Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

bikerestorers said:
Sorry one last thing. Why would you set the decline to 255 instead of 0? Do we know what the decline setting does?

I just like it this [snappy] way. You need to experiment. Does the same as the prev val, but on decel.
 
SilentEnduro said:
Thanks, checked, didn't helped.
what exactly do you mean by "didn't helped" ? do you mean the wire had no continuity from connector to controller pcb? or that it did, but has no voltage on it from the controller? or what?

if you don't tell us the complete exact results of your tests, or you don't do the tests, we can't know what's wrong to help you fix it.


the thing is that there is strange voltage on hall connector, between black-yellow - 0.7v, black-green - 4v, black-blur - 4.6v :shock:

taht's because there are pullups inside the controller for the signals, as motor halls do not output any voltage. they only ground the controller's built-in signal voltage when magnets pass them.

what the voltages you see probably indicate is the black yellow at the moment you checked it was near a magnet, so it was turned on, and grounding that signal. the green wasn't. the black-blur sounds like it's actually the hall power wire and not a signal. (colors of wires dont' necessarily represent the same thing on different controllers and motors; there are no official standards, and even if there were, no guarantee they get followed).

if you haven't already, i'd recommend checking the wiring diagram for the colors of the wires for each signal of that controller. if it doesn't have one you must open up the controller and trace the wires to make your own diagram. otherwise you can't know which wire is for which signal, and can't make the controller work as expected.
 
Bartosh said:
bikerestorers said:
Sorry one last thing. Why would you set the decline to 255 instead of 0? Do we know what the decline setting does?

I just like it this [snappy] way. You need to experiment. Does the same as the prev val, but on decel.

Definitely best that way. I set the decline to 0 and probably as expected it did not decelerate!
 
bikerestorers said:
Bartosh said:
bikerestorers said:
Sorry one last thing. Why would you set the decline to 255 instead of 0? Do we know what the decline setting does?

I just like it this [snappy] way. You need to experiment. Does the same as the prev val, but on decel.

Definitely best that way. I set the decline to 0 and probably as expected it did not decelerate!

yeah I was hoping you'd say that [; sorry :wink: been there

btw, to whom it may concern, 84V/300bA/500pA [9999], 5000 fw, loaded(!), couldn't stop my ride above 7000-7200 rpm. the controller gets confused, needs to be restarted, so be aware
 
amberwolf said:
SilentEnduro said:
Thanks, checked, didn't helped.
what exactly do you mean by "didn't helped" ? do you mean the wire had no continuity from connector to controller pcb? or that it did, but has no voltage on it from the controller? or what?

if you don't tell us the complete exact results of your tests, or you don't do the tests, we can't know what's wrong to help you fix it.


the thing is that there is strange voltage on hall connector, between black-yellow - 0.7v, black-green - 4v, black-blur - 4.6v :shock:

taht's because there are pullups inside the controller for the signals, as motor halls do not output any voltage. they only ground the controller's built-in signal voltage when magnets pass them.

what the voltages you see probably indicate is the black yellow at the moment you checked it was near a magnet, so it was turned on, and grounding that signal. the green wasn't. the black-blur sounds like it's actually the hall power wire and not a signal. (colors of wires dont' necessarily represent the same thing on different controllers and motors; there are no official standards, and even if there were, no guarantee they get followed).

if you haven't already, i'd recommend checking the wiring diagram for the colors of the wires for each signal of that controller. if it doesn't have one you must open up the controller and trace the wires to make your own diagram. otherwise you can't know which wire is for which signal, and can't make the controller work as expected.

I'll try to describe full picture
Issue - controller is not seeing RPM, and no respond to throttle.
Investigation has shown that there is no voltage from controller to red hall wire. But there is strange voltage to another (blue, green, yellow) hall wires without motor connected, so there is no dependency with exact motor hall position.
what I've tried:
- connected 5v from throttle to red-hall wire, connected motor. Controller still not seeing RPM, and no respond to throttle.
- tried to remove different settings in software such as "stealavoid", "parking". No result
- contacted QS, send 100500 videos and as result get - "This e-lock wire, did you connect with B+?"
- tried to cry. no result
- tried another controller (sabvoton) - motor works ok, so halls are still alive
 
Bartosh said:
bikerestorers said:
Bartosh said:
bikerestorers said:
Sorry one last thing. Why would you set the decline to 255 instead of 0? Do we know what the decline setting does?

