Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

After the dimensions of the single stage MitchJ thats the two stage. Is the First stage the same length as the single stage drive is it? Cheers buddy.

KiM
 
Hi Kim,

AussieJester said:
After the dimensions of the single stage MitchJ thats the two stage. Is the First stage the same length as the single stage drive is it? Cheers buddy.

KiM

Both versions (single and dual stage) use the same first stage parts.
 
MitchJi said:
Hi Kim,

AussieJester said:
After the dimensions of the single stage MitchJ thats the two stage. Is the First stage the same length as the single stage drive is it? Cheers buddy.

KiM

Both versions (single and dual stage) use the same first stage parts.

Yes i assumed after looking at them and the fact you posted the drawing they were thanks mate appreciate that, i have adequate room which
was the concern...can now weld the rear half of the frame on today :)

KiM
 
For the other chain.. i kept the broken Axiom chain tensioner from my Norco and the spring is broken inside ( bend that locks it in place so it don't spin free ) however, in reverse it still jams in there and springs..

so i dug thru my mountain of various parts and managed to find the same thread pattern of all things.. on a ceiling electrical box plate !!! i think this came from a chandelier i tore apart a long time ago !! :mrgreen: .. and my mother calls me a pack rat.. ha.
 

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What is the wheel YPedal is that a "off the shelf" item or a wheel of some sorts you have resized
like skate board or roller blade wheel? (the red one i mean ...i just posted an see theres more pics
is this whats you mention is from the Norco?)

KiM
 
Hi Y, sorry if I missed it but I couldn't find details of that orange chain tension roller. Is it an off-the-shelf job or something you made up?
 
HAHA i just asked that too buddy hehee i think it might be off the Norco kit? not sure what this is though Yman says

"i kept the broken Axiom chain tensioner from my Norco"

...i didnt see this page when i first posted wasn't until i hit enter i saw it and he mentions this in above post i belive (if he is infact refering to that particular wheel) You can make them using skateboard wheels or roller blade wheels i've seen, you have a drill i believe Greenhill? bolt through the wheel in the drill spin him up carve into it with something sharp ;)

KiM
 
monrn'in !

The orange one is an item i got with a used cyclone kit i got from a guy in Japan, the black one is the axiom that was on my Norco.. :wink:

That orange one i've seen at my local bike shop, they are common, nice and smooth bearing in it.. and yes, i've also used a skateboard wheel on a cyclone built i did for a local customer.. see details of that one here :

http://www.ypedal.com/Cyclone2.htm
 
randome google search : bicycle chain tensioner orange

http://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/CH409Z16-Dmr%20Sts%20Single-Speed%20Chain%20Tensioner.aspx?SSAID=176195

but my homemade version was alot cheaper ! 8)

edit : quick note on spring loaded vs bolted chain tensioners, if your chainwheels are not perfectly round, the chain goes tight/loose/tight/loose causing problems.... :evil: .. i had to loosen my chainrings to center them up...
 
Rear chain is tensioned and good enough for now..

Next is the wiring.. :D

Q: How critical is it to have the controller to motor wires as short as possible ? I need to extend the wires a few inches to make the controller fit into a convenient place, i have high strand 10g qire and have just plugged in the soldering station.. if this is of highest importance to prevent the controller from blowing up,, someone please chime in !! :lol:
 
Just got back from a 24v road test !!!!!! :D

Fun ! but there are bugs to be worked out :? . cutouts on LVC detection ( 2 beeps ) . i need to dimple the motor shaft and loctite the set screws,

Rather loud ( compared to all hub motors i have used , like.. ALOT louder ..) but not unpleasant like the cyclone 500w i hated so much.. forget stealth when on this bike !! people KNOW it's motorized ! lol....

Need to fab up an ankle guard, this sucker is dangerous !!!! if the ride don't make your heart race, the whipping chains surely will !

I need to get working on a 15 cell PSI.. ( too bad 16 is too much, i already have one done up for the BMX ....but not a big job and easy to do.. )

More, including video tonight or tomorrow !! i promise ! :wink:
 
The bearings will break in a bit. Also be sure that there is proper space between the bearing faces and the sprockets/ pulleys. Mine had a bit of scrub at first, and just a bit of adjusting made it turn much smoother.


If you terminate the 16s pack at 50.4v you would be fine using it, but that is pretty low at 3.15v per cell.
 
Ypedal said:
350w no load ???? can that be right ? at 36v !

Yes, it probably is. My recumbent is 400 watt no-load at 48 volts. However, where RC motors really shine is under load.

Yes, they do whine a bit. That is the only real down side to them. But, you will get used to it in no time.

Lastly, yes, LV cutoff will be a bear if not set right.

Man, at 48 volts that thing will RIP!

Matt
 
It will untill it breaks in. Some people will tell you belts do not break in. But, my belts always get hot untill they have a few hours on them. They also get a bit more efficient when the break in too.

Matt
 
Ypedal said:
GEEEEZZUUUUS !!!!!!!!!!! :shock: :shock: :shock:

HAHAHAA...good to hear you have it running YPedal... Ramp up the volts and lets see some video of you trying to ride it with the front wheel on the ground LoL...

That lexan you have laying about going to be utilised i gather ...chain guard?


Look forward to the visuals!

KiM
 
Ypedal:
You might want to either buy a unicycle for practice, or look into using one of your hub motors, with no torque arm, to keep the bike upright when on one wheel.
 
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