Y-pedal's two stage RC drive..........

[Ypedal]

Got the puller out, off come the chainrings..

 

[Ypedal]

Removed one of the spacers between the chainrings, and Daaaaaaaam it's close !!! and it works ! I've got about 1/16th between the chains !

 

[Ypedal]

So, with a freewheel adapter made for right side drive, i need to make the centre of the freewheel teeth end up 25mm from the foot and this will clear the cranks..

 

[Ypedal]

Using pieces of 3/4" nylon board and aluminum angle, i have a mounting bracket in mind that should work just fine.. The whole bracket will slide up on the frame to tighten the chain and cover a big surface area of the frame to prevent crushing the frame or slipping once tight.. Likely a number of things i'm overlooking and will find out the hard way, but this is part of the puzzle !

I tried every conceivable method to try and mount this thing in front of the rear tire, just not happening with this frame.. i was even going to give up the cranks and go for footpegs with direct chain drive to rear wheel but would have had to mount the motor on top of the rear wheel , no good for weight distribution.. below the downtube is the only way on this frame.

 

[swbluto]

Cool ! .. thx , I downloaded the software direct from the castle site, updated in august aparently, and one thing i found is running the motor on the bench, no load, 1 amp full throttle, all good and cool... if i run very low rpm like 1/4 throttle for 30 seconds or so the motor temps rise quickly, controller stays cool.. at 24v.

Did you notice any rumbling or vibrations when this happened? Low RPM higher motor temp behavior seems to be puzzling if it isn't due to synchronization issues.

Hmmmmm... maybe it has to do with self air-cooling being less effective at low RPMs?

 

[recumpence]

One issue with sensoreless motors like this, you cannot run them for long without any load. The controller gets confused and the timing goes off. That causes motor heat. I think that is how it was explained to me. Anyway, with a load, it will not heat up as much.

Y,

Your parts are in transit. You should have them within the next few days. You have a jackshaft, bearing tube, bearings, and right side FW adaptor coming. The adaptor needs to be inserted backward into the freewheel so the set screw hub comes protruding out the wrench side of the freewheel.

Matt

 

[Ypedal]

Awsome !! thx matt ! 8)

By the time i get the mount done, parts should be here !

How far past the freewheel does it stick out ?

 

[johnrobholmes]

Any PM motor will heat up under no load. At the higher RPMs enough air may move through to cool it.

 

[Ypedal]

Ok, there will be progress today !! Finally !

I got my parts from Matt !! ( THANK YOU 8) !! ) so i can drive the ENO on the right side vs left side . I have changed my mind regarding how this bike will come together a dozen times, as i've pointed out early on this is not written in stone and anything is up for changing if requried ! lol..

Threads sink fast in here. wow.. had to go looking on page 2 !!

Fired up the Keurig coffee machine, on cup no.2, about to make breakfast and it's a perfect sunday morning outside.. i think i should turn off my phone..... :lol:

 

[etard]

Maybe you should turn your computer off too. :wink:

 

[recumpence]

Hey Y,

I just realized you will have to spin the idler clamp around the bearing tube to get the idler on the non-tensioned side of the chain. I originally set it up for left side drive. So, for right side drive, the idler will be under tension. Flip it around and you will be good.

Matt

 

[Ypedal]

Alredy done ! :wink:

I also learned something important while sorting out the mounting position.. don't grab the drive by the belt pulley near the freewheel when the freewheel is installed !! :lol: *types this with one finger on each hand bleeding..

After about 2 hours of flipping this thing right side up, left side down, over and under.. i think i have an action plan that clears the chains and allows the nuts and bolts to fit.. :| .. this is no walk in the park people.. specially for the partially-mechanically-challenged like myself with limited tools and access to materials.. however i will succeed !

 

[recumpence]

Cool!

Hey, for those who want to know, I now have round tube drive clamps available in 1.5 inch and 2 inch ID sizes. Various shims can be made from basic aluminum tubing with various ID and OD combinations.

Machining for these was finished yesterday.

Matt

 

[Ypedal]

Oh man.. if the Tidal Force had round tube i'd be all over that in a heartbeat !!!

Some pictures to explain the drive side freewheel adapter for anyone else doing this .

 

[Ypedal]

The 18t ENO has a blue seal on the back side..

 

[Ypedal]

Thread the set screws in, and insert stub end 1st..

 

[Ypedal]

carefully thread in..

 

[Ypedal]

Voila !

 

[Ypedal]

Set screws show up on the other side..

 

[Ypedal]

line up set screws with flats on shaft.. and crank them down !

 

[Ypedal]

spent most of the day in the garage, Dog loved it !

 

[Ypedal]

Mounted 2 pieces of angle aluminum, one to each side of the foot..

 

[Ypedal]

what i was refering to earlier.. don't grab the thign like this !

Notice the space between the belt and those teeth ?.. well. just enough to wedge a fingernail inbetween !! ( s.o.b that hurts )

 

[Ypedal]

This gives me mounting surface on both sides of the frame.. and withing the cranks.. and " just " ..

 

[MitchJi]

Hi Y,

Hey, for those who want to know, I now have round tube drive clamps available in 1.5 inch and 2 inch ID sizes. Various shims can be made from basic aluminum tubing with various ID and OD combinations.

Matt

Oh man.. if the Tidal Force had round tube i'd be all over that in a heartbeat !!!

I think Matt said the clamps might work (I think he said he wasn't sure) with some sizes of oval tubing. If he thinks it might be possible it's probably worth a shot (all you can lose is the cost of round trip shipping).