Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

larsb said:
I have asked questions, no answers. I decided i won’t help as it’s too inefficient. Good luck with it.
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1.What's your motor?
Photo wheel motor is here
2.Have you replaced the Hall sensors? 
No not changed
3.what kind of error is displayed in the program when the controller is turned off? 
Can't say
4.Do you have a temperature sensor in the engine now?
 The temperature sensor was installed in the engine after rewinding. It does not depend on the controller, it is not connected to it and is programmed independently, disconnected at a winding temperature of 110 ° C. 
 
borko444 said:
For longer mileage it definitely lowers the amps.
As I said no more than 110A
150 amps only in sport mode.
What happens now to these controller settings how the engine behaves?


Tell us with these settings how the engine works?
Upload a video clip.
What speed is he developing now, what mileage is there, whether he is working with these settings at all or not.
It would be good to hear the sound when starting the engine on the spot of course.
Click to expand...

When configured as in the photo, the motor smoothly accelerates with good traction but 500-700m, speed 75-80kmh and the temperature sensor turns off the controller due to reaching a temperature of 110 ° C on the windings.
As I understand it, the current is supplied to the phases at the wrong time, when it is necessary to overheat the windings because of this, you need to select the desired motent and lower the phase current.
Please explain in more detail what these values ​​influence and how and where to start:
1- not clear
2- maximum phase current in normal drive mode (when installing 20A, you can drive 2-3 km but the traction is very weak)
3- not clear
4- maximum phase current in sport mode (you need to choose based on paragraph 2)
5- not clear
6- not clear
7- not clear
8- not clear
9- the number of pairs of magnets (total in the wheel 32 magnets, pairs 16)
10 - angle of magnets (at this point the problem of overheating of the windings is covered)
 

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!!!!!Measure the diameter of the motor. It is important!!!!!

1- remains unchanged value should be 1
2- maximum 110A
3- remains unchanged value should be 9960
4- maximum phase current in sports mode the value must be 150A (but to activate it you must have a separate button for sports mode) Do you have one installed?
5- remains unchanged value is good
6- remains unchanged value is good
7- remains unchanged value is good
8- it should not be more than 34 in my opinion put it to be 0
9 -the value remains good
10 -try with (minus)-60 ° but I think for your engine it should be (minus)-120 ° - However, your motor is QS and may be 0° normal. Do this with very little force with the handle, and you can also read about your engine here in the forum to be sure of the angle. It does matter which phase the voltage starts to flow from. See the table below.
11- uncheck it, let it remain blank
12- uncheck it, leave it blank
13- Set a value not greater than 99%. should not be 100%
The factory default setting was 99% for me, I did it for 100%, and after giving the power to the motor, gave it a short circuit and turned off my feeder, I no longer set a value greater than 99%
 

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well i dont have temp wire from motor. It is qs3000 mid drive motor. when i connect to controller there is no controller fault. But
once i change any setting write, then controller fault comes up. Maybe a bug.
I attach screen, can some one confirm if settings are correct for my motor?
Questions are for poke pairs 5?
surface type or v?
hall angle shift 60?
 

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once i change any setting write, then controller fault comes up. Maybe a bug. This is normal. After turning the engine throttle then the error disappears.
What causes the other values to change them?
Do these values come to you as standard or has the controller been on another engine and you are now adjusting it for the qs3000

If your engine is working fine then these settings then there is nothing you can change on this page.
If you are looking for more speed or power, you will need to change other parameters.
 
borko444 said:
!!!!!Measure the diameter of the motor. It is important!!!!!

1- remains unchanged value should be 1
2- maximum 110A
3- remains unchanged value should be 9960
4- maximum phase current in sports mode the value must be 150A (but to activate it you must have a separate button for sports mode) Do you have one installed?
5- remains unchanged value is good
6- remains unchanged value is good
7- remains unchanged value is good
8- it should not be more than 34 in my opinion put it to be 0
9 -the value remains good
10 -try with (minus)-60 ° but I think for your engine it should be (minus)-120 ° - However, your motor is QS and may be 0° normal. Do this with very little force with the handle, and you can also read about your engine here in the forum to be sure of the angle. It does matter which phase the voltage starts to flow from. See the table below.
11- uncheck it, let it remain blank
12- uncheck it, leave it blank
13- Set a value not greater than 99%. should not be 100%
The factory default setting was 99% for me, I did it for 100%, and after giving the power to the motor, gave it a short circuit and turned off my feeder, I no longer set a value greater than 99%
Click to expand...

I set up the program as you said
https://youtu.be/RlwbMy29F2w

but still the motor shuts off when heated, watch the video

https://youtu.be/Getb1y950cg
 
And how does the engine behave?
  I see that you have not changed the angle of the Hall sensors is still 0 degrees. Have you tried it with 60 degrees?


In the previous post, a boy had an engine like yours but the 3000W. It has an angle of 60 degrees, and you have to
 
borko444 said:
And how does the engine behave?
  I see that you have not changed the angle of the Hall sensors is still 0 degrees. Have you tried it with 60 degrees?


In the previous post, a boy had an engine like yours but the 3000W. It has an angle of 60 degrees, and you have to
Click to expand...
I changed to -120, -60, 60 and 120. Nothing changes. watch the video

https://youtu.be/QbXgTY_-VNs
 
Hello friends, someone knows where to download the EM V3 software for the votol because in the published links they are broken :( , thanks, :thumb:
 
It's normal to have no change. The clip shows that the parameter record has failed. It should tell you that the entry has been accepted.
 
borko444 said:
It's normal to have no change. The clip shows that the parameter record has failed. It should tell you that the entry has been accepted.
Click to expand...

