Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Bartosh said:
Can you export your settings and post the ini file here? About fw - I suppose only votol knows. Anyway happy for you mate. It all depends on the type of riding I guess.
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Lets hope QS can do something. And hopefully its a fw fix and not hw.
 
larsb said:
I removed rear brake and tried sport and high tonight, there's no clear difference. 350A bus bar current is too much, i got cutouts left and right :wink:
I'll see if the torque rise and decline can be set, i recall it wasn't possible last time i tried. My ramping is not agressive in either mode.
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I have to take this back: BMS was connected and set to 300A yesterday. Bus bar capability of my Votol still to be proven.
One thing that was clear though is that there's no difference between sport and high for me.
 
My first post! Maybe this will help someone.
My controller (EM-150 with CAN bus, delivered a month ago) had the park lock set on in the same way as alspeed’s. In my application, I only need the stand lock and reverse switches, so, along with the grey/purple wire to B+, those were the only ones I had connected. So to try and get the motor to spin I tried grounding each of the other switches to see if they had any effect. I discovered that to release the park lock, you need to momentarily close the switch labelled ‘one key repair’ on the brown wire, pin 4. The motor then runs. After about 15 seconds of inactivity though, the lock re-sets and you need to close the switch again. I’m not sure I understand the practical use of this and I still don’t know what 'one key repair' is supposed to mean but that’s what it does.

I also couldn’t get reverse to work on the grey/white wire, pin 13. Then I found some alternate wiring diagrams with reverse on the brown/white wire on pin 3. This produced reverse but with a curious pulsing action. The motor would switch on and off about once a second.

I then trawled through this thread looking for answers and found Bartosh’s post on page 26 about the park lock. So I got to re-programming, cleared the PC15 port and upped the reverse speed limit to 50%. That did the trick.

I’ve been lurking here for a couple of years and I’d like to thank all the knowledgeable people who contribute and helped me decide to choose the QS3000 for my application. I’ve learnt so much - forums like these are a goldmine for hobby engineers like myself.

My application, BTW, is a 22 foot fibreglass river cruiser built in the 1960’s, replacing a 1 litre petrol engine from the same era. I’m in the UK and the boat is on the non-tidal River Thames. The speed limit is about 8kph so I don’t need huge amounts of power, just range. The petrol engine never gets much above tickover. I’m using Nissan Leaf modules from a 40kwh pack reconfigured to 48v. I’m expecting 20A will let me cruise at the speed limit so I’ve got lots of power in hand for emergencies.

Thanks, Ron
 
How to solve undervoltage error 00000004?
Setup bough very recently. CAN version controller.

Apps I tried:
VOTOL-EM-V3 Software Debugging(CAN)-6.exe
VOTOL-EM-V3 Software Debugging(IO19).exe

App location is: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/09xmbd97caefyi1/AAD3pqtYABODJQZn7O5jWrW1a/Software?dl=0&subfolder_nav_tracking=1

Driver I use is from the same dropbox link.

My setup looks following:
 

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Bartosh said:
Im going to wait for the nucular to compare. Maybe I'll reinstall the APT and test it out in the same location. YMMV

Vids: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m8awnqf87y24se0/AABgacxuuXNjcuHtYXwqmwC6a?dl=0
Click to expand...

I am interested in the differens, especially votol vs nucular :)
 
j bjork said:
Bartosh said:
Im going to wait for the nucular to compare. Maybe I'll reinstall the APT and test it out in the same location. YMMV

Vids: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/m8awnqf87y24se0/AABgacxuuXNjcuHtYXwqmwC6a?dl=0
Click to expand...

I am interested in the differens, especially votol vs nucular :)
Click to expand...

I'm not ready with the results quite yet. No overspin cutouts on the nuc that's for sure.
 
larsb said:
minde28383 said:
How to solve undervoltage error 00000004?
Setup bough very recently. CAN version controller.
Click to expand...

You seem to be in Park mode, locked controller. See earlier posts for fix.
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I will look into it. Will read through posts.
 
Hi folks, sorry for not being here for a while, that was taft time. I've got stuck with my new alu-build and tried to make it before our local race but without success, however now I'm back =)
Hope in few days I'll have some news regarding Votol EM-200, and now just take a look on this pic:

IMG_20200221_175911.jpg

btw, it seems we don't need separate thread for EM200, they are pretty same
 
Hi All,

I have watched this post for quite some time, it has been really helpful and has enabled me to interpret the manual better for sure!

I have run into a couple of problems. Mostly of my own doing, which I am hoping someone on here has either experienced or has a better grasp of this than me.

Firstly the hardware.

Controller: Votol EM150SP with Can
Motor: QS 3KW Mid Drive older style without the two flanged mounts
Throttle: SiaEcosys 0-5v
Battery: 72v 20ah on Anderson connections with BMS (used for testing)

When originally setting this up, using the factory settings all was well. The bike was doing all of the things i'd have expected it to do. The only issue I found was that it really wasn't pulling as well as i'd expected.

