my bike went down on speed and was running rough, battery fine, not tested the rear hub yet, assummed it was the controller, bought one from ebay, advertised as a twelve tube controller,still no luck, may get one of those multitesters next i suppose, any one ha any experience of these 500 watt 12 tube controllers, the on wire is connected and im assuming throttle wire are red- posative,black-neutral,green- return https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334350447791
when everything is new and it still wont go
- Thread starter ijr9005
- Start date
test post <iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/swBDlOk0V6Y" title="YouTube video player" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
so when EVERYTHING has been replaced, and iit still wont go, is it time to cut your losses, send the whole lot off to be recycled and accept that 2000 miles from a kit is pretty good value for money, $195.99 divided by 2000 is 10p a mile [youtube]https://youtu.be/QEFZ-low5Fg[/youtube]
Doesn't sound like a controller issue, they usually just fail; but probably hard to diagnose the original problem now that you've replaced everything, since none of the parts have been proven to work together with your motor. Someone may be able to help if you provide more details about what was happening when it began to run rough. I'm interested in hearing what the resolutions is so will check back after others chime in.
so when EVERYTHING has been replaced, and iit still wont go[/youtube], is it time to cut your losses, send the whole lot off to be recycled and accept that 2000 miles from a kit is pretty good value for money, $195.99 divided by 2000 is 10p a mile [youtube]https://youtu.be/QEFZ-low5Fg[/youtube]
docw009
1 MW
Watched the videos, KInd of enjoyed the B52's on the one, but that's not pertinent, I discovered the other one, more boring, but you spent a lot of time on it.
You're saying the learning is not right. When you connect the learning wires, motor spins like a top with throtttle after powerup. When the learning pair is disconnected, it acts like it's learning, Motor spins briefly on powerup. Yes, that's backwards from my experience with the only controller I owned that had learning.
Could it be that the controller wants to run with those two learning wires joined?
You're saying the learning is not right. When you connect the learning wires, motor spins like a top with throtttle after powerup. When the learning pair is disconnected, it acts like it's learning, Motor spins briefly on powerup. Yes, that's backwards from my experience with the only controller I owned that had learning.
Could it be that the controller wants to run with those two learning wires joined?
ijr9005 said:
Maybe you're assuming the wrong causation. It looks like you may have had some issues at some point with the motor cable going into the axle. If a phase wire and hall sensor wire were shorted, it could easily wipe out the components ahead of it (controller), and cascade from there. The replacement components would suffer the same fate, when hooked up to the motor. I would continuity test between each hall sensor wire and phase wire, while moving the cable around to see if you detect an intermittent short.
docw009
1 MW
I watched your latest video. You have the tester working on your spar motor, and it flashes proper;y. That means your earlier test of the first motor was valid, and you blew out the hall sensors when battery power on the first controller somehow snuck onto the VCC line. Oh crap. That sucks.
So new controller was spinning a fried motor in learning mode? Does it spin the spare motor?
So new controller was spinning a fried motor in learning mode? Does it spin the spare motor?
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