Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

[IronMan]

they do explain the facts but only to manufacturers, and so they deliever good config and firmware files to them (TailG, AVA, BLS, Bryderk) in the end its them who buys the most.. so poor devils lile us dont really get too much attention..

 

[IronMan]

Hey guys,
This is my first post on this forum ever.
I want to use Votol with my homemade motor.The motor is made from a car generator. Installed magnets, Hall sensors with an external rotor. New winding. With a simple controller, the motor works fine. At 80 volts 5500 rpm, current 4.5 amps. But when I connect to Votol, then the stable rotation of the motor is only up to 4200 rpm. In controller settings the parameter "Flux weaking"
set 0. "Hall shift Angle" selected for my motor correctly.
What parameters need to be adjusted to keep the motor stable at high speed?
Or, what parameter in the settings will allow you to limit the maximum motor rotation speed, for example, to 4200 rpm? That's enough for me too.
1fshp89.jpeg

you need to state what votol do u have and show 1-3 pages of software config

 

[HrKlev]

So, its my first post but Ive been reading ALL of this thread... first and most important I must say that new 4th generation Votol EM-50/100/150/200/250/300 has NEW firmware (.bin) that behaves differently, in older votol (still in stock) the values in flux and % slots were put the same and was about double voltaje settings, BUT in these 4t gen boards only left side means what you think it means, right side is for other adjustments like jitter (timing of frequency, used to adjust the motor: when you hit it too low the motor spins suddenly, if you go to far the motor vibrates half throttle, the adjust range is 100-1200 and its usually right around 300n you notice the motor starts spinning real smooth and slow, with no fluctuation) this jitter is the second or right slot box of sport mode flux weakening, if u leave it at 0 motor wont start..
And so, many things changed and the problem isnt defective controller or bugy software.. the problem is that these people designing this hard stuff are real CHINESE people, and the info is lost along the way.. even inside Votol company..
I will do a real manual for this sh*t and ensure we all know what every part of this software does.. I even know how to use the calibration section of software and I must say EVERYTHING in this software works and works fine, and its hi-tech also..
I do have the new firmware update (bin file) at least one of it, and I would like to have the older one or a newer one, so.. hi to all of you, and replay so i know this thread isnt dead, any questions to me I'll answer no problem.. salute

A proper manual would be awesome! I just gave up on trying to figure out the settings for my controller, and I'm now running the settings I got from customer support, but I have no idea what they do and f they could have been better. I wired the controller to be constant in sport mode put 250A into the sport mode current, and set "HDC lowrst speed" to 4500rpm, to limit the rpm into my gearbox. Then i am using a Cycle Analyst to take care of current limiting and throttle ramping, etc. I have attached the settings I received from customer support. Does this look OK for a EM150SP with QS138 motor runing 18s? Are the settings I have circled in green the settings that does completely different things than the manual states?

One other thin I noticed when I tried to use the three-speed settings to limit rpm, it seems like it also limits current with the same amount as speed. Dont think it does that on my older EM150SP controller.

An explanation of how you actually set up the ports would have been awesome too. The manual was not easy to understand...

 

[IronMan]

So, its my first post but Ive been reading ALL of this thread... first and most important I must say that new 4th generation Votol EM-50/100/150/200/250/300 has NEW firmware (.bin) that behaves differently, in older votol (still in stock) the values in flux and % slots were put the same and was about double voltaje settings, BUT in these 4t gen boards only left side means what you think it means, right side is for other adjustments like jitter (timing of frequency, used to adjust the motor: when you hit it too low the motor spins suddenly, if you go to far the motor vibrates half throttle, the adjust range is 100-1200 and its usually right around 300n you notice the motor starts spinning real smooth and slow, with no fluctuation) this jitter is the second or right slot box of sport mode flux weakening, if u leave it at 0 motor wont start..
And so, many things changed and the problem isnt defective controller or bugy software.. the problem is that these people designing this hard stuff are real CHINESE people, and the info is lost along the way.. even inside Votol company..
I will do a real manual for this sh*t and ensure we all know what every part of this software does.. I even know how to use the calibration section of software and I must say EVERYTHING in this software works and works fine, and its hi-tech also..
I do have the new firmware update (bin file) at least one of it, and I would like to have the older one or a newer one, so.. hi to all of you, and replay so i know this thread isnt dead, any questions to me I'll answer no problem.. salute

