ridethelightning
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What is best ebike lighting available?
- Thread starter Offroader
- Start date
Lakebod said:
I really depends on your voltage on what is available, if you are between 22 and 60 volt it should work.
Since I run as high as 82 volts I am limited on what I can use, as there are not as many options for the higher voltage.
Something to consider the yinding 900 will draw I believe around 1.5 amps on high, the BT40S, maybe even more, so you will be pushing the voltage converter close to its limits running both of them on high.
I personally use two voltage converters because I can't find any in the 80 volt range to 8 volts. I run a 12 volt and then an 8 volt from that. But I had these for my custom motor cooling modification which runs at 8 volts, so I had the available power there.
These lights do work at 12 volts, but I don't know if they would fail quickly at that higher voltage.
MadRhino
100 GW
I don't use voltage converters anymore on my bikes. I series Eagle Eyes and a headlamp to take the voltage of the battery. You can wire a bypass and add a switch for hi and lo beam. At 82v you can have enough Eagle Eyes to wire circuits for brake light and turn signals. OK, you need to test many to find one led that is fried, but I got fed up with replacing DC-DC converters.
Any issues with the luna cyclops (http://lunacycle.com/extras/lights/luna-cycle-cyclops-led-light/) brightness, beam pattern, durability? Are they the same as similar looking chinese lights (ebay/gearbest, alie x, bangood etc...). Its plug and play for under 72V. If its truly 1k lumen, two of these should be more than enough for anything. They cost approx the same as a yinding 900 or bt40s + a cheap DC DC. Also already comes with screw on handle bar mount. I know bt40s is brighter if you only want to run one light, but two lights seems to be a popular choice.
You really want to get neutral white and not cool white, makes a huge difference in how things look and also in how well you can see things.
Most of all LED bike lights are all cool white, that Luna one is most likely a cool white light.
The nice thing about the Luna light is if it has a DC converter built in that will do up to 72 volts, makes things a lot easier to wire.
900 lumens isn't all that much, the BT40S is 1600 lumens and I wouldn't mind even brighter than that.
If you are in the woods, the more lights you have the more enjoyable night riding is. With my power lights I find riding at night a lot of fun, I've even almost prefer going out on the warm nights now then the hot days, just something new and fun to do.
You just have to deal with large spiders, but luckily the LED lights light them up really well so you can see them easily.
Most of all LED bike lights are all cool white, that Luna one is most likely a cool white light.
The nice thing about the Luna light is if it has a DC converter built in that will do up to 72 volts, makes things a lot easier to wire.
900 lumens isn't all that much, the BT40S is 1600 lumens and I wouldn't mind even brighter than that.
If you are in the woods, the more lights you have the more enjoyable night riding is. With my power lights I find riding at night a lot of fun, I've even almost prefer going out on the warm nights now then the hot days, just something new and fun to do.
You just have to deal with large spiders, but luckily the LED lights light them up really well so you can see them easily.
tomjasz
1 GW
Busch & Müller.
Period.
Period.
MadRhino
100 GW
They have a good reflector design and carefully selected lenses, making a small light source with low power delivering excellent vision.tomjasz said:
tomjasz
1 GW
Lighting the roadway well, and safely, like a civilized road vehicle.MadRhino said:
macribs
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t3sla said:
The M99 Pro is nice with high/low beam. But I don't think those are sold to end user, only OEM's. And that light looks stunning as well with the daylight running lights. The high low settings are not available on the M99, only for the Pro. Dang that Pro looks good.
I ordered two of these from china, what got me hooked was the high and low beam settings. https://www.fasttech.com/product/1480900
6000 Lumen on high each. Hopefully on low settings they will not blind oncoming traffic or pedestrians.
Has anyone ever had open a pair of these lights? Would there be enough space inside to fit angel eyes? I would like to add angel eyes or some other day light running lights inside the light itself.
And will try to bypass the rear switch for a handlebar switch.
Too bad I didn't read this thread before I put in my order, would have saved me fair amount of money.
Lupine, which probably makes the best but most expensive lights, is putting out an ebike light available in November 2016.
This light is a daytime and switches to night time with a sensor. It is also designed not to blind anyone at night.
Worth taking a look to see how the technology is progressing. This light isn't all that bright for nighttime, but it won't blind everyone either. Unless you're riding in the woods alone at night, or on the street with nobody around, you can't really use anything bright anyway.
http://www.lupinenorthamerica.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=529
Another thing is you can't trust any of the lumen measurements for any china lights. A 6000 lumen labeled china light is probably like 500-700 real lumens. You shouldn't be really considering any of those china lights if you can get lights like the bt40s and yinding 900, for relatively low prices. $20-30 dollars more than a cheap china light will get you a much better and brighter light, also will have the option for neutral white
This light is a daytime and switches to night time with a sensor. It is also designed not to blind anyone at night.