After reading through these forums I found the settings that I felt was best for my setup and changed them on the controller. !HOWEVER! I did not take a backup of the original settings. I didn't feel it was necessary at the time because the only thing I changed was the busbas current and flux weakening values.

The problem is that when updating the settings it seemed to knock out a bunch of other settings that I had. The throttle voltage settings changed to some randomly low numbers I think they were 0.2 in each area and the hall shift angle moved to 0. I know it wasn't zero but I can't remember now if it was 60 or 120. The specs say 120 but the motor does not sound happy at 120.

I then tried to test the setup with my attached settings (to the best of my memory and having read through the manual to ensure parameters are correct) but the bike will not move forward in low mid or high modes. It will ONLY turn the wheel in 'S' mode. In the other modes you can hear the motor want to start but it just won't.

Please if anyone can provide advice I would very much appreciate it.

Thanks,

Capture displau.PNGCapture page 1.PNGCapture page 2.PNGCapture page 3.PNGCapture ports.PNG
 
Hey. Also happened to me several times, the sw is buggy. For starters try to set rate of rise and decline to a non zero value (-; 255 suggested. Yes, it matters if you have SP CAN version. BTW activate the sport mode.
 
Hi bartosh, thanks for the response. I thought those settings were reserved for tricycles only? I will change that when back at the bike and report.

Sport mode is enabled on a button, it actually works in sport mode for some bizarre reason but isn’t happy. At high load it errors with undervoltage which is also bizarre because the voltage never drops below 75. When it errors it drops power for a few seconds and then returns (still only with sport mode activated)
 
bikerestorers said:
I thought those settings were reserved for tricycles only?
Click to expand...

Yeah, the manual is wrong.

It's just a current rise speed (on accel and decel). Change it to 10 and see what happens when you open/close the throttle. I assumed it was a 1-byte val [trial&err iirc], so 255 is max. There's no boundary checking, so you can break your config with an overflow.

About the sport mode errors, how do you know it never gets below 75V? You tested it under load? I'd have a look at the batt/bms 1st.
 
Ok makes sense. When I changed the rise and decline it seemed to “fix” the sport issue so not too worried. It still doesn’t feel as though it has the torque profile I’d have expected. I don’t want to do it but I’ve seen people pulling a wheelie on the 3kw motor on a bike that is similar in profile to mine but there is no way this one will do so. I’ll play again tomorrow and see what can be done.
 
Sorry one last thing. Why would you set the decline to 255 instead of 0? Do we know what the decline setting does?
 
hi all, need advice, Votol EM-200, turning on and seen in software, however shows error and there no voltage between black and red wires on hall connector :( however on throttle connector there is 5.4v, so controller is definitely turned on)) (no Parking enabled)

Screenshot_1.jpg
Screenshot_2.jpg


I'm really pissed off with this =(
 
SilentEnduro said:
no voltage between black and red wires on hall connector :( however on throttle connector there is 5.4v, so controller is definitely turned on))
Click to expand...
first check voltage from red hall wire to any other ground in the system.

if no voltage present, then check continuity from the red hall wire to the board inside the controller; it's probably got a broken connection.

or just tap off the throttle 5v to run the halls.
 
Silentenduro. I’m definitely no expert so may be way off base. My settings on pb3 day sport mode which is enabled on a button in my case. You’ve got yours set to stealavoid which is presumably some kind of immobiliser. Have you set a sport button as always on which may be interfering with hall voltage? Just a thought.
 
amberwolf said:
SilentEnduro said:
no voltage between black and red wires on hall connector :( however on throttle connector there is 5.4v, so controller is definitely turned on))
Click to expand...
first check voltage from red hall wire to any other ground in the system.

if no voltage present, then check continuity from the red hall wire to the board inside the controller; it's probably got a broken connection.

or just tap off the throttle 5v to run the halls.
Click to expand...

Thanks, checked, didn't helped.
the thing is that there is strange voltage on hall connector, between black-yellow - 0.7v, black-green - 4v, black-blur - 4.6v :shock:
 
bikerestorers said:
Silentenduro. I’m definitely no expert so may be way off base. My settings on pb3 day sport mode which is enabled on a button in my case. You’ve got yours set to stealavoid which is presumably some kind of immobiliser. Have you set a sport button as always on which may be interfering with hall voltage? Just a thought.
Click to expand...

good point, but this is stock config)))
Upd. Checked, not helping.

BTW, do we have all meaning of that PD PB PA, OI SW (switch?) LA, F U D etc???
 
SilentEnduro said:
hi all, need advice, Votol EM-200, turning on and seen in software, however shows error and there no voltage between black and red wires on hall connector :( however on throttle connector there is 5.4v, so controller is definitely turned on)) (no Parking enabled

I'm really pissed off with this =(
Click to expand...

You probably did it, but https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=93627&start=475#p1530297
 
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