A proper manual would be awesome! I just gave up on trying to figure out the settings for my controller, and I'm now running the settings I got from customer support, but I have no idea what they do and f they could have been better. I wired the controller to be constant in sport mode put 250A into the sport mode current, and set "HDC lowrst speed" to 4500rpm, to limit the rpm into my gearbox. Then i am using a Cycle Analyst to take care of current limiting and throttle ramping, etc. I have attached the settings I received from customer support. Does this look OK for a EM150SP with QS138 motor runing 18s? Are the settings I have circled in green the settings that does completely different things than the manual states?

One other thin I noticed when I tried to use the three-speed settings to limit rpm, it seems like it also limits current with the same amount as speed. Dont think it does that on my older EM150SP controller.

An explanation of how you actually set up the ports would have been awesome too. The manual was not easy to understand...

Before referring to ports (which is easy) I'll say your config is correct and its at top parameters, the jitter is at maximum and so the other values of calibration, you shouldnt touch them if the motor is spinning smoothly because they are meant only for phase sine wave timing (flux weakening RIGHT boxes in sport, mid and high), even so the mid:0 (its perfect this way), high:6000 (a little high I prefer 5200 in my motor) BUT sport:1200 is at top and a little high, Im surprised the motor doesnt vibrates weirdly at some specific RPM...
The % right boxes you can take up to play with maximum RPM per gear, so if you put 100% in mid (right box I repeat) mid and high should reach its maximum RPM offload, if you let it at 50% and put the high right box at 100% then you will get only maximum RPM at high, I would recommend leaving it low 0-10, mid 50-60, high 10-20, as in this range you will find some nice on the road performance..
Whats the problem with ports? I will tell you in advance that if you want to use a button that doesnt stay grounded but only while you press it, then ypu sould mark the SW box

 

[HrKlev]

Before referring to ports (which is easy) I'll say your config is correct and its at top parameters, the jitter is at maximum and so the other values of calibration, you shouldnt touch them if the motor is spinning smoothly because they are meant only for phase sine wave timing (flux weakening RIGHT boxes in sport, mid and high), even so the mid:0 (its perfect this way), high:6000 (a little high I prefer 5200 in my motor) BUT sport:1200 is at top and a little high, Im surprised the motor doesnt vibrates weirdly at some specific RPM...
The % right boxes you can take up to play with maximum RPM per gear, so if you put 100% in mid (right box I repeat) mid and high should reach its maximum RPM offload, if you let it at 50% and put the high right box at 100% then you will get only maximum RPM at high, I would recommend leaving it low 0-10, mid 50-60, high 10-20, as in this range you will find some nice on the road performance..
Whats the problem with ports? I will tell you in advance that if you want to use a button that doesnt stay grounded but only while you press it, then ypu sould mark the SW box

Hmm.... Sorry, there's so many boxes its a little hard to follow you 100%. I just made a sketch with some numbers, we can refer to, I think that would be much easier;



So, are these assumptions correct?
1 - Phase sine wave timing - dont touch
2 - Jitter, counts for every mode. Or is it flux weakening for sport mode?
3 - Not sure, but it is not for dual voltage three-speed mode like in the previous version?
4 - % of max speed. You said 10-20 for high speed - was that a typo for 100-120?
5 - Phase sine wave timing - dont touch
6 - Flux weakening mid and high mode

I have a couple of questions for the port settings, but I made it work after trial and error. I think page 2 is the most chaotic part for now, so I would appreciate it if you could take the time to fill in what I have misunderstood

 

[smotors]

HI !
I cannot get the motor to run smoothly at high RPM. There is a knock and then a stop. It looks like a sync failure. I think so. Here is my controller settings. While testing without weakening the field. Who can help me?
https://youtu.be/j35A8WuI-ME

 

[IronMan]