Worth taking a look to see how the technology is progressing. This light isn't all that bright for nighttime, but it won't blind everyone either. Unless you're riding in the woods alone at night, or on the street with nobody around, you can't really use anything bright anyway.
http://www.lupinenorthamerica.com/item.asp?cID=0&PID=529
Another thing is you can't trust any of the lumen measurements for any china lights. A 6000 lumen labeled china light is probably like 500-700 real lumens. You shouldn't be really considering any of those china lights if you can get lights like the bt40s and yinding 900, for relatively low prices. $20-30 dollars more than a cheap china light will get you a much better and brighter light, also will have the option for neutral white
tomjasz
1 GW
Nice lights, bu the $285 tag is a bit harsh for a light the meets the same specs as other German made for at least $200 less.
"The beam pattern was especially designed to meet even the strictest German regulations for road-use headlights, "
Busch muller are German spec.
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/search?q=Busch+battery
Thanks for the link and great read!
"The beam pattern was especially designed to meet even the strictest German regulations for road-use headlights, "
Busch muller are German spec.
http://www.bike-discount.de/en/search?q=Busch+battery
Thanks for the link and great read!
I agree, way expensive. But it depends on what your after and the alternatives. But worth looking at just to get an idea of what comes from the manufacter of the best bike lights. They have the best bicycle LED lights, one at 5000 lumens but costs over $1000. Of course best with the lumens / grams ratio.
That said, if $285 would mean a very good light, that shut off and on when I wanted it to, wouldn't blind riders, gave me a decent amount of light at night, it would be worth it then messing around with the cheaper lights. But that is because I try and put quality everything on my bike. Also it goes a long way to have the light come on and off without constantly messing with the light while riding and changing conditions.
Another thing is by buying the more expensive lights you are in a way donating to the research of even better lights. China won't spend on research and development, so it is up to us to fund the research by paying a premium.
just my opinion and a way to justify spending on better stuff.
What I found out through research is that when you make the LED lights more powerful, yet keep the same 80-100 gram package, it gets much more difficult and expensive to make a reliable light. That is why the expense goes up.
That said, if $285 would mean a very good light, that shut off and on when I wanted it to, wouldn't blind riders, gave me a decent amount of light at night, it would be worth it then messing around with the cheaper lights. But that is because I try and put quality everything on my bike. Also it goes a long way to have the light come on and off without constantly messing with the light while riding and changing conditions.
Another thing is by buying the more expensive lights you are in a way donating to the research of even better lights. China won't spend on research and development, so it is up to us to fund the research by paying a premium.
just my opinion and a way to justify spending on better stuff.
What I found out through research is that when you make the LED lights more powerful, yet keep the same 80-100 gram package, it gets much more difficult and expensive to make a reliable light. That is why the expense goes up.
macribs
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I think 60$ a piece is maximum for what I am willing to pay for lights. I know this is gamble with the FandyFire lights, but they are using 7 of the Cree XM-L2 LED's and those are used by others as well. The fact that light comes with hi / low beam setting is perfect for our long winters. If riding on back roads full beam. If riding in traffic low beam. Don't know if the lumen count is more of a marketing jippo but that light uses 7 cree XM-L2 LED's. So I took a chance and put in the order.
If nothing else I got a pair of way too expensive headlights for using at the cabin
If nothing else I got a pair of way too expensive headlights for using at the cabin
macribs, are you riding in the woods at night?
You don't need crazy good lighting, but it is just fun to go into the woods with a lot of light. If you know the trails, you can comfortably drive as fast as you would during the day through the woods.
I'm pushing 2500 real lumens and that is a lot of light, I wouldn't mind doubling it to 5000 lumens. Just something fun about lighting up the entire woods at night.
I've got my eye on this light here to push out 2300 real lumens. The Yinding 900 is 900 lumens and that is bright, this thing must be super bright. This is supposedly best value light for this high of lumens.
https://www.ituolights.com/products/ituo-wiz-xp3-led-mountain-bike-light-head-2200-lumens-neutral-white
You don't need crazy good lighting, but it is just fun to go into the woods with a lot of light. If you know the trails, you can comfortably drive as fast as you would during the day through the woods.
I'm pushing 2500 real lumens and that is a lot of light, I wouldn't mind doubling it to 5000 lumens. Just something fun about lighting up the entire woods at night.
I've got my eye on this light here to push out 2300 real lumens. The Yinding 900 is 900 lumens and that is bright, this thing must be super bright. This is supposedly best value light for this high of lumens.
https://www.ituolights.com/products/ituo-wiz-xp3-led-mountain-bike-light-head-2200-lumens-neutral-white
macribs
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No I won't be doing much riding in the woods after dark. It might happen but then it is an odd occurrence. But we got more then a few country roads around here. Roads that are curvy and bend where there is no street light and a big fat moose can appear at any moment. Here is where the access lightning is needed. The more the merrier. You would not hit a 1.500 lbs moose at 50 mph. Especially in the fall before we get any snow that can reflect the light it tends to get pitch dark on those roads. Black tarmac, trees without leafs, often a little rain falling, and did I mention no roadside lightning. Such situations tend to "eat up all your light".
