Hillhater
100 TW
$100 for the brakes,.. but then you need a fork and frame with the mounts.full-throttle said:
..and hubs to fit the discs..
So a whole new bike really !
I do have a bike with discs already, but see no advantage over rim brakes.
Watch your rim condition
- Thread starter Ricky_nz
- Start date
..and hubs to fit the discs..
So a whole new bike really !
I do have a bike with discs already, but see no advantage over rim brakes.
full-throttle
1 MW
Not trueHillhater said:
viewtopic.php?f=31336
So you did buy "into these scare campaigns"Hillhater said:
:lol: Anyway.. the topic is to watch your rims, not to discuss some conspiracy theory.
full-throttle
1 MW
Hillhater
100 TW
full-throttle said:
8) Ahh, ! but.. you still need a.. "fork and frame with the mounts" .. whether you make , buy, borrow, or steal it !
Did you weld the disc adapters onto the hubs as well ?
Not exactly "Buy into" .. it was a trade ! :lol:full-throttle said:So you did buy "into these scare campaigns"Hillhater said:
MadRhino
100 GW
Ride them tires within spec PSI. On the high side if you want them to last and to avoid pinch flats or rim damage; on the low side if you need maximum grip and don't care about rim or tire life.howbeit said:
The best tire construction does reflect in tire PSI spec and weight, for low pressure tires need to be built with a much stronger casing. So a tire that is spec 15 to 30 PSI will be heavier, built with 2 ply casing and thicker gum, in comparison with a lighter tire that will have to be spec at a much higher PSI. To optimize performance on a given surface for a specific riding style, one may want to ride a tire out of its spec PSI range (up or down), knowing that will significantly affect tire wear and resistance.
NeilP
1 GW
MAGICPIE3FOCUSPOWER
10 kW
My Mavic EX 325 also 
I've had a couple of these over the years, once with Linear pull brakes, but most recently with disc brake on a rear wheel of our tandem recumbent. I figure the weight of two riders, additional stresses inherent in a tandem, and the 100 PSI tire pressure all contributed to the failure. In both instances the rims were quite new and the failure of the v-brake rim was on a bike with Bionx system using regen maximum setting programmed into the console, and I had been using the brake pads for over a year with no significant wear. I now build my wheels using Sun Rhyno-Lite rims that don't have the indicator groove. Seems every situation where someone wants a long-lasting tough rim we wind up replacing with the Rhyno-Lite.
Hillhater
100 TW
NeilP said:
Worrying ! ..Those Mavics have a good reputation for being a strong rim. ?
looks like stress cracking, probably from poor heat treatment after manufacture.
What tyre, pressure ?
jateureka
10 kW
Most rim brake wheels have a 0.4mm to 0.5mm deep sidewall wear indicator.
This article syas rim wall thickness should be at least 1mm, and shows a method for measureing it using a bent 14 gauge spoke http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-wheel-improvements-20934/
An informative video showing cross section of wheel and what happens as rim brake wears rim. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQK762wtpfM Also shows how to measure wear using a straight edge, which should not exceed 0.5mm.
This article syas rim wall thickness should be at least 1mm, and shows a method for measureing it using a bent 14 gauge spoke http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/workshop-wheel-improvements-20934/
An informative video showing cross section of wheel and what happens as rim brake wears rim. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bQK762wtpfM Also shows how to measure wear using a straight edge, which should not exceed 0.5mm.
heavymetalthunder
100 W
- Joined
- Oct 7, 2013
- Messages
- 185
I put well over 1000 miles on my rims and they were starting to show some wear. Tire pressure 65 PSI on Michelin City. My bike is kinda heavy and and so am I, also I ride in higher speed traffic. What killed my front rim was a small but deep pot hole. Got it out of round. I installed some old style steel rims from an old mountain bike that had many years of use, but still looked good. Put on over 1000 miles and they show no wear at all. Problem is they are at least a pound heavier, lacing was bit of a problem, and are tougher to get calibrated. I would consider using steel rims on cargo bikes and heavy handed rides who brake a lot.
NeilP
1 GW
Hillhater said:
Schwable Crazy Bob... Wide ones, not sure if that model is all one size? But 2.2 ? Something like that.
Probably too wide for the rim
Pressure... Maybe too high? 40-50 psi?
Disk brakes, so no rim wear
Miles... Oh can't remember, but could have been 4000 or so. Bike done almost 9000.
1500 or so on 1st rim, that was second rim. Prob done 1500 or so on the current (3rd) rim
Not all bikes have them. As a student I changed cities / countries and had to use quite a few second hand bikes. On a mountain-bike it had the marks machined and precisely the machining thinned the metal, it popped there. It popped on the front in traffic, scary couple of meters stopping from 30kph.alsmith said:
On an '80s racebike I couldn't see any machining. After it popped (@80PSI-ish) it was clear that the wear was so extensive that the machining was invisible, luckily it was in the garage for the night when it happened.
So yeap watch the rim condition. My 2 cents: weight alone doesn't really matter. The quality of the pads is more important and using engine brake on the ebike (if available) is sure to help.
Tires should always match the rim. If you use some wide tires on a small rim and pump it up high, the rim will sooner or later break. High pressure produces lots of force.
The psi written on the tires is not always the pressure you must pump them up. For me this is more a quality index how good the tire is manufactured (plie density etc.).
I have 20" bmx tires with 110psi / 7,5 bar written on. I pump them up to about 3bar and for me this is still too hard / bumpy riding, but i do this for higher efficiency (130kg e-bike and me)
Im very sure if i would pump them up to its rated 110psi, my good double wall rim will soon look like the same as some rims in this thread :lol:
look at this tire/rim combination spreadsheet:
http://tandem-fahren.de/Technik/Reifentips/index.html#ETRTO
The psi written on the tires is not always the pressure you must pump them up. For me this is more a quality index how good the tire is manufactured (plie density etc.).
I have 20" bmx tires with 110psi / 7,5 bar written on. I pump them up to about 3bar and for me this is still too hard / bumpy riding, but i do this for higher efficiency (130kg e-bike and me)
Im very sure if i would pump them up to its rated 110psi, my good double wall rim will soon look like the same as some rims in this thread :lol:
look at this tire/rim combination spreadsheet:
http://tandem-fahren.de/Technik/Reifentips/index.html#ETRTO
Ghost (bike)rider
10 mW
This happened when the original rim on my 1987 Raleigh Ozark was converted to a 3KW ebike........