Before referring to ports (which is easy) I'll say your config is correct and its at top parameters, the jitter is at maximum and so the other values of calibration, you shouldnt touch them if the motor is spinning smoothly because they are meant only for phase sine wave timing (flux weakening RIGHT boxes in sport, mid and high), even so the mid:0 (its perfect this way), high:6000 (a little high I prefer 5200 in my motor) BUT sport:1200 is at top and a little high, Im surprised the motor doesnt vibrates weirdly at some specific RPM...
The % right boxes you can take up to play with maximum RPM per gear, so if you put 100% in mid (right box I repeat) mid and high should reach its maximum RPM offload, if you let it at 50% and put the high right box at 100% then you will get only maximum RPM at high, I would recommend leaving it low 0-10, mid 50-60, high 10-20, as in this range you will find some nice on the road performance..
Whats the problem with ports? I will tell you in advance that if you want to use a button that doesnt stay grounded but only while you press it, then ypu sould mark the SW box

Hmm.... Sorry, there's so many boxes its a little hard to follow you 100%. I just made a sketch with some numbers, we can refer to, I think that would be much easier;

Inkedpage2.jpg

So, are these assumptions correct?
1 - Phase sine wave timing - dont touch
2 - Jitter, counts for every mode. Or is it flux weakening for sport mode?
3 - Not sure, but it is not for dual voltage three-speed mode like in the previous version?
4 - % of max speed. You said 10-20 for high speed - was that a typo for 100-120?
5 - Phase sine wave timing - dont touch
6 - Flux weakening mid and high mode

I have a couple of questions for the port settings, but I made it work after trial and error. I think page 2 is the most chaotic part for now, so I would appreciate it if you could take the time to fill in what I have misunderstood

You got it wrong, left side is normal and right side is calibration..
1 and 5: flux weakening
2 and 6: motor jitter and calibration
3: normal gear % system
4: limits speed somehow, not sure if by current or RPM, but with some values you get full RPM in any speed (offload)

 

[IronMan]

HI !
I cannot get the motor to run smoothly at high RPM. There is a knock and then a stop. It looks like a sync failure. I think so. Here is my controller settings. While testing without weakening the field. Who can help me?
https://youtu.be/j35A8WuI-ME

1.jpg
2.jpg
3.jpg
4.jpg

These values CANT be 0, because them are NOT flux weakening BUT jitter (timing) calibration..
You should put 200-500 in the "flux weakening" right box in SPORT MODE, and 5000-6000 in "flux weakening" right box HIGH SPEED, if it continues with issues you should put a HIGHER value in calibration section (right side of software) in the FLUX CAL.
Later I will show how to activate the calibration mode and check the motor timing in display screen, if the value from Qcurrent is not in the range 200-300 at high RPM then it can behave the way its behaving in your case, check FIRST the jitter values i mention above

 

[smotors]

Thank You. I will try to make the settings according to your recommendations. I would be grateful if you could show me how to activate the calibration mode and check the motor timing on the display screen.
I've got one more question. I think I made some wrong port settings, because the motor can only work when the controller is connected to my computer ... If the connection is disconnected, the motor cannot be started. What could be the problem?

 

[j bjork]

Thank You. I will try to make the settings according to your recommendations. I would be grateful if you could show me how to activate the calibration mode and check the motor timing on the display screen.

If you dont wan to wait you can look for it in the thread.
It is already posted, I think it is in the first half somewhere.

 

[IronMan]

I have an electric vehicle workshop and a lot of work, sorry that I havent been able to do the manual and the calibration tuto, change the keyboard to english US, open votol debug sw, put cursor at error count box and delet the 0, then hold shift, and press while shift pressed the button '~' twice, that unlocks calibration, go to display screen and press twice the button switch on calibration section, the Q# current stat shown on the middle should be 100-200 when motor spinning full RPM, if not so you can adjust de flix cal. value on calibration section of software, till it is about 200 showing there.. there are other params adjustable but im really short on time be patient please, salute

 

[IronMan]

be careful with ports, or safe boot option or you can leave the controller blocked at parking mode or brake level high.. also calibraring throttle protection range

 

[smotors]

Thank You. I will do it according to your recommendations.
If my result is bad, I will wait for your detailed instructions.
Question about port settings. What parameters absolutely cannot be set so as not to block the controller? I'm nervous ...


...added
I have turned on the calibration menu. But when I press the key that I indicated in the picture, nothing happens. I need your help.

 

[IronMan]

Thank You. I will do it according to your recommendations.
If my result is bad, I will wait for your detailed instructions.
Question about port settings. What parameters absolutely cannot be set so as not to block the controller? I'm nervous ...