The idea was to use one light standard with the clear glass lens as that acts like a pencil beam, that throw light far and narrow. And the other light I will try to find a replacement lens to have a wide angle short throw lens on that one. Combined that should give what I was after. Hopefully.
14 Cree LED's does require me to move the button from behind the light housing and wire a button directly on the handlebar so that I can rapidly change from high beam to low beam whenever I meet pedestrians or oncoming traffic.
The idea was to use one light standard with the clear glass lens as that acts like a pencil beam, that throw light far and narrow. And the other light I will try to find a replacement lens to have a wide angle short throw lens on that one. Combined that should give what I was after. Hopefully.
14 Cree LED's does require me to move the button from behind the light housing and wire a button directly on the handlebar so that I can rapidly change from high beam to low beam whenever I meet pedestrians or oncoming traffic.
izeman
1 GW
we got some lycras in our department. they ride bikes that cost some $7.000. they have garmin gps watches, and other gadgets worth several hundreds more. they HAVE to buy the best. and of course they have lupines lights installed on their bikes. that's a statement as wellOffroader said:
ps: and btw: those really ARE great lights. light/weight ratio is amazing. and if they claim 1.000lm, than they light is 1.000lm.
Alan B
100 GW
The difference between 2500 lumens and 5000 lumens is very small, since the eye is a logarithmic detector. Doubling the intensity is a small change (for a large change 4x or even 10x is required). The light pattern becomes more important as the intensity is increased as light hitting in close reflects back over a much shorter path and results in closing down the eye's iris and making the eye less sensitive. But the availability of good patterned lights is reduced at high output levels. Projection type vehicle lighting would likely be the best, and run two or more.
Ultimately slowing down is a better answer anyway, even with a vehicle when unpredictable animals are moving about, or accepting the increased risk as more lighting doesn't really solve it.
Another approach that uses less power is to use night vision goggles, military style. It takes a lot less power to amplify the light from a lower power headlight than it does to run a high power light, and this takes more advantage of natural and low level lighting. Not sure it is practical, but if you've ever used night vision gear it is amazing. This gear isn't cheap but especially for off road use it would be better than thousands of lumens. The best military gear isn't needed since they are going for zero light source whereas you can use a regular headlight as the illumination source but see much farther with extra gain. The light pattern becomes increasingly important to avoid overloading the goggles with close range reflections.
Ultimately slowing down is a better answer anyway, even with a vehicle when unpredictable animals are moving about, or accepting the increased risk as more lighting doesn't really solve it.
Another approach that uses less power is to use night vision goggles, military style. It takes a lot less power to amplify the light from a lower power headlight than it does to run a high power light, and this takes more advantage of natural and low level lighting. Not sure it is practical, but if you've ever used night vision gear it is amazing. This gear isn't cheap but especially for off road use it would be better than thousands of lumens. The best military gear isn't needed since they are going for zero light source whereas you can use a regular headlight as the illumination source but see much farther with extra gain. The light pattern becomes increasingly important to avoid overloading the goggles with close range reflections.
AlanB, I don't know if that works out 100% true about the high diminishing returns of higher lumens. The reason is that for a proper bike setup you are using optics. I would guess that using spot or narrow beams which throw the light further down the trail do not have near the diminishing returns you mentioned of higher lumens. It takes some powerful lights to light up the trail really far away.
With proper optics or the area where you are shining the lights will give you a big noticeable difference going from 2500 to 5000 lumens.
But you are right in that I think I have heard what you said before, so it is worth taking into consideration.
With proper optics or the area where you are shining the lights will give you a big noticeable difference going from 2500 to 5000 lumens.
But you are right in that I think I have heard what you said before, so it is worth taking into consideration.
LockH
1 PW
"the best lights available for an ebike"? Careful. About nothing in "best" `round here. :wink:
One example? Last purchase for me was a motion detector to mount under the bike (trike frame) to give off a loud alarm if the trike is moved at all. So its "light" is actually infrared and not seen by most eyes at all.
One example? Last purchase for me was a motion detector to mount under the bike (trike frame) to give off a loud alarm if the trike is moved at all. So its "light" is actually infrared and not seen by most eyes at all.
It should really be two categories,
best lights for city riding
best lights for offroad / woods riding
Street I would want something that is carefully made not to annoy other riders or pedestrians, but will still offer good lighting when there are no street lights. Like the lupine ebike light.
best lights for city riding
best lights for offroad / woods riding
Street I would want something that is carefully made not to annoy other riders or pedestrians, but will still offer good lighting when there are no street lights. Like the lupine ebike light.