I still tried to change the angle of -180, -120, -60, 60, 120 and 180 the wheel rotated in the opposite direction, only 0 was OK.
 
what else can be done? hall sensors are working, I shut down and the motor stopped working, which means they're working.
maybe the temperature sensor I installed doesn't work right, but I'm afraid to turn it off so the engine doesn't burn.
what else can I do?
 
The thing that struck me in one of the videos is that when it becomes a problem it stops reading the speedometer. The engine is moving and it shows 00.
It is supposed to be a thermal sensor that is mounted inside the motor or. How did you connect this circuit board to the motor?

How do you switch engine speeds? You have three speeds plus sport mode. How do you switch them and the videos you shot at what speed the first, second, or third noise is put.

The other one that interests me. Can the engine move slowly for example 40km.
when you turn the throttle very little the engine runs lightly or immediately starts at 100%.
The initial adjustment you made at -120 degrees started gradually, which is fine, but the other settings were not accepted by the program and were not recorded in the controller, so it looks the same to you.
can the engine run smoothly at low throttle or does it start 100% immediately
 

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When doing an engine test, run the display page to see the rpm and load.
Take a video to see how the controller behaves.

during the test, let this page appear as shown below
 

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borko444 said:
The thing that struck me in one of the videos is that when it becomes a problem it stops reading the speedometer. The engine is moving and it shows 00.
It is supposed to be a thermal sensor that is mounted inside the motor or. How did you connect this circuit board to the motor?

How do you switch engine speeds? You have three speeds plus sport mode. How do you switch them and the videos you shot at what speed the first, second, or third noise is put.

The other one that interests me. Can the engine move slowly for example 40km.
when you turn the throttle very little the engine runs lightly or immediately starts at 100%.
The initial adjustment you made at -120 degrees started gradually, which is fine, but the other settings were not accepted by the program and were not recorded in the controller, so it looks the same to you.
can the engine run smoothly at low throttle or does it start 100% immediately
Click to expand...

1) Yes, you are right when the temperature sensor shuts down the engine on the speedometer 00. 2) Yes there is 2 speed d, sports mode and Parking, but on p the motor is not as non-responsive. 3) Yes the motorcycle can drive slow when turning the throttle very little. 4) after the video I once again tried all settings from -180 to 180 and all was kept, but only on 0, the motor worked fine on the other motor rotates the opposite direction
 
Sham you say it works well at 0 degrees, so it remains at 0 degrees.
I want to see what the power consumption is when the motor is running. This will be seen in the display program. You play it and shoot a video to see what amps and other things are.
 
Turning off the overheat protection means that too many amps go to the motor. This can be due to 2 things.
Improperly repaired engine. Incorrect number of windings or connections, which I don't believe, because the bike looks very well repaired from the pictures.
The other thing that bothers me is that there are mosquitoes (several) that are burned and shorted and leakage when not needing and to conflict with the other windings. There is no other logic. The green-green, yellow-yellow and blue-blue may be inverted, but then the engine will buzz, roar.
 I want to see what the current is at full throttle and in place. It should not be more than 2-4 amps. Whatever other settings go wrong should not load the engine as much.
 My opinion is that you probably have a problem with the controller and that is why your engine burned and it would burn again if you did not put a thermal sensor. There are moffets that are short. This is not down to the settings. I will know more when you upload my view of the operation of the motor and the program.
 
borko444 said:
Turning off the overheat protection means that too many amps go to the motor. This can be due to 2 things.
Improperly repaired engine. Incorrect number of windings or connections, which I don't believe, because the bike looks very well repaired from the pictures.
The other thing that bothers me is that there are mosquitoes (several) that are burned and shorted and leakage when not needing and to conflict with the other windings. There is no other logic. The green-green, yellow-yellow and blue-blue may be inverted, but then the engine will buzz, roar.
 I want to see what the current is at full throttle and in place. It should not be more than 2-4 amps. Whatever other settings go wrong should not load the engine as much.
 My opinion is that you probably have a problem with the controller and that is why your engine burned and it would burn again if you did not put a thermal sensor. There are moffets that are short. This is not down to the settings. I will know more when you upload my view of the operation of the motor and the program.
Click to expand...

https://youtu.be/cyiFXTPRtA8
 
surprisingly, after testing the wheel, when stopped after 2 minutes, began to rotate. then I turned the throttle and stopped the wheel

https://youtu.be/8EGQNkLhiH0
 
Are you sure that this $ 3 Chinese scheme where you put it inside the engine is reliable? I do not believe in 10 seconds the engine will raise 110 degrees.
Touching the engine after it stops must be very hot, is that it?
touch it to make sure it is very warm. If it is run over you should not have your hand on the engine
 
borko444 said:
Are you sure that this $ 3 Chinese scheme where you put it inside the engine is reliable? I do not believe in 10 seconds the engine will raise 110 degrees.
Touching the engine after it stops must be very hot, is that it?
touch it to make sure it is very warm. If it is run over you should not have your hand on the engine
Click to expand...

engine is cold
 
Георгий23 said:
borko444 said:
Are you sure that this $ 3 Chinese scheme where you put it inside the engine is reliable? I do not believe in 10 seconds the engine will raise 110 degrees.
Touching the engine after it stops must be very hot, is that it?
touch it to make sure it is very warm. If it is run over you should not have your hand on the engine
Click to expand...

engine is cold
Click to expand...

You think I need to turn off the temperature sensor?
 
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