...added
I have turned on the calibration menu. But when I press the key that I indicated in the picture, nothing happens. I need your help.
6.jpg

You need to press remote, then being on display screen move throtle slider, while wheel spinning then chek and adjust values bye changing switch display and hitting little upward and downward arrows at curr cal and vol cal and weak flux cal..

 

[smotors]

OK. Please tell me what parameter should I control for stable operation of the motor at high rotation speed? You said earlier that the value should be in the range 100-200 ...

what does the button mean " CLR DTC" ?

 

[IronMan]

OK. Please tell me what parameter should I control for stable operation of the motor at high rotation speed? You said earlier that the value should be in the range 100-200 ...

what does the button mean " CLR DTC" ?

in calibration section you should press the 'switch' box twice and you notice the display screen changing, in this third screen there be 3 params RPM, Q#, D#, with chineese words, it wont matter, be aware of second number, the one in the middle, it should be 200-300 at top RPM, also if you notice weird number and amps draw in display at motor stopped use the reset button, till values hit 0 at 0 RPM.. DTC is direct torque control I guess, because when clearing it the throttle behaves odd, dont touch it, when you finish calibrating use button calibrate and then save param (in each screen of software)
-vol cal: use multimeter to messure batery voltaje and make sure the display match it (usually in the 1120-1140 range)
-cur cal: use amperimeter to messure controller draw and make it match (usually 50-120) deppending on shunt resistors
-flux weak cal: move value till Q# in 3rd screen display be at 200 optimum at full RPM (usually 5-120) but depends on the motor

 

[smotors]

Thanks for the information I really need. I will do experiments on Friday.

 

[Paulflieg]

That would be a programmable shunt mode ..... Very interesting

 

[Tom on 101]

Hey Everyone, I notice that my VOTOL 150 is being seen by the software as an EM100. I have set this to the 150 setting but every time I connect the software sees the 100 preset. I've tried saving the file, loading it but the it always returns to 100 setting, what gives, is there a remedy?

Also once connected to the controller and setting up a motor the motor ran in reverse for a second, but then stopped completely, I can't run it now, no faults are showing in the software and my setting seem fine, got good connection but no throttle or remote throttle, any ideas for this?

Thank you to the people on this thread, its good info for us :thumb:

 

[IronMan]

Hey Everyone, I notice that my VOTOL 150 is being seen by the software as an EM100. I have set this to the 150 setting but every time I connect the software sees the 100 preset. I've tried saving the file, loading it but the it always returns to 100 setting, what gives, is there a remedy?

Also once connected to the controller and setting up a motor the motor ran in reverse for a second, but then stopped completely, I can't run it now, no faults are showing in the software and my setting seem fine, got good connection but no throttle or remote throttle, any ideas for this?

Thank you to the people on this thread, its good info for us :thumb:

phase angle should be -60 for hub almost always, nonetheless check diferent values there and see.. if it doesnt run in any angle from -180 to 180.. then change phase and hall wiring, there are 36 combinations...
You need firmware .bin for em150, if you get it, please post it here.. I only have the .bin for em100

 

[Tom on 101]

So, its my first post but Ive been reading ALL of this thread... first and most important I must say that new 4th generation Votol EM-50/100/150/200/250/300 has NEW firmware (.bin) that behaves differently, in older votol (still in stock) the values in flux and % slots were put the same and was about double voltaje settings, BUT in these 4t gen boards only left side means what you think it means, right side is for other adjustments like jitter (timing of frequency, used to adjust the motor: when you hit it too low the motor spins suddenly, if you go to far the motor vibrates half throttle, the adjust range is 100-1200 and its usually right around 300n you notice the motor starts spinning real smooth and slow, with no fluctuation) this jitter is the second or right slot box of sport mode flux weakening, if u leave it at 0 motor wont start..
And so, many things changed and the problem isnt defective controller or bugy software.. the problem is that these people designing this hard stuff are real CHINESE people, and the info is lost along the way.. even inside Votol company..
I will do a real manual for this sh*t and ensure we all know what every part of this software does.. I even know how to use the calibration section of software and I must say EVERYTHING in this software works and works fine, and its hi-tech also..
I do have the new firmware update (bin file) at least one of it, and I would like to have the older one or a newer one, so.. hi to all of you, and replay so i know this thread isnt dead, any questions to me I'll answer no problem.. salute

I have a 150 that is reverting after loading the prams and it drives me crazy. Is there a way to find out if my firmware could be the issue or how to go about updating my firmware? Thanks for keeping the thread alive.