I just like it this [snappy] way. You need to experiment. Does the same as the prev val, but on decel.

Definitely best that way. I set the decline to 0 and probably as expected it did not decelerate!

yeah I was hoping you'd say that [; sorry :wink: been there

btw, to whom it may concern, 84V/300bA/500pA [9999], 5000 fw, loaded(!), couldn't stop my ride above 7000-7200 rpm. the controller gets confused, needs to be restarted, so be aware

Do you mean that you can get 300bA and 500pA from the 150sp? I thought it was limited, at least on pA.
 
So you did it? (-; what's your voltage sag or peak power atm?
Why I don't recommend it... External cooling required (enduro, lots of uphills). But I don't abuse my controller :flame: Nooot.

BTW still field testing, waiting for better weather conditions.
 
Hello,from Thailand.
Need help for my China E-scooter with EM-50 controller. For what reason my Scooter now running with limit speed < 15km/h.
I read on "dineshmdes" table in page#2, right now controller faucet lock limit speed due to got some fault notification.
How to unlock speed limit? please advise. Thank you.
 
yingyong said:
Hello,from Thailand.
Need help for my China E-scooter with EM-50 controller. For what reason my Scooter now running with limit speed < 15km/h.
I read on "dineshmdes" table in page#2, right now controller faucet lock limit speed due to got some fault notification.
How to unlock speed limit? please advise. Thank you.

You need to post pictures of the pages, and the display Window.
 
SilverLine said:
yingyong said:
Hello,from Thailand.
Need help for my China E-scooter with EM-50 controller. For what reason my Scooter now running with limit speed < 15km/h.
I read on "dineshmdes" table in page#2, right now controller faucet lock limit speed due to got some fault notification.
How to unlock speed limit? please advise. Thank you.

You need to post pictures of the pages, and the display Window.

Hi SilverLine, Here my picture.
 

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:lol: :lol:
Come on man. How can we help you by looking at a picture of your scooter and keys.
Pictures of your settings on the controller
 
SilverLine said:
:lol: :lol:
Come on man. How can we help you by looking at a picture of your scooter and keys.
Pictures of your settings on the controller

SilverLine,
Sorry not connect to computer now,just order PL2303.
 
Great thread!
I’m about to purchase the qs138 motor and the em150sp package, is it still best to get the SP version?
I have the choice of the older version too. Seems the sp has bit more phase and batt current! But then I hear others say it has loss of power at times!!
 
Em150s has more phase current than em150sp but it seems the em150s controller i have cannot change rise and decline time so even with high current i cannot wheelie.

It’s old so i wonder if this is valid for all em150s controllers or not.
 
I don't believe it's got more pA current. I can easily set about 500A, which is 10000 in the config file, actually 9999 in my case, but this is a 2-byte long val, so you can set above 10k IIRC, but I haven't tried it [yet]. Anyway pA = val set / 20, from my experience.

Regarding the powerloss events, it does limit the output current, either when overheated or/and in wheel-overspin situation. As Votol responded, asking for more details, I'm going to send them some data. At least I wish to know why it happens. Anyway this is WiP.

Edit: I got 356 and 365 pA rms measured.
 
larsb said:
When i set tro to set mor than 9960 the value is not stored. I don’t think you can get higher.

Question is if it’s also relative to max battery current?
It may be. I measured both separately. Ramping could've been affected but I'm not sure... might have been the result of lowering the pA alone.

How do you measure? Seems difficult to get a stable value.
Amp meter with max val option, WOT and rolling. 300 bA is about 300 A measured. 9999 pA is about 360 A RMS measured so close enough for me.
 
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