What happens if I use a 48v 20ah battery instead of the 48v 14ah original battery of my ebike?
- Thread starter alan1600
- Start date
e-beach
10 MW
First thing is that you will go about 40% farther with your 20ah battery. So lets say that your 14ah battery could get you 25 miles on a charge, your 20ah battery might get you 34 miles on a charge. Something like that.
The one question is if your battery can handle the amp draw of your controller. How many watts is you controller rated for?
The one question is if your battery can handle the amp draw of your controller. How many watts is you controller rated for?
Using a larger capacity battery should be no problem. You can ride until your butt hurts.
AGS
1 kW
You just need to make sure it fits on your bike.
I think both batteries are 18650 Li-Ion packs, 48V. The only difference is the Ah capacity. The original one is 14Ah. I'm now thinking of getting a higher capacity battery, 20Ah, maybe even 30Ah to upgrade my e-bike, because where I live there are many hills.
I hope so. I don't care that my ass hurts. My concern is about controller dysfunction.I don’t know how many watts. On Youtube, I saw someone ask how many amps does the Ariel Rider Rideal controller have? A Youtuber answered: 17A.First thing is that you will go about 40% farther with your 20ah battery. So lets say that your 14ah battery could get you 25 miles on a charge, your 20ah battery might get you 34 miles on a charge. Something like that.
The one question is if your battery can handle the amp draw of your controller. How many watts is you controller rated for?
e-beach
10 MW
How is your wiring capabilities? An inexpensive watt meter will tell you what your maximum amp draw is when starting from a full stop, or maybe going up a steep hill.
Or, if you don't mind spending a little money a Cycle Analyst will give you a lot more info then volt, amp and watt draw
What is the maker and model of your controller?
Or, if you don't mind spending a little money a Cycle Analyst will give you a lot more info then volt, amp and watt draw
What is the maker and model of your controller?
All Ah is is capacity, which makes no difference to the controller, thus no compatibility issues due to an Ah increase.
The only property that really matters to the controller's ability to handle the battery is the voltage, so as long as it is the same voltage range (empty to full)
Other properties like the pack's A (not Ah, completely different) rating matter for whether the battery can handle the controller and your usage, so you should make sure the new pack's A rating is at least as high as the old one.
How is your wiring capabilities? An inexpensive watt meter will tell you what your maximum amp draw is when starting from a full stop, or maybe going up a steep hill.
Or, if you don't mind spending a little money a Cycle Analyst will give you a lot more info then volt, amp and watt draw
What is the maker and model of your controller?
I don't know the maker and model of the controller. see attached picture. You may figure out the manufacturer from my picture of the controller. As the first step, I don't want to upgrade the power of my e-bike (motor). I just want to upgrade the battery capacity (Ah) right now.
I found some information from 2021 Ariel Rider Rideal User Manual and the website:
CONTROLLER: 48V, 750W (17A)
HUB MOTOR: 750W Geared Hub Motor with 5:1 Planetary Reduction
If the original controller is not compatible with the 48V 20Ah battery, I’d like to buy a new one or even make a new controller that fits a bigger capacity battery.
My wiring capabilities are OK. I used to be an electronic engineer several decades ago.
Thank you for letting me know Cycle Analyst. I like this website
Many thanks for letting me know “pack's A rating”. By asking ChatGPT I know that this value describes the maximum current that the battery pack can discharge over a period of time.
Earlier I was thinking about how to choose one of the two brands of 48v 20Ah batteries, and now I think that I know how to choose. Because I found out that one of the brands didn't mention Max. A. So, I just crossed it off the wish list.
I need to gain more technical knowledge before I take money out of my pocket to buy something for my ebike
. Thanks a lot
e-beach
10 MW
Getting more technical knowledge is a good thing and lucky for you, you have an ebike to learn from.
However, "over a period of time" is too general a statement for your purpose. Over a period of time could be anything, one minute, one hour, one day .... etc. However max amps is a useful definition if you know what the maximum draw your controller has.
In other words, your controller needs to match your battery and it's BMS or you risk overheating your battery or causing low voltage cutout problems.
Step 1: find out everything you can about your controller. Try to find the name of the manufacture and the model number of it. Post the info here on ES.
Step 2: do the same for your existing battery. If it is a manufactured e-bike check out the makers web site for info on you specs for that bike.
Another way to get useful info is to do what I suggested earlier, get some sort of meter inline with your battery to gauge how many amps you are drawing under a heavy load now, (starting from a standing start or going up a steep hill are two ways to get that info.)
However, "over a period of time" is too general a statement for your purpose. Over a period of time could be anything, one minute, one hour, one day .... etc. However max amps is a useful definition if you know what the maximum draw your controller has.
In other words, your controller needs to match your battery and it's BMS or you risk overheating your battery or causing low voltage cutout problems.
Step 1: find out everything you can about your controller. Try to find the name of the manufacture and the model number of it. Post the info here on ES.
Step 2: do the same for your existing battery. If it is a manufactured e-bike check out the makers web site for info on you specs for that bike.
Another way to get useful info is to do what I suggested earlier, get some sort of meter inline with your battery to gauge how many amps you are drawing under a heavy load now, (starting from a standing start or going up a steep hill are two ways to get that info.)
e-beach
10 MW
Oh, and I forget to say: Post the link of the battery you are considering so we can check out the specs.
If someone else didn't state this: check if it's a 9-pin battery wire or not. And the female pin inputs on the battery itself. Or whatever battery connector your current bike has (you can probably get an adapter for cheap if it's not the same pin number). Sometimes 'obvious' things like that don't come on some of these Asian-sourced batteries.
I love extended range batteries, not because I've ever used up a full charge on one ride, but because I can get in 3-4 rides (usually 3) on one charge. Which means more rides per life of that battery. With lesser batteries, you need to plan your routes more because the remaining charge is lost significantly faster per ride. And the 48V weight difference for a smaller and larger battery (if Hailong II or III) is pretty small, only like a pound difference. If it's a rear rack one that's a different story. Your new one being 20 Ah makes me think it may be a rear rack one.
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