 

[Tom on 101]

Hey Everyone, I notice that my VOTOL 150 is being seen by the software as an EM100. I have set this to the 150 setting but every time I connect the software sees the 100 preset. I've tried saving the file, loading it but the it always returns to 100 setting, what gives, is there a remedy?

Also once connected to the controller and setting up a motor the motor ran in reverse for a second, but then stopped completely, I can't run it now, no faults are showing in the software and my setting seem fine, got good connection but no throttle or remote throttle, any ideas for this?

Thank you to the people on this thread, its good info for us :thumb:

phase angle should be -60 for hub almost always, nonetheless check diferent values there and see.. if it doesnt run in any angle from -180 to 180.. then change phase and hall wiring, there are 36 combinations...
You need firmware .bin for em150, if you get it, please post it here.. I only have the .bin for em100

Ok thank you!

Update: Yup -60 worked and turned the wheel. I had to get the older software to reconnect so its handy to have the 2019 and 2020 version of the EM v3 software. Once I connected and had the old talking to the controller both versions started working, this is very buggy software but it does work and the controller is very powerful. Still big problem though.......

Once the throttle opens up to a point the motor takes off, there's some jitter then I lose throttle command and it just go full on WOT until I hit the breaker!!? Turning the key ignition will not dc the motor and it just keeps going, needless to say this is very dangerous! Any help would be appreciated.Is there a safety for this kind of run-away? Here's the settings

 

[Tom on 101]

I have an electric vehicle workshop and a lot of work, sorry that I havent been able to do the manual and the calibration tuto, change the keyboard to english US, open votol debug sw, put cursor at error count box and delet the 0, then hold shift, and press while shift pressed the button '~' twice, that unlocks calibration, go to display screen and press twice the button switch on calibration section, the Q# current stat shown on the middle should be 100-200 when motor spinning full RPM, if not so you can adjust de flix cal. value on calibration section of software, till it is about 200 showing there.. there are other params adjustable but im really short on time be patient please, salute

I'd be very interested if you had an online workshop for us, it would be worth $$ to see someone with experience work with stuff VOTOL tech.

 

[Nazar susan]

Hey Everyone, I notice that my VOTOL 150 is being seen by the software as an EM100. I have set this to the 150 setting but every time I connect the software sees the 100 preset. I've tried saving the file, loading it but the it always returns to 100 setting, what gives, is there a remedy?

Also once connected to the controller and setting up a motor the motor ran in reverse for a second, but then stopped completely, I can't run it now, no faults are showing in the software and my setting seem fine, got good connection but no throttle or remote throttle, any ideas for this?

Thank you to the people on this thread, its good info for us :thumb:

phase angle should be -60 for hub almost always, nonetheless check diferent values there and see.. if it doesnt run in any angle from -180 to 180.. then change phase and hall wiring, there are 36 combinations...
You need firmware .bin for em150, if you get it, please post it here.. I only have the .bin for em100

could you please sent me .bin for em100..?
To nazarsusan@gmail.com

 

[Tom on 101]

Hey Everyone, I notice that my VOTOL 150 is being seen by the software as an EM100. I have set this to the 150 setting but every time I connect the software sees the 100 preset. I've tried saving the file, loading it but the it always returns to 100 setting, what gives, is there a remedy?

Also once connected to the controller and setting up a motor the motor ran in reverse for a second, but then stopped completely, I can't run it now, no faults are showing in the software and my setting seem fine, got good connection but no throttle or remote throttle, any ideas for this?

Thank you to the people on this thread, its good info for us :thumb:

phase angle should be -60 for hub almost always, nonetheless check diferent values there and see.. if it doesnt run in any angle from -180 to 180.. then change phase and hall wiring, there are 36 combinations...
You need firmware .bin for em150, if you get it, please post it here.. I only have the .bin for em100

could you please sent me .bin for em100..?
To nazarsusan@gmail.com

I would if I had that, I believe I need to update my firmware too.