Alan B
100 GW
The eye is a logarithmic detector, like your hearing. 1dB is a barely visible/audible change, 3dB is a modest increase, it looks like "a little more". It doesn't look like twice the power, even though it is. 2500 lumens to 5000 lumens is only a 3dB increase, a doubling of the power. Once you have a lot of anything, you have to add a LOT to make a large change. At least 4X. It is not a linear detection system. That's all I was referring to.
The optics is a whole different question. If you increase the power, you want that power to be delivered only to the faraway beam, not to the near beam. If you increase power to the near beam, the short local reflection path into the eyes closes the iris, defeating the purpose of keeping the eyes sensitive to the dimmer returning faraway beam. So you need to improve optics as power goes up, and shield the beam from nearby objects. This is increasingly difficult to do. Anytime a nearby branch comes into the bright beam core it will blind you and destroy your ability to see far away.
It is not clear that you need to be able to see as far when offroad. The path is cluttered and needs to be inspected more carefully, limiting the practical safe speeds. Of course a lot of people overdrive their lights, but they are not actually safe, they cannot really see the surface hazards and react to them. When they have a safe journey it has a lot of luck involved.
The optics is a whole different question. If you increase the power, you want that power to be delivered only to the faraway beam, not to the near beam. If you increase power to the near beam, the short local reflection path into the eyes closes the iris, defeating the purpose of keeping the eyes sensitive to the dimmer returning faraway beam. So you need to improve optics as power goes up, and shield the beam from nearby objects. This is increasingly difficult to do. Anytime a nearby branch comes into the bright beam core it will blind you and destroy your ability to see far away.
It is not clear that you need to be able to see as far when offroad. The path is cluttered and needs to be inspected more carefully, limiting the practical safe speeds. Of course a lot of people overdrive their lights, but they are not actually safe, they cannot really see the surface hazards and react to them. When they have a safe journey it has a lot of luck involved.
999zip999
100 TW
They have a rechargeable battery opion and charger combo and a combo with taillight can't tell if battery operated or if it needs to double-a or Triple-A batteries
imidacloprid
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Alan B said:
Some additional information about the human eye:
"The human eye can function from very dark to very bright levels of light; its sensing capabilities reach across nine orders of magnitude. This means that the brightest and the darkest light signal that the eye can sense are a factor of roughly 1,000,000,000 apart. However, in any given moment of time, the eye can only sense a contrast ratio of one thousand. What enables the wider reach is that the eye adapts its definition of what is black.
The eye takes approximately 20–30 minutes to fully adapt from bright sunlight to complete darkness and become ten thousand to one million times more sensitive than at full daylight. In this process, the eye's perception of color changes as well (this is called the Purkinje effect). However, it takes approximately five minutes for the eye to adapt to bright sunlight from darkness. This is due to cones obtaining more sensitivity when first entering the dark for the first five minutes but the rods take over after five or more minutes.
Dark adaptation is far quicker and deeper in young people than the elderly."
For off-road riding i use a LED headlamp. The light stays always where i look and if its reflecting from something to me i tilt my head away to not get dazzled.
This looks promising, wide beam, wires directly 9-85V: http://www.banggood.com/DC9-85V-20W-2000lm-Motorcycle-LED-Hung-out-Headlight-With-USB-Charger-Lamp-p-1095321.html
Anyone try this?
Here is a cheap ($3) tail light, up to 80V, can also use as daytime blinker for front:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-80V-Universal-Bright-LED-Strobe-Motorcycle-Headlight-Indicator-Fish-eye-Light-/221878338953
Also looking for recommendations for lights that plug directly to USB output of a bottle battery pack.
There was a thread on one: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62965
I think its this light here.
http://m.tmart.com/XM-L-T6-900lm-3-Mode-5V-Mobile-Power-USB-Bicycle-Headlamp-Black-Silver_p324090.html
Also not sure if USB on a bottle battery pack usually puts out more than 500ma. Any other recommendations, preferably with warmer colour?
Anyone try this?
Here is a cheap ($3) tail light, up to 80V, can also use as daytime blinker for front:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12-80V-Universal-Bright-LED-Strobe-Motorcycle-Headlight-Indicator-Fish-eye-Light-/221878338953
Also looking for recommendations for lights that plug directly to USB output of a bottle battery pack.
There was a thread on one: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62965
I think its this light here.
http://m.tmart.com/XM-L-T6-900lm-3-Mode-5V-Mobile-Power-USB-Bicycle-Headlamp-Black-Silver_p324090.html
Also not sure if USB on a bottle battery pack usually puts out more than 500ma. Any other recommendations, preferably with warmer colour?
