Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers
- Thread starter Stefanj.
- Start date
I can't figure out one, who gave you this brilliant idea of putting an electromagnetic relay in a magnetic motor? 
now i saw this in your photos. 
There are so many magnetic swirls in this engine that this relay is a wonder if it works properly. In my opinion, this combination of an electromagnetic relay in a flare motor is unwise.
One good solution is this (pictr1) not what you came up with. there is also a better solution (photo2)
Both are $ 3 each but the effect is different.
I'll wait for the test to be sure of the diagnosis.
now i saw this in your photos.
There are so many magnetic swirls in this engine that this relay is a wonder if it works properly. In my opinion, this combination of an electromagnetic relay in a flare motor is unwise.
One good solution is this (pictr1) not what you came up with. there is also a better solution (photo2)
Both are $ 3 each but the effect is different.
I'll wait for the test to be sure of the diagnosis.
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borko444 said:I can't figure out one, who gave you this brilliant idea of putting an electromagnetic relay in a magnetic motor?
now i saw this in your photos.
There are so many magnetic swirls in this engine that this relay is a wonder if it works properly. In my opinion, this combination of an electromagnetic relay in a flare motor is unwise.
One good solution is this (pictr1) not what you came up with. there is also a better solution (photo2)
Both are $ 3 each but the effect is different.
I'll wait for the test to be sure of the diagnosis.
When the engine burned out, the master himself decided to put thermal protection so that the curtain did not burn out.
I will send a link to my tests, it will take time
Very well decided, but to use the above protection or to bring the circuit board out of the engine. Only the sensor to stay inside the engine. He suggests that he could have pulled two more cables with the rest of the engine and put the board under the seat for example.
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The angle remains 0 degrees the best engine works like this.
The second thing is to get the thermal protection board out of the motor but put the sensor in it. And I think that will solve your exclusion problem. Then we'll deal with the other settings
The second thing is to get the thermal protection board out of the motor but put the sensor in it. And I think that will solve your exclusion problem. Then we'll deal with the other settings
I was impressed that the protection only works at high speeds when the magnetic vortices in the engine are highest, but if you maintain a speed of 45-50km I don't think the protection will apply. Try it and it will be interesting if you tell me if the engine shuts off while maintaining a speed of 40-50km
personally, I am 100% convinced that thermal protection will not be activated
personally, I am 100% convinced that thermal protection will not be activated
I have no idea how to turn off the thermal protection with a cold engine.
The other option is to make sure 100% that the circuit board you put in the engine works correctly by removing it from the engine and putting it out. Allow the sensor to be inside to read the temperature. Just remove the circuit board from the engine. Either it doesn't work correctly or it gets interference from the motor and it still doesn't work properly. As I said before, the relay has a coil, and this induction coil reacts in some way, but again I say the motor does not warm up as much, because if it warms above 110 degrees it will take at least 10-15 minutes to cool down and activate the protection again. It happens to you 15 seconds later which is unrealistic to me. Remove the circuit board from the motor.
The other option is to make sure 100% that the circuit board you put in the engine works correctly by removing it from the engine and putting it out. Allow the sensor to be inside to read the temperature. Just remove the circuit board from the engine. Either it doesn't work correctly or it gets interference from the motor and it still doesn't work properly. As I said before, the relay has a coil, and this induction coil reacts in some way, but again I say the motor does not warm up as much, because if it warms above 110 degrees it will take at least 10-15 minutes to cool down and activate the protection again. It happens to you 15 seconds later which is unrealistic to me. Remove the circuit board from the motor.
Did you not count them when you cut the old wires?
This is no longer normal. How will you repair an engine after you don't know how many coils it should have?
Did I measure the thickness of the micrometer wire?
This is also important. The thickness of the conductor is measured without varnish. The cable must be properly cleaned only with copper. If you have not done this the thickness will also be smaller and will heat the motor instantly. Find the old windings and count how many windings there are. You know how many cables form a single cable?
Replace the motor correctly or you will lose both power and speed.
What you did is not right. Start from step to step and do it right.
But once you get it to an electrician, he probably knows what to do with the engine repair
This is no longer normal. How will you repair an engine after you don't know how many coils it should have?
Did I measure the thickness of the micrometer wire?
This is also important. The thickness of the conductor is measured without varnish. The cable must be properly cleaned only with copper. If you have not done this the thickness will also be smaller and will heat the motor instantly. Find the old windings and count how many windings there are. You know how many cables form a single cable?
Replace the motor correctly or you will lose both power and speed.
What you did is not right. Start from step to step and do it right.
But once you get it to an electrician, he probably knows what to do with the engine repair