AGS
1 kW
Have you tried turning the controller off and back on again?
Votol em50-4 problem, no throttle
- Thread starter sanel_net
- Start date
sanel_net
100 mW
AGS
1 kW
You could try changing hall and phase wires on page 3 to see if the motor spins the other way.
sanel_net
100 mW
AGS
1 kW
Maybe one of the port settings changes motor direction.
Number 43?
Note that I’m guessing here. I know as much about your controller as you do. But there doesn’t seem to be a Votol expert around at the moment.
Number 43?
Note that I’m guessing here. I know as much about your controller as you do. But there doesn’t seem to be a Votol expert around at the moment.
sanel_net
100 mW
sanel_net
100 mW
AGS
1 kW
If you post all of the screens then hopefully someone with Votol experience will help you set them up properly.
The thought I have is there are low, medium and high power settings and maybe you have it configured to the low setting.
I think you can set the low speed setting to 100% on page 2 if you don’t have a 3 speed switch.
There is also a 3 speed default gear which you may be able to set to high.
The thought I have is there are low, medium and high power settings and maybe you have it configured to the low setting.
I think you can set the low speed setting to 100% on page 2 if you don’t have a 3 speed switch.
There is also a 3 speed default gear which you may be able to set to high.
Last edited:
Have you check the power output that coming from the throttle?
Usually the hall angle is -120 -60 0 60 120
Have you done the self learning mode for you motor?
And some of your value need to adjust like you KI value is way to high.
sanel_net
100 mW
Yes I have done the self learn. This controller will not work (no throttle) until you finish the self learn process. I did have a problem with the motor going the wrong way, but I have sorted that out too. It is a bit noisy at the start, probably the angle needs to be adjusted to 1-2 degrees. I will post a photos of my settings today, so someone can give me some advice how to get more power (on the bench motor runs 70-80km/h) on the road 45 but it takes minutes to get to that speed (no torque at all).
Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
I know you probably don't want to hear or to do this, but you will have to follow the diagram sent by E-HP in post #6.
It's tedious, it's annoying to do, but at least you will be guaranteed there is no wiring mistake.
Sometimes you think it is plugged the right way because it spins, but it actually isnt. Unfortunately the self learning on the Votol is kinda stupid because it doesn't switch the wiring for you automatically, unlike some other controllers that can do it. It can even finish the autotune without any problem, it will not throw you an error, but the motor won't work or it will have no power, or worse, it will keep accelerating until you cut the current. I had these issues before with mine.
Now on my Votol it cannot complete the autotune by itself (it just does half of the autotune routine), but somehow everything works perfectly and the motor gets plenty of power. Go figure.
So I would start by doing this, making 100% sure that the phase and hall wires are connected the right way by trying all different combinations.
Then, once it is done you can start troubleshooting and fine tune. If you want more starting torque then I suggest you disable the "soft start" function and set the busbar current to 50A instead of 30. Also, set the rate of rise to a more aggressive value, like 250 (the higher it is the more agressive the throttle response will be, I think the max is 255).
Good luck, these controllers are very annoying to work with. But once they work, they are great.
It's tedious, it's annoying to do, but at least you will be guaranteed there is no wiring mistake.
Sometimes you think it is plugged the right way because it spins, but it actually isnt. Unfortunately the self learning on the Votol is kinda stupid because it doesn't switch the wiring for you automatically, unlike some other controllers that can do it. It can even finish the autotune without any problem, it will not throw you an error, but the motor won't work or it will have no power, or worse, it will keep accelerating until you cut the current. I had these issues before with mine.
Now on my Votol it cannot complete the autotune by itself (it just does half of the autotune routine), but somehow everything works perfectly and the motor gets plenty of power. Go figure.
So I would start by doing this, making 100% sure that the phase and hall wires are connected the right way by trying all different combinations.
Then, once it is done you can start troubleshooting and fine tune. If you want more starting torque then I suggest you disable the "soft start" function and set the busbar current to 50A instead of 30. Also, set the rate of rise to a more aggressive value, like 250 (the higher it is the more agressive the throttle response will be, I think the max is 255).
