wr250f conversion

Hi Nike,

I didnt decode the speedo output, I decoded the rs232 comms between the laptop and the controller. I believe most of what Ive decoded out of the data stream and how to start the data stream are a few pages back in this thread. You will need to be reasonably good at programming to do it as it involves handling a large input of serial data, splitting it into packets and then splitting said packets into values. All the values are in hex which also needs to be converted into decimal for us fleshy humans to understand.

I dont have time right now, but if its something some people want, I can an arduino library to collect and split the data. You can then do whatever you like with said data.

Doug
You are absolutely right.
I saw your post above on this topic. I sneefferd on the exchange on the RX contact of the controller’s UART bus, and noticed that the bluetooth stick sends an initialization request to the controller, after which the controller begins to send a data stream as you described.
Only my controller use slightly different addresses, for example “AA 91 28 0 3C 0 33 5A 5a 6D 32 0 b4 5f 7F 6E”.

My idea is to intercept the data between the controller and bluetooth stick and use it for my speedometer readings.
From your forum post I understand that you managed to decode this data, but you presented only part of the data there, and you wrote to plan to continue working.
If possible, could you share your table of decoded data.

Nike
 
Ok, understood. I thought Id attached the info. I havent decoded all of the info yet, just the stuff I needed. And yes, the init packet over bluetooth is different. Donno why, I didnt dig that deep. I didnt work out wattage or current. Im probably right and its one of those sets of bytes but im just performing a bad type conversion in my code. One day Ill make it back to the dyno ;).

Doug
 

Attachments

  • decoded rs485 spreadsheet.xlsx
    9.5 KB · Views: 15
  • wr monitoring page.txt
    23 KB · Views: 12
  • write decode.txt
    10.8 KB · Views: 13
Hi,
I've really enjoyed reading your build thread, always admire whats been done with these bikes.
I like the simplicity of the drive straight off the motor, I've got a wr450f I'm seriously thinking of having a go at putting a QS 180 in.
If you were doing it again would you take drive straight off the motor or use a jack shaft? I know in one post you said don't rule out a jack shaft?

I use my bike for checking my livestock and it's quite hilly round here so I do like a bit of oomph save some time going up hill 😀
 
A Jackshaft is nice because it would move the drive sprocket closer to the swingarm pivot, will let you use factory sprockets and have a lot more options for gearing. I use a 11t front and a custom 60t rear and it still hits 130kph. The YZ250f thread has a very nice build with a jackshaft if your looking for ideas.

Doug
 
Thanks, I've read both the threads a few times, and a few others to try a understand the best way to do things.
I do clock around 70 (115ish) fairly regularly, I don't need to but😀

Would you say moving the sprocket position has affected your handling? Not planning on racing it (won't rule it out but by the time kids have grown up a bit me knees will be knackered)

Cheers Geoff
 
Been working lots on my build lately doug and with my 9t front and 52t rear 520 sprocket setup i use for mx it still topped out at 85pmh exactly at 6700 ish rpm.As the power readings are so far off in the Fardriver app i added a external shunt and im pulling 46kw peak and 42kw maintained on long straights on the 10tooth front sprocket setup(y)
 
Ok, understood. I thought Id attached the info. I havent decoded all of the info yet, just the stuff I needed. And yes, the init packet over bluetooth is different. Donno why, I didnt dig that deep. I didnt work out wattage or current. Im probably right and its one of those sets of bytes but im just performing a bad type conversion in my code. One day Ill make it back to the dyno ;).

Doug
Thanks for the great work/start. I am just getting started over hear:
Fardriver controller serial protocol reverse engineering

I have to do it step-by-step as I am a newbee and in-between I have to go back to the basics to get a more holistic understanding.

Anyway, thanks for your start.
Regards
Andreas

Address_00_v1.png
 
A Jackshaft is nice because it would move the drive sprocket closer to the swingarm pivot, will let you use factory sprockets and have a lot more options for gearing. I use a 11t front and a custom 60t rear and it still hits 130kph. The YZ250f thread has a very nice build with a jackshaft if your looking for ideas.

Doug
Correction, I got it to 140kph this morning. Folks, this is a good build. I know because I've been riding it to work all week.
Doug took a stab at it (as we all do in these projects) and got a lot right.
That motor is an impressive thing...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top