable simply is too long, or it stretches.
No problem that can't be solved. It's a simple bike. Am about to take LIME #2 for a first ride.
NEED that special socket (will have it early next week) before I can access the shifter motor "in the proper way":
not have to cut a hole through it (but probably will, anyway).
Pictures to follow. Kept the first Lime's front wheel because its Hank is already mounted, and the mag and its bearings are perfect;
it's a perfect wheel. Stem is reversed, just as I like, and the pre-existing not-stock ThudBuster,
it is on the bike, as are LIME #1's aftermarket Planet bike lights. Fenders are here: have two sets of P.B. "Freddy Fenders.
SHE or HE will pay for that extra set, and have all the spare LIME parts needed to make a complete killa-cop exercycle.
The man who illegally confabulated a "let's let her go", weights 300 pounds if he weights a stone. He landed on me, instead, like a ton of lies.
But, below, is how this story started: old text:
It was like this:
so, she hit me. The damage seemed to be mostly to the rear wheel.
That was a couple of weeks ago. The bike is now replaced: Coral Way Bike Shop
gave me the replacement at virtual cost. They are so good to me when I need help like this,
or any time: they go the extra mile, like good LBSs do as a matter of making repeat customers.
They, TREK, must be conservative, for legal reasons, I suppose, because one never knows if a taco'd wheel,
which also was a teriffic side impact of the rear frame at the axle nut enough to put the frame of the original Lime out of line.
Warranty voided. Cheaper to buy a new bike, esp. considering the shop's "give it at cost" treatment to myself.
That was nice of them at Coral Way Bike Shop, losing money over me, to help make up for HER reckless driving and Police failure
to even issue a traffic accident report: "You just got skeeered and faw'd down".
I got the bike in the box, sealed, as requested, $ 400 for the Lime Lite. It is minor work, but several hours for a newbie to put together
and adjust.
You can see how a new bike is packed in pictures to come.
I really like the LIME for this light, pleasure riding it is to be used for.
I like the "gadget" aspect of it, and I like that it's so super simple and clean looking.
WHY replace?I did not think that I had to do so at first;
even the Bike Shop did their best to =see= if it could or should be repaired. NO, but
that was only determined after we ordered and paid for a new rear wheel assembly.
TREK says, not I, and SHE and the Kop did this crime:
:|overload stress (high-force load)
An overload, or high-stress load, is a single, one-time force that exceeds the strength of the bicycle frame,
fork, or part. As an example, running into an immovable objectâ€â€even at speeds under 15 miles per hour (20 kph)
â€â€can result in an overload.
After an overload, the frame or part will probably be bent or completely broken (separation of the material).
However, the results of an overload can be more subtle, appearing more like the damage from fatigue.
In addition, with both fatigue stress and overload stress, carbon fiber parts behave differently than do metal parts.
After any high force load, thoroughly inspect all the parts of your bicycle.
High force loads include crashes, but you don't have to crash to put a high force load on your bicycle.
For example, hitting a large hole in the road or a sharp bump such as a railroad track can put large forces on your bicycle.
Even if you perform regular inspections, if you exceed the limit of strength of your bicycle or a given part, it will fail.
The Limited Lifetime warranty offered with your bicycle does not mean that your bicycle cannot break;
it only means the bicycle is subject to the terms of the warranty.
Load and lifespan
The life span of a part varies according to its design, materials, use, and maintenance.
Although lighter frames or parts may, in some cases, have a longer life span than heavier ones,
it should be expected that light weight, high performance bicycles and parts require better care and more frequent inspections.
The manner in which you ride can add stress.
The most significant variable to durability, is the manner in which you ride.
This will determine whether your bicycle and its parts will last your lifetime.
If you ride hard or aggressively, you should replace the bicycle and/or its parts more often
than riders who ride smoothly or cautiously.
There are many variables to this equation: weight, speed, technique, terrain, maintenance,
riding environment (humidity, salinity, temperature, etc.), and the frame or part itself-
so it is impossible to give a precise timetable for replacement.
As a rule, it is better to err on the safe side and replace the bicycle or parts more frequently.
If you aren't sure, ask your dealer.
Replace any part that shows signs of stress.
If any part shows signs of damage or fatigue, replace the part before riding the bicycle.
When replacing a part, always replace the entire structure.
For example, if the fork was impacted, some of the impact was inevitably passed to the frame
â€â€so you should replace the entire frame.
When you replace a frame or a part, don't pass the problem to someone else; destroy it.
Regularly inspect your entire bicycle for signs of stress:
I like the light weight of aluminum, welded, but...for a hard-ridden bike like my e-cruiser,
mild, "hi tensile" steel is just so much more eternal. Same sort of steel as Model T used, nearly.
I am a steel fan, but like the LIME for light duty and for its auto shifting.
THIS REPLACEMENT LIME is identical to the first, in that it, too DOES NOT WORK (shift) out of the box.
TWO things, at least, must be done, or it can't shift up from low gear.
Doubtless, if "2009" models come, the Shimano-factory flaws will be fixed: cable half an inch too long, for instance.
Also to get to the auto shifter motor's vital "N" adjustment, a =mechanical= click and turn back till it locks (simple),
requires: pull off the right crank, GET SPECIAL shop tool "socket to fit the weird "nut" that captures the chain protector.
THEN you can access the Shimano shifter motor, remove its cover and do the two second pre-set,
which must be done to the new bike... I think, because the new cable simply is too long, or it stretches.
No problem that can't be solved. It's a simple bike. Am about to take LIME #2 for a first ride.
NEED that special socket (will have it early next week) before I can access the shifter motor "in the proper way":
not have to cut a hole through it (but probably will, anyway).
Pictures to follow. Kept the first Lime's front wheel because its Hank is already mounted, and the mag and its bearings are perfect;
it's a perfect wheel. Stem is reversed, just as I like, and the pre-existing not-stock ThudBuster,
it is on the bike, as are LIME #1's aftermarket Planet bike lights. Fenders are here: have two sets of P.B. "Freddy Fenders.
SHE or HE will pay for that extra set, and have all the spare LIME parts needed to make a complete killa-cop exercycle.
The man who illegally confabulated a "let's let her go", weights 300 pounds if he weights a stone. He landed on me, instead, like a ton of lies.