Good luck, these controllers are very annoying to work with. But once they work, they are great.
sanel_net
100 mW
Thanks for the input bro. I think that my angle is offset by a 1-2 degrees because when I add the throttle (under load) the motor wants to go back and forward, like it doesn't know which way to start turning, after you start, than it's fine, and also I can hear hissing noise from the motor as soon as I turn the key to on position (no throttle).
I would
1. Test to make sure you haven’t fried one or two of your hall sensors first, then
2. Manually change the hall/phase wiring orders
Testing BLDC motor's Phase Wiring - Hall Sensors and Wiring. - Electricbike.com Ebike Forum
Testing electrical components of a typical hub motor with a digital multi meter. First take a few minuets and look over the wiring going into the motor for cuts, scrapes, missing insulation and other wiring issues or poor connections that should be resolved first. Smell for...
electricbike.com
Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
No, if you have this kind of behavior it means that it is completely wrong, not just by one or two degrees.
It should not hesitate at all if the phase and hall wires are properly connected. One or two degree should have no noticeable impact, I've gone as far as 12 degree adjustment without the motor behaving weirdly.
Again, please do things as people recommended you before you damage your hardware. No offense, and I mean it in the nicest possible way, but if you ask for advice and then refuse to follow it then why even bother asking
sanel_net
100 mW
I'm not offended at all. I did try to switch all the phase wires yesterday and I found the only way that it works smooth (all other ways motor will not turn at all, just making noise). This what I'm saying now happens only when I sit on the bike and try to drive (on the bench motor starts smooth and run smooth). I'm going on a business trip for 3 days now, when I get back I will try all this all over again. Thx.No, if you have this kind of behavior it means that it is completely wrong, not just by one or two degrees.
It should not hesitate at all if the phase and hall wires are properly connected. One or two degree should have no noticeable impact, I've gone as far as 12 degree adjustment without the motor behaving weirdly.
Again, please do things as people recommended you before you damage your hardware. No offense, and I mean it in the nicest possible way, but if you ask for advice and then refuse to follow it then why even bother asking
sanel_net
100 mW
Ok. I have tried to switch to all combination of phase wires. 3 pf them don't work at all, 2 pf them work but loose power after full throttle and the only one that works good is the one I have started with. That hesitation to run under load, I have tested that too today, it only happens when motor is in some weird spot, just push it 3cm forward or back, and it finds the sweet spot to start. I have also tried programing the bike to get some power. No matter what I did it was always low on power, untill I connected S wire to the ground. Limited Sport mode to 30sec max, but it runs indefinitely. After restart it should not be on sport mode, but it is. 1st, 2nd gear work, 3rd gear does not engage at all. My finding is that wiring is wrong on the controller and the S wire is really 3td gear, otherwise it would turn off after 30 second or upon restart. Conclusion, bike now runs great, pulls great, top speed over 60, will have to check on the motor temperature as I'm pushing 50A to a 1000w motor. Thanks everyone for the input. Let you know if I fry this motor.No, if you have this kind of behavior it means that it is completely wrong, not just by one or two degrees.
It should not hesitate at all if the phase and hall wires are properly connected. One or two degree should have no noticeable impact, I've gone as far as 12 degree adjustment without the motor behaving weirdly.
Again, please do things as people recommended you before you damage your hardware. No offense, and I mean it in the nicest possible way, but if you ask for advice and then refuse to follow it then why even bother asking
It is Throttle hall sensors fault. 1) 5v not available, 2) any one wire or more got cut, 3) Throttle magenet is dislocated or lost power 4)Replace with 49 sensor if sensor break down.
Dui ni shuo de dui
100 kW
Not necessarily. The votol is a weirly coded controller, sometimes the interface will tell you there is a hall sensor error (which means throttle error) even though there isn't. You twist the throttle and then the error automagically disappears and the motor spins.
Go figure.
